What kind of person whose eyes are running. Involuntary eye movements or nystagmus - types and treatments

Bad weather and cold climatic conditions do not prevent gardeners in all regions of the country from growing tomatoes. Most often in areas with unfavorable climate they resort to planting them in greenhouses. But even if for some reason there is no greenhouse on the site, then you can grow tomatoes in open field, providing them with temporary shelter when the temperature drops.

It is very important to plant tomato seedlings in the ground in a timely manner: if you plant too early, then in cold ground they can simply freeze and die, and if this process is delayed, then the harvest time will come much later. Optimal timing planting tomato seedlings in open ground directly depends on whether protective structures will be used or not.

A temporary shelter is a design that allows you to protect plantings of tomatoes from freezing during sharp short drops in air temperature, as well as from damage, for example, by hail.

The most common temporary shelter on summer cottages is a film tunnel, which is easy to assemble and disassemble. To install it along the entire length of the planting bed, you need to arrange metal arcs, pull a film or spunbond over them and fix the covering material on the sides and ends, pressing down with bricks, stones, heavy boards, pipes, etc., so that when strong wind it didn't break.

Shelter can be used in the future, for example, in the heat, so that the tomatoes do not burn. Only the film cannot be used in this case - the tomatoes will be cooked under it, so a white non-woven material is pulled over the arcs.

Immediately after planting tomato seedlings in open ground, it is recommended to install such a shelter for the period of its adaptation. Under temporary shelter, tomatoes are planted at the end of May. Such protection will allow them to survive short-term return frosts without loss.

Planting seedless tomato seeds in the ground under cover: video

Some people confuse the concepts of a greenhouse and a greenhouse, and although the protective material in their designs is the same (film, glass or polycarbonate), they have two significant differences. Firstly, the greenhouse is a low structure (up to 1.3 m), and secondly, its design does not provide for additional heating - a favorable microclimate is created in it by preserving the heat that is released during the decomposition of organic matter (compost or humus) in a garden bed .

Planting tomatoes in a greenhouse will allow you to get their crop 2-3 weeks earlier than in unprotected soil. Planting seedlings in such structures in general case carried out from the beginning of May.

Planting tomatoes in a greenhouse: video

If any shelter is not provided for planting tomatoes, they can be planted without it, but it is worth waiting for the moment when the threat of return frosts is already behind. At the same time, the soil should be warmed up at a depth of 15 cm to +12 0 С, night temperatures should not fall below +15 0 С, and during the day, an air temperature of about +20 0 С is desirable. In areas with an unfavorable climate, such conditions are observed in the beginning-middle June, therefore, in order for the crop to ripen on the bushes, early ripening varieties are planted.

In the southern parts of the country with a warm climate, growing tomatoes is not a particular problem: gardeners get high varietal yields of this crop by properly planting seedlings and providing them with care. But in regions with an unfavorable climate, gardeners have to carefully monitor the weather reports in order to find the right moment for planting, and shelter in case of bad weather.

In the conditions of the Moscow region summer residents begin planting tomatoes in unprotected ground from mid-late May.
In the Urals, seedlings are planted in the ground in late May - early June after return frosts.
In the Leningrad region planting dates for tomato seedlings fall at the beginning of June. It is recommended to plant only early maturing plants in open ground.
In Siberia, it is difficult to accurately predict the timing of planting: they are usually the same as for the Leningrad region, but sometimes frosts can strike in early summer, so planting in this region continues until mid-June. With such a late landing and conditions short summer only ultra-early varieties of tomatoes are planted in open ground in Siberia.

If the planting of tomatoes is carried out under a temporary shelter or in a greenhouse, then its deadlines come 1 ... 1.5 weeks earlier.

It is possible to remove protective structures when favorable conditions for this arise on the site - the air temperature even at night will not fall below +15 0 С. If the weather is good during the day, and it is still too cold at night, then it is recommended to air the tomatoes during the daytime: in the greenhouse - through the windows and doors, and open the film shelters from the ends or even throw the protective material on one side (in the evening it is convenient to return it to its original place ).

In outskirts of Moscow. Temporary shelters in the conditions of the Moscow region are usually left until July, since the beginning of summer in this region is accompanied by constant rains and cold snaps.

In the Urals. The weather in the Urals is extremely changeable in summer, so plantings are left under cover until mid-July. At the same time, one should not forget about daytime ventilation in good weather, since tomatoes do not tolerate high humidity.

In Siberia. At the end of June, favorable weather in this region will allow you to remove shelters from tomatoes, but you should not remove them far. If necessary, temporary shelters are installed back.

A sharp change in environmental conditions during the removal of temporary shelter can provoke stressful condition seedlings. There are several rules, the implementation of which will greatly facilitate the process of their adaptation:

After removing the shelter, the seedlings must be well shed.
You need to remove the shelter in cloudy weather, as they can easily burn out in the sun.
By the time the shelter is removed, the plants should be hardened. To do this, they are hardened even at the seedling stage, and in the shelter, the tomatoes are intensively ventilated, opening both ends of the structure.

If you open temporary shelters, taking into account the above nuances and weather conditions in the region, there will be no loss in the number of planted plants.

How to plant tomatoes under temporary shelters

The process of planting tomatoes under shelter takes place in several stages.

For a more convenient installation of a temporary shelter, a two-row tomato planting scheme is used. They can be located opposite each other (ribbon scheme) or in checkerboard pattern. Thus, it is necessary to create a bed up to 1 m wide and dig planting holes so that the distance between them is 25–40 cm, depending on the variety grown (for bushy determinant varieties, the recommended value is 35–40 cm), row spacing is narrow - about 40 cm If the tomatoes are planted on several beds, then the distance between them will be about 0.5 m.

If the beds have not been since autumn, then immediately before planting, ash, humus can be added to each planting hole, mixed with soil and shed well.

Planting tomatoes is carried out in accordance with the selected scheme. At the same time, seedlings can be buried in order to obtain a powerful root system, but the fruiting period will come later. It is recommended to land in evening time if the day is sunny, and in rainy cloudy weather, on the contrary, in the morning.

After the tomato seedlings are in place, they are shed and a temporary shelter is installed: metal arcs are driven in, covering material is pulled over them and fixed. For tomatoes after planting, a film is most often used. It transmits sunlight well. In case of sudden cold snaps, first a thick non-woven white material (number 60) is stretched onto the frame of arcs, and a film is additionally laid on it.

In the future, during the heat, temporary shelters are also used to create shade on tomatoes, but under no circumstances should the film be used - the plants will burn! On hot days, they will be protected by spunbond.

Within 4 ... 5 days after planting, the tomatoes are not aired or watered. After this period of adaptation, seedling care begins in full: systematic watering, timely top dressing (the first of them is carried out already 1.5 weeks after planting), shaping, etc.

Proper planting of seedlings will allow you to quickly establish temporary shelters and in the future if necessary.

Beginner gardeners, due to the lack of many years of gardening experience, can make mistakes when planting tomatoes in open ground, leading to best case to problems in growing and further caring for the crop, in the worst case, you will have to replace the seedlings with new ones. Below are some of the most common mistakes made when planting tomatoes in open ground.

Premature landing. If you want to plant tomatoes in the ground as soon as possible, you must first check whether the earth has warmed up, using conventional thermometer. It must be placed at a depth of 15 cm in the soil - it is at this depth that the roots of tomatoes lie when planting. If the temperature is below +15 0 C, then it is better to postpone the disembarkation. Otherwise, the plantings will get sick and the cultivation of tomatoes will turn into their constant and difficult resuscitation.
Planting a greenhouse variety in open ground. Before growing seedlings (or buying them), you should carefully read the descriptions of the selected variety. It should be intended for landing in open ground. Trying to plant greenhouse varieties under the open sky is not worth it - they get sick for a long time, in end result perish, and you can forget about the harvest.
Planting a variety with a low index of cold resistance. When choosing a variety of tomatoes for open ground, you should pay attention to its resistance to cold snaps. This means that the variety must be zoned - adapted to growing in a particular region. It makes no sense to try to grow southern varieties of tomatoes in the open field, for example, in the Urals.
Landing in a shaded area. A high yield of tomatoes is achieved only when the plants are planted in a sunny, well-lit area. If they are planted in partial shade or even in the shade, then the greenery begins to grow actively, the number of fruits tied decreases, and their size becomes smaller.
Thickened landing scheme. Neglecting the recommended distances between seedlings in the future will lead to violations of the illumination and air permeability of plantings. All this creates favorable conditions for the appearance of rot and other fungal diseases.
Organization of support after landing. Many varieties of tomatoes intended for open ground need support. If stakes are installed for this, then they must be driven into the ground immediately before planting seedlings near the holes. After 5 days, tomatoes can be tied to them. If the support is installed after planting, there is a risk of damaging the roots of the plants.
Neglect of ventilation. If the temporary shelter is not ventilated for a long time, then increased humidity forms inside it, which will certainly provoke the appearance of phytophthora. This is facilitated by the lack of ventilation in a permanently closed building.
The introduction of fresh manure into the garden. When planting, neither in the garden nor in the planting holes for tomatoes, you can make fresh manure. Instead, you can use rotted ones, fresh tomatoes burn - white spots appear on them, the same as with sunburn.

Installing and removing temporary shelters, periodically opening them for ventilation - all this complicates the process of planting tomatoes and caring for them, but makes it possible to grow them under the open sky in regions with an unfavorable cold climate. During a cold snap, hail, heavy rain, scorching heat, a temporary shelter will be a salvation for open ground tomatoes.

Our capricious, but such beloved vegetables are growing. But when to shoot tomatoes in a greenhouse, how to do it right, alas, not everyone knows. You ask, why do you need to know? Picked ripe tomatoes from the bush and you're done.

We do not forget that growing in a greenhouse is different from open ground. If we remove everything in the beds by the end of August, then in the greenhouse the process will be stretched. There is more harvest, and the duration of ripening is delayed. For what, in fact, we put a greenhouse.

When to shoot tomatoes in a greenhouse

In general, there is no specific time frame. When to harvest tomatoes depends on:

your region of residence, in the Moscow region it will be later than beyond the Urals
from the cultivated variety, some large-fruited and late-ripening tomatoes hang until the end of September
from the time of planting, and from the quality of care, if normal greenhouse temperature and humidity were maintained, top dressing was applied, then the tomatoes will begin to bear fruit earlier and longer
from the greenhouse, its covering, of course, in the film nights it will be already colder and the picking of tomatoes will have to be carried out earlier

Greenhouse tomatoes are always harvested a little earlier, not fully ripe, to allow the fruits that are higher on the brush to ripen faster.

There are varieties in which it is difficult to remove unripe tomatoes, in which case there will be nothing to worry about if they hang on the branches until they are fully ripe.

There is one more moment when you need to leave the tomatoes in the greenhouse to ripen completely on the bush, this is the collection of seeds. Be sure to collect seeds from the variety you like only from fully ripened tomatoes that are ripe and not ripening in boxes.

Unripe tomatoes are easier to transport if they grow in the country, this is an undeniable advantage.

Do I need to collect green tomatoes in a greenhouse

At all green tomatoes collect in extreme cases:

When the temperature at night drops below +8 degrees.

When, due to weather conditions or poor care, epidemics of diseases begin.

In such cases, if all the fruits have already grown on the uppermost brushes, then they are removed without exception.

There is also nothing to worry about if the tomatoes are taken green. We sometimes have to shoot them not even in their milky maturity; in Siberia, nightly cold spells sometimes begin very early.

If you notice signs of phytophthora on the lower tomatoes, then it is better to start picking tomatoes right away, otherwise, instead of singing, they will begin to turn black and deteriorate. In order for such tomatoes to ripen well in boxes, you must first sort them out and remove all the fruits with the presence of fungus spots. Then each tomato is dipped in hot water for a few seconds, and then in cold water, wiped dry and laid out for ripening. Temperature hot water should be 60 degrees.

How to harvest tomatoes in a greenhouse

We know that tomatoes do not ripen all at once, but gradually, starting with the lower fruits. You need to collect them just as gradually, first removing the largest and ripe ones, then the rest as they ripen.

In order for the tomatoes to feel good during ripening, in order to eventually get firm and elastic tomatoes, they must be removed along with the sepals, then they will not lose moisture.

How to harvest tomatoes for ripening

When the first tomatoes are harvested, they need to be identified in some containers, boxes, boxes, preferably in one or two layers, in order to control the ripening process more conveniently.

Some, if there are a lot of fruits, simply pour them in a separate room directly on a rag spread on the floor and thus bring the tomatoes “to condition”, gradually choosing those that have ripened for food or preservation.

The ripening rate can be adjusted, if the room is cool, up to +18 degrees, then the tomatoes will sing from ten days to two weeks. If you need to get ripe tomatoes faster, then raise the temperature or place them in heat, +26 and they will ripen in three to four days.

Advice from grandmothers, so that the tomatoes ripen faster, you need to put a ripe red tomato or a red apple next to the box.

When ripening, one should not forget to inspect the fruits, remove the spoiled ones and select the ripe ones in time. It happens, due to an oversight, that a long-ripened tomato from the bottom row will begin to deteriorate and infect nearby tomatoes.

When to pick tomatoes in a greenhouse video

What is pinching a tomato?

In the basement or in the underground)) The main thing is that it is dry) We are generally under the bed in dark room store))) She ripens well there)) In general, there should be following conditions: temperature from 5-15 degrees above zero. And the humidity should not be higher than 80%. In apartments, I know, many are stored in glazed loggias ...

Leaves

Late-ripening pumpkins (they are also hard-skinned) are represented by varieties

When is it necessary to pinch a tomato?

. Harvesting of these varieties usually begins in mid-late August. They are delicate, the shell is thin. They ripen quickly and are not stored for more than a month.

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How to pinch tomatoes correctly?

Winter garlic should be harvested in dry weather, preferably in the morning. Lightly dig the bulb with a shovel, then carefully pull it out of the ground, holding the feathers. Lay it on the ground (or on a special bedding), then proceed to dig up the next bulb. After the entire crop is dug up, cover the bulbs with cotton cloth (this will prevent intense evaporation of moisture and the garlic will not burst during drying), and if the weather allows, then leave the garlic for a few days (three to five days). After a while, transfer the crop to a dry, well-ventilated area, and after a month you can start trimming the roots and false stems.

Pasynkovanie tomato with indeterminate bush

Movements must be quick and precise so as not to damage the growing stems or other important organs;

In case of doubt about the removal of the shoot, it is left to grow, it can then be pinched off, having completed the growth. How to stepson tomatoes in a greenhouse with an indeterminate type of bush?

When growing tomatoes, use abundant mineral nutrition to get a high yield. At the same time, the tomato begins to give many additional shoots. This leads to a thickening of the planting and a decrease in yield. To regulate growth, pinching a tomato is used.

And there should not be rodents who love to build their nests in a pumpkin.

Pinching a tomato with a determinate bush

Turned yellow, faded or even dried up (at least some of them).

Pearl, Nutmeg, Vita, Interception, Testi Delife, Baternat Ponca, Vitamin

Term of maturation

After performing an operation on one plant, before moving to another, it is necessary to dip the blades of the tool in a disinfectant solution, for example, 1% bleach or 1% potassium permanganate;

Stepping a tomato in pictures will more clearly show the places where extra shoots are removed and the formation of a bush.

Depending on their variety, they form, leaving one, two, and also three main shoots.

How is the pinching operation performed?

In a tomato, in each leaf axil, starting from the first real one, a shoot can grow. It is part of the main stem and does not differ from it in growth type. Leaves are located on it, brushes with fruits are laid. These escapes initial stage growth is called stepchildren. If you leave them, then the tomato begins to branch and thicken. On the brushes of stepchildren, ovaries are formed and an overload of fruits occurs. This leads to the crushing of all fruits. One of the stepchildren can grow intensively, begins to lead in relation to others and becomes the main top.

A good addition) And it is also better to keep away from cats)). There are such mischievous cats who describe all the new property that falls into their field of vision))) My grandmother's cat likes to write in potatoes. In general, you can’t leave ... In general, protect the pumpkins from all kinds of creatures, gentlemen =)))

. Basically, these are nutmeg varieties, brightly colored, fragrant, with a thick shell and tasty pulp. Such a pumpkin is stored up to six months! Harvesting late-ripening pumpkins should begin in mid-late September. However, often

is 92-104 days. 3.5 months, roughly speaking.
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Agronomist in every home (training video instructions)
Harvesting dates for summer garlic usually fall in mid-August - mid-September. The first signs of maturation: softening of the neck of the bulbs, cessation of growth of feathers, massive yellowing of their tips, lodging of the stems. All these signs indicate that root system plants die off, garlic heads are formed, so wait sunny day and start harvesting. The harvesting technology and preparation for storage are similar to those described above, however, it is worth noting that spring garlic requires more careful handling than winter garlic.
Leave a piece of shoot about 1.5 cm to slow down the formation of new unnecessary shoots in this place;

Varieties and hybrids with a superdeterminant type of bush branching have their own characteristics in pinching. Currently, varieties of tomatoes without pinching have been bred. If you remove all the extra shoots up to the first brush, then later they can, in general, not stepchild. Such tomatoes include, for example, Alaska, White filling 241, Vershok, Boni M, Gavrosh, Ground Gribovsky 1180, Moskvich, Rocket, Siberian early ripening, Yamal.

When forming, including only one stem, all stepchildren are removed in the axils of the leaves, leaving only the main shoot with fruitful tassels. In greenhouses, the tomato is gradually lowered and the stem is laid on the surface of the soil, and all the stepchildren that form continue to be removed.

Proper pinching of a tomato - video lesson

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In order to even out the ratio of green mass and the number of fruits, to adjust the load, they use pinching a tomato in a greenhouse. This is the removal of unnecessary shoots in the leaf axils before their strong thickening begins.

We still have a pumpkin in the garden)

The pumpkin itself has become brighter and more saturated. Depending on the variety, it can be dark orange, yellow or gray-green. We had such a pumpkin last year: gray-green on the outside, speckled, and inside the flesh is orange. In general, colors and shapes are very, very different.

maturation period

Mid-season include pumpkin varieties such as

You can, of course, leave it until Halloween... But personally, I think that a pumpkin is much better to eat than to cut out heads from it and scare passers-by))). Therefore, it is better to remove this vegetable from the garden on time. But when, tell me, will this most “on time” come?

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Continuous harvesting of tomatoes in the greenhouse. When to remove tomatoes from the greenhouse

In this video you will see how to properly carry out continuous harvesting of tomato plants from the greenhouse. How to harvest tomato plants if green crops grow nearby.

The cut parts are put in a container and taken out of the greenhouse so as not to provoke the appearance infectious diseases from plant residues.
Most determinant varieties grown outdoors do not stepchild, as this leads to a decrease in yield. Stepping a tomato is most relevant in greenhouse conditions, because they are trying to get the maximum yield, recouping the cost of maintaining an expensive structure.

Forming in two or more main stems, respectively, the same number of additional shoots are left to grow. They turn into fruitful shoots and become additional stems. The rest of all shoots are gradually removed, preventing them from outgrowing.
It is best to remove them before they grow in length no more than 5 cm. Before this size, the stepson still slightly pulls on himself nutrients and removing it does not harm the tomato. If they are removed later, the tomato is injured and it loses its yield.
Nah... we've been in storage for a long time. Last week was the first snow. And it's generally cold. They promise warming by mid-October, but so far it’s cold in November)

Shell
It is not 120-140 days, but about 200. So what then to be? Harvest an unripe pumpkin? Quite right! It will ripen perfectly in storage - in 20-60 days it will reach the peak of its maturity. The flesh will become brighter and so tasty that it can even be eaten raw.
Winter sweet, Smile, Baby, Hundred-pound, Volga gray, Medical, Russian, Winter canteen A-5, Pink Banana, Blue Hubbard
Define right time cleaning can be done in two ways: by timing and by appearance plants. Let's talk about timing first. Suppose we planted a pumpkin in the second half of May (optimal for the middle lane).
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We will also show you how to set up a green conveyor after harvesting your tomato plants. Let's talk about a new vegetable crop - daikon, we will hold the first autumn harvest of radishes.
Sometimes after pinching, after some time, in the place where the shoot was removed, a new one begins to grow. It is formed from a dormant bud that was in the leaf axil. Therefore, you have to re-delete stepchildren.

The most common way to remove shoots is to break them off with your hands.
Varieties with a determinant type of bush are more difficult to pinch than indeterminate ones. There is always the possibility of removing the desired shoot, which will continue the growth of the whole plant.
The first stepchildren can be observed already in seedlings. Therefore, when planting, all extra shoots are immediately removed, which can be about 1 cm more. This is laborious work, but it will save you from the additional burden during care work in the greenhouse.
Thank you

Pumpkin has become denser than before.

When to Harvest a Pumpkin

Naturally, the climate makes its own adjustments to the proposed recommendations. So, in the south, a pumpkin is usually kept in the garden for a very long time - until all the foliage dries. Frosts come late there, so there is no threat. Now let's talk about the appearance of our pumpkin. How to understand that it's time to pick a berry? ;)

and

Pumpkin ripening time

The first thing to say: varieties of pumpkins are early, mid-ripening and late-ripening. Based on this, the cleaning time should be determined.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ________________________________________-________________________ Sometimes a new shoot begins to grow at the bottom of the tomato later for a long time when several brushes have already formed. The shoot is also formed from a dormant bud, but before that, the stepson might not have formed in this place. This is a varietal feature or the tomato receives too much nutrition, so the appearance of additional stems is stimulated. In order not to overload the plant and thicken the planting, these stepchildren should also be removed in a timely manner. It is advisable to do this with rubber gloves. The operation is carried out in the first half of the day, when the stems are more juicy, while the shoots break off easily. The main shoot of the determinant tomato always ends, i.e. finishes growth, forming a brush at the end. If at the same time all stepchildren are removed, then the plant does not have a growth top. It no longer forms shoots with new fruitful brushes and leaves. The harvest of such a tomato is limited only to previously formed fruits. After planting in the ground in a permanent place, the tomatoes begin to intensively form stepchildren. It is necessary to periodically, at least after 6-7 days, go through the rows and remove unnecessary shoots before they begin to outgrow. This was an April 1st joke. I think they will go away on their own

These are the main signs of a ripe pumpkin. I think based on timing and external signs, you will never lose ... The dates are written on the packages with seeds, so it’s not difficult to navigate. As you already understood, the pumpkin does not have to be ripe by the time of harvesting. And yet there are certain external signs that allow you to determine that the time for harvesting has come. Experienced gardeners may have known this for so long, but beginners ask not such questions!)) Estamres Early maturing varieties include varieties such as All about greenhouses and cellular polycarbonate Thank you for watching the video and grow the biggest crop! Garlic has long been famous for its healing properties, which is why in our latitudes it is grown everywhere, especially since the plant is completely unpretentious. There is winter and spring garlic, the harvesting time of the first one starts a little earlier than the second one.

The stepson is clamped with a large and index finger, then it is shaken in opposite directions until it is separated from the plant. Appears at the site of the break small wound. Until the end of the day, the site of damage dries up and a pathogenic infection will no longer get into it. In order not to delete the necessary stepchildren, adhere to the following rules: Stepchildren have to be removed constantly. Stepping tomatoes is an important part of the care work in the formation of a tomato. In greenhouses, this operation is carried out even after the start of fruit collection. How did they throw tomatoes? By the way, when harvesting, you need to cut the stalk so that it remains 3-4 cm long. And of course, do not damage the shell, otherwise the pumpkin will not be stored. What kind of pumpkin do you prefer? And how do you define its maturity?

A pumpkin ready to be harvested looks like this:

. These varieties are suitable for longer storage. Harvesting begins in mid-September, but before frost. If the pumpkin falls under frost, it will affect the keeping quality, and it will quickly deteriorate. Thus,

Holosemyannaya, Mozoleevskaya 49, Almond 35, Freckle, Biryuchekutskaya 27, Jack o Lantern, Gribovskaya bush

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Harvesting winter garlic Stepchildren can also be cut with a knife or scissors. When using a cutting tool, the following rules must be used:
They are removed no earlier than growing by 4-5 cm; The formation of stepchildren in determinant and indeterminate tomato varieties is different. Let us consider in detail the rules for pinching tomatoes, depending on the type of bush.
Check your computer with this: http://www.freedrweb.com/cureit/?lng=ru or this: http://support.kaspersky.ru/viruses , change your password and install a good antivirus. Good luck!!! How to store a pumpkin?

Peduncle

maturation period

Valery, Maykop (Adygea)

and

Natasha, Russia

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Tatiana

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Irina, Bender

To understand whether it is necessary to start harvesting winter garlic, you first need to look at the leaves of the plant: if the lower leaves turn yellow and wilted, then the time has come. You also need to look at the ends of the garlic stalks: bursting bulbs-boxes with seeds (gardeners call them bulbs) also indicate that the time to harvest has come. In general, it is believed that winter garlic ripens a hundred days after planting, therefore, by making simple calculations, you can set the estimated harvesting time.

Tatiana

Blades must be sharpened to razor sharpness so that damage during cutting is minimal;

Julia, Moldova

Before starting the removal, a stepson is determined, which will become the main growth shoot;

Tatiana

Indeterminate varieties are characterized by unlimited growth of the main top and all side shoots. If you do not pinch such plants, then they quickly occupy the entire volume in the greenhouse, and you will not be able to get a quality crop.

Nadezhda Medvedeva

It was an April Fool's joke! She will get away

Along with potatoes and cucumbers, tomatoes are one of the most popular vegetable crops in the country. Easy care, high taste and nutritional qualities led to widespread use of this product. However, in its cultivation there is one significant nuance that affects marketable condition. It's about about harvest time. When to shoot tomatoes in the open field, and what are the stages of maturity of this vegetable, read on.

Tomato belongs to the perennial plants of the extensive nightshade family, numbering about 2000 species. The cultivation of the vegetable began from the Black Sea and the Volga region and gradually covered most of the geographical zones of Russia, including the north.

There are 5 stages of ripening tomatoes:

early ripening (green, whitened);
early (milk);
mid-season (brown, blanche);
mid-late (pink);
late (red).

When determining the maturity of a tomato, it is important not to confuse green fruits that are ready to eat and unripe greenish vegetables that are in the process of ripening. The former are suitable for eating and transporting over long distances. The second needs to mature. However, even after ripening, their taste will not meet the expectations of gardeners. A vegetable removed too early will never be juicy.

Table 1. Characteristics of tomatoes depending on the stages of ripeness

Stage	Description
Early maturing	The average plant height is 50 cm. The fruits are mostly small, flat-round, weighing up to 150 g. They are grown both in open ground and in greenhouses. Appointment - salad.
Early	Medium-sized firm vegetables. Used for conservation.
Mid-season	Soft juicy fruits that do not deteriorate during transportation. The area around the stem is stained with pink color. The flesh is golden or yellow. Used for culinary purposes.
Middle Late	The height of the stem reaches 1.5 m. Large red fruits have a rich taste. Not suitable for long distance transportation.
Late	Tall varieties growing up to 2 m in height. Up to 40 ovaries are formed in one brush. Productivity reaches 12 kg per bush.

fruiting period

When planting vegetable crops that bear fruit several times during 1 season, you should familiarize yourself with the timing of harvesting the first and last harvest. This will prevent the removal of unripe or overripe fruits.

Ripening period:

early ripening - from 60 to 70 days;
early - from 75 to 90;
mid-season - from 85 to 105;
mid-late - from 105 to 120;
late - from 130 to 160 days.

More exact dates depend on the variety of tomatoes, climatic conditions and care features.

Best time to harvest

Most gardeners prefer to harvest fruits in early August. This desire is dictated by the reluctance to leave vegetables in the cold dew, which is detrimental to many crops. However, not every variety lurks such a danger. By this period, it is recommended to remove only fully ripened vegetables.

With a competent approach, up to 2 kg of early-ripening varieties, 3 kg of mid-ripening and 6 kg of late varieties are harvested from each bush.

For better ripening of tomatoes, it is recommended to spend on the 10th of August following procedure. Finely chop the first green or reddened pepper pods, pour boiling water over and insist for 24 hours. Then dilute in 5 liters of water and pour the resulting solution of the beds.

Special purpose

When harvesting, account should be taken of the further use of vegetables.

Areas of use:

Cooking food. For these purposes, take tomatoes that have reached the red stage (this does not apply to yellow varieties). The most ripe deep red tomatoes are good as the main ingredient for tomato juice and ketchup.
Canning. Brown vegetables are fine. They are also suitable for pickling and salting.
Long term storage. Use green fruits in the initial stage of maturity.

Regardless of the technical and physiological ripeness, the same variety can be harvested on different stages maturation.

The need for pruning

Tomato is considered a capricious heat-loving vegetable. In low light conditions, it does not bear fruit well.

With a dense planting pattern, the leaves block access to the sun. This significantly inhibits the development of vegetables and contributes to the rapid withering of the bush. Besides a large number of greenery will draw all the forces from the culture for own food rather than to support fruit growth.

General rules for cutting foliage:

First of all, the leaves touching the ground are cut off. This allows light to reach the base of the stem.
Then the first row of the flower brush is released, which prevents the development of pathologies.
Peripheral foliage is also removed.
Leaves that obscure other external organs of the plant are thinned out.
Only the strongest stepson is left on the bush. This will concentrate all the useful elements in one place. As a rule, it is located under the first inflorescence.
When tying vegetables, cut out all the foliage below the level of the fruit.
At the final stage, the tops are cut off, leaving only a small ligature.
The frequency of pruning is 3 times a week.

Even weekly cleaning of the bushes from excess greenery will significantly increase the yield of the beds.

Bringing tomatoes to maturity

Tomato ripening effectively takes place both in sunlight and in dim light. Although most gardeners believe that vegetables ripen faster in the light.

Storage conditions	Characteristic
Layout	The fruits are sorted by size and stages of ripeness. Vegetables are laid out in dry, clean boxes in 2 layers with a height of no more than 20 cm. For long-term ripening, they are placed in 1 layer. Every day, the fruits are sorted out and spoiled are thrown away. For better ripening, spread the stalks up. If you put a few ripe fruits in each box of unripe fruits, they will ripen within 1 week. To speed up the process, tomatoes that begin to ripen are removed daily from the boxes. They will release ethylene, which affects the ripening of other vegetables. To get the most juicy product, bushes with tomatoes are uprooted before frosts and hung on a rope. fluid outflow and useful elements from stem to fruit makes vegetables fresher.
Temperature	The optimum temperature regime is from 20 to 24 ° C. At 30 ° C, vegetables ripen faster, but lose their elasticity. To speed up the process, the temperature is lowered to 18°C, to slow down - up to 10°C heat. The colder it is in the room, the more the fruits are prone to rotting.
Ventilation	Indoors provide access to clean air at the rate of 5 liters of oxygen per 1 kg of tomatoes and arrange daily ventilation.
Lighting	Being in the light, tomatoes acquire a brighter color. If it is necessary to speed up the process, the fruits are irradiated with a blue lamp every day for 30 minutes.
Humidity	Optimum humidity 80%. Exceeding this indicator leads to spoilage of the tomato. Reduced air humidity adversely affects the peel and taste.

Due to the fact that milk and blanzh tomatoes ripen slowly, the period of their consumption in fresh increases by 2 months.

The main factors affecting the ripening rate are temperature and humidity in the room. By adjusting these indicators, you can slow down or speed up the ripening process.

Tomato storage

Unlike most vegetable crops, tomatoes have a short shelf life. This creates difficulties for gardeners in solving issues related to their storage.

Small-fruited varieties with a thick skin remain fresh for a long time.

Subject to temperature regime good results can be achieved regardless of the variety:

ripe - from 1 to 2 ° C;
blange - from 4 to 6 ° C;
green-ripening - from 10 to 12 ° С.

Tomatoes at the milk stage of maturity, harvested in late autumn, have a particularly long shelf life.

The room and trays are disinfected.
Select whole, unripe fruits.
Each vegetable is wrapped in soft paper.
Boxes with tomatoes are sprinkled with moss, birch sawdust or peat chips.
Tomatoes that are at the milk stage of maturity are laid out in boxes, the bottom of which is covered with a heat-insulating material. Each layer is alternated with polyurethane foam balls, which perfectly retain heat.
When closing, check that the lid of the box does not damage the tomatoes.
Store tomatoes in a cool, well-ventilated area away from sunlight.
Vegetables are regularly sorted and ripened fruits are removed.
Humidity in the room is maintained within 85%.

Some growers store frozen tomatoes in boxes under the snow.

After prolonged storage, tomatoes become sensitive to pathogenic microorganisms. Harmful bacteria mainly infect the vegetable at the point of attachment of the stalk. To prevent decay, you should follow the rules for cutting fruits and storing the crop, as well as adhere to the timing of collection.

Video - When to shoot tomatoes

In most regions of Russia, tomatoes do not have enough heat and sun, so most of the crop has to ripen already at home. Properly ripened tomatoes taste and look no different from those grown and harvested ripe in a greenhouse. They can also be used in salads, for canning and just for eating.

What influences maturation

The most important factors due to which ripening occurs are:

Temperature.
Humidity.
Lighting.

All parameters must be in the optimal zone. So, in order for the color to develop with greater intensity, you need a temperature range from 18 to 26 degrees Celsius. If the goal is to keep tomatoes as long as possible, then you need a temperature of 15 to 18 degrees Celsius.

At low temperatures (below plus 5 degrees), the fruits freeze, lose taste qualities, the pulp becomes friable.

Humidity is important for the ripening of tomatoes. Since tomatoes are very vulnerable to rot, humidity should be low or at least medium (no more than 50%) in the room where they ripen. Drops of water on the skin leads to rotting of the fruit, as a result, even for short span time, the entire crop will be spoiled.

The last factor for fruit ripening is lighting. Just because of the lack of light, the skin has a pale or green color. Therefore, lighting enhances the manifestation of color, and the flesh reaches full ripeness. As with temperature, the rate of fruit ripening can be controlled with the help of lighting. In the absence of sunlight, tomatoes gain color worse than being, for example, on a sunny windowsill.

When to shoot

Tomatoes are afraid of frost, especially for vegetables grown in greenhouse soil. There are frost-resistant varieties, but if the temperature outside drops below zero, even such tomatoes can go bad. All tomatoes must be harvested before frost. Frosts across the country come in different ways: in the northern regions, they can begin as early as August, in the central part - in September. Outdoor and greenhouse tomatoes are harvested for ripening in mid-August in Siberia and the Urals, and in the Moscow region not earlier than September. In the southern region, tomatoes can easily ripen on the bushes even in October, they can not be removed.

Conditions for ripening

Harvested tomatoes can be ripened in an apartment or other room under certain conditions:

A newspaper or paper is placed on the windowsill and tomatoes are laid out on it. Tomatoes should not touch each other. Leave the tomatoes to bask in the sun for a few days. From time to time, the fruits are turned over so that the redness proceeds evenly over the entire skin. After a week, all tomatoes reach maturity, they can be eaten. If ripe tomatoes are left on the windowsill, they begin to deteriorate, so it is better not to overdo it.
The harvested crop of green tomatoes is transferred to a wicker basket, a cardboard box or a wooden box with holes for air access. They cover with gauze or a scarf and leave the vegetables to ripen in a dark, dry place at a temperature of 20-26 degrees.
You can ripen tomatoes in cooler conditions - in the basement, cellar. They are put in boxes, covered with a warm cloth and left in cool room for a few weeks. Every week check the integrity of the fruit. Over time, the vegetables will begin to turn red.

In order for the tomatoes to ripen faster, one red tomato is placed next to the green fruits. He will call chain reaction, and soon all the tomatoes will be ripe.

What Not to Do

The most common mistakes that result in the death of the entire crop are:

Washing tomatoes before ripening and storage.
Collection of diseased tomatoes infected with late blight, dew and other diseases. The ripening of such tomatoes is possible with a small area of the lesion. In this case, the diseased tomato must be kept in boiling water for 1-2 minutes, and then wiped dry with a towel.
Choice wrong place for ripening. It may be too cold a room with high humidity.

When ripening tomatoes at home, follow several useful recommendations:

You should not put another crop next to the tomatoes - zucchini, peppers, cabbage, eggplant, and so on. Tomatoes do not tolerate other vegetables well.
If there is not enough space at home, you can use an interesting method that involves ripening vegetables in plastic bags. They put the tomatoes in a whole bag and tie it up behind upper part to the curtain, horizontal bar, any elevation in the room. The package does not take up much space, and the tomatoes in it will reach a ripe state fairly quickly.
After the tomatoes begin to ripen, the reddest ones are removed, leaving only 1-2 ripe fruits. Ripe tomatoes are cleaned in a cool place, at room temperature they quickly deteriorate.

Ripening - natural process, which is practically no different from greenhouse ripening. It is more extended in time, but is widely used among gardeners to obtain a quality crop. When ripe, you can enjoy fresh tomatoes throughout autumn and even winter.