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Chrysanthemums are the last colors of summer in a fading autumn garden, the brightness of which can only be compared with autumn asters. Their bitter aroma, reminiscent of wormwood, which flutters in the autumn wind, reminds of the imminent approach of cold weather. You can revive the garden and prolong the good summer mood by planting Korean chrysanthemums. They are hybrids of garden chrysanthemums, easy to grow, and every year the number of their varieties increases.
Korean chrysanthemum (C. Koreanum) is a small-flowered hybrid, which is popularly called "oak trees" for the similarity of the leaf structure with oak trees. This is a shrub chrysanthemum that grows to a height of up to 125 cm, depending on the varietal characteristics. It has multiple inflorescences of both simple and terry species, the diameter of which ranges from 2 to 9 cm. This chrysanthemum is unpretentious in care, reproduces well, easily takes root in fertile soil and lives there for 3-4 years. The flowering of this "autumn beauty" falls on the equator of September and pleases the eye before the arrival of frost. Depending on the varietal characteristics, Korean chrysanthemum is divided into certain types:
Low-growing varieties rarely exceed 30 cm in height. They are used to decorate borders or planted in flowerpots for landscaping verandas, arbors. Medium-sized species reach 55 cm. They are successfully used to complement landscape design or grown for cutting and creating flower arrangements. Tall hybrids grow up to 120 cm and are extremely rare. They start up a strong root system and have thick stems, dense foliage and large inflorescences. Despite the fact that all Korean chrysanthemums bloom in autumn, they are conditionally divided into early ones, which bloom at the end of August, and late ones - their flowering period starts after the arrival of cold weather, that is, in September-October. The use of both varieties of chrysanthemums ensures flowering in the garden from August to the end of November. And some species can keep their buds until the first snow. Not all Korean chrysanthemums are hardy. Plants of medium and high growth calmly endure even severe frosts, subject to the instillation of preparation for wintering. Low-growing varieties do not have a strong root system, and can freeze if the air temperature drops below -10⁰С. Therefore, it is preferable to dig them out and transplant them into flowerpots. A large variety of chrysanthemums is due to the versatility of inflorescences. There are large buds (7-10 cm in diameter), and smaller ones. The buds are terry, in which the petals are placed in several rows. There are also semi-double and regular inflorescences. Pompom-shaped chrysanthemums look especially colorful, in which the inflorescence resembles a whole circle of petals. A special place in gardening is occupied by spherical chrysanthemums. They are not tall, outwardly resemble a ball, covered with many small buds of various colors. Their diversity is so great that they are most often used to decorate park alleys, gardens, and alpine slides. They are also suitable for home growing. They grow well in pots on a balcony or veranda and bloom for a long time even after the onset of cold weather. Chrysanthemum Korean, varietiesAll varieties differ in color palette, bush height, size and structure of inflorescences. Most varieties are frost-resistant and can withstand temperatures down to -7⁰С, so they are successfully grown everywhere. The varietal variety of Korean chrysanthemums is constantly increasing, so it is difficult to keep track of new hybrids, but the following varieties remain clear favorites among flower growers:
For planting Korean chrysanthemum, you can buy certain varieties or a ready-made mixture of different seeds to create iridescent multi-colored chrysanthemum carpets. There are many options to choose from, but gardeners often prefer these mixtures:
Korean chrysanthemum, planting and propagationOak trees are light-loving flowers, so when choosing a suitable planting site, it is better to pay attention to the sunniest area without open drafts and stagnant water. Choosing a place for Korean chrysanthemumPlanting this flower in a dark place will be a big mistake - the stems will stretch, the foliage will thin out, the color of the inflorescences will become dull, and the flowering time will be significantly reduced. Chrysanthemum is also demanding on the soil. It should be moderately moist so that the plant does not rot or rot. But at the same time, the plant does not like dry, solid ground so regular watering is necessary. If not ensure right amount moisture, the stems of chrysanthemums will become woody, and the flowers will become small. The soil for Korean chrysanthemums requires neutral. Too acidic substrate prevents the plant from growing and actively releasing buds. In addition, the soil must be nutritious. As a mulch, a mixture of needles, rotted manure and peat will fit.
Rules for planting Korean chrysanthemumPlanting seedlings is carried out in the spring, when the return frosts are already behind, from the end of May to mid-June. You can also plant in the fall, but no later than 2-3 weeks before the first frost. The optimal weather conditions for planting Korean chrysanthemums are a non-sunny or rainy day. Chrysanthemum is well accepted and grows on fertile, moisture- and breathable soil. If the soil is heavy, a loose structure can be easily achieved by adding sand. It is better to plant seedlings in trenches, rather than individual holes. It is necessary to dig a recess 30 cm deep, pour abundantly with water, then lay out a drainage ball, followed by a mixture of soil and biohumus (1: 1/2). Further, the root system is placed in a trench, straightened and sprinkled with soil. At the same time, it is necessary to maintain a distance between the bushes of 45-60 cm, depending on the varietal characteristics of chrysanthemums. If tall chrysanthemums are planted, supports are additionally installed. Immediately after the planting, you need to pinch - cut off the growth point of a young seedling. For stronger and faster rooting, you can pour the entire trench with root solution in a ratio of 1 g of powder per 1 liter of water. After that, you need to provide a suitable microclimate for the formation of the root system. To do this, cover the seedlings with lutrasil or any other covering material. Shelter is removed after the first signs of growth appear.
Cuttings of Korean chrysanthemumsThe most accessible and easy-to-perform method of propagating chrysanthemums is cuttings. Reproduction is carried out in the same period as the planting of seedlings, that is, in spring at a stable air temperature of 22-25⁰С. With the help of a sharp knife, a cutting is cut from the uterine shoot of the plant (the lateral sprout is not suitable) at a distance of several mm above the bud with the leaf. The resulting cutting is immersed in any growth stimulator and the cut point is stuck into a prepared container with a nutrient substrate and a ball of sand (2-3 cm), at an angle of 30-40⁰. The stalk should be in the sand, not sinking into the ground. After that, containers with cuttings are placed on a sunny windowsill, the soil is regularly moistened and the temperature is maintained at 15-18⁰С. After 14-20 days, the stalk takes root and can be transplanted.
Growing Korean Chrysanthemums from SeedsOf course, propagating chrysanthemums by cuttings or dividing the mother liquor is very simple. But a flower grown from seeds is not just the hard work of a gardener, but also a source of his pride. Korean chrysanthemum seedsKorean perennials lend themselves to seed propagation. Seeds are sown indoors in February. To get healthy sprouts, you need to buy Korean perennial chrysanthemums with a high percentage of germination, as well as properly prepare the soil. Soddy land, sand and humus are taken (2:1:1). The mixed mixture is poured with a disinfectant. Drainage is laid at the bottom of the containers, for example, stone, crushed brick. Then soil is laid out over the drainage, and seeds are sown to a depth of 3-5 mm. Next, the soil is moistened, and the container is covered with polyethylene material. Suitable temperature for seed germination is 25⁰С.
Seedling of Korean chrysanthemumAfter the appearance of the first sprouts, the shelter is removed from the containers. Primary care is carried out: sufficient watering and picking in separate pots (after the appearance of the second leaf). You should also carry out two top dressing of seedlings: the first time after picking, and the second - after transferring to a large pot. At this stage, chrysanthemum sprouts begin to accustom to street conditions. To do this, they are regularly taken out into the street, gradually increasing their duration of stay in the air.
Korean chrysanthemum seedlingsAfter picking, seedlings are kept at 16-17⁰С, watered as the substrate dries and fed twice a month with complex fertilizers. After 1.5-2 months, the seedlings reach 20 cm in height. Planting seedlings is carried out when there is no longer a risk of frost. Seedlings are planted in prepared rich and loose soil. Holes are made, ½-1 tbsp. l. mineral fertilizers and seedlings are planted. Then you should water the soil. In the first days after planting, seedlings need to be shaded.
Chrysanthemum Korean, cultivation and careDifferent varieties of chrysanthemums require the same type of care, because they need the same growing conditions. The only thing you need to pay attention to is the cold-resistant varieties of Korean chrysanthemums. They often freeze out, so they need additional shelter. After successful rooting of seedlings, you need to regularly care for them. When the eighth leaf appears, the tops and side shoots of the seedlings are pinched to enhance the branching of the stems. This contributes to the formation of a lush bush. In large-flowered varieties, side shoots are completely removed. Watering chrysanthemums should be plentiful and regular. It is better to use rain or settled water with the addition of 2-3 drops of ammonia. During irrigation, water should be poured only on the rhizome, avoiding contact with the foliage. If the area around the chrysanthemum is not mulched, you need to often loosen the soil and remove sprouted weeds. Fertilization is carried out a month before flowering, at the end of August. Any phosphate fertilizers are suitable for this.
Chrysanthemum perennial Korean, diseases and pestsChrysanthemums are susceptible to some diseases. This happens if the soil is excessively moist and not loose enough, and entire thickets of weeds have formed around the bushes. Among the common diseases of Korean chrysanthemums are:
As a treatment for fungi, copper-based preparations are used, for example, copper oxychloride, Bordeaux liquid, colloidal sulfur. Often chrysanthemums are affected by viruses:
These diseases are not treatable, so uprooting and destruction of plants is carried out. Nematodes can damage the leaves of chrysanthemums. Their presence is indicated by the marbling of the leaves, which gradually darken and fall off. It is quite difficult to deal with these pests, so prevention using formalin and phosphamide is needed. Aphids can infect chrysanthemums. She settles in buds and foliage. It sucks the juice from the plant, which leads to the death of its above-ground part. This problem can be eliminated by spraying Actellik.
Korean chrysanthemums - care after floweringBefore the onset of cold weather, the stems of frost-resistant varieties are cut off at a height of 12-15 cm above the ground, then they are spudded and mulched with a ball of dry foliage at least 40 cm thick. In regions with severe frosts, chrysanthemums are additionally covered with spruce branches. Non-frost-resistant varieties are dug up with an earthen lump and transplanted into boxes. They hibernate in cool rooms at a temperature of 3-6⁰С and an air humidity of 80%.
As you can see, planting and caring for Korean chrysanthemums is an easy and fun activity. Strict observance of the rules of agricultural technology will give excellent results to every gardener. Chrysanthemum Korean, photo
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Last year I already tried to plant and grow seedlings of chrysanthemums.
It didn't work out.
An attempt at namba tu.
Now I will focus not on the inscription on the bag, but on the experience of gardeners.
So...
Perennial chrysanthemums have long taken root in Russian gardens. Without them, country autumn seems boring and faded. There are no varieties now! The height of the bushes are from 10 cm to a meter. Flowering time is from August to November. The size of the inflorescences ranges from small "pompoms" to huge (10-14 cm in diameter) "saucers". And the color of the corollas is the whole palette of yellow, red, shades of white, green, lilac - the whole rainbow, except for blue.
A conditional group of cold-resistant chrysanthemums are the so-called. Korean chrysanthemums. Korean chrysanthemums include hybrids of several types of small-flowered garden chrysanthemums. Korean chrysanthemums are very popular in cold regions (Central Russia, Siberia), where they successfully winter in open ground.
Chrysanthemums: care, cultivation
Chrysanthemums are not very demanding on the chemical composition of the soil, but rather demanding on the location. They need direct sun and good drainage.
In partial shade, the flowering of chrysanthemums will not be so plentiful.
Chrysanthemum is characterized by increased photoperiodism (a reaction to the alternation and ratio of periods of light and darkness during the day). So, the flowering of chrysanthemum is affected by a decrease in the duration daylight hours autumn. To avoid disrupting the rhythm of chrysanthemums, do not plant them near garden lights or other light sources. Too high summer temperatures (especially at night) can also adversely affect the flowering of chrysanthemums.
PESTS
For garden chrysanthemums, fungi, aphids, slugs and snails that eat leaves, and roundworms that infect the roots of chrysanthemums are dangerous. From fungi, apply spraying at the beginning of the season with antifungicides, and cut and destroy the affected parts of the chrysanthemum.
Roots of chrysanthemums affected roundworms keep in water at 50°C for several minutes.
GROWING FROM SEEDS
All types of chrysanthemums are perfectly propagated by seeds. Sow them in trays with loose, moistened garden soil, lightly sprinkle with soil, lightly press. Drainage is necessarily poured at the bottom of the trays (expanded clay, small stones, broken red brick). Wet soil is poured on top of it. Seeds are sprinkled on its surface.
In this case, there is a strict rule for their termination:
Seeds of annual chrysanthemums are sprinkled with a layer of soil of 0.5 cm;
seeds of perennial varieties are left on the surface of the soil, only pressing them with the palm of your hand. Spray the top coat with a spray bottle. cover plastic bag and put in a warm place. best temperature for germination - 22-25 degrees. Do not let the soil dry out, but do not flood. And then after 1.5–2 weeks friendly shoots will appear. After that, the boxes with seedlings are exposed to a bright place.
After the appearance of 2-3 true leaves, the thickened shoots are dived into more capacious planting containers. Seedlings of chrysanthemums do not cause any special worries; care is the same as for your favorite vegetables. But plant in a permanent place in the garden after spring return frosts. Or hide.
Caring for young chrysanthemums is easy. It consists in maintaining the optimum temperature at 16-18 ° C, regular watering and top dressing. Plants fertilize 1 time in 2 weeks. If there is insufficient natural light, additional lighting may be needed. With proper care, seedlings reach 15-20 cm in height in 1.5 months. When the air is heated outside to 15-18 ° C, the plants are transferred to the greenhouse.
CUTTING AND PLIPPING
A little pruning will help to form a lush bush of garden chrysanthemums: shortening too long green shoots in spring. When the chrysanthemum produces young greens, the tallest shoots are shortened at the ends to stimulate the growth of side shoots and the formation of a round and lush bush with many flowers.
For a larger top chrysanthemum flower, thin out the side buds as soon as they form. Pinching the buds should be done until mid-June on early-flowering varieties of chrysanthemums, until the end of June on blooming varieties in September and until early July on varieties blooming in October. 
VIDIO
SOURCES
In the autumn season, they are a real decoration of the garden, so the cultivation of chrysanthemums attracts many flower growers. The flower is distinguished by its unpretentiousness and simplicity, it pleases the eye until late autumn, when all plants have long lost their attractiveness. And if the flower is transplanted from the garden into a large pot and moved to the house, then it will be possible to enjoy the chrysanthemum until late winter. But in order to achieve such a result, you need to know all the subtleties and secrets of growing this plant.
How to grow a chrysanthemum
Most flower growers like chrysanthemum, however, after trying to grow a chic bush, many give up hope and are disappointed in this flower culture. This happens due to insufficient experience or absolute ignorance of the agrotechnical features of growing this unpretentious flower.
Chrysanthemums are annual and perennial, shrub and herbaceous, with various form and structure of leaves and flowers. The height of the shrub can reach 0.3-1.1 m, and the larger its size, the more flowers are formed on it. The roots do not penetrate the soil very deeply, only a quarter of a meter. Flowers have a pleasant aroma and numerous palette of shades.
Soil features
Chrysanthemum prefers medium-heavy, loamy and moisture-intensive soils with high-quality drainage, rich in micronutrients. It is categorically unacceptable to grow perennial varieties in acidic soils, because chrysanthemum grows very poorly on them. Negatively affects growth and unripe manure.
Before planting a flower in the soil, you need to make:
- A couple of buckets of humus (per m²);
- Mineral supplements (50 g, potassium magnesia 50 g).
Then you need to dig the landing site to a depth of about 2 shovel bayonets. After that, the culture is planted, watering it abundantly.
In order for the chrysanthemum to fully bloom and delight the grower until late autumn, the cultivation of annual and perennial varieties should be planned in sunny open places. If you choose a shaded place for the flower, then the flowering will be short and late, the plant will stretch, and the shades of the flowers will be dull. The chrysanthemum does not like cold winds, so in spring and in autumn period for the plant, it is necessary to make a small rack screen or a fence.
Growing conditions
For successful and lush growth of chrysanthemum, high-quality watering is necessary. The culture also needs periodic loosening of the soil with the elimination of weeds. After planting, you can mulch the soil around the plant, which will help maintain the necessary moisture in the earthen coma. Like any other flower crop, the characteristics of growing chrysanthemums require periodic top dressing. The main thing is to water the plants under the root when fertilizing, otherwise you can burn the leafy part of the plant.
To get a compact and lush chrysanthemum bush, it is necessary to pinch the culture. Remote shoots, especially if they are already relatively larger, are a pity to throw away. But they root easily, so you can use them to propagate the culture.
Some varieties of chrysanthemums can winter in open ground under cover, however, based on the experience of knowledgeable flower growers, it is better to dig up the bushes after pruning and transfer them to the basement or cellar. Each gardener can choose for himself the most acceptable and convenient way. If the plant overwintered unsuccessfully and died, then you can always buy new bushes and avoid the same mistakes with them.
Methods of cultivation and reproduction
There are various ways to grow chrysanthemums: cuttings, seeds or dividing the bushes. Since most chrysanthemums are of hybrid origin, growing from seeds is complicated by poor preservation of varietal characteristics. That is why flower growers prefer to propagate chrysanthemum by dividing a bush or cuttings.
seeds
Growing from seeds among chrysanthemum lovers is not particularly popular, but possible. The greatest preference for seed propagation is given to small-flowered varieties of flower culture. In February or March, seeds are sown in boxes with a moistened substrate. It is better to lay them out on the surface without deepening, since they urgently need light for germination. Within a week, the first shoots begin to appear.
After about three weeks, the seedlings dive into small pots, and at the end of May they are planted in open ground. Subject to such terms, already in the first days of July, the chrysanthemum will begin to bloom. You can plant chrysanthemums and immediately into the ground (do this in May), but then flowering can only occur next year.
cuttings
Flower growers consider cuttings to be the most preferred method of propagation. Planting material is cut off when a constant 21-26-degree temperature is established on the street. The cuttings are cut above the leaf with the kidney by about 3-4 mm. total length cuttings about 5-6 cm. For rooting:
- The lower cut is dipped in a root or other root formation stimulator and stuck into the soil at an angle.
- First, universal nutrient soil is poured into the planting container, and it is covered with a 2 cm layer of sand on top. The stalk should be in the sand, not in contact with the ground.
In about half a month or a month, the final rooting will occur, as evidenced by the appearance of new shoots on the handle. The optimum temperature for rooting is about 15-18 ° C, containers with cuttings will take root better in a bright place without drafts.
By dividing the bush
The easiest way to propagate chrysanthemum is to divide the bush. In spring, most varieties give numerous root shoots. To divide the bush, you need to dig it up, clean it from the ground and separate the young shoots from the main roots with a pruner. The resulting seedlings should be immediately planted in a permanent place and watered abundantly.
Popular varieties for growing
Chrysanthemums are distinguished by species diversity. There are small-flowered and large-flowered, potted and garden, bush and branch varieties of varieties. The flowers of the plant are terry and flat, spherical and pompon, radial and curly. Among the most famous species there are those especially loved by flower growers.
Korean
Chrysanthemums of this type are distinguished by not particularly large sizes of flowers, especially by early and long flowering (up to 4 months), cold resistance and a variety of colors. Typically, such plants have a height of about 25-80 cm, and a flower diameter of 5-10 cm. The varieties Alyonushka, Snow White and Evening Lights, First Snow and Malchish-Kibalchish, Umka, etc. are especially popular.
Indian
It refers to perennial varieties of chrysanthemums with stems up to one and a half meters in height, although most often they grow to about 0.8-1 m. Varieties of Indian chrysanthemum are grown mainly in greenhouse conditions, because they differ in late flowering (September-October) and are for cutting. Popular varieties Altgold, Snow Elf, Aurora, Valley Roof, etc.
Maiden
This variety of flower culture is distinguished by a small branching stem 0.2-0.8 m tall, abundant and long flowering (from July to frost), medium-sized flowers no more than 3 cm. Enough unpretentious plant, painlessly tolerates transplantation and easily takes root in any soil.
keeled
This is an annual variety of chrysanthemum that can bloom throughout the summer season, and when it blooms late, it decorates the garden until frost. A distinctive feature of the keeled chrysanthemum is an unusual color. The inflorescences are chamomile-shaped, and the petals are painted in multi-colored rings. Chrysanthemum keeled, which is also called tricolor, grows up to 0.6-0.7 m.
Multiflora
Representatives of this species belong to low-growing curb plants that independently grow into spherical bushes, which is why such a chrysanthemum is called spherical. Such plants are so strewn with flowers that often green foliage is not visible behind them. Multiflora grows up to 20-70 cm, characterized by early and long flowering, a wide variety of colors.
Bride's dress
The annual chrysanthemum has double flowers, a branched stem and feathery leaves. The snow-white color of flowers up to 6 cm in diameter, reaching a height of 45 cm, can please the eye until frost. It grows into a compact shrub and is used for cutting.
Secrets of growing annual and perennial chrysanthemums
Agrotechnical features of growing chrysanthemums depend on the type of plant. Annual chrysanthemums can be grown by seeds directly in open ground or through seedlings.
- When sowing in the ground, 2-3 seeds are laid out in holes arranged according to a 20x20 cm scheme. The holes are pre-spilled warm water, seeds are sprinkled with earth and covered with polyethylene to retain moisture. After germination, the shelter is removed, the soil is loosened, weeds are removed. When the seedlings grow up to 10 cm and release 4 leaves each, 1 strong sprout is left in the hole, the rest are seated.
- When growing annual varieties through seedlings, it is necessary to start sowing as early as February-March. A layer of soil is laid out in seedling containers and sprinkled with soil mixture purchased in a store or made independently (humus + peat + garden soil in equal parts). Seeds are scattered over the surface, and for annuals to a depth of half a centimeter. Then sprayed and covered with polyethylene or glass. After 1.5-2 weeks, seedlings will sprout, which, after the appearance of 4 leaves, dive into a more spacious container. Seedlings are planted in the ground around the end of May, when frosts have passed.
Further cultivation of annuals involves the provision of watering, weeding, loosening and fertilizing. Growing perennial varieties differs only in that they can be propagated not only by seeds, but also in other ways, such as dividing the bush and cuttings. If seed propagation is supposed, then the seeds, unlike annual varieties, do not need to be embedded in the soil, they are only slightly pressed to the ground and covered with glass. The difference between perennial varieties and annual varieties is that they are winter period it is recommended to dig, and they bloom quite late.
How to care for indoor chrysanthemum
Growing indoor chrysanthemum at home is not easy enough - she loves cool rooms with a temperature not exceeding 18 °C. At temperatures above +25 ° C, her flowers will dry, and the flowering period itself will be reduced. Indoor chrysanthemum should be watered regularly and keep the soil slightly moist. For chrysanthemums, you need to take a well-lit place, but without constant sunlight. best period for the flowering of this plant - autumn, when daylight hours are short enough.
For the growth of side shoots and the development of additional buds on them, the chrysanthemum must be pinched periodically. This will give the flower even more splendor during flowering. And vice versa, if a lot of buds are formed on the plant, but they do not open for a long time, then you need to remove some of the inflorescences, this will enable the flower stalks to gain more nutrients and the buds will open faster, and their size will increase. During this period, constant feeding is necessary. And for the winter, the flower must be cut off and removed to a cooler place with a temperature of 3 ° C.
Growing chrysanthemums at home
The types of chrysanthemums bred today amaze with the richness of the color of the inflorescences and the abundance of flowering, the unusual structure of chamomile and double flowers. At the same time, breeders around the world are creating more and more new varieties of chrysanthemums with excellent decorative performance.
At a time when nature begins to prepare for winter, chrysanthemums begin to amaze and delight flower growers with the splendor of bright opening inflorescences. Therefore, it is popular to breed these plants at home. Growing plants indoors is not particularly difficult, chrysanthemums propagate by cuttings, grow and bloom remarkably. If we compare chrysanthemums with indoor exotic flowers, then breeding these flowers at home is not easy at all. Chrysanthemums are not demanding on the conditions of detention, resistant to diseases and pests. Amazing property chrysanthemums is their healing properties.
A flowering plant attracts the eye with an abundance beautiful flowers and interesting bluish coloring of openwork leaves. Chrysanthemum cheers up everyone who looks at it, an infusion of chrysanthemum leaves can save from the development of periodontal disease. Chrysanthemum, thanks to its ability to release bactericidal substances with its leaves, improves the microclimate of the apartment, purifies the air. Chrysanthemum easily withstands the dry air of a city apartment. That is why the cultivation of flowers at home allows even a non-professional grower to have this plant. 
Resistant varieties of chrysanthemums allow year-round cultivation of plants at home. Cuttings planted in a pot, with proper care, can bloom in a couple of months. Growing flowers indoors, start in a small container with a diameter of no more than 9 centimeters. And as you grow, transplant the chrysanthemum into a larger container, 13 centimeters in size. The grown plant can be combined in one pot, planting 5 or more pieces. Here you can already take pots of large sizes 18-30 centimeters in diameter.
When cultivating plants indoors, choose the size of the containers depending on the number of plants. Plant chrysanthemum bushes at the same distance from the pot and from each other. The area for each plant should be the same and sufficient to feed the root system. If, when growing chrysanthemums, varieties with different color the effect of the flowering result will be even more impressive.
It is very important to note the fact that in industrial floriculture, the cultivation of chrysanthemums is carried out using special chemicals that slow down the growth of chrysanthemums, so that the plant remains not high. However, it does not lose its ability to abundant flowering. Cultivation of chrysanthemums at home without the use of such additives leads to the fact that new cuttings of the same chrysanthemum grow taller, and therefore less decorative. Therefore, in order for the chrysanthemum to be more magnificent, it is pinched as it develops, for the growth of side shoots. On the lateral processes, new inflorescences will develop. For small chrysanthemums, two or three pinches are carried out to form a bush. By growing Indian large-flowered chrysanthemums by forming a stem by pinching the upper shoots, you can get a plant in the form of stem trees (with mandatory support, otherwise the thin stem will break under the weight of the crown).
Quite a lot has been written about chrysanthemums, and it would seem difficult to add anything new. However, the topic that I want to offer to the readers of the journal, in my opinion, is not yet sufficiently popularized and is mainly considered in the scientific literature.
Growing chrysanthemums from seeds:
Today I will share my experience of growing chrysanthemums from seeds. For ten years I have been purchasing mother liquors, cuttings of chrysanthemums, and as a result, I have assembled a collection of 76 varieties. Over the past 3-4 years, I myself managed to develop about 50 new promising forms of chrysanthemums. The fact is that I want to get a variety with inflorescences in which long tubular flowers would prevail and there would be only one row of reeds.
In the modern garden classification, varieties with similar inflorescences are called anemone-shaped, but to me personally, in shape, they rather resemble aster inflorescences. Chinese groups Princess or Pompom. Of all the forms I received, only six samples fully meet my requirements for the shape of the inflorescence. All the rest, standing out for their high decorativeness in color and degree of doubleness, unfortunately, in terms of the shape of the inflorescence, do not meet the standard I need.
Modern varieties of chrysanthemums, united by the common name garden chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum x hortorum hort. Bailey), are complex hybrids obtained as a result of numerous crossings of Indian chrysanthemum (Ch. Indium L.) with mulberry chrysanthemum (Ch. Morifolium Ramat).
Due to heterozygosity, plants grown from seeds, splitting in a row hereditary traits, for the most part, do not retain the qualities inherent in the mother. Therefore, the literature indicates that seed propagation of chrysanthemums is used to breed new varieties. Indeed, only 5-10% of the seedlings retain the characteristics of the parent variety, the rest are more or less different from the original. Some of the obtained plants lose most of their decorative qualities, others lose their high doubleness, and in the third, the diameter of the inflorescence decreases. But along with this, a significant part of the plants acquire signs that are of particular interest to the grower - a new color, original shape or terry inflorescences. Promising seedlings with the necessary decorative features can be easily propagated vegetatively - by dividing the bush or by cuttings. In this case, all acquired features are inherited.
In my opinion, the most variable traits are the fullness, size and color of the inflorescences. Plant height, leaf size and flowering period vary slightly, although a noticeable deviation is possible. For me, as an amateur grower, the most valuable is the change in the doubleness and color of the inflorescences. Breeders involved in breeding industrial varieties, in addition to these decorative qualities, are also interested in purely economic characteristics - resistance to certain diseases and weather conditions, transportability of cut flowers, etc. These features, as a rule, are not important for amateur flower growers who want to get a unique a variety of chrysanthemums, distinguished by its original color or the shape of the inflorescence, which, perhaps, will earn the recognition of flower growers.
In the seed propagation of chrysanthemums, the most difficult thing is to obtain ripe germinating seeds. For this purpose, in the conditions of Ukraine, mainly early-flowering varieties are suitable, to a lesser extent - medium-flowering varieties. In late-flowering chrysanthemums, seeds do not ripen even in greenhouse conditions. It is easiest to get seeds from small-flowered species; in large-flowered species, seeds are tied poorly. Nai large quantity seeds (from one inflorescence) give varieties with non-double and semi-double inflorescences. In my practice, unfortunately, it has not yet been possible to obtain seeds from large-flowered varieties with strongly double inflorescences.
Plants intended for seed collection should be planted in the most early dates. Further care is usual - weeding and loosening, top dressing and spraying, pinching and pinching. It is desirable to grow large-flowered varieties of chrysanthemums in 2-3, and small-flowered varieties in 5-8 stems. At the same time, only one inflorescence is left on one stem, which contributes to an increase in the quantity and quality of seeds. It is also necessary to timely remove axillary shoots - the so-called stepchildren.
Chrysanthemum seed plants are pinched once, removing only the spring bud. Since each pinch delays flowering by a few days, the first crown bud is used for seed purposes, and not the second, since our goal is to obtain seeds, not a long-stemmed cut.
In early autumn, when most chrysanthemums bloom, and some varieties are already fading, prolonged rains and cold fogs often occur, which can cause rotting of the corollas in inflorescences (especially strong ones). To prevent moisture from entering the inflorescence, it is advisable to install a light film cover over the plants. If possible, it is advisable to immediately transfer the chrysanthemums to the greenhouse. In the absence of a greenhouse, the plants are left in the open ground until frost sets in, then the seed plants must be transplanted into containers and placed in a warm, dry, well-lit room (veranda, glazed balcony) for growing. If the plant is low, it can be placed on the windowsill.
Inflorescences of plants grown in a greenhouse must be protected from dew (condensate) on them. To do this, it is enough to stretch a piece of gauze or agrofilm over the testicles. Varieties that have inflorescences with long corollas, as well as densely doubled ones, need to be "cut". This procedure consists in partial (by 40-50%) shortening of the petals, which prevents decay, improves ventilation and illumination of the flower and receptacle where the seeds are located.
In room conditions or in a greenhouse, the seeds ripen in November-December. In open ground conditions, in some cases, in chrysanthemums that bloom in August, the seeds have time to ripen. Seeds of new varieties ripen well in the soil, which are slightly sensitive to the length of daylight hours. Such chrysanthemums can bloom at any time of the year. Naturally, in plants that bloom in spring and summer, the seeds ripen in the open field without additional care.
The fruits of chrysanthemums are small ribbed achenes, a sign of the harvesting ripeness of seeds is the browning of the baskets. In most varieties, when ripe, the seeds crumble easily, so you should not be late with harvesting. If there is no desire or opportunity to grow your own seeds, you can purchase ready-made ones. Today is on sale various seeds chrysanthemums, mostly F1 hybrids (not to be confused with annual chrysanthemum seeds). Plants grown from these seeds are characterized by high uniformity in a number of ways.
Seeds for seedlings are best sown in February-March in shallow (6-8 cm) boxes with loose nutrient soil (I sowed them several times in April-May, while the resulting plants were no worse than plants from early crops). You can buy soil mix in a specialized store or cook it yourself. For chrysanthemum seeds, I prepare a substrate from equal parts of sifted greenhouse soil, high-moor (white) peat and humus, and then steam it (can be ignited at a temperature of 120-130 ° C) for disinfection. I fill the planting boxes with earth mixture and spread the seeds on top. Then I cover them with a layer (7-9 mm) of clean sifted river sand or vermiculite. I moisten the crops and cover with glass. At a temperature of 16-19 ° C shoots appear in 10-12 days.
Further care for seedlings of chrysanthemums is the same as for seedlings of other flower crops - watering, top dressing, additional lighting, picking. I dive seedlings when 3-4 true leaves appear on them. You can dive into boxes, cups or cassettes. It is best to immediately dive into the racks in the greenhouse. I use the same earth mix as for seeds.
In May, I plant young plants in the ground according to the 15x30 cm scheme, which is much less than the generally accepted norms, since some of the plants will definitely be culled as they grow and bloom. Such a landing scheme can significantly reduce the area occupied by the experimental site.
Summer-autumn care for seed chrysanthemums does not differ from care for ordinary plants. In order not to weaken the young plant, it is desirable to grow chrysanthemums in the first year in a single stem form.
Usually, chrysanthemums obtained from seeds in the year of sowing often have larger inflorescences, but the plants themselves are much lower, bloom 7-12 days later than those obtained from seeds in subsequent years, and also form a small number of cuttings. Despite this, in the first year it is possible to give an assessment of one or another variety, it is possible to give an assessment of its decorative qualities.
So, with patience and with a minimum of effort and money, you can create your own, albeit not yet a variety, but a chrysanthemum variety.
Growing chrysanthemums from seeds and caring for chrysanthemums at home will be described further
How to grow chrysanthemums from seeds correctly
The most productive and high-quality way of propagation of chrysanthemums is cuttings. The mother liquors are taken during the mass flowering of the plant. To do this, the best specimens are noted for varietal characteristics, growth strength, not affected by diseases and pests. In autumn, before frosts, they are carefully dug out without damaging the roots and transplanted into large, 30 cm flowerpots.
Small-flowered chrysanthemums tolerate transplantation at any stage of development, so transplanted plants can also be used to decorate the interior of buildings.
After flowering, chrysanthemums are cut and stored in a cold room or unheated greenhouse. The optimum winter storage temperature is 5-6 °C. Best timing cuttings - March, April, but if you need to get more cuttings, you need to start cuttings of chrysanthemums in February.
7-10 days after the transfer of queen cells to more warm room root growth begins to appear, the old mass of stems is removed, trying not to leave stumps above the ground. Shoots grown on the old lignified part of the bush are unsuitable for cuttings, since the plant grown from such cuttings is defective. Cuttings with at least four leaves are cut from shoots from root shoots. The cut is carried out under the node or in the middle of the internode.
With a limited number of queen cells of the same variety, cuttings can be cut within 1-2 weeks and stored in damp paper in the refrigerator, and then planted for rooting all at the same time. This method makes it possible to obtain a well-aligned planting material. As a substrate for rooting cuttings, various earth mixtures, pure vermiculite or vermiculite with sand are used. As observations have shown, the most top scores gives them rooting in perlite.
Root cuttings in greenhouses on racks or in pick boxes filled with perlite. Before starting, perlite is disinfected with a weak solution of manganese. Cut cuttings are planted to a depth of 1-2 cm. Cuttings can be planted quite densely - up to 100 pieces in a standard picking box. Rooting in perlite occurs faster than in other substrates - in 1-2 weeks, depending on the variety.
Caring for rooted cuttings consists of daily spraying and watering. The cutting can be considered rooted as soon as its growth becomes noticeable. There are no nutrients in perlite, so it is necessary to feed rooted chrysanthemums once or twice with a solution of nitrogen fertilizers in April and May. By the time of planting in the ground (in our conditions, this is the end of April - the beginning of May), the cuttings rooted in perlite look worse than those rooted in the earth mixture, but root system they have developed 1.5-2 times more powerful. After landing in a permanent place in the ground, under equal conditions, they take root faster and overtake plants rooted in an earthen mixture in growth and development. The output of cuttings from one mother bush depends on the characteristics of the variety. In some varieties, such as "Triumphal", "Pink Generosity", "November Sonne", "Canary", up to 100 cuttings can be obtained from each mother liquor. Relatively low productivity in varieties "Kievlyanka", "Autumn" - less than 20-30 pieces.
Rooting cuttings can be carried out in the summer. Summer dates provide earlier flowering of chrysanthemums next year. In early August, shoots without buds are cut from plants in the open ground for cuttings. On the shoots there should be, as with winter cuttings, 2-3 pairs of leaves. You can plant them in a greenhouse or in boxes that are previously covered with film or glass.
At the end of September, the plants are planted in pots and kept in a bright room at a temperature of 6-8 ° C in winter. Flowering in this case occurs the next year in June - July, and the seeds of chrysanthemums even have time to ripen. Before planting in the ground in a permanent place, both rooted cuttings and seedlings must be hardened. To do this, boxes with seedlings for the day must be taken out of the greenhouse to a place protected from the wind with light partial shade. After three or four days of such hardening, the plants will get stronger and become more resilient.
Chrysanthemum. Cultivation and care
Chrysanthemums are very photophilous and demanding on the soil, they prefer open, sunny areas, protected from strong winds, with good drainage. They grow best on loamy, permeable, rich organic matter soils with an acidity level of pH 6-6.5. Sandy or clay soil is improved with manure, peat, compost soil. The minimum feeding area for young plants is 25 x 25 cm. summer period spend at least 3 fertilizing alternately with organic and mineral fertilizers. On average, per 1 sq. m. make 10-15 g of nitrogen, 15-20 g of phosphorus and 10-16 g of potash fertilizers (preferably in the form of solutions). After planting, to stimulate vegetative growth, chrysanthemums should be regularly fed with nitrogen fertilizers, both mineral and organic.
Top dressing is applied every 10-14 days. In the budding stage (August-September), potash and phosphate fertilizers must be applied simultaneously with nitrogen fertilizers, which affect the brightness of the color of the inflorescences and the strength of the peduncle. Fertilizers are applied to wet soil after rain or watering. Mineral fertilizers, falling on the leaves of chrysanthemums, cause them severe burn. Therefore, you need to be careful. Chrysanthemums do not tolerate a lack of atmospheric and soil moisture. With irregular watering, their stems become woody, and the quality and persistence of flowers deteriorate; make sure that water does not fall on the leaves when watering. At the end of the growing season or before a cold snap, the bushes are cut and sprinkled with peat, sawdust or earth with a layer of about 20 cm, you can use spruce branches. Small-flowered chrysanthemums tolerate wintering in the ground well. However, moisture should not be allowed to accumulate in the wintering place of chrysanthemums. If the chrysanthemum bushes are located in a dry place, then they will not freeze.
Chrysanthemum plants can grow in one place for no more than 5 years, in plants growing in one place, for several years, decorative effect decreases: inflorescences are crushed, shoots are strongly drawn out, color fades. To avoid this, it is necessary to divide the bushes in a year or two and plant the divisions in previously dug up and fertilized soil.
The stems of chrysanthemums are fragile and easily broken, so all chrysanthemums of tall varieties must be tied to stakes or to a trellis. As the plants grow, the garter is repeated. Thick twine or soft wire is used as a garter material. The main method of reproduction is vegetative: dividing the bush and cuttings. The division of the bush can be carried out at any time, even during the flowering period. However, it is recommended to propagate varieties in early summer, when the intensive growth of young shoots begins. Well-grown root shoots are dug out along with the remains of an old bush and young shoots with roots are separated. Each such delenka gives rise to a new plant. Delenki are planted in pre-prepared pits filled with compost at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other and watered abundantly. Most effective method propagation - cuttings, since chrysanthemums are easily rooted plants, and varieties with thick fleshy stems and shoots take root worse than varieties with thin and woody shoots.
In autumn, selected chrysanthemums are cut, dug up, transplanted into boxes or pots, watered, allowed to take root, and then placed in a cool, bright room, where they are kept until February at a temperature of 4-6 ° C with moderate watering. In February, they are brought into a warmer room, watered abundantly, after 2 weeks they are fertilized with nitrogen fertilizers (20 g per bucket of water). The best cutting period is March-April. Duration of rooting 12-20 days.
Rooted cuttings are planted in boxes or pots with nutrient soil and, upon reaching a height of 15 cm, their first pinching is carried out (removal of the growth bud), the second pinching is carried out when the side shoots reach a length of 12-15 cm. 2 fertilizing alternately with organic (mullein 1: 10) and mineral fertilizers. 10-14 days before planting in a permanent place, the plants must go through a hardening period. Rooted cuttings begin to be planted in late May - early June, when the danger of the last late spring frosts has passed. You can cut chrysanthemums not only in early spring, but also in summer. Root shoots or young side shoots growing on old stems are used as cuttings. Cuttings 5-7 cm long are planted in pots or boxes with sand or nutrient soil, well moistened and covered with a glass jar.
Chrysanthemums grown from both early and late cuttings bloom almost simultaneously. The timing of cuttings significantly affects only the height of the bush. Very tall plants are obtained from early cuttings. With sufficient watering and nutrition, plants reach normal height. Chrysanthemums suffer from early autumn frosts. Sometimes after 1-2 frosty nights warm weather sets in. If during the frosts the chrysanthemum bushes are covered with burlap, plastic wrap or paper, the flowers will be saved and will be able to delight with their beauty for a long time.
After cutting the chrysanthemums, cut off the old stems as low as possible to the soil surface, clean them from dry and diseased leaves. With the onset of the first frosts (-2-4 ° C), these bushes are covered with spruce branches and dry leaves. Early in the spring, before the renewal shoots begin to grow, all foliage is removed from last year's plants.
growing chrysanthemums from seeds, how to grow chrysanthemums from seeds, caring for chrysanthemums at home
Chrysanthemum is unconditionally recognized as one of the most beloved flowers among gardeners and florists. As a rule, nurseries sell cuttings of this plant, since most varieties of the “queen” of autumn gardens and bouquets are hybrids, the propagation of which by seeds is a complex and unpredictable process. Nevertheless, the technology of growing chrysanthemum from seeds, planting and caring for it in open ground conditions remains relevant and is used by many flower growers even in climatic conditions middle lane.
Chrysanthemum is one of the leading cut crops, which occupies the second position after the rose, its production and sales volume is about 3 times inferior to the “Queen of Flowers”.
Initially, when chrysanthemums were not yet so diverse, but were annuals resembling daisies with yellow petals, which reproduce well even by self-sowing, they tried to grow them from seeds. Today, this culture has thousands of varieties, most of them are hybrids, which, when grown from seeds, lose many distinctive features. But, if you like surprises, and it doesn’t matter to you to get a flower of a strictly defined color, shape and size, try growing chrysanthemums from hybrid seeds. Their germination is high, as a result you can get flowers that are distinguished by the richest variety of amazing shapes and colors.
Starting a conversation about whether it is possible and how to properly grow chrysanthemum from seeds, you need to understand that mainly small-flowered Korean and some annual varieties are propagated in this way. Most often, as planting material on sale, you can find kits for growing chrysanthemums from seeds from China. At the same time, perennials, as a rule, are first grown for seedlings, and annual chrysanthemums can be bred through seedlings and by sowing seeds immediately outside.
How to get chrysanthemum seeds
Seeds of various varieties of chrysanthemums are always on sale, but having grown this flower once, you can collect them yourself. When growing indoor or garden chrysanthemum for seeds, you need to consider the following points:
- Large-flowered and terry varieties give very little seed, and it is difficult to grow them from seeds.
- Small-flowered simple and semi-double chrysanthemums give enough seeds with good germination.
- It is easiest to collect high-quality seeds from early and mid-early varieties; in late-flowering varieties, they simply do not have time to ripen.
In order to have time to get high-quality seeds with good germination from a plant, you need:
- plant seedlings in open ground as early as possible;
- regularly water, feed and pinch;
- make sure that there are no more than 5-8 stems on a small-flowered chrysanthemum, and no more than 3 stems on a large-flowered one;
- leave only one bud per stem.
With chrysanthemums that bloom in mid-summer, the seeds are harvested while they are still in the garden. With plants that bloom until late autumn, proceed as follows:
- to protect the flowers from getting wet, if it is not possible to transfer them to the greenhouse, the bushes are covered with foil;
- before frost, the plants are transplanted into pots, transferred to the house and placed on a windowsill located on the sunny side;
- if the chrysanthemum has to be grown in a greenhouse, it is covered with a film so that the condensate does not damage the receptacle.
Seeds are harvested in November-December, as soon as the inflorescences turn brown. If this moment is missed, they will crumble.
Remove the seeds when the baskets begin to dry out. Then they are ripened indoors. Interestingly, immediately after harvest, the germination of seeds is only 10%, and only after 2 months of storage, the seeds acquire optimal germination.
Growing seedlings of chrysanthemums from seeds
Sowing seeds for growing seedlings is carried out in early spring in moist soil, collected equally from peat, humus and greenhouse land. Ready-made sowing mixture can be bought at a specialized store, and as a rule, it is already ready for use, or you can make it yourself. In this case, before sowing chrysanthemums, it must be sterilized with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, followed by drying (the solution of potassium permanganate is prepared by eye: in this case, water acquires pale pink color). And then you still need to disinfect the soil mixture itself. For sterilization, the substrate is sieved and calcined in the oven for 15-20 minutes at a temperature of 120-130 degrees.
To sow chrysanthemum seeds and grow seedlings, you need a shallow box. A drainage layer of expanded clay or brick chips is laid on its bottom. Prepared soil is poured on top, leveled and the seeds are laid out on its surface, pressing them lightly. It is not necessary to sprinkle them with earth: in order for the sprouts to hatch, light is needed.
Then the ground in the box is sprayed from a spray bottle with pre-prepared settled water at room temperature and covered with glass or a transparent film. Before the emergence of seedlings for seedlings, the temperature in the room must be maintained within + 23- + 25 degrees. The cover is removed from time to time to ventilate the seedlings, condensate is removed from it, and the substrate is regularly sprayed to prevent drying out.
seedling care
Chrysanthemum seedlings grown from seeds When growing chrysanthemums from seeds at home, seedlings hatch in 12-14 days. With their appearance, the box is rearranged to the sunniest place in the room. In order for crops to get used to the air temperature in the room, the cover is now removed daily, with a gradual increase in the duration of the airing sessions. After about 7-8 days, the coating is completely removed.
Chrysanthemums grow very fast. In a short period, a rather powerful bush is obtained from a small nondescript cutting, which manages to bloom profusely and finish the growing season in the fall. Therefore, chrysanthemums need frequent feeding, at least three per summer.
When 2-3 true leaves are formed on chrysanthemum seedlings, they dive into cups prepared in advance for seedlings, or small pots in the same pre-sterilized and well-moistened substrate as in the box. Before starting a dive, the ground in the box must also be watered. Seedlings are planted carefully, without damaging the delicate and fragile roots. Poorly developing, lethargic, weak shoots are rejected. Sprouts planted in cups are sprayed with a solution of some growth biostimulant. After picking, the temperature in the room must be maintained at 16-18 degrees.
If there is not enough daylight in the room, additional lighting is installed above the boxes with chrysanthemum seeds, at a height of 20-25 cm, using a phytolamp, LED or gel lamp, but not an ordinary incandescent lamp. In the future, seed care for seedlings is reduced to regular watering and fertilizing with a solution of any complex mineral fertilizer, carried out once every two weeks. After about a month and a half, young chrysanthemums will grow to 20-25 cm, and they can already be transplanted outside.
Planting seedlings in open ground
It is very important to correctly calculate the time when planting chrysanthemums on the street. This is done as soon as the spring frosts pass and stable warm weather reigns. This usually happens in the last days of May. In this case, chrysanthemums begin to bloom at the end of June. In the open ground, chrysanthemums are sown with seeds, in a seedless way, in mid-May, laying them in recesses made every 25 cm, 3-4 pieces each. With this approach, the buds will begin to bloom in the first half of August. If all the seeds sprout in one recess, the strongest sprout is left, and the rest are planted.
The predecessors of chrysanthemums on the site can be herbs, legumes and ornamental annuals. Chrysanthemums should not be planted in the place where tomatoes and potatoes used to grow.
8-10 days before planting plants in open ground, they begin to accustom them to the street, taking them out to the balcony or garden every day, gradually increasing the “walk” time. By the time of landing, they should calmly spend a full day outdoors 2-3 times in a row.
In the future, the methods of how to grow a chrysanthemum from seeds and from cuttings are similar. A rainy or cloudy day is best suited for planting. Chrysanthemums love light, heat and do not tolerate stagnant moisture at the roots. A site for them is chosen on a small hill (for water flow), illuminated by the bright sun for at least 5 hours a day. It’s great if any vegetables were grown in this place in the previous season, but if the predecessors were flower crops, it’s better to choose another site.
The soil for planting chrysanthemums needs nutritious, neutral or slightly acidic, ideally loamy. If the soil is clayey or sandy, they improve it - they dig it up before planting seedlings along with organic fertilizers and mineral complexes, such as biohumus and humus. Fresh manure cannot be used. Fertilizers should not be too much, they need to be distributed sparingly and evenly, otherwise, due to their overabundance, the chrysanthemum will grow an abundant green mass, and it will be scarce to bloom.
Dig a shallow trench under the seedlings. Seedlings are placed after 30-50 cm: the larger the variety, the more space it needs. Planted plants are carefully watered under the root with Kornevin's solution (1 g of fertilizer per 1 liter of water). This will help speed up their growth. To create the necessary conditions for adaptation, a ridge with seedlings is covered with lutrasil and spunbond. When the plants begin to grow, the cover is removed.
Chrysanthemum care in the garden
Korean chrysanthemum "Okishore" grown from seeds Chrysanthemum is a non-capricious plant. Caring for it is not difficult, but it requires compliance with some rules that it is advisable to learn before growing chrysanthemums from seeds:
- On the same site without transplantation, chrysanthemums successfully grow for 2-3 years. In the first 3-4 weeks, the earth must often be loosened, during this period of time the root system is actively growing, and more importantly, underground shoots are developing, which later will form the entire bush. A month later, loosening is stopped, as it can harm the growing young shoots.
- Chrysanthemums are drought tolerant, but during initial growth constantly need moisture. During this period, they are watered frequently and plentifully, at least three times a week. When the buds are tied and the chrysanthemum blooms, you can use the “dry watering” method: loosen the ground superficially, to a shallow depth, periodically hilling and unclogging the bushes. This method is especially useful and effective in rainy or humid weather.
- Chrysanthemums grow better if the soil around them is mulched. A layer of mulch does not allow pathogens of fungal diseases breeding in the soil to move to the bush with water spray during irrigation and during rain. Pine needles are best suited for mulching, they not only protect the plant from pests, but also do not allow weeds to grow. You can also use oat straw or pine bark as mulch.
With irregular watering, the stems of chrysanthemums become woody, and the quality of the flowers deteriorates. Especially plentifully watered in dry sunny weather, and during the growth of shoots. During budding, watering is reduced.
But you need to keep in mind: perennial chrysanthemums growing on a dry hill, the site will not freeze, but those growing in a lowland where moisture accumulates will freeze. To prevent this from happening, the bushes are pruned, cutting the stems to 15-20 cm, placed in boxes with earth and taken away for winter storage in the basement.
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