"cancer necks", "crow's feet" and "duck noses". The composition of all Russian sweets and bars - "Rot Front", "Korovka", "Chamomile", "Red October", "Korkunov" and other manufacturers. What additives are usually used

Caramel "Goose paws" is known to almost everyone: these sweets come from childhood and were sold back in the USSR. More than one manufacturer makes "Goose paws", but I will tell you about my favorite sweets from Kazakhstan produced by JSC "Rakhat".

Joint stock company "Rakhat" is one of the largest manufacturers of confectionery products in Kazakhstan, leading its history for 70 years.

Sweets are wrapped in funny candy wrappers depicting cartoon goslings. By the way, it's still a mystery to me: why are they called "Houndstooth"? I don't see any connection between candy and goose limbs at all.

The caramel itself is light brown in color. You don't have to worry about the safety of your teeth! The caramel just crumbles when bitten, and it's not hard at all. The filling is made on the basis of vegetable fat and contains cocoa and chopped nuts.

100g of the product contains:
Proteins 1.8 g
Fat 9.8 g
Carbs 85.0 g
Energy value 421 kcal

The composition of caramels, of course, is not without dye and flavor, but it contains grated almonds. So that's why these sweets are so tasty!

Ingredients: sugar, molasses, grated almonds, cocoa mass, vegetable fat, emulsifier - soy lecithin; vanilla flavoring - identical to natural; food coloring E122.

You can buy "Houndstooth" by weight in many stores.

The first time I heard this: everyone who at least once in his life ate caramel "Cancer necks" can consider himself attached to the royal meal.

These sweets, and together with them "Goose paws" and "Duck noses", were the signature product of Alexei Abrikosov's confectionery factories. In Soviet times, factories were nationalized, signs were changed, but the most popular sweets retained their recipe and even their names. And Abrikosov was, by the way, the supplier of the Court of His Imperial Majesty. Although, most likely, another signature apricot treat, glazed fruits, was served at the imperial table as a dessert.

Alexey Ivanovich Abrikosov.

The factory trade association "A.I. Abrikosov Sons" competed with another well-known confectionery company - "Einem". A German subject, Ferdinand Einem, arrived in Moscow in 1850 and made his first capital by supplying sawn sugar to the army during the Crimean War. In peacetime, he took up the confectionery industry. Against the background of the mechanized production of the Einem firms, Aleksey Abrikosov looked like a lone handicraftsman. Abrikosov acquired the first steam generator with a capacity of 12 horsepower for his confectionery production only in 1873, and before that everything was done by hand in his workshop.
However, after only ten years, Abrikosov outperformed his competitors, bringing his annual turnover to 1.8 million rubles, opening several factories, a network of his own stores and wholesale depots. Abrikosov's branded stores were located on Tverskaya and Nevsky prospects, Khreshchatyk and Deribasovskaya.

In addition to the notorious Cancer Neck caramel invented by Abrikosov, they sold Duck Nose for Cough, Liliput and Tsarsky marmalade, sweets for balls and weddings, coffee, cocoa, curly pies, cakes, gingerbread, cookies, biscuits, jam, marshmallows of different varieties, with apple and rowan being especially popular. Abrikosov did not spare money for advertising his product. On the new, 1880th, year, a message appeared in the newspapers of Moscow that only blondes work as saleswomen in one Abrikosov store, and only brunettes in another. The townsfolk, already accustomed to the fact that the "chocolate king" always comes up with something, went to check if it was really so. Naturally, while they were looking closely, they seized their interest with the famous Abrikosov sweets.
I must say, Abrikosov was very attentive to the wrappers-clothes of sweets - candy wrappers. Usually they depicted beautiful women, children or animals.

Everyone knew Abrikosov's cute hares, squirrels, ducks and herons. "Goose feet", "Duck noses", "Cancerous necks" - all these are sweets with a hundred-year history.
A special theme on candy labels is historical. On wrappers one could see the victorious battles of the Russian army, for example, in the Patriotic War of 1812. They could even study history.

Even a series of "ethnographic chocolate" was produced, on the labels and inserts of which were depicted residents of various regions of Russia and the world in national clothes.

As mentioned, promotional inserts were also issued. Colorful posters with smiling children offering sweets, marshmallows and chocolates, inserts in boxes of sweets with riddles and puzzles in Christmas and Easter sets were used. There were even whole series of inserts and labels dedicated to famous artists, figures of culture and science.

The partnership has twice won the All-Russian art and industrial exhibitions in Moscow. These cards are one of the first examples of the use of children's photographs in advertising, because children are the main consumers of all kinds of sweets, and the joy with which they showed memorable dates in the history of the enterprise made their parents associate their memories of a happy childhood with the Abrikosov factory.
People then kept colorful postcards and boxes for a long time and, therefore, kept in their house a kind of advertisement for once eaten chocolate miracles.

To win the competitive war, Alexei Ivanovich was preparing a "secret weapon" - fruits glazed with chocolate. It was an overseas French delicacy whose recipe was jealously guarded. Abrikosov swung at the "holy". We had to start production. For glazing, special fruits were needed, grown where there is a lot of sun and relatively low humidity. Crimea was the ideal place. It was there that Aleksey Abrikosov decided to build a plant, especially since in 1874 the railway came to Simferopol.
All the details of the operation, which was carried out by Alexei Abrikosov, were so thought out that the competitors did not suspect anything for a long time, and when they saw the light, it was already too late. Alexey Ivanovich officially handed over the Moscow factory to his eldest sons, Nikolai and Ivan. Meeting familiar merchants, he shrugged his shoulders - he had already lived on earth for half a century, it would be time to know the honor. To justify his long absences from Moscow, Abrikosov spread a rumor that he intended to engage in the tea trade, and he was going to carry it from China itself. By the way, Abrikosov's biographers now seriously assure that he really carried tea from China. But this is not so - Abrikosov bought tea in London, preferring Ceylon.
And finally, Alexei Ivanovich acquired a small estate in the Crimea. Allegedly, in order to, in old age, surrounded by children and grandchildren, take a break from the labors of the righteous. The estate, however, was not by the sea - Abrikosov complained that he could not afford the land on the coast. And it was in Simferopol. The place, I must say, was so-so. Abrikosov's son Dmitry recalled: "In the fall, my father took the family to the Crimea, to Simferopol. I vaguely remember trees covered with apricots and a small river full of bathing gypsies."

But the location for the plant was chosen very well. The entire floodplain of the Salgir at that time was covered with orchards where first-class fruits grew. Nearby was the Petrovsky fountain with clean spring water, for which no money was taken. Finally, cheap labor was at hand: if at the Moscow factory of Abrikosov the workers were paid 45 rubles a month, and the working day was 10 hours, then in Simferopol people worked 12 hours, receiving no more than 15 rubles a month. But the Crimeans were incredibly happy about this. In addition, at Abrikosov's factories, tenfold discounts on products were provided for personnel. The Crimea was also good because, closer to the summer, crowds of seasonal workers from the nearest provinces flocked here. Seasonal labor exchanges have long existed on the peninsula. For Abrikosov, seasonal labor was very useful - from April to October, the Simferopol factory worked around the clock.
The factory has two steam generators, two canning and labeling machines with a capacity of more than 3,000 cans per day. From France, a specialist was discharged for a lot of money, who knew the technology for the production of glazed fruits. It was they who brought Alexei Abrikosov not only wide popularity throughout the Russian Empire, but also increased his capital - from each kilogram of glazed products (peaches, cherries, walnuts, lemons, tangerines, oranges, melons and watermelons, which were not inferior in size to Astrakhan !) he had about a ruble of net profit (by today's standards - about $20). And everything went into business - non-standard fruits went on mashed potatoes, which served as raw materials for the production of jams, marmalade and marshmallows at a Moscow factory.

The conspiracy bore fruit - Ferdinand Einem came to his senses only when Alexei Abrikosov's delicious, in no way inferior to French glazed fruits flooded the market. They went wild. In 1884, Einem also built a factory in Simferopol, and not far from Abrikosovskaya, and also mastered the production of glazed fruits, but time was lost. He so dreamed of achieving the honorary title of "supplier of the court of His Imperial Majesty", but his competitor was ahead of him - Alexei Abrikosov received this title in 1899, and Einem - 13 years later. Not bad, because, for example, Nikolai Shustov, a manufacturer of famous cognacs, has been waiting for this for 38 years.

In fairness, it must be said that in 1900, at the world exhibition in Paris, the chocolate of the Russian company "Einem" received the Grand Prix. Aleksey Abrikosov also claimed this prize, presenting glazed fruits from the Crimea at the exhibition. However, the French preferred chocolate - they could not admit that the Crimean glazed fruits are not inferior to those made in France. Meanwhile, according to the public, the Crimean ones even surpassed them.

How the Partnership "A.I. Abrikosov Sons" began

The founder of the dynasty was a serf from the village of Troitsky, Penza province, named Stepan, nicknamed Obrokosov, i.e. quitrent. At the beginning of the 19th century, he and his family received freedom and founded a handicraft confectionery production in Moscow, becoming Abrikosov.
After the death of the founder of the dynasty, the confectionery workshop was inherited by his eldest son Ivan, who annually indicated in the book of declared capitals of Semyonovskaya Sloboda a considerable amount of 8 thousand rubles at that time. In 1824 his son Alexei was born. Everything was going great until, in 1841, Ivan, together with his brother Vasily, went bankrupt, and all their property was sold for debts.
17-year-old Alexei, without finishing his studies at a commercial school, was forced to work as a messenger in the German confectionery company Hoffmann. For six years, the young man not only learned German, but also made a brilliant career, becoming the chief accountant of this company. In 1847 Alexei Abrikosov opened his "pastry shop in the city". Two years later, he married a girl with an unusual name, even for that time, Agrippina. She was the daughter of the famous perfume and tobacco manufacturer Musatov. A dowry of 5,000 rubles went to the purchase of machines for grating almonds and pressing monpensier. In addition, a horse was purchased, on which Alexey rode daily to the Bolotny Bazaar, meticulously choosing fruits and berries.

In 1872, the production of the "candy" workshop of Alexei Abrikosov amounted to 512 tons of products worth 325 thousand rubles. With the turnover of "Einem" it was still incomparable, But, as time has shown, the future was with Abrikosov. Aleksey Ivanovich Abrikosov himself, the "chocolate and candy king", was awarded the title of hereditary honorary citizen in 1870, and in 1879 he was awarded the title of commerce adviser, awarded the orders of St. Anna and St. Stanislav 2nd degree. In 1896, he was awarded the rank of real state councilor, which gave the right to hereditary nobility.

The Abrikosov couple raised 17 children. In total, 22 were born to them, but five died in infancy. Then the infant mortality was very high, but it was Abrikosov's wife, Agrippina Alexandrovna, who did a lot to reduce it. At least where she could contribute to this: at the Moscow confectionery factory, she created a free kindergarten and a "maternity hospital", where the best obstetricians in Russia were gathered.
During the year, more than two hundred women in childbirth passed through the shelter, and infant mortality and pathologies accounted for only one percent here. After the death of Agrippina Alexandrovna, in 1901 the orphanage was transferred to the city and received the name of its founder. In the Soviet years, it was Maternity Hospital No. 6 named after Krupskaya. In 1994, the name of A.A. was returned to the famous maternity hospital. Apricot.

Aleksey Ivanovich himself spared nothing for his family and business, but he was reluctant to donate to charitable foundations. However, he readily supported commercial schools and, in general, was very fond of bringing capable young people into people, lending money to novice merchants and manufacturers and helping them with advice. In addition, until his death in 1904, he was the head of the parish of the most famous Moscow church - the Assumption Church on Pokrovka (the church was not preserved - it was destroyed in 1936)

Among the natives of the Abrikosov family, there was no one who would discredit the good name of the family. However, apart from Ivan Abrikosov, none of them showed any interest in the confectionery business. For example, Nikolai Abrikosov, a graduate of the Faculty of Physics and Mathematics at Moscow University, was on the board of directors of the partnership, but spent most of his time in the laboratory. After the death of his father, he completely left for Paris, where he lectured at the Sorbonne, and translated Tagore at his leisure. Alexei Abrikosov, Jr., after the revolution, became a world-famous scientist, doctor of medical sciences and a full member of the USSR Academy of Sciences. Grandson, Khrisanf Nikolaevich Abrikosov, in his youth was the personal secretary of Leo Tolstoy; another grandson, Alexei Ivanovich, became an outstanding pathologist, embalmed Lenin's body; great-grandson, Andrei Abrikosov - a famous actor. Although in fairness it must be said that the heirs would not have been able to continue the business - in 1918 the Moscow factory was nationalized, giving it the name of Peter Babaev. However, for a few more years on the labels of products after the words "Factory named after the worker P.A. Babaev" in brackets was indicated: "former Abrikosov". The old trademark, which guaranteed quality, helped to retain the buyer.

Special thanks to Irina Torgashova ( nezyaika ) for a post with examples of Russian advertising before 1917 - I was very interested in "Duck" noses!
It's true, I don't know what it is.

The history of goose paws sweets begins at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries at the Abrikosov factory. In those days, sweets were named according to the same principles as now: either poetically, or cheerfully, or in accordance with their taste and properties. The phrase seems too strange for candy, and strange things always give rise to legends. Here are the most popular ones. Do not rush to believe them: each sounds very plausible, but the truth is only one.

The legend of goose fat

Sweets "Goose paws" are caramel stuffed with thick nut paste. In addition to nuts, it should include fat so that the consistency is soft and melting. Usually these are solid vegetable oils, but earlier goose fat was added instead of them, which made the filling especially thick and airy. That's why the candy was called "Crow's feet".

The legend of medicinal herbs

The first caramel sweets were cough drops with herbal extracts. Filled caramel continued this tradition, in particular, the composition of the nut paste in the “Goose paws” included an extract of goose cinquefoil, which has been used to treat throat diseases since ancient times. Popularly called "crow's foot" or "caterpillar", it has an astringent effect and helps fight inflammation. The creamy structure of the filling helps to soften the throat, and the caramel itself stimulates sucking movements, which improves blood circulation in the tissues of the larynx and reduces swelling. Over time, the herbal extract from the composition disappeared, leaving the original name as a legacy.

Another pharmacy legend

Crow's feet were invented as candy for flat feet and were originally sold only in pharmacies. The name appeared because of the special gait of children suffering from flat feet: they spank their legs like geese, especially when they run. The composition of sweets included special medicinal ingredients, and sweetness was needed so that children would not refuse to be treated.

Legend of likeness

Houndstooth was one of the first caramel candies with cocoa. Their ribbed pinkish-brown surface resembled the legs of geese in their appearance, so the factory did not think about the name for a long time. Bright and unusual, it immediately attracted the attention of buyers, so that the sweets sold with a bang. Unfolding, many were surprised and exclaimed: “Really, like crow's feet!”

Legend of Abrikosov's cunning

Aleksey Ivanovich knew well the price of a bright and unusual presentation of sweets: the competition between his factory and the Einem partnership forced him to invent new ways to attract a buyer. How to stand out? What to surprise? Come up with a ridiculous and defiant name for sweets. Houndstooth is charming, funny and intriguing, so Apricot stores drew crowds of people who wanted to buy these strange and delicious candies.

The legend of fashionable ornament

"Crow's feet" is a colorful pattern on the fabric, consisting of cells with broken edges. At the end of the 19th century, it was very popular among Russian fashionistas, and the Abrikosov factory decided to use this motif. The relief that the conveyor left on the sweets was very reminiscent of a popular pattern, so they decided to support it with a name in order to attract fashionistas and increase the popularity of patterned sweets. Later, the technology changed, caramel began to be produced with a striped relief, but the name was preserved.

The legend of "goose slippers"

Soft inside, hard and smooth outside, sprinkled with granulated sugar mixed with cocoa - this is how the famous sweets once looked. Just like the paws of geese, which were driven to the market under their own power. So that along the way they would not injure their delicate paws, the birds were first driven through warm resin, and then along the sand - something like a sole was obtained. The resin did not stick to the road due to the sand; by the time it arrived at the market, it was practically erased, leaving the paws of the geese unharmed. Having once seen such a “shod” flock, Aleksey Ivanovich thought that it was possible to create such candies that would be tender inside, and outside - hard, like hardened resin, and crispy, like fine sand. This is how the idea came up to "whip" the caramel, creating the thinnest sugar layers in it, which would crumble on the teeth with an appetizing sandy crunch. Grated nuts with butter and sugar were added inside the layered candy, and the name was given in honor of the inspiration birds.

Drumroll

After almost believing each of the folk legends, it's time to uncover the truth. The name was really invented by Aleksey Abrikosov himself, but the point here is not at all about medicinal herbs, a fabric pattern, or the tricks of goose drivers.

Caramel at the factory was blown with a special tube, filled with stuffing and cut with a huge hot knife. The sweets turned out to be flattened, similar to the beak of a duck. Initially, they were called “Duck Noses”. For what reason they turned into "Crow's feet", history is silent, perhaps this name seemed to Alexei Ivanovich more cute and attractive than "Duck noses".

Be that as it may, there are no medicinal herbs or goose fat in these sweets and there was not, only crispy layered caramel and delicate creamy nut filling. Enjoy your favorite Houndstooth and save the wrapper just in case: thanks to the mysterious and original name, they are especially prized among collectors.