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Most homeowners are hesitant to propagate garlic with aerial bulbs for fear of failure (freezing of planting material, getting small bulbs, seeds drying out, etc.). The arrow varieties of garlic gave gardeners an amazing opportunity to save planting material and update the variety by growing the crop with the help of bulbs. In order to insure against the loss of seeds in the conditions of a fierce, snowless winter, many summer residents go to the trick - they plant winter garlic bulbs in early spring, having previously carried out their vernalization in the refrigerator. But first things first.
planting material
First you need to get quality bulbs. On the garden bed with garlic, note several of the largest plants (it is desirable that they be grown from large cloves) and leave arrows on them. For the rest of the seedlings, the arrows are removed (broken out) in order to obtain larger garlic heads. At the very beginning, the arrows are folded into a tight spiral, which straightens out by the end of the growing season. A sign of the need to harvest garlic is the cracking of the covers on the bulbs.
The dug out plants are removed from the garden as a whole (without cutting off either the inflorescences or the bulbs), tied in bunches and hung to dry in a place with good ventilation, for example, in the attic, veranda, under a canopy. The period of complete outflow of plastic substances from the stem and tops into the head and air bulbs, after which they increase in size, is from 3 to 4 weeks. After the leaves have completely dried, the heads with bulbs are carefully separated from the stem, trying not to damage their cases.
Until the end of winter, the seed is stored at room temperature. Bulbs are laid out on a newspaper, wrapped in several layers, saved in an open plastic bag. 4-6 weeks before planting, which is usually carried out in March-April (depending on weather conditions), the bulbs are sorted out, removing dried and defective ones, wrapped again in paper, put in a bag and placed in the refrigerator. This is called the process of vernalization, when the air bulbs are kept for several weeks at a temperature of about + 5 ° C.
This stage is very important, because with the help of such a simple manipulation, biological mechanism culture vegetation. If the seed is not kept in the cold, then plants planted in the spring will not stop growing until the onset of cold weather in late autumn, sometimes they can even shoot arrows. As a result, small unripened onions or sets are obtained, which are of no value either for culinary purposes or as planting material.
Plants grown from bulbs that have passed the vernalization stage stop growing at the end of summer (approximately mid-August), completing the growing season. In this case, a large juicy onion is obtained, up to 3 cm in diameter, called a single-tooth, from which next year a multi-toothed large head of garlic will grow.
Preparing beds for spring sowing bulbs
It is necessary to prepare the bed in the fall, since sowing is carried out in early spring, when the soil is still wet, and high-quality digging with the introduction of the necessary organic matter is simply impossible. Garlic prefers fertile soil, with neutral acidity or slightly alkalized. A place for culture is chosen in a sunny area of \u200b\u200bthe garden, without shading during the day. Lowlands and places of accumulation are unsuitable for garlic melt water because in such conditions the roots of plants rot.
During autumn digging, the site is filled with compost or well-rotted manure, at the rate of a bucket per square meter. meter. Fresh manure of farm animals is never applied for garlic; only it is allowed to be embedded in the soil for previous crops, for example, plants of the pumpkin family. Be sure to enrich the soil with mineral fertilizers, which are suitable for superphosphate - the main source of phosphorus (matchbox / sq. meter) and plant ash - a natural source of potassium and trace elements (liter jar / sq. meter).
Spring sowing bulbs
The day before planting, air bulbs are soaked in an ash solution (1 tablespoon of ash per 0.25 l pure water), changing the solution four times for a new portion. Pop-up bulbs are to be removed.
Sowing is done to a depth of 2.5-3 cm, keeping a distance of about 4 cm between plants. Rows of garlic are spaced 15-20 cm apart. Carefully planted beds are mulched with hay (mulch layer is about 5 cm).
This agricultural technique allows not only to protect garlic from sudden frosts on the ground, but also to preserve valuable moisture in top layer soil, where it is located root system garlic. Mulching leads to a reduction in the frequency of watering, and also reduces the work of the gardener in weeding and loosening the beds.
Harvesting one-tooth
When the leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow and dry out en masse, it is necessary to dig up the crop. If you are late with the harvesting time, you may not find garlic cloves in the ground, as the aerial part will die. Single teeth are dried under a canopy, without cutting off the tops, spread out in one layer on canvas or polyethylene, for three days. Then the plants are tied into bunches and continue to dry in a suspended state in the attic, until the moment of planting before winter. Grown single-toothed - high-quality planting material for sowing in the fall. Next year, large (from 100 to 150 grams, depending on the variety) garlic bulbs will form from them.
Easy work for you on the plot!
Bulbs gardeners call air bulbs of garlic. They do not grow on any variety of garlic. When planting garlic in autumn period bulbs grow at the end of next summer.
If the bulbs are used for reproduction, then when sowing them in the spring in August of the current year, we will get small single-pronged heads, or, as it is also called, sets. Only the following year, a plant with a large air head and inflorescence can be grown from them. Those. Bulb harvest will have to wait two years.
Why use bulbils as planting material?
Firstly, it saves planting material. After all, during the propagation of winter garlic, which shoots with teeth, approximately one seventh of the entire crop is consumed annually. Reproduction by bulbils does not require such similar costs. It is remarkable that in each inflorescence there can be 20-60 bulbs.
Secondly, with the help of air bulbs, new varieties can be easily propagated. Garlic grown from bulbs is more viable and less susceptible to all sorts of diseases and pests.
The first way: the grown sevok is not removed, but left to overwinter in place. Second: spring, bulbs are sown heaps. At the end of summer, the sevok is dug up, and in the fall it is planted to form larger bulbs.
How to harvest seed?
Bulbs are produced from the most productive plants. They are harvested when the film that hides the bulbs in the inflorescence begins to crack in single plants. If you tighten it, the bulbs will simply crumble. Cut inflorescences with an arrow are tied into a sheaf and hung in a room with good ventilation for drying. During this time, our bulbs ripen.
How to store garlic bulbs?
This mode is suitable: until the beginning of the second half of February, we store the bulbs in a dry room at a uniform temperature of + 18-20 ° C, and from the second half of February until the very sowing - at 0 ° C. To do this, the bulbs are first transferred to a cloth bag, and then dropped into the snow.
Dry the inflorescences before planting. warm room and then blow it in the wind. Only the largest bulbs are left, which are capable of producing developed and large garlic. Bulb presentation formed only in the third year of life.
Soil preparation for bulbs
Bulbs are sown very early, as soon as the soil is ready. This is around the end of April - beginning of May. The soil for garlic bulbs has been prepared since autumn. The selected place for the bed is fertilized with humus 5 kg per 1 m 2. Also add superphosphate, potassium chloride in a ratio of 30:20 grams.
lime will help to deoxidize the soil at the rate of 300 grams per 1 m 2. Fertilizers are evenly distributed on the bed, the soil is dug up on a shovel bayonet. The earth should lie down, as it is in clods.
In the spring, we level the soil with a rake. Add a garden fertilizer mixture (100 grams / m 2).
Sowing bulbs
Sowing of bulbs takes place according to the tape scheme. A ribbon is a group of parallel rows of plants. The width of the tape reaches 90 cm. The tape consists of 7 rows with intervals of 15 centimeters. One tape should be at least 30-40 cm apart from the other.
In the spring, we close the bulbs to a depth of 3-4 centimeters, and in the fall - to 4-5 centimeters. We make grooves of the desired depth with a hoe. We spread the bulbs, on the bottom, at a given distance. We sprinkle the grooves with moist earth, compact the soil with a board and sprinkle with peat.
Seeding care
After the emergence of seedlings, we loosen the soil to a depth of 2-4 cm, especially after rains. In dry weather we do watering. Water in hot weather 1 time in 10 days. We do mullein feeding. Top dressing is applied at the rate of 2 liters of solution per 1 m 2. After feeding, wash with water from a watering can.
Collection of garlic sets
the sevok ripens in August, when all the tops of the garlic lie down. It's time for cleaning. We dig the sevok with a shovel. In dry and warm weather, we lay out the sevok directly on the soil; in wet weather - we bring it into a ventilated room and periodically turn it up. When the sevok dries well, we clean the bulbs from the remnants of the leaves.
Everyone is good winter garlic: and early ripening - ripens for pickling vegetables, and fruitful - bulbs and cloves are larger than those of spring. Large teeth are very pleasant to clean, but I don’t really want to plant them. If a spring head can have several dozen cloves, then a winter one can have from 4 to 12. And this means that you will plant a significant part of the crop again, which is completely unprofitable.
However, there is an alternative - winter forms of garlic, as a rule, shoot, i.e. form arrows from which small cloves of garlic grow. They are called air bulbs. They are enclosed in a case, and one plant can have up to 100 bulbs. This is where the real reserve of reproduction lies! If you want to grow, say, 200 heads of garlic, then only 2-3 plants will be needed for planting when propagating with bulbs.
But these are not all the benefits. In addition to saving planting material, it is no less, and perhaps more important, that when sowing bulbs, the seed fund is healed. After all, the causative agents of garlic diseases are in the soil and are transferred when the cloves are planted along with them. Bulbs, on the other hand, do not have contact with the ground and, therefore, are not carriers of infections.
True, there are negative sides. When planting garlic with bulbils, you can get a normal head crop only in the second year, which means that there will be no harvest from a specific unit of area for one year. In addition, not everyone succeeds in experimenting with the propagation of arrowhead garlic with bulbs: someone does not know how to sow correctly; someone tried but failed. In some, the bulbs froze, in others they dried up, in others the bulbs grew, but small. In general, not without problems.
However, grow good garlic from bulbs is not so difficult - just follow a few rules.
1) The first is to grow good bulbs. To do this, it is enough to leave arrows on several plants grown from the largest cloves (in the rest, they break out to increase the size of the heads). The arrows are first coiled. As they grow, they straighten out, and as soon as they finally straighten up, you need to harvest without delay. In this case, both heads of garlic and bulbs are harvested. Plants should be harvested whole, tied in bunches and hung in the attic for 3-4 weeks. During this time, there will be an outflow of plastic substances in the leaves and stem to the bulb and air bulbs, and they will gain weight. After the stem dries, you can separate the heads with bulbs, being careful not to damage the covers.
2) The second is to plant the bulbs correctly. This can be done both in autumn and early spring (in this case, the beds need to be prepared in the fall, because it will not be possible to dig up in mid-April). However, both of these options are flawed. During autumn sowing, some of the bulbs may freeze, some bulge to the surface with frost, and in the spring they have to be deepened again. And for spring sowing, it is not always possible to keep all the bulbs safe and sound - some of them dry up. If you prefer to store the bulbs until spring, then when stored warm for a month and a half before sowing, they should be disassembled and kept at a temperature of 4 ... 5 ° C, for example, in a refrigerator. For what? Thus, the bulbs, as it were, start a spring biological clock. If this is not done, the plants do not "feel" the time, they will remain green and grow until late autumn, and sometimes even shoot. Then you will get medium-sized unripened heads with small teeth, which are of no interest either as a commodity head or as planting material. Plants from chilled bulbs before planting stop growing in early August. In this case, a head is formed from one large round tooth with a diameter of up to 3 cm, the so-called single-tooth. Before planting, the bulbs are soaked for a day, changing the water 3-4 times. Pop-up teeth are removed. Planted to a depth of 2-3 cm, 3-5 cm in a row and 15-20 cm between rows. Plantings must be mulched, for example, with a layer of hay about 5 cm thick. This allows you to keep moisture in the upper, root-inhabited soil layer, then there is no need for frequent watering, weeding and loosening.
3) Third - dig out in time. When the leaves begin to turn yellow, the garlic is dug up - this will be around mid-August. If you are late with harvesting, then the above-ground part of the plants will die off, and it will be difficult to find bulbs in the ground. Garlic is dried for 2-3 days in the sun, spreading thin layer on film and sheltering from dew at night. Then tied in bundles and dried in the attic. Single teeth grown in this way are a complete material for autumn planting. The following year, large heads of garlic are obtained from them.
How to store garlic
It is very difficult to keep garlic in an apartment - losses can be large. For example, I use this method: after completely drying the garlic in the apartment with the batteries turned on, around November, I put the heads into three-liter glass jars. Having filled them by two thirds, I add a bag of salt to the jars and close them with plastic lids. After that, I store them in the underground at 1 ... 3 ° C, taking out the garlic as needed.
Of course, this option is not suitable for all gardeners. Not everyone has underfloor storage. But the literature provides many other ways to preserve garlic in the winter. Let's consider some of them.
1) In late autumn, pack the heads in plastic bags, tie them up, wrap them in several layers of newspaper and bury them in the area. When cold weather sets in, cover this place with tomato or some other tops. True, it will be possible to use such garlic only in the spring, when the snow melts and the heads can be dug out.
2) Pour a layer of salt into an ordinary parcel box with holes in the walls, lay a row of heads, which is also covered with salt on top. Then again put a row of heads, and pour salt again - and so on to the very top of the box. The authors of the method claim that garlic in such conditions will remain juicy until spring.
3) If you store garlic in the kitchen, where the temperature is 18 ... 25 ° C, then in no case pack it in plastic bags: the heads suffocate, rot and rot in them. It is best, as experience has shown, to store garlic in bags of thick fabric by sprinkling it dry onion peel. Garlic is well preserved in dry sifted wood ash or dry sawdust.
4) Put the unpeeled heads of garlic in an enamel bowl and fill with water so that it completely covers the garlic. Stay three days. Change the water daily - morning and evening. Then peel the heads, put them in glass jars and fill with brine (two tablespoons of salt per liter of water). You can add a little hot pepper, then the garlic will taste like pickled - without the use of vinegar and other spices. In this filling, the garlic is about a week until the bubbles stop standing out. Then the brine is added to the top, and the garlic is aged in it for about a month. Packaged in jars and closed with a regular plastic lid, salted garlic is ready to eat. Keep it in the refrigerator, but it is better - near the balcony or front door where it is cooler. There it will not deteriorate and will eventually acquire pleasant taste. It is a great addition to soups, gravies and condiments.
5) You can store garlic in sunflower oil. Pour the peeled cloves into a three-liter jar, fill with oil and close with a plastic lid with holes so that the garlic "breathes". In such a "package", being in the refrigerator, it does not deteriorate for a very long time and is always ready for use. Oil will also acquire nice smell garlic.
6) And you can also make garlic powder, which is so convenient to use as a seasoning for the most different dishes where garlic is required according to the recipe: for meat, fish, poultry, salads, etc. To do this, you just need to peel and wash the garlic cloves, then cut them into thin plastics and dry thoroughly, and then grind them. The only "but": if you dry the garlic, not well enough, then you will not be able to grind it. Perhaps the meat grinder will take it, but at the exit from it you will not get a powder, but a viscous viscous mass, which will then be very problematic to turn into powder.
Svetlana Shlyakhtina, Yekaterinburg
Garlic seeds - bulbs in the photo
Garlic seeds are called bulbils. They are used to obtain single-prong heads.
Before planting, the bulbs must be kept in the refrigerator (at a temperature of 5 ° C) for about a month. Otherwise, the bulbs will not grow. Only greens will grow from unprepared seeds.
Garlic bulbs should be kept in the cold in advance - this accelerates the development of the plant and its maturation. One and a half to two months before the proposed planting, the heads of garlic are placed in a cold place with a temperature of about 5 ° C. For these purposes, the cellar or the lower shelf of the refrigerator is suitable.
When preparing garlic for planting, make sure that the seed must be absolutely healthy. The teeth selected for planting should be:
- dense and elastic;
- without mechanical damage and dents;
- without signs of disease (stains of rot or mold);
- with full shell.
So that the bottom from which the root system of the plant is formed does not dry out, the sorted bulbs are divided into cloves on the day of planting, while being extremely careful to prevent mechanical damage cloves. Never remove the upper integumentary scales, since, as practice shows, a head grown from a bare tooth cannot be stored for a long time.
An important step in the pre-sowing preparation of garlic for planting is disinfection. This procedure does not give a full guarantee that the plant will not get sick, however, several times reduces the risk of developing diseases and damage by nematodes, garlic mites and other garlic pests, of which it has many.
Salt solution for disinfection. Prepare a solution at the rate of three tablespoons of rock salt per 10 liters of water, and immerse the prepared cloves in it for a day.
Ash lye for disinfection. Half a kilo of sifted wood ash pour three liters of warm boiled water, stir, let stand for 20 minutes, put on fire, bring to a boil and let stand until the composition has cooled completely. Ash liquor is the resulting liquid without sediment. When in contact with the solution, it is advisable to use rubber or latex gloves. Strain the composition and dilute with water in a ratio of 1: 2. In this substrate, it is enough to withstand cloves for 1-2 hours.
Solution- blue vitriol for disinfection. This composition helps against fungal diseases of the plant: two teaspoons of copper sulphate without a top should be poured with a liter of water, stirred and kept in garlic for a quarter of an hour.
Potassium permanganate solution. The composition has complex disinfecting properties: prepare a medium-pink solution of potassium permanganate and soak the cloves in it for a quarter of an hour.
After disinfection, the teeth are immediately planted in the ground without washing. The beds must be pre-prepared, fertilized in advance and well loosened.
With proper cultivation of garlic from bulbous seeds at the end of the season, bulbs will be obtained, in which there will be from 4 to 10 cloves.
Planting garlic in spring with bulbil seeds (with video)
For planting garlic bulbs in the spring, the largest cloves are selected and planted in a sunny place after the soil warms up.
The teeth are planted to a depth of about 5 mm. If mulch is not provided, planting should be done at a depth of 7.5-10 mm. Of course, the cloves must be buried in the soil with the root part down. The distance between the holes should be 10-15 cm, between the rows - about 25-30 cm. Mulch on the beds with garlic is still worth using. This greatly increases the yield. Plant beds can be covered with straw, reeds, leaves.
Introduce into the soil organic fertilizers and carefully loosen it. When planting, the seeds should not be buried too much, otherwise they will germinate for a long time.
Watch the video "Planting Garlic Bulbs" to better understand how this agricultural technique is performed:
As a result of the correct cultivation of garlic from bulbs in open field get a good crop of single-toothed. It can be eaten or used as planting material.
After the arrows have appeared and completely straightened, the plants are dug out of the ground with roots and hung out to dry in bunches in a dark, dry place (you can in the attic). So they are kept for a month, until the stem dries completely. After that, it is cut off, leaving a stump of 2-3 cm at the bulb itself. The seeds should be stored in a dark, dry place in winter.
The garlic, which was grown from bulbs for further use as planting material, is best stored separately from food. For the winter, the heads should be placed in a cool (from 18 to 20 ° C), well-ventilated area. The air humidity in it should not exceed 90%. Too dry air for garlic is also not useful (at least 60%), as it can dry out and begin to disintegrate into teeth. It is best to put the bulbs in slatted boxes.
In order to prevent garlic from drying out during storage, you can put it not in boxes, but in bags made of dense fabric, sprinkling the heads with onion peel. Also, sometimes the heads are lubricated with boiled vegetable oil(0.5 l), to which iodine (10 g) is added. Apply this composition to the bulbs with a cotton swab.
Summer residents are often interested in how to grow garlic from bulbs, and how this garlic planting material differs. Planting garlic with bulbs allows you to rejuvenate the variety, grow new harvest, without spending money on seed stock, and without using your garlic grown for food for planting.
Bulbs of garlic (or air bulbs) are not actually seeds, they are full-fledged garlic bulbs grown on the arrows of a winter vegetable. Usually, only emerging arrows are broken out so that they do not take strength from the emerging heads, but from 70 to 80 bulbs can ripen on each arrow. If you leave a few things to grow and develop further, then the heads of these plants will form smaller, but besides them, the gardener will receive excellent material for sowing.
Usually we plant garlic cloves grown on our site, and every year our garlic becomes smaller and more often exposed to diseases, it suffers from fungal diseases more often, a stem nematode often penetrates through the bottom of the bulb. Updating the seed fund requires investing money, and by planting bulbs, you can not only save money, but also significantly improve the quality of products. They are absolutely clean, devoid of any infections, the nematode does not get to them either, if you use them as a seed, then the variety is rejuvenated. Thus, growing garlic from bulbs improves and heals the material for sowing.
Sowing bulbs, only after two years you can get full-fledged heads of garlic, consisting of cloves. But already in the first year, single teeth grow, which, if necessary, can be used for food, they are one big juicy clove, it is even easier to clean it.
How bulbs are grown
Only winter garlic shoots, dividing the head, we often see a small rod in its very middle - this is the rest of the arrow, which began to grow, but was not allowed to grow. From about mid-June, arrows appear, they are distinguished from leaves, and they are immediately broken out so as not to weaken the plant, not to divert strength from the emerging onion. If we want to grow bulbs, then we need to leave a few of the strongest arrows. The amount can be roughly calculated, knowing that each inflorescence will give more than 70 air bulbs. It is desirable to collect them with a margin, since not all of them will necessarily grow later.
After a month (or a little more), the leaves will begin to dry out, you need to carefully monitor the inflorescences. When the film begins to crack, the arrows are cut off, leaving long "tails". They need to be dried, do it away from sun rays. You can put them in a thin gauze bag and hang or lay them out on a flat surface, place them in the shade under a canopy or in a ventilated room. If the bulbs are well dried, they can be stored for up to two years in a dark, dry room with a temperature not exceeding +20 degrees.
They are of interest only as seed material, but differ from real seeds in their large size and fleshiness. Therefore, they need to be dried very well if you plan to plant them in the spring or a year later.
Bulb planting methods
You can plant (more precisely, sow) bulbs before winter, then next summer single teeth will grow. And you can plant them in the spring at the same time as spring garlic.
In autumn, they are sown about a month before the onset of frost, most often this happens in mid-October, so that they are well rooted before the cold weather, but do not begin to grow. They are planted to a depth of 4 cm in 2 - 3 pieces, leaving a distance of 6 - 8 cm between them, and between rows - about 15 cm. As winter approaches, the garden bed is mulched with hay, grass, leaves, if expected Cold winter, can be covered with spruce branches. Winter planting is considered risky, because the planted bulbs can freeze in the absence of snow or simply squeeze out the freezing ground upwards. If this did not happen (and some part will winter even in the most extreme conditions), then in the spring after the snow melts, friendly shoots will appear.
Many people consider the spring sowing of bulbs to be more effective, especially in regions with cold winters. Until spring, dried air bulbs are stored in a dry, dark room with a moderate temperature, and a month and a half before sowing they are taken out to prepare. The seed must be stratified, for this it is placed in the refrigerator for several weeks. This will allow you to grow excellent single-pronged heads, if you do not cool them before planting, then the garlic will grow until late autumn, its leaves will not dry out, and the head will begin to glass. After stratification, plant growth stops in August, the leaves dry up, single teeth are perfectly stored until planting next spring, no vitrification process threatens them.
Most gardeners consider stratification to be the only preparation for sowing. Before sowing, some bulbs are soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate, copper sulfate, trying to prevent possible diseases.
Most likely, this is an extra reinsurance, since the bulbs themselves are a uniquely pure inoculum, they are not infected with anything.
Garden preparation
Bulbs are sown on the prepared bed so that they are at a depth of 3–4 cm, 3–5 cm are left between them, the moist soil is compacted, mulched. Then they are grown in the same way as spring garlic. Harvest when the leaves lean towards the ground. If you delay harvesting, the leaves will dry out, and it will be difficult to find a crop. Garlic is selected from the ground, dried, and then planted like ordinary winter garlic. Next year, he will delight with excellent large heads of garlic.
You can speed up the process of growing garlic from bulbs. To do this, they are slightly dried after harvesting, so that they can be easily disassembled by hand, and immediately planted in the ground. Single teeth will ripen by October, that is, by the time it is time to plant for the winter. Therefore, it is better not to touch them at all, and next spring they will grow like ordinary winter garlic, only the harvest will be much better.
Secrets of growing garlic crops
Garlic loves light nutrient soil, before planting, it is advisable to fertilize the bed well. In the fall, humus or compost, superphosphate and potash fertilizers are applied, and urea can be added in the spring.
After planting, it would be good to mulch the bed, this will help delay the drying process of the soil and prevent weeds from growing.
Garlic responds well to feeding with chicken manure infusion during the summer, only the infusion needs to be diluted more, reducing its concentration. For garlic, it is very important to follow the rules of crop rotation. In one place it can be grown in 3-4 years. In no case should you plant it after onions, carrots, cucumbers. It is best to plant garlic with planting bulbs after tomatoes, legumes, cauliflower or white cabbage.
Video “Reproduction of garlic bulbs”
From this video you will learn about the propagation of garlic bulbs and the preparation of seed for autumn planting.
