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Bad weather and cold climatic conditions do not prevent gardeners in all regions of the country from growing tomatoes. Most often in areas with unfavorable climate resort to planting them in greenhouses. But even if for some reason there is no greenhouse on the site, then you can grow tomatoes in open ground, providing them with temporary shelter when temperatures drop.

It is very important to plant tomato seedlings in the ground in a timely manner: if planted too early, then cold ground they can simply freeze and die, and if this process is delayed, the harvest time will come much later. Optimal timing planting tomato seedlings in open ground directly depends on whether protective structures will be used or not.

A temporary shelter is considered a structure that allows you to protect tomato plantings from freezing during sudden short-term drops in air temperature, as well as from damage, for example, by hail.

The most common temporary shelter on summer cottages is a film tunnel that is easy to assemble and disassemble. To install it along the entire length of the planting bed, you need to place metal arcs, stretch film or spunbond over them and secure the covering material on the sides and ends, pressing down with bricks, stones, heavy boards, pipes, etc., so that strong wind it wasn't torn off.

The shelter can be used in the future, for example, in the heat, so that the tomatoes do not burn. Only in this case the film cannot be used - the tomatoes will cook under it, so white non-woven material is pulled over the arcs.

Immediately after planting tomato seedlings in open ground, it is recommended to install a similar shelter for the period of its adaptation. Tomatoes are planted under temporary shelter at the end of May. Such protection will allow them to survive short-term return frosts without loss.

Planting seedless tomatoes with seeds in the ground under cover: video

Some people confuse the concepts of greenhouse and greenhouse, and although the protective material in their designs is the same (film, glass or polycarbonate), they have two significant differences. Firstly, the greenhouse is a low structure (up to 1.3 m), and secondly, its design does not provide for additional heating - a favorable microclimate is created in it by retaining the heat that is released when organic matter (compost or humus) decomposes in the bed .

Planting tomatoes in a greenhouse will allow you to harvest them 2...3 weeks earlier than in unprotected soil. Planting seedlings in such structures in general case carried out from the beginning of May.

Planting tomatoes in a greenhouse: video

If no shelter is provided for planting tomatoes, they can be planted without it, but you should wait until the threat of return frosts is over. In this case, the soil should be heated at a depth of 15 cm to +12 0 C, night temperatures should not fall below +15 0 C, and during the day the desired air temperature is about +20 0 C. In areas with an unfavorable climate, such conditions are observed in the early to middle June, therefore, in order for the crop to ripen on the bushes, early ripening varieties are planted.

In the southern parts of the country with a warm climate, growing tomatoes is not a particular problem: gardeners obtain high varietal yields of this crop by properly planting the seedlings and providing them with care. But in regions with an unfavorable climate, gardeners have to carefully monitor weather reports in order to choose the right moment for planting, and cover in case of bad weather.

In the Moscow region Summer residents begin planting tomatoes in unprotected soil from mid-to-late May.
In the Urals, seedlings are planted in the ground in late May - early June after returning frosts.
In the Leningrad region The timing of planting tomato seedlings is at the beginning of June. It is recommended to plant only early ripening plants in open ground.
In Siberia, it is difficult to accurately predict planting dates: usually they are the same as for the Leningrad region, but sometimes frosts can strike at the beginning of summer, so in this region plantings continue until mid-June. With such a late landing and conditions short summer Only ultra-early ripening varieties of tomatoes are planted in open ground in Siberia.

If tomatoes are planted under temporary shelter or in a greenhouse, then its timing begins 1...1.5 weeks earlier.

Protective structures can be removed when conditions favorable for this arise on the site - the air temperature, even at night, will not drop below +15 0 C. If the weather is good during the day, but at night it is still too cold, then it is recommended to ventilate the tomatoes during the daytime: in the greenhouse - through the windows and doors, and open the film covers from the ends or even throw the protective material to one side (in the evening it is convenient to return it to its original place ).

In outskirts of Moscow. Temporary shelters in the Moscow region are usually left until July, since the beginning of summer in this region is accompanied by constant rains and cold snaps.

In the Urals. The Ural weather in summer is extremely changeable, so plantings are left under cover until mid-July. At the same time, we must not forget about daytime ventilation in good weather, since tomatoes do not tolerate high humidity.

In Siberia. At the end of June, favorable weather in this region will allow you to remove the covers from the tomatoes, but you should not remove them too far. If necessary, temporary shelters are installed back.

A sharp change in environmental conditions when removing a temporary shelter can provoke stressful state seedlings. There are several rules, the implementation of which will greatly facilitate the process of their adaptation:

After removing the cover, the seedlings must be well watered.
You need to remove the shelter in cloudy weather, as they can easily burn in the sun.
By the time the cover is removed, the plants should be hardened off. To do this, they are hardened at the seedling stage, and in the shelter the tomatoes are intensively ventilated, opening both ends of the structure.

If you open temporary shelters taking into account the above nuances and weather conditions in the region, there will be no loss in the number of planted plants.

How to plant tomatoes under temporary shelters

The process of planting tomatoes under cover takes place in several stages.

For more convenient installation of temporary shelter, a two-row tomato planting scheme is used. They can be located opposite each other (ribbon diagram) or in checkerboard pattern. Thus, it is necessary to create a bed up to 1 m wide and dig planting holes so that the distance between them is 25...40 cm, depending on the variety being grown (for bushy determinate varieties, the recommended value is 35...40 cm), row spacing is narrow - about 40 cm If tomatoes are planted in several beds, the distance between them will be about 0.5 m.

If the beds have not been planted since the fall, then immediately before planting, you can add ash and humus to each planting hole, mix with soil and water well.

Tomato planting is carried out in accordance with the chosen scheme. In this case, the seedlings can be buried in order to obtain a powerful root system, but the fruiting period will come later. It is recommended to land in evening time, if the day is sunny, and in rainy, cloudy weather, on the contrary, in the morning.

After the tomato seedlings are in place, they are watered and a temporary shelter is installed: metal arcs are driven in, covering material is pulled over them and secured. Film is most often used for tomatoes after planting. It transmits sunlight well. In the event of sudden cold snaps, thick non-woven white material (number 60) is first pulled over the arc frame, and a film is additionally laid on it.

In the future, during hot weather, temporary shelters are also used to create shade on the tomatoes, but under no circumstances should you use film - the plants will burn! On hot days, spunbond will provide them with protection.

For 4...5 days after planting, the tomatoes are not ventilated or watered. After this adaptation period, care for the seedlings begins in full: systematic watering, timely feeding (the first of which is carried out 1.5 weeks after planting), shaping, etc.

Proper planting of seedlings will allow you to quickly install temporary shelters in the future if necessary.

Novice gardeners, due to the lack of many years of gardening experience, can make mistakes when planting tomatoes in open ground that lead to best case scenario to problems in growing and further caring for the crop; in the worst case, you will have to replace the seedlings with new ones. Below are a number of the most common mistakes when planting tomatoes in unprotected soil.

Premature landing. If you want to plant tomatoes in the ground as soon as possible, you must first check whether the ground has warmed up using an ordinary thermometer. It needs to be placed at a depth of 15 cm in the soil - this is the depth at which the roots of tomatoes lie when planting. If the temperature is below +15 0 C, then it is better to postpone planting. Otherwise, the plantings will get sick and growing tomatoes will turn into constant and difficult resuscitation.
Planting a greenhouse variety in open ground. Before growing seedlings (or purchasing them), you must carefully read the descriptions of the selected variety. It should be intended for planting in open ground. There is no point in trying to plant greenhouse varieties under the open sky - they get sick for a long time, end result They die, and you can forget about the harvest.
Planting a variety with low cold resistance. When choosing a tomato variety for open ground, you should pay attention to its resistance to cold weather. This means that the variety must be zoned - adapted for cultivation in a particular region. There is no point in trying to grow southern varieties of tomatoes in open ground, for example, in the Urals.
Planting in a shaded area. High yields of tomatoes are achieved only when the plants are planted in a sunny, well-lit area. If they are planted in partial shade or even shade, the greenery begins to actively grow, the number of fruits set decreases, and their size becomes smaller.
Condensed planting pattern. Neglecting the recommended distances between seedlings will further lead to disturbances in the illumination and air permeability of the plantings. All this creates favorable conditions for the appearance of rot and other fungal diseases.
Organization of support after planting. Many tomato varieties intended for open ground require support. If stakes are installed for this purpose, they must be driven into the ground immediately before planting the seedlings near the holes. After 5 days, tomatoes can be tied to them. If the support is installed after planting, there is a risk of damaging the roots of the plants.
Neglect of ventilation. If a temporary shelter is not ventilated for a long time, then increased humidity will form inside it, which will certainly provoke the appearance of late blight. This is also facilitated by the lack of ventilation in a permanently closed building.
Applying fresh manure to the garden bed. When planting, fresh manure should not be added to the garden bed or tomato planting holes. Instead, you can use rotted tomatoes; fresh tomatoes burn - white spots appear on them, the same as with sunburn.

Installing and removing temporary shelters, periodically opening them for ventilation - all this slightly complicates the process of planting tomatoes and caring for them, but makes it possible to grow them outdoors in regions with an unfavorable cold climate. During cold weather, hail, heavy rain, or scorching heat, temporary shelter will be a salvation for open-ground tomatoes.

Our capricious but beloved vegetables are growing. But, alas, not everyone knows when to pick tomatoes in a greenhouse and how to do it correctly. You may ask, why know? I picked ripe tomatoes from the bush and it was done.

We do not forget that growing in a greenhouse is different from open ground. While in the garden beds we remove everything by the end of August, in the greenhouse the process is extended. There is more harvest, and the duration of ripening is delayed. Why, in fact, are we installing a greenhouse?

When to pick tomatoes in a greenhouse

There is no specific deadline at all. When to pick tomatoes depends on:

your region of residence, in the Moscow region it will be later than outside the Urals
depending on the variety grown, some large-fruited and late-ripening tomatoes hang until the end of September
depending on the time of planting, and on the quality of care, if normal greenhouse temperature and humidity were maintained, fertilizing was applied, then the tomatoes will begin to bear fruit earlier and longer
from the greenhouse, its covering, of course, in the film greenhouse it will be colder at night and tomatoes will have to be harvested earlier

Greenhouse tomatoes are always harvested a little earlier, not fully ripe, to allow the fruits higher on the cluster to ripen faster.

There are varieties that make it difficult to pick unripe tomatoes; in this case, there will be nothing wrong if they hang on the branches until they are fully ripe.

There is one more time when you need to leave tomatoes in the greenhouse to ripen completely on the bush, this is collecting seeds. Be sure to collect seeds from the variety you like only from fully ripened tomatoes that have been ripening and not ripening in boxes.

Tomatoes picked before they are ripe are easier to transport if they grow in the country, this is a definite advantage.

Do I need to collect green tomatoes in a greenhouse?

At all green tomatoes collected in extreme cases:

When the temperature at night drops below +8 degrees.

When disease epidemics begin due to weather conditions or poor care.

In such cases, if all the fruits on the uppermost clusters have already grown, then all of them are removed without exception.

There is also nothing wrong if the tomatoes are picked green. Sometimes we have to remove them even when they are not at milk maturity; in Siberia, night cold snaps sometimes begin very early.

If you notice signs of late blight on the lower tomatoes, then it is better to immediately start picking the tomatoes, otherwise, instead of ripe, they will begin to turn black and spoil. In order for such tomatoes to ripen well in boxes, you must first sort them out and remove all the fruits with fungal stains. Then immerse each tomato in hot water for a few seconds, and then in cold water, wipe dry and set aside for ripening. Temperature hot water should be 60 degrees.

How to properly harvest tomatoes in a greenhouse

We know that tomatoes do not ripen all at once, but gradually, starting with the lower fruits. They need to be collected just as gradually, first removing the largest and ripest ones, then the rest as they ripen.

In order for the tomatoes to feel good during ripening, in order to ultimately get firm and elastic tomatoes, they need to be removed along with the sepals, then they will not lose moisture.

How to harvest tomatoes for ripening

When the first tomatoes are collected, they need to be placed in some containers, boxes, boxes, preferably in one or two layers, so that it is more convenient to control the ripening process.

Some, if there are a lot of fruits, simply pour them in a separate room directly onto a rag spread on the floor and thus bring the tomatoes “to condition”, gradually selecting the ripe ones for food or canning.

The process of ripening speed can be adjusted; if the room is cool, up to +18 degrees, then the tomatoes will ripen from ten days to two weeks. If you need to get ripe tomatoes faster, then raise the temperature or place them in a warm place, +26, and they will ripen in three to four days.

Advice from grandmothers: To make tomatoes ripen faster, you need to put a ripe red tomato or red apple next to it in the box.

When ripening, we must not forget to inspect the fruits, remove spoiled ones and select ripe ones in a timely manner. Sometimes, due to an oversight, a long-ripened tomato from the bottom row begins to deteriorate and infects nearby tomatoes.

When to pick tomatoes in a greenhouse video

What is pinching a tomato?

In the basement or underground)) The main thing is that it is dry) We are generally under the bed in dark room we store it))) It ripens well there)) In general, there should be following conditions: temperature from 5-15 degrees above zero. And the humidity should be no higher than 80%. In apartments, I know, many people store them in glassed-in loggias...

Leaves

Late-ripening pumpkins (they are also hard-barked) are represented by varieties

When is it necessary to plant tomatoes?

. Harvesting of these varieties usually begins in mid to late August. They are tender, the shell is thin. They ripen quickly and are not stored for longer than a month.

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How to properly pick tomatoes?

Winter garlic should be harvested in dry weather, preferably in the morning. Lightly dig up the bulb with a shovel, then carefully pull it out of the ground, grasping the feathers. Lay it on the ground (or on a special bedding), then start digging out the next bulb. After the entire harvest has been dug up, cover the bulbs with a cotton cloth (this will prevent intense evaporation of moisture and the garlic will not burst during drying), and if the weather permits, then leave the garlic for several days (from three to five days). After some time, transfer the crop to a dry, well-ventilated area, and after a month you can begin trimming the roots and false stems.

Growing a tomato with an indeterminate bush

movements must be fast and precise so as not to damage growing stems or other important organs;

If there is doubt about removing a shoot, it is left to grow; it can later be pinched, completing growth. How to plant tomatoes in a greenhouse with an indeterminate type of bush?

When growing tomatoes, use abundant mineral nutrition to obtain a high yield. At the same time, the tomato begins to produce many additional shoots. This leads to thickening of the planting and a decrease in yield. To regulate growth, pinching tomatoes is used.

And there shouldn’t be any rodents who really like to make their nests in pumpkins.

Growing a tomato with a determinate bush

yellowed, faded or even dried out (at least some of them).

Pearl, Nutmeg, Vita, Intercept, Testi Delipe, Butternut Ponca, Vitamin

Ripening period

after performing an operation on one plant, before moving on to another, it is necessary to dip the instrument blades in a disinfectant solution, for example, 1% bleach or 1% potassium permanganate;

Picking tomatoes in pictures will more clearly show where excess shoots are removed and the formation of a bush.

Depending on their variety, they are formed, leaving one, two, or three main shoots.

How is the pinching operation performed?

In a tomato, a shoot can grow in each leaf axil, starting from the first present one. It is part of the main stem and does not differ from it in the type of growth. Leaves are placed on it, clusters with fruits are laid. These shoots in initial stage growth are called stepsons. If you leave them, the tomato begins to branch and thicken. Ovaries form on the hands of the stepchildren and an overload of fruit occurs. This leads to the crushing of all fruits. One of the stepsons can grow rapidly, begins to lead in relation to others and becomes the main top.

A good addition) And it’s also better to keep away from cats)). There are such mischievous cats who describe all new property that comes into their field of vision))) Grandma’s cat likes to pee in potatoes. In general, you can’t leave it... In general, protect the pumpkins from all kinds of creatures, gentlemen =)))

. Basically, these are muscat varieties, brightly colored, aromatic, with a thick shell and tasty pulp. This pumpkin can be stored for up to six months! Harvesting of late-ripening pumpkins should begin in mid to late September. However, often

is 92-104 days. 3.5 months, roughly speaking.
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An agronomist for every home (training video instructions)
The harvesting time for summer garlic usually falls between mid-August and mid-September. The first signs of ripening: softening of the neck of the bulbs, cessation of feather growth, massive yellowing of their tips, lodging of the stems. All these signs indicate that root system plants are dying, the garlic heads are formed, so wait sunny day and start harvesting. The harvesting technology and preparation for storage are similar to those described above, however, it is worth noting that spring garlic requires more careful handling than winter garlic.
Leave a piece of shoot about 1.5 cm to inhibit the formation of new unnecessary shoots in this place;

Varieties and hybrids with a superdeterminant type of bush branching have their own characteristics in pinching. Currently, varieties of tomatoes without pinching have been developed. If you remove all the extra shoots up to the first cluster, then later you won’t need to shoot them at all. Such tomatoes include, for example, Alaska, White Naliv 241, Vershok, Boni M, Gavrosh, Ground Gribovsky 1180, Moskvich, Raketa, Siberian early ripening, Yamal.

When forming, which includes only one stem, all the stepsons in the leaf axils are removed, leaving only the main shoot with fruiting clusters. In greenhouses, the tomato is gradually lowered and the stem is laid on the surface of the soil, and all the resulting stepsons continue to be removed.

Correct pinching of tomatoes - video tutorial

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To equalize the ratio of green mass and the number of fruits and adjust the load, pinching tomatoes in a greenhouse is used. This is the removal of unnecessary shoots in the leaf axils before they begin to thicken strongly.

Our pumpkin is still aging in the garden)

The pumpkin itself became brighter and more saturated. Depending on the variety, it can be dark orange, yellow or gray-green. We had a pumpkin like this last year: the outside is gray-green, speckled, and the inside is orange. In general, colors and shapes come in very, very different shapes.

ripening period

Mid-season pumpkin varieties include 

You can, of course, leave it until Halloween... But personally, I think that eating a pumpkin is much better than cutting heads out of it and scaring passers-by))). Therefore, it is better to remove this vegetable from the garden on time. But when, tell me, will this “just in time” come?

KakProsto.ru

Complete harvesting of tomatoes in a greenhouse. When to remove tomatoes from the greenhouse

In this video you will see how to properly clean tomato plants from a greenhouse. How to harvest tomato plants if green crops grow nearby.

The cut parts are placed in a container and taken out of the greenhouse so as not to provoke the appearance of infectious diseases from plant residues.
Most determinate varieties grown in open ground are not planted, as this leads to a decrease in yield. Growing tomatoes is most important in greenhouse conditions, because they try to get the maximum yield, recouping the cost of maintaining an expensive structure.

Forming into two or more main stems, the same number of additional shoots are left to grow. They develop into fruiting shoots and become additional stems. The remaining shoots are gradually removed, not allowing them to outgrow.
It is best to remove them before they grow to a length of no more than 5 cm. Until this size, the stepson still slightly pulls towards himself nutrients and removing it does not harm the tomato. If they are harvested later, the tomato is injured and loses productivity.
Nope... we've had it in storage for a long time. Last week there was the first snow. And it's generally cold. They promise warming by mid-October, but it’s still cold like November)

Shell
it is not 120-140 days, but about 200. So what should we do then? Removing unripe pumpkin? Absolutely right! It will ripen perfectly during storage - in 20-60 days it will reach the peak of its ripeness. The pulp will become brighter and so tasty that you can even eat it raw.
Winter sweet, Smile, Kroshka, Hundred-pound, Volga gray, Medicinal, Russian, Canteen winter A-5, Pink Banana, Blue Hubbard
Define right time for cleaning can be done according to two parameters: by timing and by appearance plants. First, let's talk about timing. Suppose we planted a pumpkin in the second half of May (optimal for the middle zone).
Lectures at the "Gardener" club

We will also show you how to set up a green conveyor after harvesting your tomato plants. We'll tell you about a new vegetable crop - daikon, and hold the first autumn harvest of radishes.
Sometimes after pinching, after some time in the place where the shoot was removed, a new one begins to grow. It is formed from a dormant bud that was located in the axil of the leaf. Therefore, we have to remove the stepchildren again.

The most common way to remove shoots is to break them off by hand.
Varieties with a determinate type of bush are more difficult to plant than indeterminate ones. There is always the possibility of removing the desired shoot, which will continue the growth of the entire plant.
The first stepsons can be observed already on the seedlings. Therefore, when planting, they immediately remove all excess shoots, which can still be about 1 cm. This is labor-intensive work, but it will relieve additional stress during maintenance work in the greenhouse.
Thank you

The pumpkins have become denser than before.

When to Harvest a Pumpkin

Naturally, the climate makes its own adjustments to the proposed recommendations. So, in the south, pumpkins are usually kept in the garden for a very long time - until all the foliage dries out. Frosts come late there, so there is no threat. Now let's talk about the appearance of our pumpkin. How do you know when it’s time to pick a berry? ;)

and

Pumpkin ripening time

The first thing to say: there are early-ripening, mid-ripening and late-ripening varieties of pumpkins. Based on this, the cleaning time should be determined.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list... ________________________________________-________________________ Sometimes a new shoot begins to grow at the bottom of the tomato after for a long time, when several brushes have already formed. A shoot also forms from a dormant bud, but before this the stepson may not have formed in this place. This is a varietal feature or the tomato receives too much nutrition, so the appearance of additional stems is stimulated. In order not to overload the plant and not thicken the planting, these stepsons should also be removed in a timely manner. It is advisable to do this while wearing rubber gloves. The operation is carried out in the first half of the day, when the stems are more juicy and the shoots break off easily. The main shoot of a determinate tomato is always completed, i.e. ends growth, forming a brush at the end. If you remove all the stepsons, then the plant will not have a growth tip left. It no longer produces shoots with new fruiting clusters and leaves. The harvest of such a tomato is limited only by previously formed fruits. After planting in the ground in a permanent place, the tomatoes begin to intensively form stepsons. It is necessary to periodically, at least every 6-7 days, go through the rows and remove unnecessary shoots before they begin to outgrow. this was an April 1st joke. I think they will clear up on their own over time

These are the main signs of a ripe pumpkin. I think based on the timing and external signs, you can never go wrong... The dates are written on the packages with seeds, so it’s not difficult to navigate. As you already understand, the pumpkin does not have to be ripe by the time of harvesting. And yet there are certain external signs that make it possible to determine that the harvest time has come. Experienced gardeners may have known this for a long time already, but beginners don’t even ask such questions!)) Estamres Early ripening varieties include:All about greenhouses and cellular polycarbonate Thank you for watching the video and growing the biggest harvest!Garlic has long been famous for its healing properties, which is why in our latitudes it is grown everywhere, especially since the plant is completely unpretentious. There is winter and spring garlic; the harvesting time for the first begins slightly earlier than the second.

Stepson gets squeezed by big and index finger, then it is swayed in opposite directions until it comes off the plant. At the site of breakage appears small wound. By the end of the day, the damaged area dries out and no pathogenic infection can enter it. In order not to delete the necessary stepsons, adhere to the following rules: Stepchildren have to be removed constantly. Planting tomatoes is an important part of the care work in the formation of a tomato. In greenhouses, this operation is carried out even after the fruit collection has begun. How did they throw the tomatoes? By the way, when harvesting, you need to cut off the stalk so that it remains 3-4 cm long. And of course, do not damage the shell, otherwise the pumpkin will not be stored. What varieties of pumpkin do you prefer? And how do you determine its maturity?

A pumpkin ready for harvest looks like this:

. These varieties are suitable for longer storage. Harvesting begins in mid-September, but before frost. If the pumpkin gets frozen, it will affect its shelf life and it will quickly spoil. Thus,

Golosemyannaya, Mozoleevskaya 49, Almond 35, Vesnushka, Biryuchekutskaya 27, Jack o Lantern, Gribovskaya bush

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Harvesting winter garlic Stepchildren can also be cut with a knife or scissors. When using a cutting tool, the following rules must be used:
they are removed no earlier than they have grown by 4-5 cm;The formation of stepchildren in determinate and indeterminate tomato varieties is different. Let us consider in detail the rules for planting tomatoes depending on the type of bush.
Check your computer with this: http://www.freedrweb.com/cureit/?lng=ru or with this: http://support.kaspersky.ru/viruses, change the password and install a good antivirus. Good luck!!! How to store pumpkin?

Peduncle

ripening period

Valery, Maykop (Adygea)

and

Natasha, Russia

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Tatiana

http://www.youtube.com/c/Pomogiogorod...

Irina, Bendery

To understand whether you need to start harvesting winter garlic, you first need to look at the leaves of the plant: if the lower leaves have turned yellow and withered, then the time has come. It is also necessary to look at the ends of the garlic stalks: bursting bulbs-boxes with seeds (gardeners call them bulbs) also indicate that the harvest time has come. In general, it is believed that winter garlic ripens one hundred days after planting, therefore, by making simple calculations, you can establish the expected harvesting time.

Tatiana

blades should be sharpened to a razor sharpness so that cutting damage is minimal;

Julia, Moldova

Before removal begins, the stepson is determined, which will become the main growth shoot;

Tatiana

Indeterminate varieties are characterized by unlimited growth of the main top and all side shoots. If you do not plant such plants, they will quickly take up the entire volume in the greenhouse, and you will not be able to get a high-quality harvest.

Nadezhda Medvedeva

It was an April Fool's joke! She will clean up

Along with potatoes and cucumbers, tomatoes are one of the most popular vegetable crops in the country. Easy to care for, high taste and nutritional quality led to the widespread use of this product. However, there is one significant nuance in its cultivation that affects marketable condition. It's about about the time of harvest. When to pick tomatoes in open ground, and what are the stages of maturity of this vegetable, read on.

The tomato belongs to the perennial plants of the vast nightshade family, numbering about 2000 species. The cultivation of the vegetable began in the Black Sea and Volga regions and gradually covered most geographic zones of Russia, including the north.

There are 5 stages of tomato ripening:

early ripening (green, white);
early (dairy);
mid-season (brown, blanzhevye);
medium late (pink);
late (red).

When determining the ripeness of a tomato, it is important not to confuse green fruits that are ready to eat and unripe green vegetables that are in the process of ripening. The former are suitable for consumption and transportation over long distances. The latter need to ripen. However, even after ripening, their taste will not meet the expectations of gardeners. A vegetable picked too early will never be juicy.

Table 1. Characteristics of tomatoes depending on the stages of ripeness

Stage	Description
Early ripening	The average plant height is 50 cm. The fruits are predominantly small, flat-round, weighing up to 150 g. They are grown both in open ground and in greenhouses. Purpose - salad.
Early	Medium-sized, firm-textured vegetables. Used for preservation.
Mid-season	Soft juicy fruits that do not spoil during transportation. The area around the stalk is colored pink color. The flesh is golden or yellow. Used for culinary purposes.
Mid-late	The height of the stem reaches 1.5 m. Large red fruits have a rich taste. Not suitable for long distance transportation.
Late	Tall varieties growing up to 2 m in height. Up to 40 ovaries are formed in one brush. Productivity reaches 12 kg per bush.

Fruiting period

When planting vegetable crops that bear fruit several times during one season, you should familiarize yourself with the timing of harvesting the first and last harvest. This will prevent the removal of unripe or overripe fruits.

Ripening period:

early ripening - from 60 to 70 days;
early - from 75 to 90;
mid-season - from 85 to 105;
mid-late - from 105 to 120;
late - from 130 to 160 days.

More precise dates depend on the tomato variety, climatic conditions and features of care.

Optimal time for harvesting

Most gardeners prefer to harvest fruits in early August. This desire is dictated by the reluctance to leave vegetables exposed to cold dew, which is destructive to many crops. However, not every variety faces such a danger. By this period, it is recommended to remove only fully ripe vegetables.

With a competent approach, up to 2 kg of early-ripening varieties, 3 kg of mid-ripening and 6 kg of late ripening varieties are harvested from each bush.

For better ripening of tomatoes, it is recommended to carry out following procedure. Finely chop the first green or reddened pepper pods, pour boiling water and leave for 24 hours. Then dilute it in 5 liters of water and pour the resulting solution over the beds.

Special purpose

When harvesting, you should be aware of the further use of vegetables.

Areas of use:

Cooking food. For these purposes, take tomatoes that have reached the red stage (this does not apply to yellow varieties). The most ripe, deep red tomatoes are good as the main ingredient for tomato juice and ketchup.
Canning. Brown vegetables are suitable. They are also suitable for pickling and salting.
Long-term storage. Green fruits are used at the initial stage of ripeness.

Regardless of technical and physiological ripeness, the same variety can be harvested different stages maturation.

Need for pruning

The tomato is considered a capricious heat-loving vegetable. It bears fruit poorly in low light conditions.

In a dense planting pattern, the leaves block access to the sun. This significantly inhibits the development of vegetables and contributes to the rapid withering of the bush. Besides a large number of greenery will drain all the energy from the culture own food, and not to support fruit growth.

General rules for cutting foliage:

Leaves touching the ground are cut off first. This allows light to reach the base of the stem.
Then the first row of the flower brush is released, which prevents the development of pathologies.
Peripheral foliage is also removed.
Leaves that shade other external organs of the plant are thinned out.
Only the strongest stepson is left on the bush. This will concentrate all useful elements in one place. As a rule, it is located under the first inflorescence.
When tying vegetables, cut out all the foliage below the level of the fruit.
At the final stage, the tops are cut off, leaving only a small ligature.
The frequency of pruning is 3 times a week.

Even weekly cleaning of bushes from excess greenery will significantly increase the yield of the beds.

Bringing tomatoes to maturity

Tomato ripening is effective both in sunlight and in dim lighting. Although most gardeners believe that vegetables ripen faster in the light.

Storage conditions	Characteristic
Layout	Fruits are sorted by size and stage of ripeness. Vegetables are laid out in dry, clean boxes in 2 layers no more than 20 cm high. For long-term ripening, they are placed in 1 layer. Every day the fruits are sorted and spoiled ones are thrown away. For better ripening, lay them out with the stalks facing up. If you put several ripe ones in each box of unripe fruits, they will ripen within 1 week. To speed up the process, tomatoes that are starting to ripen are removed from the boxes every day. They will release ethylene, which affects the ripening of other vegetables. To get the most juicy product possible, before frost, tomato bushes are pulled out by the roots and hung on a rope. Outflow of fluid and useful elements from stem to fruit makes vegetables fresher.
Temperature	The optimal temperature regime is from 20 to 24 o C. At 30 o C, vegetables ripen faster, but lose their elasticity. To speed up the process, the temperature is lowered to 18°C, to slow it down - to 10°C. The colder the room, the more susceptible the fruits are to rotting.
Ventilation	The room is provided with access to clean air at the rate of 5 liters of oxygen per 1 kg of tomatoes and daily ventilation is arranged.
Lighting	When exposed to light, tomatoes acquire a brighter color. If it is necessary to speed up the process, the fruits are irradiated every day with a blue lamp for 30 minutes.
Humidity	Optimum humidity 80%. Exceeding this indicator leads to spoilage of the tomato. Low air humidity negatively affects the peel and taste.

Due to the fact that milk and blanc tomatoes ripen slowly, their consumption period is fresh increases by 2 months.

The main factors influencing the speed of ripening are temperature and humidity in the room. By adjusting these indicators, you can slow down or speed up the ripening process.

Storing tomatoes

Unlike most vegetable crops, tomatoes have a short shelf life. This creates difficulties for gardeners when resolving issues related to their storage.

Small-fruited varieties with thick skins remain fresh for a long time.

Subject to temperature regime good results can be achieved regardless of the variety:

ripe - from 1 to 2°C;
blanzhevy - from 4 to 6°C;
green ripe - from 10 to 12°C.

Tomatoes at the milk stage of ripeness, harvested in late autumn, are stored for an especially long time.

The room and trays are disinfected.
Whole, unripe fruits are selected.
Each vegetable is wrapped in soft paper.
Boxes with tomatoes are sprinkled with moss, birch sawdust or peat chips.
Tomatoes that are at the milk stage of ripeness are placed in boxes, the bottom of which is covered with heat-insulating material. Each layer is alternated with polyurethane foam balls, which retain heat well.
When closing, check that the lid of the box does not damage the tomatoes.
Tomatoes are stored in a cool, well-ventilated area away from sunlight.
Vegetables are regularly sorted and ripened fruits are removed.
Indoor air humidity is maintained within 85%.

Some gardeners store frozen tomatoes by placing them in boxes under the snow.

After prolonged storage, tomatoes become sensitive to pathogenic microorganisms. Harmful bacteria primarily infect the vegetable at the attachment point of the stalk. To prevent rotting, you should follow the rules for cutting fruits and storing the crop, as well as adhere to harvest dates.

Video - When to pick tomatoes

In most regions of Russia, tomatoes do not have enough heat and sun, so most of the crop has to be ripened at home. Properly ripe tomatoes taste and look no different from those that were grown and harvested ripe in a greenhouse. They can also be used in salads, for canning, and simply eaten.

What affects ripening

The most important factors responsible for ripening are:

Temperature.
Humidity.
Lighting.

All parameters must be in the optimal zone. So, in order for the color to develop with greater intensity, a temperature range from 18 to 26 degrees Celsius is needed. If the goal is to preserve tomatoes for as long as possible, then you need a temperature of 15 to 18 degrees Celsius.

At low temperatures (below plus 5 degrees), the fruits freeze and lose taste qualities, the pulp becomes loose.

Humidity is important for the ripening of tomatoes. Since tomatoes are very vulnerable to rot, humidity should be low or at least medium (no more than 50%) in the room where they ripen. Drops of water getting on the skin leads to rotting of the fruit, resulting in even short period In time, the entire harvest will be spoiled.

The final factor for fruit ripening is lighting. Just because of the lack of light, the skin is pale or green color. Therefore, lighting enhances the manifestation of color, and the pulp reaches full ripening. As with temperature, you can use lighting to regulate the speed of fruit ripening. In the absence of sunlight, tomatoes gain color worse than if they were, for example, on a sunny windowsill.

When to shoot

Tomatoes are afraid of frost, especially for vegetables grown in greenhouse soil. There are frost-resistant varieties, but if the outside temperature drops below zero, even these tomatoes can spoil. All tomatoes must be harvested before frost. Frosts occur in different ways across the country: in the northern regions they can begin as early as August, in the central part - in September. Street and greenhouse tomatoes are harvested for ripening in mid-August in Siberia and the Urals, and in the Moscow region not earlier than September. In the southern region, tomatoes can easily ripen on the bushes even in October; they do not need to be picked.

Conditions for ripening

Harvested tomatoes can be ripened in an apartment or other room under certain conditions:

Place newspaper or paper on the windowsill and lay out tomatoes on it. The tomatoes should not touch each other. Leave the tomatoes to bask in the sun for several days. From time to time, the fruits are turned over so that the reddening occurs evenly throughout the skin. After a week, all the tomatoes reach maturity and can be eaten. If ripe tomatoes are left on the windowsill, they begin to deteriorate, so it is better not to overexpose them.
The harvested green tomatoes are placed in a wicker basket, cardboard box or wooden box with holes for air access. Cover with gauze or a scarf and leave the vegetables to ripen in a dark, dry place at a temperature of 20-26 degrees.
You can ripen tomatoes in cooler conditions - in the basement, cellar. They are put in boxes, covered with a warm cloth and left in cool room for a few weeks. The integrity of the fruit is checked every week. Over time, the vegetables will begin to turn red.

In order for the tomatoes to ripen faster, add one red tomato to the green fruits. He will call chain reaction, and soon all the tomatoes will be ripe.

What not to do

The most common mistakes that result in the destruction of the entire crop are:

Washing tomatoes before ripening and storing.
Collection of diseased tomatoes infected with late blight, mildew and other diseases. The ripening of such tomatoes is possible with a small affected area. In this case, the diseased tomato must be kept in boiling water for 1-2 minutes, and then wiped dry with a towel.
Choice wrong place for ripening. It may be a very cold room with a lot of humidity.

When ripening tomatoes at home, follow several useful recommendations:

You should not put another crop next to tomatoes - zucchini, peppers, cabbage, eggplant, and so on. Tomatoes do not tolerate other vegetables well.
If you don’t have enough space at home, you can use an interesting method that involves ripening vegetables in plastic bags. Place the tomatoes in a whole bag and tie it up top part to the curtain, horizontal bar, any height in the room. The bag does not take up much space, and the tomatoes in it will reach a ripe state quite quickly.
After the tomatoes begin to ripen, the reddest ones are removed, leaving only 1-2 ripe fruits. Ripe tomatoes are placed in a cool place; at room temperature they quickly deteriorate.

Ripening - natural process, which is practically no different from greenhouse ripening. It is more extended in time, but is widely used among gardeners to obtain a high-quality harvest. When ripe you can enjoy fresh tomatoes throughout the fall and even winter.