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Most home garden owners do not dare to propagate garlic using aerial bulbs for fear of failure (planting material freezing, producing small bulbs, seeds drying out, etc.). Bolting varieties of garlic have given gardeners an amazing opportunity to save planting material and renew the variety by vegetating the crop with the help of bulbs. To insure against the loss of seeds in a severe, snowless winter, many summer residents resort to a trick - they plant winter garlic bulbs in early spring, having previously vernalized them in the refrigerator. But first things first.
Planting material
First you need to get high-quality bulbs. In the garlic bed, mark several of the largest plants (preferably they were grown from large cloves) and leave arrows on them. The remaining seedlings have their shoots removed (broken out) in order to obtain larger garlic heads. At the very beginning, the arrows are curled into a tight spiral, which straightens towards the end of the growing season. A sign that garlic needs to be harvested is cracking of the outer covers on the bulbs.
The dug up plants are removed from the garden bed entirely (without cutting off any inflorescences or bulbs), tied into bunches and hung to dry in a place with good ventilation, for example, in an attic, veranda, or under a canopy. The period of complete outflow of plastic substances from the stem and tops into the head and aerial bulbs, after which they increase in size, ranges from 3 to 4 weeks. After the leaves have completely dried, the heads with bulbs are carefully separated from the stem, trying not to damage their covers.
Until the end of winter, the seed is stored at room temperature. The bulbs are laid out on newspaper, wrapped in several layers, and stored in an open in a plastic bag. 4-6 weeks before planting, which is usually carried out in March-April (depending on weather conditions), the bulbs are sorted, removing dried and defective ones, wrapped again in paper, put in a bag and placed in the refrigerator. This is called the vernalization process, when the aerial bulbs are kept for several weeks at a temperature of about +5°C.
This stage is very important, because with the help of such a simple manipulation it starts biological mechanism crop vegetation. If the seed is not kept in the cold, then plants planted in the spring will not stop growing until the onset of cold weather at the end of autumn, sometimes they may even shoot arrows. The result is small, immature bulbs or sets that are of no value either for culinary purposes or as planting material.
Plants grown from bulbs that have gone through the vernalization stage stop growing at the end of summer (approximately mid-August), completing the growing season. This produces a large juicy onion, up to 3 cm in diameter, called a single-toothed onion, from which next year a multi-toothed large head of garlic will grow.
Preparing beds for spring sowing of bulblets
It is necessary to prepare the bed in the fall, since sowing is carried out in early spring, when the soil is still wet, and high-quality digging with the addition of the necessary organic matter is simply impossible. Garlic prefers soil that is fertile, with neutral acidity or slightly alkalizing. The place for the crop is chosen in a sunny area of the garden, without shading during the day. Lowlands and areas of accumulation are unsuitable for garlic. melt water, because in such conditions the roots of plants rot.
During autumn digging, the site is filled with compost or well-rotted manure, at the rate of a bucket for each square meter. meter. Fresh farm animal manure is never applied to garlic; only its incorporation into the soil under previous crops, for example, plants of the pumpkin family, is allowed. Be sure to enrich the soil with mineral fertilizers, which include superphosphate - the main source of phosphorus (matchbox / square meter) and plant ash - a natural source of potassium and microelements (liter jar / square meter).
Spring sowing of bulblets
A day before planting, aerial bulbs are soaked in an ash solution (1 tablespoon of ash per 0.25 l clean water), changing the solution four times to a new portion. Pop-up bulbs must be removed.
Sowing is done to a depth of 2.5-3 cm, keeping a distance between plants of about 4 cm. The rows of garlic are spaced 15-20 cm apart. Carefully sealed beds are mulched with hay (a mulch layer of about 5 cm).
This agricultural technique allows you not only to protect garlic from sudden frosts on the ground, but also to preserve valuable moisture in the soil. top layer soil, where it is located root system garlic Mulching leads to a reduction in the frequency of watering, and also reduces the work of the summer resident in weeding and loosening the beds.
Harvesting one-tooth
When the leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow and dry out en masse, it is necessary to dig up the crop. If you are late in harvesting, you may not find garlic cloves in the ground, since the above-ground part will die off. Single-toothed mushrooms are dried under a canopy, without cutting the tops, spread out in one layer on canvas or polyethylene for three days. Then the plants are tied into bunches and continue to hang dry in the attic until planting before winter. Grown one-toothed plants are high-quality planting material for sowing in autumn. Next year they will form large (from 100 to 150 grams, depending on the variety) garlic bulbs.
Easy work for you on your plot!
Gardeners call aerial garlic bulbs bulbs. They do not grow on any type of garlic. When planting garlic in autumn period Bulbs grow at the end of next summer.
If the bulblets are used for propagation, then when sowing them in the spring, already in August of this year we will get small one-toothed heads, or as it is also called - sets. Only next year can they be used to grow a plant with a large air cap and inflorescence. Those. The harvest of bulblets will have to wait two years.
Why use bulbs as planting material?
Firstly, it saves planting material. Indeed, when propagating winter garlic, which shoots with cloves, approximately a seventh of the entire harvest is consumed annually. Reproduction by bulbs does not require such similar costs. The remarkable thing is that each inflorescence can contain 20-60 bulblets.
Secondly, with the help of aerial bulbs you can easily propagate new varieties. Garlic grown from bulbs is more viable and less susceptible to all sorts of diseases and pests.
The first method: the grown seedlings are not removed, but left to overwinter in place. Second: spring, the bulblets are sown in a heap. At the end of summer, the seedlings are dug up and planted in the fall to form larger bulbs.
How to prepare seed material?
Bulbs are produced from the most productive plants. They are harvested when the film covering the bulbs in the inflorescence begins to crack on individual plants. If you tighten it, the bulbs will simply fall off. Cut inflorescences with an arrow are tied into a sheaf and hung in a room with good ventilation for drying. During this time, our bulblets ripen.
How to store garlic bulbs?
The following regime is suitable: until the beginning of the second half of February, we store the bulblets in a dry room at a uniform temperature of +18-20 °C, and from the second half of February until sowing - at 0 °C. To do this, the bulbs are first transferred to a fabric bag and then buried in the snow.
Before planting, dry the inflorescences in warm room, and then winnow in the wind. Only the largest bulbs are left, which are capable of producing developed and large garlic cloves. Bulb presentation is formed only in the third year of life.
Preparing the soil for bulbs
Bulbs are sown very early, as soon as the soil is ready. This is approximately the end of April - beginning of May. The soil for garlic bulbs has been prepared since autumn. The selected place for the garden bed is fertilized with humus 5 kg per 1 m2. Superphosphate is also added, potassium chloride in a ratio of 30:20 grams.
Lime at the rate of 300 grams per 1 m2 will help deoxidize the soil. Fertilizers are evenly distributed on the bed, the soil is dug up onto the bayonet of a shovel. The earth should lie down, as it is in clumps.
In the spring, we level the soil with a rake. Add garden fertilizer mixture (100 grams/m2).
Sowing bulbs
Sowing of bulbs occurs according to a ribbon pattern. A ribbon is a group of parallel rows of plants. The width of the tape reaches 90 cm. The tape consists of 7 rows with intervals of 15 centimeters. The tapes should be spaced at least 30-40 cm apart from each other.
In the spring, we plant the bulbs to a depth of 3-4 centimeters, and in the fall - to a depth of 4-5 centimeters. Use a hoe to make furrows of the required depth. Place the bulbs on the bottom at a given distance. Sprinkle the furrows with damp soil, compact the soil with a board and sprinkle with peat.
Sowing care
After emergence, loosen the soil to a depth of 2-4 cm, especially after rains. In dry weather we water. In hot weather, water once every 10 days. We feed with mullein. Top dressing is applied at the rate of 2 liters of solution per 1 m2. After feeding, wash with water from a watering can.
Harvesting garlic sets
The sets ripen in August, when all the tops of the garlic lie down. It's time to clean up. We dig up the seedlings with a shovel. In dry and warm weather, lay out the seedlings directly on the soil; in damp weather, bring it into a ventilated room and stir it periodically. When the sets are dry, we clean the bulbs from any remaining leaves.
Good for everyone winter garlic: both early ripening - ready for pickling vegetables, and productive - the bulbs and cloves are larger than those of the spring variety. Large teeth are very pleasant to clean, but you don’t really want to set them. If the spring variety can have several dozen cloves in its head, then the winter variety can have from 4 to 12. This means that you will replant a significant part of the crop, which is completely unprofitable.
However, there is an alternative - winter forms of garlic, as a rule, bolt, i.e. form arrows from which small cloves of garlic grow. They are called air bulbs. They are enclosed in a case, and there can be up to 100 bulbs on one plant. This is where the real breeding reserve lies! If you want to grow, say, 200 heads of garlic, then for planting when propagating by bulbs you will need only 2-3 plants.
But that's not all the benefits. In addition to saving planting material, it is no less, and perhaps more important, that when sowing bulbs, the seed fund becomes healthier. After all, the causative agents of garlic diseases are in the soil and are transferred when planting the cloves along with them. Bulbs do not have contact with the ground and, therefore, are not carriers of infections.
True, there is also negative sides. When planting garlic bulbs, you will be able to obtain a harvest of normal heads only in the second year, which means that there will be no harvest from a specific unit of area in one year. In addition, not everyone succeeds in experimenting with the propagation of shooting garlic by bulblets: some do not know how to sow correctly; someone tried but failed. In some, the bulbs froze, in others they dried out, in others the bulbs grew, but were small. In general, not without problems.
However, to grow good garlic Making from bulbs is not so difficult - you just need to follow a few rules.
1) The first thing is to grow good bulbs. To do this, it is enough to leave the arrows on several plants grown from the largest cloves (in the rest they are broken off to increase the size of the heads). The arrows are first curled into a spiral. As they grow, they straighten out, and as soon as they are completely straightened, you need to harvest the crop without delay. In this case, the harvest consists of both garlic heads and bulbs. Plants should be harvested whole, tied into bunches and hung in the attic for 3-4 weeks. During this time, there will be an outflow of plastic substances located in the leaves and stem to the bulb and air bulbs, and they will gain weight. After the stem dries, you can separate the heads with bulbs, being careful not to damage the caps.
2) Secondly, plant the bulbs correctly. This can be done both in autumn and early spring (in this case, the beds need to be prepared in the fall, since it will not be possible to dig up in mid-April). True, both options are flawed. When sowing in autumn, some of the bulbs may freeze, some are pushed to the surface by frost, and in the spring they have to be deepened again. And for spring sowing, it is not always possible to keep all the bulbs safe and sound - some of them dry out. If you prefer to store the bulbs until spring, then if stored warmly, a month to a month and a half before sowing, they should be disassembled and kept at a temperature of 4...5 ° C, for example in the refrigerator. For what? Thus, the bulbs seem to have a spring wound up biological clock. If this is not done, the plants will not “feel” time and will remain green and grow until late autumn, and sometimes even bolt. Then you will get medium-sized immature heads with small teeth, which are of no interest either as a commercial head or as planting material. Plants from bulbs cooled before planting stop growing in early August. In this case, a head is formed from one large round clove with a diameter of up to 3 cm, the so-called one-claw. Before planting, the bulbs are soaked for a day, changing the water 3-4 times. Pop-up teeth are removed. Plant at a depth of 2-3 cm every 3-5 cm in a row and 15-20 cm between rows. Plantings must be mulched, for example, with a layer of hay about 5 cm thick. This allows moisture to be retained in the upper, root-inhabited layer of soil, then there is no need for frequent watering, weeding and loosening.
3) Third, dig it up on time. When the leaves begin to turn yellow, the garlic is dug up - this will be around mid-August. If you are late with harvesting, the aboveground part of the plants will die off, and it will be difficult to find the bulbs in the ground. Dry the garlic for 2-3 days in the sun, spreading thin layer on film and covering it from dew at night. Then they are tied into bundles and dried in the attic. Single-toothed trees grown in this way are a valuable material for autumn planting. The next year they produce large heads of garlic.
How to Preserve Garlic
Preserving garlic in an apartment is very difficult - losses can be large. For example, I use this method: after the garlic has completely dried in the apartment with the radiators on, around November, I put the heads in three-liter containers. glass jars. Having filled them two-thirds, I add a bag of salt to the jars and close them with plastic lids. After that, I store them underground at 1...3°C, removing the garlic as needed.
Of course, this option is not suitable for all gardeners. Not everyone has underground storage. But the literature provides many other ways to preserve garlic in winter. Let's look at some of them.
1) In late autumn, pack the heads in plastic bags, tie them up, wrap them in several layers of newspaper and bury them in the area. When cold weather sets in, cover this area with tomato or some other tops. True, such garlic can only be used in the spring, when the snow melts and the heads can be dug up.
2) In a regular parcel box with holes in the walls, pour a layer of salt, place a row of heads, which also cover with salt on top. Then put a row of heads again, and add salt again - and so on until the very top of the box. The authors of the method claim that garlic in such conditions will remain juicy until spring.
3) If you store garlic in the kitchen, where the temperature is 18...25°C, then under no circumstances pack it in plastic bags: in them the heads suffocate, rot and rot. It is best, as experience has shown, to store garlic in bags made of thick fabric, pouring it dry onion skins. Garlic is also preserved well in dry sifted wood ash or dry sawdust.
4) Place the unpeeled heads of garlic in an enamel bowl and fill with water so that it completely covers the garlic. Leave for three days. Change the water daily - morning and evening. Then peel the heads, put them in glass jars and fill them with brine (two tablespoons of salt per liter of water). You can add a little hot pepper, then the garlic will taste like pickled garlic - without the use of vinegar and other spices. The garlic sits in this mixture for about a week until the bubbles stop appearing. Then the brine is added to the top, and the garlic is kept in it for about another month. Packaged in jars and closed with a regular plastic lid, salted garlic is ready for use. Keep it in the refrigerator, but better - near the balcony or front door where it's cooler. There it will not deteriorate and will acquire over time pleasant taste. It is an excellent addition to soups, gravies and seasonings.
5) You can store garlic in sunflower oil. Place the peeled cloves into a three-liter jar, add oil and cover with a plastic lid with holes so that the garlic can “breathe.” In this “packaging”, being in the refrigerator, it does not spoil for a very long time and is always ready for use. The oil will also acquire nice smell garlic
6) You can also make garlic powder, which is so convenient to use as a seasoning for the most different dishes where the recipe requires garlic: for meat, fish, poultry, salads, etc. To do this, you just need to peel and wash the garlic cloves, then cut them into thin plastics and dry them thoroughly, and then grind them. The only “but”: if you don’t dry the garlic well enough, you won’t be able to grind it. Perhaps a meat grinder will take it, but at the exit you will not get a powder, but a viscous viscous mass, which will then be very problematic to turn into powder.
Svetlana Shlyakhtina, Ekaterinburg
Garlic seeds - bulbs in the photo
Garlic seeds are called bulbs. They are used to produce single-tooth heads.
Before planting, the bulbs should be kept in the refrigerator (at a temperature of 5 ° C) for about a month. Otherwise the bulbs will not grow. Only greenery will grow from unprepared seeds.
Garlic bulbs should be kept in the cold in advance - this accelerates the development of the plant and its maturation. One and a half to two months before the intended planting, the garlic heads are placed in a cold place with a temperature of about 5 °C. The cellar or bottom shelf of the refrigerator is suitable for these purposes.
When preparing garlic for planting, make sure that the seed must be absolutely healthy. The teeth selected for planting should be:
- dense and elastic;
- without mechanical damage and dents;
- no signs of disease (stains of rot or mold);
- with a whole shell.
To prevent the bottom, from which the root system of the plant is formed, from drying out, the sorted bulbs are divided into cloves on the day of planting, and you should be extremely careful to prevent mechanical damage lobes Never remove the upper integumentary scales, since, as practice shows, the head grown from a bare clove cannot be stored for long.
An important step in the pre-sowing preparation of garlic for planting is disinfection. This procedure does not provide a complete guarantee that the plant will not get sick, however, it several times reduces the risk of developing diseases and damage from nematodes, garlic mites and other pests of garlic, of which there are many.
Saline solution for disinfection. Prepare a solution at the rate of three tablespoons of rock salt per 10 liters of water, and immerse the prepared cloves in it for a day.
Ash lye for disinfection. Half a kilo of sifted wood ash pour three liters of warm boiled water, stir, let stand for 20 minutes, put on fire, bring to a boil and let stand until the composition cools completely. Ash liquor is the resulting liquid without sediment. When contacting the solution, it is advisable to use rubber or latex gloves. Strain the mixture and dilute with water in a ratio of 1:2. It is enough to soak the cloves in this substrate for 1-2 hours.
Solution- copper sulfate for disinfection. This composition helps against fungal diseases of the plant: two level teaspoons of copper sulfate should be poured into a liter of water, stir and soak the garlic in it for a quarter of an hour.
Potassium permanganate solution. The composition has complex disinfecting properties: prepare a medium-pink solution of potassium permanganate and soak the cloves in it for a quarter of an hour.
After disinfection, the cloves are immediately planted in the ground without washing. The beds must be pre-prepared, fertilized in advance and properly loosened.
With proper cultivation of garlic from seed bulbs, at the end of the season you will get bulbs containing from 4 to 10 cloves.
Planting garlic in spring with bulbous seeds (with video)
To plant garlic bulbs in the spring, select the largest cloves and plant them in a sunny place after the soil has warmed up.
The cloves are planted to a depth of about 5 mm. If mulch is not provided, planting should be done to a depth of 7.5-10 mm. Of course, the cloves must be buried in the soil with the root part down. The distance between holes should be 10-15 cm, between rows - about 25-30 cm. It is still worth using mulch in beds with garlic. This significantly increases productivity. The beds for plants can be covered with straw, reeds, and leaves.
Apply to the soil organic fertilizers and loosen it thoroughly. When planting, you should not bury the seeds too deeply, otherwise they will take a long time to germinate.
Watch the video “Planting garlic with bulbs” to better understand how this agricultural technique is performed:
As a result of proper cultivation of garlic from bulbs in open ground you will get a good harvest of one-toothed mushrooms. It can be eaten or used as planting material.
After the arrows have appeared and fully straightened, the plants are dug out of the ground with roots and hung out to dry in bunches in a dark, dry place (possibly in the attic). They are kept like this for a month, until the stem is completely dry. After this, it is cut off, leaving a stump of 2-3 cm at the bulb itself. The seeds should be stored in a dark, dry place in winter.
The garlic that was grown from bulbs for further use as planting material is best stored separately from food. For winter, the heads should be placed in a cool (18 to 20 ° C), well-ventilated room. The air humidity in it should not exceed 90%. Air that is too dry is also not good for garlic (at least 60%), as it can dry out and begin to disintegrate into cloves. It is best to put the bulbs in slatted boxes.
In order to protect the garlic from drying out during storage, you can put it not in boxes, but in bags made of thick fabric, sprinkling the heads with onion peels. Also sometimes the heads are lubricated with boiled vegetable oil(0.5 l), to which iodine (10 g) is added. Apply this composition to the bulbs with a cotton swab.
Summer residents are often interested in how to grow garlic from bulbs, and what is different about this particular garlic planting material. Planting garlic bulbs allows you to rejuvenate the variety, grow new harvest, without spending money on seed stock, and without using your own garlic grown for food for planting.
Garlic bulbs (or aerial bulbs) are not actual seeds; they are full-fledged garlic bulbs grown on the shoots of a winter vegetable. Usually only the emerging arrows are broken off so that they do not take strength from the developing heads, but from 70 to 80 bulbs can ripen on each arrow. If you leave a few things to grow and develop further, the heads of these plants will form smaller, but besides them, the gardener will receive excellent material for sowing.
We usually plant garlic cloves grown on our own plot, but every year our garlic becomes smaller and more often susceptible to diseases, it more often suffers from fungal diseases, and a stem nematode often penetrates through the bottom of the bulb. Renewing the seed fund requires investing money, and by planting bulbs, you can not only save money, but significantly improve the quality of the product. They are absolutely clean, devoid of any infections, the nematode also does not reach them, if you use them as seed material, then the variety is rejuvenated. Thus, growing garlic from bulbs improves and makes the material for sowing healthier.
By sowing the bulbs, only after two years can you get full-fledged heads of garlic consisting of cloves. But already in the first year, single-toothed teeth grow, which, if necessary, can be used for food; they are one large, juicy tooth, and it’s even easier to clean.
How to grow bulbs
Only winter garlic shoots, dividing the head, we often see a small rod in its very middle - this is the remnant of the shoot, which began to grow, but was not allowed to grow. Approximately from mid-June, arrows appear; they are distinguished from leaves, and they are immediately broken off so as not to weaken the plant and not to divert strength from the forming bulb. If we want to grow bulblets, then we need to leave a few of the strongest arrows. The quantity can be approximately calculated, knowing that each inflorescence will give more than 70 aerial bulbs. It is advisable to collect them with a reserve, since not all of them will necessarily grow later.
In a month (or a little more) the leaves will begin to dry out, you need to carefully monitor the inflorescences. When the film begins to crack, the arrows are cut off, leaving long “tails”. They need to be dried, do this away from sun rays. You can put them in a thin gauze bag and hang them or lay them out on a flat surface, place them in the shade under a canopy or in a ventilated area. If the bulbs are well dried, they can be stored for up to two years in a dark, dry room with a temperature not exceeding +20 degrees.
They are of interest only as seed material, but differ from real seeds in their large size and fleshiness. Therefore, they need to be dried very well if you plan to plant them in the spring or every other year.
Methods of planting bulbs
You can plant (more precisely, sow) bulbs before winter, then next summer single-toothed ones will grow. Or you can plant them in the spring at the same time as spring garlic.
In the fall, they are sown about a month before the onset of frost, most often this happens in mid-October, so that they take root well before the cold weather, but do not begin to grow. They are planted at a depth of 4 cm in 2 - 3 pieces, leaving a distance of 6 - 8 cm between them, and about 15 cm between the rows. With the approach of winter, the bed is mulched with hay, grass, leaves, if expected Cold winter, can be covered with spruce branches. Pre-winter planting is considered risky, because the planted bulbs can freeze in the absence of snow or simply be squeezed upward by the freezing ground. If this does not happen (and some of them will overwinter even in the most extreme conditions), then in the spring after the snow melts, friendly shoots will appear.
Many people consider spring sowing of bulbs to be more effective, especially in regions with cold winters. Until spring, dried aerial bulbs are stored in a dry, dark room with a moderate temperature, and a month and a half before sowing they are taken out to prepare. The seed must undergo stratification; for this it is placed in the refrigerator for several weeks. This will allow you to grow excellent single-claw heads; if you do not cool them before planting, the garlic will grow until late autumn, its leaves will not dry out, and the head will begin to glass. After stratification, plant growth stops in August, the leaves dry out, the one-toothed ones are perfectly stored until planting next spring, and they are not threatened by any glass transition process.
Most gardeners consider stratification the only preparation for sowing. Some people soak the bulbs in a solution of potassium permanganate and copper sulfate before sowing, trying to prevent possible diseases.
Most likely, this is unnecessary reinsurance, since the bulbs themselves are uniquely pure seed material; they are not infected with anything.
Preparing the bed
Bulbs are sown on the prepared bed so that they are at a depth of 3–4 cm, 3–5 cm are left between them, the wet soil is compacted and mulched. Then they are grown in the same way as spring garlic. Harvest when the leaves droop to the ground. If you delay harvesting, the leaves will dry out and it will be difficult to find the harvest. Garlic is picked from the ground, dried, and then planted like regular winter garlic. Next year he will delight you with excellent large heads of garlic.
You can speed up the process of growing garlic from bulbs. To do this, they are slightly dried after harvesting so that they can be easily disassembled by hand, and immediately planted in the ground. The one-toothed ones will ripen by October, that is, by the time it is time to plant for the winter. Therefore, it is better not to touch them at all, and next spring they will grow like ordinary winter garlic, only they will produce a much better harvest.
Secrets of growing garlic culture
Garlic likes it light nutrient soil, before planting, it is advisable to fertilize the bed thoroughly. In the fall, humus or compost, superphosphate and potassium fertilizers are added; in the spring, urea can be added.
After planting, it would be a good idea to mulch the bed; this will help delay the drying process of the soil and prevent weeds from growing.
Garlic responds well to feeding with infusion of chicken manure during the summer, but the infusion needs to be diluted more, reducing its concentration. For garlic, it is very important to follow the rules of crop rotation. It can be grown in one place after 3 to 4 years. Under no circumstances should it be planted after onions, carrots, or cucumbers. It is best to plant garlic with planting bulbs after tomatoes, legumes, cauliflower or white cabbage.
Video “Propagation of garlic by bulblets”
From this video you will learn about the propagation of garlic by bulbs and the preparation of seed for autumn planting.
