How to teach a puppy to sit. Teaching the “Sit” command: standards and methods

So that your puppy can fulfill basic requests, obey, and you can curb his activity, you need to train him from childhood. Then he will be able not only to overcome the barrier or bring a stick, but to serve or walk not on a leash, but on his own. How to teach a dog commands at home, and how to quickly teach basic requirements, you ask. But this is quite real, it is enough to get a little advice from experienced dog handlers, watch training videos and clearly follow the rules that we will mention below.

Why does a dog need to know commands?

It is necessary to train commands in order for the pet to exist normally with other animals and people, especially for and. Although without education they can grow up no less aggressive and uncontrollable. Training is also necessary in order to correct behavior, eradicate bad habits, develop the natural instincts of the animal.

Can an adult dog be trained? It is possible, but much more difficult, so it is better to start classes from the age of six months, although they are carried out in a playful way. The process will go much faster, as puppies are more active and love to learn new things.

But before starting classes, you need to consider the following points:

  • the nature and habits of the pet;
  • set priorities;
  • do not retreat from classes, make them permanent;
  • praise and encourage the puppy, make the exercises more interesting;
  • distinguish between work and play moments.

It is also important to take into account the fact that exercises do not need to be arranged after lunch or dinner, but training should be carried out only on an empty stomach.

Basic commands

What commands do you need to learn?

Basic commands:

  • near;
  • lie;
  • sit;
  • give paw;
  • it is forbidden;
  • stranger;
  • stand;
  • bring;
  • walk.

These exercises will be needed in order to develop mobility, agility and quick wits and obedience.

But commands such as spin, barrier, somersault, die, search and bring are considered quite complex, not all dogs perform them, and only at a more mature age. For this, the pet must be encouraged with food and repeated classes constantly.

Team "voice" especially useful for those dogs that are used for hunting, guarding the house or in the process of searching for people. But initially you need to take into account that some breeds will not be able to learn at all and make a loud bark, and Labradors and Shepherds learn the fastest.

  • tie the dog near the tree and step on the leash;
  • do not let your pet jump on you when he sees food;
  • ask to vote and show a yummy;
  • encourage the pet after the command;
  • repeat the exercise two or three times.

It is important not to encourage the animal if it barks and barks without command, otherwise the exercise will not be remembered correctly.

Lie

"down" command can also come in handy in everyday life, especially if you travel a lot with your pet or often go to visit. Training begins at three months, simultaneously with the “sit” command. If the command is correctly executed, give a treat, and if there is no reaction, press on the withers.

Easy, for this you need:

  • go to a quiet place, even outside. But there should be no dampness and snow on the ground;
  • press on the withers and back, saying "lie";
  • at this time, you need to show the yummy in the other hand at ground level;
  • after following the instructions, release the animal with the words to walk.

Remember that training can take up to a year, but it should take place without rudeness, gradually becoming more difficult. If at first the pet is trained at home, then later, on the street or in a public place. And do not expect that the first time the dog will be able to lie on the ground for a long time.

Near

How to teach your dog the "next" command almost everyone knows, but not everyone knows how to do it right. Training begins at six months, when the pet is already accustomed to walking on a leash. Note that the exercise is considered the most difficult and is remembered for a year.

It is important that the puppy is on your left side and walks beside you until you let him go for a walk.

You need to start training like this:

  • take the dog on a leash and bring it as close to you as possible;
  • say "near" and lead the pet near you for a few steps;
  • then let go and say "walk";
  • give a treat as a reward;
  • then call the puppy and repeat the exercise a few more times;
  • each time you need to loosen the tension on the leash and let the dog go free more and more.

It must be remembered that if the command is not followed, it is enough to pull the leash closer to you and repeat the exercise.

face

Fas Team is considered one of the most difficult and dangerous, but training should begin from three months of life, when the pet has weaned from the mother.

Remember that a pet spoiled by attention and affection may not follow your commands or do it with stubbornness. Therefore, try to pamper him less, and be more strict.

How to teach a dog the “face” command, we will describe below.

For this you need:

  • find a closed area on the street without people;
  • put on a protective suit;
  • find props in the form of sticks, tires, stuffed animals;
  • then tie the dog on a leash and sit next to it;
  • then tease the pet with the chosen object and speak face;
  • each time it will annoy more, and the dog will rush;
  • reward the dog with a treat after the command is completed.

Sit

Before describing how to teach a dog "sit" command Let's highlight a few important points. For example, learning starts from early childhood, from three to five months. To perform the exercises, use the method of encouragement and punishment - press on the sacrum when not doing it and give a treat when doing it.

The training scheme is as follows:

  • call your pet to you;
  • call him by name, say "sit" and press on the sacrum;
  • hold the dog in that position for a few seconds, and then give a treat;
  • complete the exercise with the words walk;
  • repeat the exercise every five to seven minutes.

give paw

How to teach a dog command "give paw" a dog handler can tell, but this is easy to teach at home. Then the pet, at your request, will give you its paw.

The exercise is carried out like this:

  • sit the dog next to you;
  • call by name and say "give paw";
  • point to a paw and show a treat in your hand;
  • take the paw in your hands;
  • repeat the command several times and after execution, give the yummy.

Few people know, but you need to start training the team from six to eight months, and decorative breeds are trained the worst.

How to teach your dog the fu and not commands

Team "fu" considered one of the most important, similar to command "no", because it makes the dog refuse your things or some items. It will be useful on the street, at a party or at home. How to teach a dog a command "ugh" And "it is forbidden"?

Simple enough:

  • show or give the pet a forbidden thing;
  • point to it or take it in your hand and say "fu, you can't";
  • pick up the item and repeat the command;
  • make sure that the pet gives the thing himself and does not take it without your permission;
  • give a treat as a reward.

Keep in mind that you need to start the exercise at the moment when the puppy has decided to perform an action, but has not yet done anything wrong. Talk to him only looking into his eyes.

Aport

Team "Aport" can be trained quickly, although some breeds have difficulty. The exercise implies that the puppy returns the thing that the owner threw, then the dog sits next to him and waits for further instructions. Training begins from the eighth month of life, after the commands “sit and beside”. How to teach a dog the “fetch” command, we will consider together:

  • find a stick or bone;
  • show it to the dog, tease a little;
  • throw a thing and say fetch;
  • let the animal run after the thing and return it to you;
  • praise and give a treat;
  • repeat the exercises three to five times.

Place

This command must be taught to both an adult and a small pet. Although there are two types, when the dog lies down in its place in the house or near the specified object. How to teach a dog command "place"? Simple enough, all you need to do is lure the puppy with a treat or point your finger there, saying “place”. Upon completion, the dog is encouraged. And in order for the dog to stay in place longer, throw his favorite toy there.

It is also important that when returning from a place without a command, you need to return the pet there, pointing your finger there, saying in a menacing voice.

Stranger

Before deciding how to train a dog team "foreign", we determine that it is important for many pets, as it notifies that an unknown person with bad intentions is in front of them. Then the dog should give a voice, growl or go to the side.

For training you need:

  • find an assistant who will attack you;
  • then look at the animal and repeat the command "stranger";
  • repeat this for five to seven minutes;
  • after the pet approaches you and starts to growl or bark, praise.

Stand

"Stand" command you need to teach from the age of seven to nine months, after mastering the basic exercises. For training, a contrasting method of reward and punishment is used. The command is necessary in order for the animal to obey you while bathing, combing or doctor's examination. How do you teach your dog the "stand" command?

Learning together:

  • bring your pet to you;
  • push him under his stomach so that he gets up and listens to you;
  • as a reward, give a treat;
  • if the dog lies down, lift it by the coat;
  • combine command with words "walk".

Bring

Bring command has much in common with "fetch", but in this case it is not necessary to throw a thing.

To complete the exercise you will have to:

  • sit the pet next to you;
  • point to a thing and say bring;
  • if necessary, come up and hold the thing in your hands;
  • show a yummy, sit down and repeat the instruction again;
  • after accomplishment, encourage.

Search

The search command especially important for hunting and guard dogs, bloodhounds. She is taught from a year of life, after the exercises "fetch, sit, alien and fu."

The training is carried out as follows:

  • take a certain thing;
  • let the dog sniff it;
  • hide a thing;
  • give a command "search", repeat several times;
  • if the dog chooses the wrong thing, say "ugh", and repeat "seek well";
  • after finding, repeat the exercise and praise the animal.

Interestingly, you need to start learning by looking for a thing with your smell, then complicate it and force someone else to look for a thing.

Serve

"serve" command also called "bunny", and it is easier for small pets to perform it. Because it will be more difficult for the big ones to keep the body with a straight back.

It is not difficult to train, for this:

  • invite a puppy to you;
  • pick up a tasty treat;
  • raise your hand with the treat above the dog's head and say "serve";
  • after the pet lifts its front paws off the floor, reward it;
  • each time, force yourself to rise higher and hold the position longer.

Wait

Education command "wait" implies that the pet will remain motionless until you allow it to leave. Training begins at nine months, using a contrast method with rewards and punishments.

The training is carried out as follows:

  • call your pet;
  • seat him or lay him down by pressing on the sacrum;
  • Tell "wait" and hold with your hand;
  • show a treat
  • after a couple of minutes, give the treat and say "walk";
  • repeat the exercise several times.

Few people know, but team training begins at home, and only after a couple of months of classes, you can transfer classes to a noisy street.

walk

Team "walk" most necessary for pets used in the security or detective service. Most often used after the execution of other commands, as a reward. For training, it is enough to pat the animal on the back, let go and say "walk".

somersault

Education team "somersault" not difficult, if the puppy already knows how to lie on his back, the exercise is very similar to "die" command.

To perform it is necessary:

  • put the dog on its back;
  • show a treat, give it a sniff;
  • hold a yummy along the ridge;
  • do not let the dog get up;
  • it is important that the dog follows the food and smoothly turns on its side;
  • and this is repeated several times.

start exercise "die" It is possible from any age, even with an adult dog. To do this, it is enough to fill up the pet on its back or give it the appropriate command, take a treat in your hand and let it smell. After that, hold your hand with food to the side, further along the ridge. When the animal falls on its side, give the reward.

Barrier

Exercise "barrier" must be performed after a year of life, and then your pet will learn to overcome obstacles. It is important that the first height is no more than 45 cm, even for a large breed.

The training is carried out as follows:

  • find a small horizontal bar, obstacle or rope;
  • stand on the other side and show the puppy a treat;
  • beckon him and call to you;
  • after the dog jumps over, give a reward.

Not everyone knows, but even a hoop, a living barrier made of a person, can be used for training. But each time the load should increase, putting several barriers in a row.

spin around

Exercise "turn around" it looks like a somersault, because the technique is the same. In this case, you need to lay the puppy on its back, show a treat, run your hand along the ridge. After the dog falls on its side and rolls over, repeat the manipulation. When the dog has made several turns, give the reward.

snake

Train "snake" it will be easy if the puppy already knows how to perform "eight". The exercise itself implies that the owner goes forward, and the dog passes between his legs.

The training method is as follows:

  • say "close" and seat the pet near the left leg;
  • show yummy;
  • take a step forward and show the food to the dog;
  • wait for the dog to take a step;
  • then take a step with the other foot and again show the food;
  • after the first five steps and following the commands, give the reward.

It is important that you do not move quickly and give food not in one step, but in full fulfillment of the conditions of the exercise.

High five

Exercise "high five" suitable for large and small breeds, the point is that the pet brings both paws to your hands on command.

It's easy to do this:

  • show yummy;
  • raise your hands and bring them to the animal;
  • say "high five" and wait for a reaction;
  • after completing, give the food.

For the first time, it is enough for the dog to simply bring his paw to your palms..

If you want to train and educate your dogs, it is important to understand that miracles do not happen and no best cynologist can do this job for you. Training is hard work that requires patience and perseverance from the owner. If you want the dog to listen to you, and not to the dog handler, you will have to be directly involved in the work with the animal and do it regularly. To save your money, we have developed a video course on training, which you can use absolutely free of charge by subscribing to our YouTube channel. Make it a rule that on each walk you devote part of the time to working with your pet. It is worth contacting a cynologist for paid help when something does not work out for you.

How to teach a puppy to sit

The sit command is usually the first command a puppy is taught. This is largely due to the fact that the puppy himself suggests this exercise, sitting down in front of the owner and looking up at the person. Due to the fact that the puppy naturally sits in front of a person in certain situations, its owners have the illusion that the puppy understands this command very well and will always follow it. It doesn't even occur to puppy owners to think and separate the significance of the "sit" command from the situational factors that prompt the puppy to sit. When the situation changes and the puppy is affected by other factors in different circumstances, it suddenly turns out that the puppy does not "want" to carry out this command. It becomes clear that even the command to sit must be worked out correctly. The principles and stages of teaching a puppy the "sit" command are approximately the same as when teaching an adult dog. Another thing is that when training a puppy, preference should be given to more positive ways of working than when training an adult naughty dog.

How to teach your dog to sit

If you take any book on training, then there will be described how to plant a dog. All of them are based on the fact that the dog must raise his head up and lower his butt to the ground. The dog's head is raised with food, a collar or a hand under the jaw. As a result of such an impact, the dog either sits down, or she has to help with additional pressure by pressing on the lower back or croup. This impact is done simultaneously with raising the dog's head. Accordingly, there are several ways to seat the dog:

  1. Raise the food above the dog's head and give it away when the dog sits;
  2. Raise the food above the dog's head and at the same time hold it by the leash so that the dog does not move back as soon as the dog sits down to give food and praise;
  3. Raise the food above the dog's head and at the same time press on the lower back, after the dog sits down to give food;
  4. Pull the dog by the collar up and forward as soon as the dog sits down to praise and give food;
  5. Pull the dog by the collar up and forward and at the same time pressing on the croup of the dog to move it to the front legs, as soon as the dog sits down to praise and give food;
  6. Pull the dog by the collar up and back and at the same time press on the lower back as soon as the dog sits down to praise and give food;
  7. Raise the dog's muzzle with your hand under the jaw and at the same time pressing on the lower back move the dog's head back to the hind legs, after the dog sits down to give food;
  8. Raise the dog's muzzle with your hand under the jaw and at the same time pressing the dog's croup to move it to the front legs, as soon as the dog sits down to praise and give food;
  9. Instead of pressing on the lower back, you can press-hook the dog under the knee, combining this effect with raising the food above the dog's head;
  10. Instead of pressing on the lower back, you can press-hook the dog under the knee, combining this effect with raising the dog's muzzle with your hand under the jaw, as soon as the dog sits down to praise and give food;
  11. Instead of pressing on the lower back, you can press-hook the dog under the knee, combining this effect with pulling the dog up and back by the collar;
  12. Instead of pressing on the lower back, you can press-hook the dog under the knee, combining this effect with pulling the dog up by the collar, and in this case, you need to move the dog's rear forward.

It is quite difficult to understand the small details and differences between these methods from a sheet without practice. However, for the sake of clarity, I list them in order. The very initial principle of teaching the dog the “sit” command is quite simple. It is necessary to pronounce the command, plant the dog and give her food. When the trainer knows all these methods, then already in the process of seating the dog, he can change them by seating the dog a little differently, focusing on the situation and expediency. If you are not fluent in these methods, it is necessary to work in one way, because you are not only teaching the dog, but also learning yourself. How to become an expert in seating dogs and freely change the ways of sitting in the process of training? To do this, you do not need to cram and learn in practice all these methods of sitting down. Everything is much easier. You need to know the two main mistakes of sitting the dog and not make them.

The two biggest dog sitting mistakes

Note that when the dog is standing, the distance between the front legs and the hind legs is greater than the same distance when the dog is sitting. This is a very important circumstance that must be clearly understood. If you work with food, a collar, a hand under the jaw so that the front legs remain in one place, then lowering the dog's backside down, you must simultaneously move the dog's backside towards the front legs. If you are working with food, collar, hand under the jaw so that the front legs move towards the hind legs, then you need to lower the dog's butt clearly down. The main mistake is when the dog is torn apart by pressing the lower back down and pulling the collar up. When the dog sits down from a standing position, the dog's spine instead of a horizontal position is approximately 45% diagonal. If the back of the dog goes straight down and the head goes straight up, then the dog's spine should become longer, which is naturally impossible. Discomfort in this situation leads to the fact that the dog refuses to sit down and resists. The second major mistake is when the front of the dog is pushed back up and the rear of the dog is pushed too far forward down. In this case, the trainer, as it were, crumples the dog, which is also unpleasant for her. In this case, the dog sits unevenly, collapses on the thigh or sags backward on its hind legs. The dog in this case simply gives his spine more space and space, but in another way, the dog's spine, being unable to contract, forces the dog to sit unevenly. To avoid these mistakes, you need to know them and take them into account when seating the dog. After some training, you will easily be able to work correctly.

Clicker training

All of the above seating methods are combinations of commands and stimulating the dog to execute the command, that is, stimulating the dog to sit and rewarding after the dog has sat down. There is training on a different principle, this is a combination of spontaneous performance of the desired action and rewarding. That is, the dog sits down by itself and immediately receives a reward. After a while, the dog begins to understand that sitting down is a way to get a person to give food or throw a ball. As a result, the dog begins to sit very often when it needs something from a person. This is followed by the second stage of training. Explaining to the dog that seating is rewarded only when commanded by a human, spontaneous seating without a “sit” command is not prohibited, but discouraged. This method involves accustoming the dog to a positive conditioned signal, a marker. As such a marker, use a clicker or any short, clear word.

Why do you need a clicker and how to use it. If you reward your dog every time it sits, the dog will sit more often. This is in theory, but in practice, it is technically difficult to do. When the handler begins to fetch food or prepares to throw a ball, the dog breaks the sitting position. As a result, the dog receives a reward at the moment when he does not perform the desired action, but violates it. To solve this practical difficulty, a clicker is used. First, a clicker-reward relationship is developed. The clicker becomes a conditional positive signal. After that, it becomes possible to reward the dog with a clicker or other positive marker. At the same time, the value of the clicker is necessarily confirmed every time. After the dog has heard the clicker, it must be given a real reward so that the clicker-food connection is not extinguished and the value of the clicker is not lost. A clicker is for a dog what money is for a person. When we receive a salary, we understand that we can easily turn money into real values ​​and pleasures. If, for some reason, it is impossible to buy anything with money, then they become just paper and garbage that cannot stimulate us to work.

Sitting the dog is only the first step in teaching the sit command.

Seating the dog and teaching the sit command are not the same thing. Everything discussed above relates to how to sit the dog and how to reward him for sitting, so that the anticipation of the reward stimulates the dog in the future to comply with the command to sit. But this is the most basic level and this information is not enough to teach the dog how to properly execute the “sit” command. In addition to the initial seating of the dog, it is necessary to achieve the dog's execution of the command to sit from various positions, at different distances from the trainer. Before analyzing the stages of training, it is useful to understand the criteria for assessing the performance of the “sit” command by the dog.

Training competitions, special requirements for the "sit" command

Ideally, the dog should follow the command quickly, clearly, reliably in different circumstances. In addition, if you intend to take your dog to competitions, there are additional requirements for the shrinking technique. At competitions, the "sit" command is checked in the complex together with the "down" and "stand" commands. The dog must change position several times at the command of the trainer, who at this time is at a distance from the dog. The dog, as a rule, wants to approach its owner, which is an additional difficulty. In order for the dog to work in one place without moving forward, the trainer must teach the dog the correct technique for performing the entire complex of commands (sit, lie down, stand). There are two options for the dog in this exercise. With fixed front legs and fixed hind legs. If the dog is preparing for the competition, then this is very important. If you sit for the everyday execution of the command, then this is not so important.

Steps for learning to sit

Training the dog to sit is a gradual process. The complexity of the exercises is constantly increasing.

  1. Initial seating of the dog in any way, search and selection of a method suitable for a particular dog;
  2. Sitting the dog in the correct even position;
  3. Teaching the dog to follow the “sit” command using different influences. Three main options. Only feed, feed and mechanics, only mechanics. Each option has its own value and expediency for training and raising a dog;
  4. Standing exercise in a sitting position;
  5. Training attention to the trainer during exposure;
  6. Working out the ligaments to stand-sit and lie down to sit with the consolidation of the correct execution technique;
  7. Working out the speed of submission to training influences when executing the command to sit near the trainer from standing, lying and moving positions using influences after the command;
  8. Further development of the command to sit with the natural loss of the influence of the trainer on the dog. The dog must willingly follow the command in order to avoid unpleasant influences, and in order to receive a reward;
  9. Training the execution of the command to sit with variable rewards for the dog, that is, not for each execution. Initially, to accustom to such a reinforcement regimen and later to use this regimen to reinforce better performance of the “sit” command;
  10. Execution of the “sit” command in various positions of the dog relative to the person. Starting position, frontal position, main position on the left, main position on the right and some others;
  11. Teaching in a frontal position to a gesture, training the execution of the “sit” command given by voice, voice and gesture, gesture;
  12. Teaching a dog to follow a command at a distance from the trainer. First, the command is given at a distance from the dog, and after that the trainer immediately approaches the dog for influence;
  13. Teaching a dog to execute a command at a distance from the trainer according to a different scheme. The trainer gives the command, the dog executes the “sit” command, and after that the trainer approaches the dog for a reward;
  14. Work at a distance with a variable reinforcement regimen, and further training in various conditions and circumstances. Normative registration of checking the skill of performing the command to sit.

Each stage of training has its own rules and basic mistakes that greatly affect the speed of the dog's learning. It makes sense to move to the next stage after the previous one has been mastered. However, this does not mean that it is not necessary to continue to work through the previous stages of training, it is still useful to repeat and develop them. Separately, it must be said about the use of the gesture command.

Command to sit with a gesture when training a puppy

Usually, already during the initial training of the puppy, the owners raise their hand with food above him, standing in front of him in a frontal position. This raising of the hand is both a way to sit the puppy and accustom the puppy to follow the “sit” command by gesture. Thus, learning to gesture occurs at the very beginning of training and is therefore well fixed. In practice, however, such training leads to a number of problems that come out much later, when we are already training the dog to persistently achieve the clarity of the “sit” command.

The main problems of such training

The owner of the dog does not share the command and influence on the dog in order to stimulate the dog to fulfill the command. The main scheme of work is giving a command, then stimulation and reward after the dog correctly responded to the impact and carried out the command. At the initial stage, the dog does not so much carry out the command as correctly responds to the impact. Only as a result of the training time the need for influence decreases, and the dog begins to execute the command, and not to respond to the influence. Difficulties appear when the puppy grows up and begins to show independence and activity in his behavior. Owners who initially taught the puppy to sit using a high raise of the arm above the puppy's head begin to look rather odd when they try to run in front of an ignoring dog and raise their hand in its field of view. The dog turns away, and the owner again runs to take a new position, so that the dog sees him. In this case, the owner of the dog needs to realize the difference between the impact on the dog and the command, in order to reinforce the command not with the command, but with the real impact on the dog. In fact, primary children's education, due to non-observance of the stages of working out the "sit" command, becomes useless, since you have to start everything from the very beginning.

A more detailed analysis of the stages of teaching a dog the “sit” command

Initial seating of the dog in any way, search and selection of a method suitable for a particular dog

First you need to plant the dog in any way, praise, feed, reassure if she is afraid or, on the contrary, play with her after she obeyed and managed to plant her. At this stage, it doesn't matter how the dog sits. She falls on her thigh or sits evenly, sat down quickly or slowly, sat down on her front or hind legs. Most importantly, the dog sat down and received the award.

If the dog is active and fidgety, such as a Risen or a Doberman, then there may be difficulties with sitting down. If the dog is calm and kind like the Bernese Mountain Dog or St. Bernard, then usually such dogs do not resist the use of mechanical action with the hands. However, a young male St. Bernard or Bernese Mountain Dog with little walk may resist being seated with his hands.

Dogs can be divided not only by the level of activity. There is also a criterion of muscle tone associated with trust and submission to a person. There are dogs that are soft, pliable to mechanical action (sculpting with hands) and dogs that are tense and resistant can be distinguished. As an example of a soft dog, you can bring the Golden Retriever to tense Dobermans and Ridgebacks. Muscle tension depends not only on the activity of the dog. For example, the Ridgeback cannot be called a very active dog. At least he is no more active than a Golden Retriever or a Labrador. But the willingness to obey a person, to agree with coercion, is much lower in a Ridgeback.

Much depends on the food reaction and trust in the person. The more the dog needs food, the easier it will sit down when exposed only to food, and if necessary, with the help of mechanics, it is easier to distract it with food from the fact that it is forced into submission by hands.

A tired dog will sit down easier and more willingly than an active dog at the beginning of a walk.

With a dog aggressive to a person, most likely you will have to work only with food, even if this food is not really needed for her.

In general, as in teaching other commands, food response, trust in the trainer, and general habit of submission are very important. If the work is based on the operant, then instead of the habit of submission, the ability of the dog to actively seek food in different ways and the ability to form a connection between action and reward will be more important. Usually, the initial seating of the dog is not difficult for its owner. Dogs easily sit down for food, although sometimes assistance with their hands is required.

Seating the dog in the correct position

As the dog and the person master the skill of sitting down, the process becomes easier for both of them. The actions of the trainer become more accurate, economical without unnecessary movements and efforts. The dog, understanding what the person requires of it, and the fact that it still has to sit down by itself, sits down faster. If the training goes only with the use of food and without the use of coercion, then in this case the dog, trying to get food faster, begins to sit down faster. The lack of resistance of the dog and the more precise actions that the trainer has learned allow me to move on to the next stage. Sitting the dog on its hind legs without blockages is not a very difficult task. If the dog does not have problems with the musculoskeletal system, then the dog is very easy to level with food.

Teaching a dog to follow a sit command using different influences

Three main options. Only feed, feed and mechanics, only mechanics. Each option has its own value and expediency for training and raising a dog. Working solely through the use of food increases the activity of the dog and a positive attitude towards this exercise. Seating by the synchronous action of food and mechanics trains the dog to submit to coercion without fear and resistance. Sitting only through mechanics reinforces the dog's submission and prepares it for situations when, when practicing the “sit” command, the dog will have to be seated only through coercion, since its food is not interesting in some situations. This situation often occurs when a trainable dog overreacts to another dog in group sessions and refuses to eat.

Sitting posture training

Sustaining in a static position is the basis of discipline and control of the dog. The first exercise in which the dog encounters restraint is the "sit" command. If you teach your dog a good hold on the “sit” command, then other similar holds will be easily practiced in the dog. If the dog has a very strong hold on the “sit” command, then the training of the hold in the lie and stand position is greatly facilitated and accelerated. Moreover, this exercise has a positive effect on the execution of non-static commands. If the dog sits well with distractions, then it will be much easier for the dog to go to the place on command or walk next to the owner past these factors. The extract can be divided by criteria. Time, distance, distracting environment, provoking the dog to make a mistake in the actions of the trainer. It is necessary to start with exposure for a while, without leaving the dog. This is the easiest exercise. It is important to ensure that the trainer does not stand in a tense position near the dog, but can calmly get food, give it to the dog, stroke the dog and move around it a little. After that, you can begin to train endurance at a distance.

There are two basic principles for teaching a dog initial exposure:

  1. The dog must learn a simple rule, if it breaks the restraint, then the trainer will force it to sit down. If she sits quietly, then the trainer will give food;
  2. Another option is to simply sit down on food all the time and feed only in the "sit" position. If the dog is not distracted, wants to eat and quickly forms associative links, then this method works and allows you to work on one humanism. If the dog is very distracted, resists and does not really want to eat, then this method is unproductive.

Training attention to the trainer during exposure

As soon as the dog has learned to stand in the front position, it is advisable to start practicing attention to the trainer. It is very good if in the future the dog can look at the trainer without being distracted while executing the set of commands “sit, lie down, stand”. It helps to work properly. Any distraction knocks down the clarity, speed and correct execution technique. This practice of attention is well known. The usual reinforcement of the dog for looking at the handler. First, this is done by orienting the dog with food, then through conditioned reinforcement and giving food, but without orienting the dog with food.

A bunch of sit down commands

For faster assimilation of the correct technique for performing the "sit" command from different positions, it is better to divide the sit-lie and sit-stand ligaments into two separate exercises. First, the dog sits and lies down many times, receiving food for the correct actions, and then sits and gets up many times, also receiving food for the correct execution of commands. The dog inside the binding must work with either front or hind legs constantly immobile. If the dog lies down from the sitting position during laying down, throwing his front paws forward, and when he sits down again, pulls his hind legs to the front ones, then the dog’s technique and habit of moving forward during the complex is fixed. Lack of promotion is important primarily for sports dogs and for dogs who are trying to teach the "correct" work. If the dog is trained on the principle of minimum effort and minimum exercise requirements, then it is possible to allow the dog to advance during the complex. Just keep in mind that if the dog, in principle, moves a little in a calm state, then when it is excited, it will advance on the complex for a long distance and may simply run to the owner, interrupting the exercise.

A bunch of commands sit stand

It is very important that the sit-stand connection and the sit-down connection are performed by the dog in the same technique. Or permanently immobile front legs or permanently immobile hind legs. Only in this case the dog will not advance on the complex. The task of separate training of ligaments is the formation and training of the correct unambiguous execution technique. At this stage, the trainer wants the dog not only to execute the "Sit" command, but to perform the command technically correctly.

Variable Reinforcement Mode

Training the execution of the command to sit with variable rewards for the dog, that is, not for each execution. Initially, to accustom to such a reinforcement regimen and later to use this regimen to reinforce better execution of the “sit” command.

Speed ​​run

Only after the technique of executing the “sit” command has been chosen and developed, does it make sense and be able to work on speed. Why do you need the speed of execution of any command? A dog that clearly understands what and how to do after the “sit” command, does not feel the desire to conflict with a person, is not distracted by extraneous factors, and has a desire to receive a reward from a person, works quickly. A dog that does not understand well what to do and how, does not seek to earn a reward, is not ready to obey the trainer, is interested in the environment, has a bunch of his own plans for the next five minutes, works slowly. The speed of execution directly depends on the absence of internal and external conflicts between various motivations. The dog is refined, cleared of extraneous motivations and conflicts, aimed at getting the reward as soon as possible and seeking to avoid correction does not think and does not evaluate, it simply quickly executes the “sit” command. Speed ​​can only be gained by coercion, or by encouragement there is nothing else. Either the dog must seek the reward and therefore work quickly, or the dog must seek to avoid correction, i.e. must seek to get ahead of the correction. It would seem that everything is simple, but then there are nuances. As they say, what is good for a Russian is death for a German. Surely the converse is also true. When we apply some means of influence-stimulation to a dog, it is not only important in itself, but also how the dog perceives it and how the dog responds to it. And it already depends on the previous experience of a particular dog. Let's analyze reward-bait and correction-coercion separately. Let's start with the positive. At first glance, it seems that the hungrier the dog, the better and faster it will work. However, it's not just pure hunger. Experience is very important - the dog's experience in performing small simple exercises for small pieces of food. That is, the dog must be ready for multiple repetitions of simple patterned single actions. The dog must be trained to work in a variable mode. Not having received a reward for a simple single action, the dog should not lose heart, not be distracted and not depressed from disappointment, but actively and persistently repeat the exercise again. Only in this case, it becomes possible not only to lure the dog to work with food, but also by rewarding a faster exercise and not rewarding a slow one, effectively explain to the dog that you are interested in a faster execution of the “sit” command. Let's move on to correction-coercion. If you start forcing a dog that has not been trained to actively obey the correction, then most likely, instead of accelerating, you will get resistance and clamping, which will only slow down the “sit” command. That is why we have already identified the stage - training the dog to perform the “sit” command using different influences. Pointing food develops activity and perseverance, the “feed + mechanic” synchronism teaches not to be afraid of mechanics, mechanics and the reward of food after submission, this is accustoming to active submission.

Loss of impacts-stimulations by food and mechanics after the command

The ultimate goal of our training is the dog's execution of the command without stimulation-guidance with food and without compulsion with correction. The dog must work simply on command. The question is why it happens and how to get it. There is such a concept introduced by Anokhin, "leading reflection". One of the principles of the work of GNI is the prediction and preparation for an event that will happen after some time. Such prediction and preparation are naturally possible only on the basis of previous experience. From a philosophical point of view, the anticipatory reflection of reality is a property of any living matter. But we will not climb into these jungles. We are still talking about dogs. The trainer, always and immediately, after the “sit” command, pulls the dog with the leash up and presses its lower back, the dog, having experienced discomfort from these actions, sits down in response to them, gets rid of unpleasant influences and receives a reward. If such a sequential chain of events is reproduced regularly, then the dog, on command “sit”, predicting the subsequent jerk of the leash up and pressing the hand on the lower back, sits down before the person produces these unpleasant effects. And this is quite logical. If a couple of times after the builder's cry "Beware!" a brick falls on top of you, then for the third time you will jump to the side without waiting for the brick to fall on your head. This is what is called "anticipatory reflection of reality." The same applies to positive stimulation. If, after the message “the salary was brought,” a huge line is built at the enterprise for money, then a reasonable person, realizing that the salary was brought, will try to run first and take the queue at the very beginning in order to get the money faster. Similarly, a hungry dog ​​that needs food, knowing that at the “sit” command the food will appear at a certain point in space, will try to sit down faster and raise its head to the stern. If, moreover, at the same time, she knows that the faster she sits down, the faster she gets food, then the dog will be ahead of the actual appearance of food. But all this works if we put in the memory of the dog a standard, unambiguous and repeatable chain of events. As a rule, this does not happen. The owner of the dog really wants to see how the dog without food and coercion sits down on the “sit” command. Therefore, he periodically experiments, checks, and whether the dog has learned to work without stimulation by influences after the command. As a result, the owner gives the dog the experience of the variability and unpredictability of reality. The dog must receive a large package of experience, which contains many of the same type of chains of the same events. Repetition statistics convince the dog of the expediency of anticipatory prediction and proactive action, that is, the execution of the "sit" command before the actual actions from the trainer. Demonstrating to the dog in the experiment that sometimes after the “sit” command she has to sit down, and sometimes after the “sit” command no one sits her down and she manages not to fulfill the owner’s command, leads to the fact that the “sit” command will not be a guideline for her, by which she predicts events. That is, according to which she predicts the expediency of sitting down in order to avoid trouble and receive a reward. Main conclusion. The cancellation of influences is carried out mainly not by the trainer, but by the dog itself. Have the patience to properly combine command with influences. If the dog does not try to get ahead of the impact and does not start working only on one command, then this means that either you do not have patience, or the dog is very distracted, or the dog does not respond to the impact itself by correctly performing the “sit” command. These are two separate topics. Achieve a good response to the impact and correctly combine the command and the impact, so that after a while the command replaces the impact. If the dog sits badly in response to the stimulation, then no matter how you combine the “sit” command and the stimulation that sits the dog down will not have the desired result. If the command replaces an insignificant influence for the dog, then the command will be insignificant, that is, poorly executed.

Execution of the “sit” command in various positions of the dog relative to the person

The main positions of the dog relative to the person are the initial position, the frontal position, the main position on the left, the main position on the right, and some others. The dog should not be embarrassed by different positions, respectively, it is necessary to train the execution of the “sit” command, regardless of how the dog is located relative to the trainer.

Command sit gesture how to teach correctly

Teaching in a frontal position to a gesture, training the execution of the “sit” command given by voice, voice and gesture, gesture. Teaching a dog to obey the sit command is based on two mechanisms.

  1. A combination of an already worked out command to sit and a gesture (development of a second-order conditioned reflex);
  2. Change (reduction) of the real impact on the dog into the initial movement, which in its development can still turn into an impact if the dog does not follow the command.

In practice, there are both of these mechanisms for teaching the dog to perform the “sit” command at the gesture of the trainer.

Teaching a dog to follow a command at a distance from the trainer

To proceed to work at this stage, it is necessary that the dog obeys the command to sit near the handler well. It is highly desirable that the dog is already following the “Sit” command without any influence from the handler. That is, the dog must know well and execute the command at a close distance from the trainer. After that, you can start working remotely. The general initial principle is that the command is given at a distance from the dog, and after that the trainer immediately approaches the dog for influence. You need to start with a distance of one or two steps. The handler must fully utter the command and immediately after that step towards the dog and force him to sit if he does not have time to sit down before he steps towards him. After the dog sits, praise it and give it food. There are two main variations of this exercise. The “sit” command, as part of the complex at a distance, and the “sit” command, which is given to a dog that is in a free state not far from the trainer. In any case, this exercise requires the dog to perform this exercise on command without any influences near the handler. In this case, if the dog did not follow the command at a distance, the trainer steps up to the dog, and the dog finds himself in a familiar situation in which he already easily fulfills this command. He said the command, quickly jumped up to the dog, made him perform, rewarded. The task of such repetitions is to convince the dog that there is no difference between the situation when the trainer says the command "sit" near the dog and when he says the command from a distance. After the dog begins to confidently work at a distance of 1-2 steps, you can increase the distance. During the lesson, you need to change the distance at which the dog works. Sometimes command next to the dog, sometimes at a distance of 1-2 steps, and sometimes 3-4 steps. Constantly it is necessary to approach the dog and stimulate the rapid execution of the command. This is where one of the main mistakes lies in teaching the “sit” command, in fact, the same as when teaching the “lie down” and “stand” commands. If the trainer is too lazy to approach the dog every time and develop the significance of the sit command, that is, to confirm the reliability and justification of the connection “command to sit – an influence that stimulates the dog to sit down”. That is the destruction of this associative connection. The dog understands that it does not always make sense to sit down on the “sit” command. The dog begins to become attached to a complex signal consisting of several stimuli. For example, the command "sit" and the second signal approach of the trainer to the dog. Or the "sit" command and taking the leash, or the "sit" command and the trainer's brutal facial expression. To form a reliable execution of the command, the command must be confirmed as many times as necessary for the dog in order to make sure that the command is inevitable. When a dog is convinced of the ambiguity of the "sit" command, it will not perform this command consistently. True, we have another mechanism for training a dog. Not through the Pavlovian connection between command and action, but through the operant connection between sitting down and receiving a reward.

Teaching a dog to execute a command at a distance from the trainer according to a different scheme

And when executing the “sit” command near the trainer and when teaching the execution of a command given at a distance from the dog, it is permissible to shift the emphasis not to forcing the dog to act, but to rewarding the dog for the action already performed. It looks like this. The trainer gives the command, the dog executes the "sit" command, and after that the trainer approaches the dog for a reward. If the dog does not follow the command, then the trainer does not approach the dog and does not force the command to be executed, he simply does not give the dog a reward. The work is not done and therefore there is no salary. After some time, the trainer again gives the command if the dog has fulfilled it, then the trainer rewards it, if it has not fulfilled, then the trainer again ignores the dog. To work in this way, the dog must be very interested in the food or toy. When receiving a reward, she should experience an explosion of positive sensations, and the absence of a reward after the dog did not follow the command should be some kind of punishment for her. That is, if you want to work with only positive reinforcement, then this is only possible if the dog is very motivated to receive it.

Work at a distance with a variable reinforcement schedule

After the dog has learned to follow the command to sit at a distance safely and correctly, it is necessary to move on to variable rewards. When should this be done? When in training a dog there comes a situation in which, after giving the command, it is no longer necessary to approach the dog and force it to sit down. The dog almost always sits on its own, only on command, so the trainer comes up to the dog to give it food or a toy. To get rid of constant approaches, the trainer sometimes does not reward the dog with food for the execution of the “sit” command, but simply praises and says “walk” or gives the commands “stand”, “lie down”. It is important not to confuse the variable mode of rewarding the dog with the lack of reward if the dog did not follow the command. First, the dog always receives a reward for the correct execution of the command, the absence of a reward is information for the dog that it is doing something wrong. When the dog has already learned to work correctly and steadily, we sometimes skip the reward in order for the dog to develop endurance in work and the ability to work for a long time without encouragement. Gradually skipping the reward becomes more frequent and eventually the dog works with almost no reward. Naturally, when a dog very often works without a good reward, the quality of the command to sit deteriorates, which is completely natural and normal. The system of conditioned reflexes is mobile and can both be developed and rebuilt. That is why sport dogs are kept in constant training and regularly encouraged in training. This is done in order to maintain high speed and accuracy of command execution.

Further training in various conditions and circumstances

Once the dog has learned to obey the command to sit under normal circumstances, you can work on complicating the conditions and situations in which the dog must obey the command "sit". The general principle, as in any training, is from simple to complex. Since the further complication of the work is not prescribed in the regulations, you can come up with any situations so that the dog can physically perform the complicated exercises. For example, you can work in the water or throw a ball to the dog and stop it halfway with the “sit” command, blindfold the dog and leave it for exposure in the sitting position, etc.

Normative registration of checking the skill of executing the command to sit

At competitions or trials, the command to sit is checked in the complex of commands "sit", "down", "stand" and is included, as part of the exercise, in the verification of the commands "near", "place", "fetch", the dog must also sit down in front of launch on any obstacle. In all these exercises, it is necessary to carefully work out the accuracy and correctness of sitting down on command or without the “sit” command, if this is prescribed in the test standard. The complex must be trained with a preliminary approach to the work area on the “near” command and with leaving on the “near” command from this working area after the complex of commands “sit”, “lie down”, “stand” is completed. And another important point, even if the dog is accustomed to perform a complex with motionless hind legs, when moving nearby, you need to teach the dog to sit down with motionless front legs at a stop. In this case, when testing the "moving side by side" skill, the dog easily maintains the correct position both when moving and at a stop. The same goes for the front call. If the dog can only sit back, then no matter how tightly it runs up to the trainer during the frontal call, it will still be too far from the trainer after landing on its hind legs.

I hope that this article will help you to teach your dog such a simple and important command as the “sit” command more correctly and effectively.

An old version of this article can be found.

This skill is necessary because the sitting position is the starting position for practicing many skills, it is included in a number of other, more complex ones, and is often used when working with a dog.

Conditioned stimuli in the development of this skill are the command "Sit!" and a gesture - a quick raising of the right hand forward slightly above shoulder level (palm forward). Unconditioned stimuli are a treat, pressure on the croup and a slight jerk by the leash.

The development of the skill begins after the initial practice of techniques on the command “Near!” and "To me!". A skill can be developed in two ways: 1) taste-promoting (with the help of treats); 2) contrasting (by pressing on the dog's croup and jerking the leash, followed by a reward with a treat). The choice of method depends on the individual characteristics of the dog. So, the 1st method is more often used when training young dogs, dogs with a predominant food reaction, excessively vicious dogs (for fear of biting when pressing on the croup and jerking the leash). Usually, the 2nd method is used, since the developed skill in this case turns out to be more stable.

1st way. The dog is on a short leash, the trainer holds it in his left hand 20-25 cm from the collar. In the right hand, the trainer takes a treat and stands to the right of the dog. Having uttered her nickname, after a short pause, he gives the command “Sit?” in commanding intonation, brings a hand with a delicacy to the dog's muzzle, allowing him to sniff it, and then smoothly raises his hand above the dog's head and takes it slightly back towards the withers. The dog, trying to get a treat, raises its head, reaches for it, and since the leash keeps it from jumping, it throws back its head and begins to sit down. Seeing that the dog began to sit down, the trainer again gives the command "Sit!" and, as soon as the dog sits, immediately rewards him with a treat, stroking and exclaiming "Good!".

2- th way. The dog stands near the handler's left leg on a short leash. The handler turns to her half-turn, puts his left leg half a step away and takes the leash in his right hand 10-15 cm from the collar. Having given the command “Sit!” in a commanding intonation, he puts his left hand on the area between the lower back and the croup (palm down, thumb towards him) and presses on it, forcing the dog to sit down. At the same time, with his right hand, he pulls the leash up and back.

As soon as the dog sits, the trainer, repeating the command “Sit!”, Encourages him with a treat, stroking and exclamation “Good!”. After holding the dog in a sitting position for 5-10 seconds, the trainer gives the command "Walk!", and then repeats the exercise after 3-5 minutes.

After the dog has developed the initial skill for the command, the exercise is complicated - they begin to teach the dog to sit not next to the trainer, but at a distance from him. To do this, the trainer stands in front of the dog facing her and makes her sit down on command. Gradually, the distance between the trainer and the dog increases and is brought up to 15 m. At the same time, the trainer must carefully monitor the behavior of the dog, and for this, move away from it at first backing away and only later in the usual way. If, when the trainer leaves, the dog tries to get up and follow him, then the command “Sit!” is immediately given loudly and in a threatening intonation. In the event that the dog nevertheless got up and goes to the trainer, they quickly approach it, give the command “Sit!” in a sharp, threatening intonation, seat it in its original place and reinforce the command by pressing on the back and jerking the leash. Simultaneously with the increase in the departure of the trainer, the time the dog is kept in a sitting position is also increased and brought to 5 minutes.

Then they work out the landing of the dog by gesture. To do this, the trainer, moving away from the standing dog for 2-3 steps, gives a gesture, accompanying him with the command "Sit!" Gradually, the command after the gesture is delayed more and more, and, finally, the command is applied only when the dog does not sit down with only one gesture. Landing a dog by a gesture is fixed with a treat, stroking, exclamation "Good!".

Some dogs have a hard time learning to sit by gesture. In this case, do so. The handler moves away from the standing dog for two steps, having first turned the collar with the ring attached to the short leash down, and turns to face it. Taking the leash in his left hand and slightly pulling it, he, with a movement of his right hand from bottom to top, as well as when giving a gesture, hits the leash, at the same time giving the command “Sit!”. After a second exposure, the right hand is lowered, a step forward is taken and the dog is encouraged.

To strengthen the skill of landing, its improvement, the following complications should be used: the trainer moves away from the sitting dog in different directions at distances of up to 15-20 m; bring the exposure time of the dog in a sitting position to 5-8 minutes; move away from the dog at different paces (walk, run); give the command "Sit!" or a gesture at various positions of the dog (when it stands, lies, moves); increase the number and strength of various distracting stimuli. At the same time, it is necessary to carefully monitor the correct position of the dog during landing (the position of the croup, paws, etc.). All these elements of complexity are first introduced when the dog is on a leash.

The skill is considered to be developed if the dog sits down clearly, quickly and without fail from any position and under any conditions at the first command or gesture of the trainer, being at a distance of up to 15 m from him, and maintains this position until the next command with a delay of up to 5 minutes.

When practicing this technique, the following basic mistakes of the trainer are possible:

  1. Inept use of an elongated leash when leaving the dog (causing pain);
  2. Inability to take into account the type of dog's behavior, especially when working out endurance;
  3. Untimely correction of errors in the position taken by the dog during landing;
  4. Repeated repetition of the command until exposure to an unconditioned stimulus.

Some owners are sure that the dog does not need to be taught commands if it does not take part in competitions and exhibitions. But this is a fundamentally wrong position. A well-mannered and obedient pet is not only a reason to be proud, but also an opportunity not to experience problems with behavior during a walk or in other situations. This is true not only for representatives of large or fighting breeds, but also for decorative dogs, which can also cause a lot of trouble to the owner, surrounding people and animals.

This is more of a rhetorical question, because dogs are well trained and with due attention and patience can master any skill. Someone wants the pet to bring items, and someone wants to protect the home. The main thing worth highlighting is that he must definitely respond to his nickname, hear and obey the owner when he receives an instruction or sees a warning gesture. There can be no single list for non-service breeds, so it all depends on the owner and personal preferences. Nevertheless, there is a list of basic commands that develop the agility, obedience and intelligence of the animal.

"To me"

One of the basic commands that must be practiced to perfection, because in some cases it can save a pet's life. At first, it is pronounced when the dog is already running towards the owner, and later - with the use of attracting objects (goodies, toys). The order is given in a calm voice from a short distance, and when the student masters it a little, you need to increase the distance and, ideally, achieve execution even when the owner is out of sight (for example, in another room).

You should not use the command "Come to me" before doing things unpleasant for the animal (cutting claws, scolding for something, etc.).

"Sit"

Another mandatory command that allows you to stop the dog at the right time and take a sitting position. To begin with, it is pronounced at the moments when the puppy begins to sit down on its own, and later - at the request of the owner after pronouncing the order. To master it, you need to show and let the beast sniff a delicacy, then raise it above your head and voice the order. You can simultaneously help the animal by gently pressing on the area of ​​the sacrum.

“Come” and “Sit” are the two most important skills that should be performed the first time, regardless of the situation and mood. Without mastering them, you should not let the dog go off-leash during a walk.

"Near"

This skill is useful so that the beast does not frighten others in public places and follows the owner. It is recommended to start the lesson when he walks up and will not be distracted by external factors. Training takes place in motion, on a leash, which is held 20-30 cm from the collar. The owner moves with a moderate step and clearly pronounces "Next". If the dog moves away from the leg or gets underfoot, you need to return it to its place with a leash and a second order and, if successful, reward it with a treat. Over time, you can speed up or slow down the pace of movement, go on a run or turn to the side and ensure that the dog is always at the foot and moves in parallel.

"Ugh"

One of the basic skills that requires a complete ban on wrong actions, and will be useful when it is necessary to wean a puppy from biting, jumping on people, picking up forbidden objects or chasing someone. Initially, the skill is practiced on a sagging leash, which jerks sharply at the moment of pronouncing the order.

Do not abuse this requirement, so as not to turn a dog's life into a series of prohibitions. Too frequent repetition is fraught with the fact that she simply stops responding to it.

"Place"

The animal must have a clearly marked permanent place, and it must know its location. For training, you need to say "Place" and lure the dog there, showing a treat. When he is in the required place, praise and give a tidbit. Usually this request is used for undesirable behavior and means something like a human "go away", for example, if the dog is begging food from the table or jumping on guests.

"Lie"

This order is not used as often as "Sit", but can also be useful in certain situations, such as at the vet's office when the pet needs to be examined. For training, you can use a treat that is held so that the animal stretches forward and down, and eventually takes a lying position. The second option - after giving the order, press with one hand on the withers, and wind the other by the front paws and push them forward.

It is important to ensure that the dog does not roll over on its side and lies down neatly, stretching its front legs and picking up its hind legs under it.

"Stand"

This skill is not only included in the list of standards, but is often used in everyday life. For example, combing hair or dressing an animal is much more convenient if it stands straight and does not fall on its side. Since this command requires more endurance and concentration, training should not begin before reaching the age of 7 months. After pronouncing the instruction “Stand”, you need to bend over to the dog sitting next to you and raise it to a standing position, taking it under the stomach with your left hand. After a 3-4 second hold, you can give a treat and praise.

"Give"

Having heard such an order, the animal must give up the object that it holds in its teeth or guards as its own property (a bowl, a toy) and does not allow it to approach. It is well mastered in puppyhood on toys, therefore, when the puppy grabs a toy, you must strictly say: “Give” and pick it up. If necessary, you can pet, shake the animal or open the jaws with your free hand, while repeating the order. It is important to return the toy immediately to begin with, and over time increase the gap between completion and return of the item.

"Aport"

Although this skill is not as important as "To Me", "Near" or "Place", it can be taught from an early age to complement your student's abilities. First you need to put the student in his place and interest in some object (stick, ball), and when he tries to grab the thing, throw it back and say: “Aport!”. Learning is accompanied by a gesture pointing to the required item.

"Walk"

Usually used to change activities after an exercise has been completed. The command is not difficult for the animal. The order "Walk" is pronounced and the direction of movement is indicated with a gesture. If, after practicing other skills, each time you release the dog with the word “Walk”, then there will be no need for targeted training.

"Give me a paw"

The team does not carry any functional load, but will be very useful when it comes time to trim nails or wash paws after a walk. To master this useful trick, you need to sit your pet in front of you and show a treat clenched in your fist. He will instinctively try to get it first with his tongue, and then with his paw. At this moment, you need to say: “Give a paw” and hold the paw for a few seconds in your hands, after which you can praise the student and give an honestly earned edible reward.

"Face"

This command deserves special attention and is mastered only after other orders are unquestioningly and instantly carried out. "Face" is a defensive, but at the same time dangerous skill, so it is better to learn it in the presence of a professional instructor and at the age of no earlier than 6-10 months. After the words "Face" the student must attack the object.

Attention: only a psychologically healthy and balanced dog can be taught the “Face” command!

Preparation

Before starting training, it is important to realize that there are no stupid pets. Of course, it is advisable to start working immediately after the puppy has appeared in the house. Starting from 3 months, you can start learning simple skills in a playful way, as the baby will quickly absorb information. Some believe that with age the animal becomes stupid, but this is not so - it is more difficult for an adult animal to absorb new information. But if the moment is missed and the dog has matured, it can also be taught commands at home if you act correctly and systematically, but it will just take more time.

The main conditions for successful training include a confident loud intonation of the voice, clarity of gestures and sufficient patience, since at first the animal may not pay attention to either orders or gestures.

Choosing a place for training

An area already familiar to the dog, where there will be no distractions (cars, strangers and animals), is suitable as a place of study. If the place is unfamiliar, you need to give him time to sniff the new territory and make sure there are no dangers.

Choice of study time

The time for classes is chosen depending on the daily routine and your own plans, but it is undesirable to conduct classes in the middle of the day in the summer. If this is the only possible time, then you should stock up on a sufficient amount of water. You should not start exercising immediately after sleep, a hearty lunch or dinner. The last meal should be a few hours before the start of the workout. Before the start of the lesson, it is recommended to walk the animal well or run a few laps around the stadium.

Choice of goodies

It is important to take your dog's favorite treat with you, which will motivate him to obedience and the correct execution of orders. These can be pieces of cheese, boiled meat, dry food, special biscuits bought at a pet store, and any other options.

How to praise

Treats and praise (voice or in the form of stroking) for the dog act as a reward for the correct behavior only if they come directly at the time of the task. A common mistake is delaying the treat, during which it is possible to perform actions that are not related to the command. For example, when mastering the “Come to me” order, the treat is given as soon as the dog is near the legs, but not when it has already approached, sat down, or twirled around. Otherwise, the reward will be associated with the last action (sat down, licked her hand, leaned her paws on the owner, etc.)

If you decide not to use the services of cynologists, but to train the dog at home, then it is useful to at least know their basic professional recommendations:

  1. Classes are held daily with a gradual increase in time and number of repetitions. It will take 10-15 minutes to get started.
  2. The command is pronounced in a strict, serious voice, praise is softer and more playful.
  3. The requirement is pronounced once, maximum twice. Repeated repetition will not be effective, since the dog will be sure that it is possible to follow the instruction from the tenth time, which is unacceptable in critical situations.
  4. Before voicing the order, the pet's name is pronounced, which is a kind of signal to attract attention and follow further instructions.
  5. You can not raise your voice or go on shouting and especially resort to physical punishment if the trainee refuses to follow the instruction.
  6. Every successful action is rewarded with treats and verbal praise.
  7. You can conduct classes in one place, and after successfully mastering the skill, you can change the place, environment and place.

If you have a new pet, it is important to understand that a change of scenery is usually stressful for the dog. At first, it is important to make friends with him, devote more time and feed only with your own hands in order to achieve the necessary trust. If you put enough love, attention and care into the dog to teach the basic skills, you can get a well-bred pet that will be loyal to its owner to the tip of the tail.

This command is considered one of the simplest and very important commands, which you definitely need to teach your dog.

After all, at the command “Sit!” just control your pet if you need the pet to stay in one place. For example, often dogs jump on the owner when he returned home from work. You can stop your pet's attempts to jump with the "Sit!" command. With the right approach, learning is easy and fast.

Learning process

Having chosen a quiet place for training without unnecessary distractions, the pet is shown a treat in his hand. The hand with the treat is slowly raised just above the head in front of the dog's eyes. If the hand is too high, then the pet will begin to back up or jump, trying to reach for the treat. If the hand is too low, the dog will not sit down. Therefore, the position of the hand should be such as to encourage the pet to sit down.

When the dog sits down, it is given treats and verbal praise, but no hand strokes. When stroking the fur, the animal is likely to get up. If the dog does not want to sit down, does not understand what they want from it, then with the help of the hands they force the pet to take the desired position. To do this, bend the hind legs with the left hand or put pressure on the croup, and hold the chest with the right hand. Having seated the pet, they fix the position for 5 seconds without removing their hands. Then a meal is given.

In the future, they practice an exercise with the introduction of a command word. Ultimately, the pet will learn to follow the “Sit!” command. without the help of the owner and without numerous treats.

Some Features

At first, the pet is rewarded for every correct attempt. Gradually, the number of treats is reduced, giving them randomly.

The first classes, especially with puppies, should be short. But the team is worked out several times during the week. Some animals learn the exercise faster.

CATEGORIES

POPULAR ARTICLES

2023 "kingad.ru" - ultrasound examination of human organs