How to clean a smoking pipe. What material is better to buy a tube

7.1 Smoking pipe seethes and moisture accumulates in it

Often this situation occurs when smoking inexpensive pipes, in which not enough attention is paid to engineering. In places with not very accurate fitting of mating parts, where a step forms, moisture accumulates. She begins to boil while smoking.

Another possible condition manifestations of a similar situation may become too fast and hot smoking. It is also not uncommon when smoking too moist tobacco leads to this. Some weather may also cause excess moisture to build up in the tube.

If such a situation arises, then simply insert the pipe brush gently into the pipe from the side of the mouthpiece and, after gently blotting, simply pull it out. You can get rid of this disease by finding out the cause. Most often in beginners, this is caused by too fast a pace of smoking. Try to slow down the pace and if the problem does not go away completely, then it will noticeably decrease.

7.2 Burning tongue when smoking a pipe

This is also a very common problem among beginner pipe smokers. And just like that, there can be several sources for this problem. The first reason is too fast, and therefore hot, smoking. Rapid smoking also increases the amount of water vapor in the smoke of smoldering tobacco, which itself has elevated temperature. This leads to a burn of the tongue. Some types of flavorings used to flavor tobacco can cause tongue tingling. Flavorings are introduced into the tobacco blend through Burley tobacco, which itself is a bit of a tongue stinger. By themselves, the sensations from smoking such tobacco mixtures may not go beyond comfortable smoking, but, coupled with hot smoking, this can cause very discomfort in the language. The advice in this case will not be original - slow down the rate of smoking. If after slowing down the discomfort lessens but persists, try switching to a less flavored blend and/or Burley.

7.3 Pipe turned sour/bitter and smoking no longer enjoyable

This may be due to a lack of attention to tube cleaning and/or too frequent use of the tube. I will talk a little about this below, when we move on to pipe cleaning and care issues.

8. Caring for smoking pipes

Well, all good things come to an end and now your pipe is smoked to the end, you can finally ease your attention and take a break. But it's too early to forget about the pipe - just like you, pipes need rest. And the tube can rest only when it is clean.

8.1. Tube cleaning

Theoretical aspects of cleaning

Himself burned out pipe tobacco and most of the products of its combustion can hardly be called even a little fragrant. Moreover, most often they cause persistent rejection and the desire of the olfactory organs to quickly shut down, pretending to be a pearl shell. And even the most noble pipe tobacco leaves behind resins and oils that are not at all noble in terms of aroma. If you don't want your pipe to taste or smell like an ashtray, keep it clean.

Despite its density, briar quite readily absorbs moisture, and with it the aromatic components - both pleasant and not very. That is why the pipe needs to be cleaned after each smoking. It may seem like some kind of duty, but there is nothing burdensome in the cleaning process and it will take you no more than 5 minutes per tube.

The first thing I will draw your attention to is that you should not clean your pipe immediately after smoking. To be more precise, a hot pipe should not be disassembled, since materials expand due to heating and, when disassembling the pipe, the mouthpiece trunnion can jam, which, with excessive force, can lead to its breakage. Uneven cooling of the chibouk and the mouthpiece can also lead to the fact that the mouthpiece, after cooling, will be difficult to insert, or vice versa - it will hang out in the Mortise. Optimal time start cleaning the pipe - 20-30 minutes after smoking, during which time the pipe will have time to cool down and it will be possible to disassemble it without fear of breaking the mouthpiece. Of course, you remember this, but just in case, I will still mention once again that you need to disassemble a smoking pipe by unscrewing the mouthpiece clockwise. This is because after drilling the motriz, the fibers in the briar are drilled in that direction and twisting against the grain can lift these fibers.

Aesthetic aspects of tube cleaning

Spending five minutes cleaning the tube after 20-30 minutes of cooling is not a problem when there is time. What to do when it's not there? Do not rush in the middle of the morning meeting to the pipe that you smoked on the way to work. Not to disrupt an important deal just because the pipe has cooled down enough to take it apart. There is no need to break the plans built in advance because of the need to clean the pipe, because 20-30 minutes is a minimum, but not a maximum. A smoked pipe can wait while you do your business, but before you leave the pipe to cool, you should shake out the remaining ashes and tobacco in order to weaken the source of the unpleasant odor. Usually, if I didn’t manage to smoke the pipe to the end, I lift the tobacco remaining at the bottom with an awl or a spoon of a tee so that the ashes cover the bottom, after which I shake everything into an ashtray. I do not knock out, but I pour out. The ash covering the bottom will collect some of the released moisture and will not allow it to penetrate into the soot layer and into the briar. If the pipe is smoked to the end, then I just lightly mix the ashes at the bottom and pour them into the ashtray.

Continuing the theme of the fragrance, I want to note that you should not clean pipes in public. During this process, the aroma spreads quite widely and not everyone present at the same time will be able to treat with understanding " side effects» your hobbies. Moreover, you should not start cleaning if you are in the company of colleagues or acquaintances for festive table. Just one deployment surgical kit» for cleaning pipes can cause puzzled looks in your direction, not to mention the cleaning process itself.

A pipe smoked for several hours may well wait for the moment when you can give it due attention in complete peace of mind. The frequency and thoroughness of cleaning, as well as exact time resting tubes compensate for short delays in cleaning. And I, if I didn’t have the opportunity to clean my pipes during the day, collect the pipes smoked during the day and in the evening, in peace and quiet, smoking a pipe, I proceed to general cleaning.

There is nothing complicated or in the least burdensome about cleaning smoking pipes. Do not look at this as a duty or an inevitable retribution for previous pleasures - it's just a simple planning process, no more. In order to get started, we need an ashtray, pipe cleaners, a tee or a pipe cutter, a napkin and, in fact, a smoked pipe. Sometimes literally a drop of cognac is added to this set at the bottom of the glass.

8.2 Internal cleaning

To begin with, we disassemble the cooled pipe, unscrewing the mouthpiece clockwise, and carefully remove the carbon filter from the filter chamber, if any. I start cleaning from the mouthpiece, inserting the ruff so that it goes through. When passing the ruff through the mouthpiece, make sure that the sharp wire ends do not scratch the smoke. mouthpiece channel from the inside, which is especially important for curved mouthpieces. Then I simply “roll” the mouthpiece on the ruff with relatively fast movements with a short amplitude, rotating it slowly around its axis. Special attention should be paid to cleaning the filter chamber and the bell in the mouthpiece. The mouthpiece is cleaned in just a few movements and there is no need to “roll” it on a ruff until the smell of burning appears.

With the same ruff, I begin to clean the shank, inserting the ruff into it with a narrow end. Sweeping rather slowly and rotating, I bring the ruff to the center of the tobacco chamber. With the first pass, I collect moisture that may have accumulated in the chibouk and particles of ash that have flown into it. Then I take out the ruff and, inserting it with the opposite end, with short movements “back and forth”, I start cleaning, rotating the ruff clockwise. Do not make the amplitude of translational movements too large and pay attention to the fact that the end of the ruff that goes into the tobacco chamber does not scratch the bottom and does not beat into the smoke opposite from the exit. channel wall of the bowl. The task of this passage is to remove the main dirt from the walls of the chibouk, and therefore it makes no sense to work with a ruff for a long time, otherwise we will begin to smear the dirt collected on the ruff.

Pulling the ruff out of the shank, we will see that it does not look as fun as before - at both ends it is noticeably dirty and damp, but in the center the ruff is still quite clean and usable. We fold it into a U-shape with a rounding diameter equal to the diameter of the tobacco chamber. We insert a smoothly folded ruff into the tobacco chamber and with a little effort, with short translational movements, we pass over the entire surface of the tobacco chamber, first with one beam of the folded ruff, then with the other. Do not forget also about cleaning the bottom of the tobacco chamber. Having collected ashes and adhering tobacco crumbs from the walls, we take out the ruff and fold it “inside out” with a clean edge outward. Before continuing to clean the chamber, take a spoon from a tee or a pipe knife and use it with very little effort to clean off the adhering particles of tobacco from the walls of the tobacco chamber, which could not be cleaned off with a ruff. Having poured out the tobacco-ash crumbs collected in the bowl, we continue cleaning the chamber with a ruff. After several passes along the walls of the tobacco chamber, we pick up a lint-free cloth, and send the dirty brush to the ashtray or trash. We wrap a finger with a napkin so that at the same time it enters the tobacco chamber. Without special efforts we clean the tobacco chamber clean and blow the bowl in order to remove possible pile from the walls. Perhaps what I will say next, someone will not like it, but often after a napkin, and sometimes instead of it, I walk around the camera with just a finger, while you can press hard, but not to blisters, without being afraid to grind the pile by the bowl. Despite the lack of any aesthetics in such a passage, the control brushing with a finger is usually the highest quality. Nothing prevents you from just rinsing your hands with soap after everything. However, follow similar method brushing or laughing at him - the choice is yours.

Now we take a clean brush in our hands and go through the control cleaning along the mouthpiece channel and mouthpiece bell. After that, fold the ruff in half and firmly press the bend so that both rays of the ruff fit snugly against each other. With a ruff from the side of the fold, we go through the filter chamber, cleaning it, and in the same way we clean the mortar in the chubuk, turning the ruff inside out if necessary. After that, with a ruff folded in half, we proceed to clean the chubuk. We introduce the ruff slowly so that the possible “ear” at the bend does not scratch the smoke. channel from the inside. We bring one end into the bowl and with “there and there” movements we clean the chubuk so that the “ear” of the folded ruff does not dive from the bowl into the smoke. channel and did not scratch it. So we clean the shank, rotating the ruff during translational movements and around its axis. After a while, turn the ruff over and insert the other end, continuing to clean. After that, we “turn out” the ruff and repeat the procedure from both ends. If there are still traces of dirt on the ruff, then take a clean ruff and repeat the cleaning of the shank until the ruff comes out clean. You should not save on ruffs, especially since 2-3 pieces are enough to clean one pipe.

Occasionally I clean the smoke channel of the chibouk and the mouthpiece with a brush barely moistened with cognac. There is no regular periodicity in this procedure, and I determine this moment by the state of the ruffs after normal cleaning. If suddenly thickened particles of resins appeared on them, then it's time. In the mouthpiece, of course, this does not happen, but in the shank it sometimes happens. If basic cleaning is carried out thoroughly enough, then similar procedure will be very rare. At the same time, the ruff should be literally barely moistened and the cognac from it, of course, should not drain into the bowl. It is enough just to walk with a wet brush once through the channels of the shank and mouthpiece. Then wipe them dry and clean with clean, dry ruffs.

What happens to a smoking pipe if it is not cleaned?

It's scary to even imagine. Honestly. Resins and adhering ash will clog the pores of the briar, so that the absorbed moisture will not be able to evaporate. When sour, this moisture will bring its “amber” into the already unpleasant aroma of an uncleaned pipe, and as a result, the pipe will not only lose its taste, but will acquire such bad taste that smoking such a pipe will turn into torment. It will be very difficult to bring such a tube back to life.

8.3 External cleaning

After the internal cleaning is over, I proceed to the external. I wipe the stammel of briar pipes with a little pressure with a soft flannel cloth, sometimes slightly damp. This allows you to get rid of perspiration from the palm of the hand, which remain on the tube while we hold it in our hands. At first glance, it may seem that they are not there, but, as in the case of the gopher, they are. If this is not done, the pipe will quickly lose its gloss and the contrast of the pattern will noticeably decrease, and the color of the stain will acquire a dirty gray tint.

I also clean the mouthpiece, paying special attention to the corners on it. In particular, the corner between the mouthpiece and the mouthpiece itself.

9. Rest smoking pipes

Thinking about rest for pipes, for some reason, a bearded anecdote about a mouse pad and a mattress for a cockroach comes to mind. However, tubes need rest. Rest is the period during which the pipe gets rid of the moisture absorbed during smoking and is simply ventilated. If the pipe is not allowed to dry, then the accumulated moisture will begin to return its unpleasant bitter taste and ashy aroma to the smoker. The rest time of pipes depends on many parameters: on the briar and its thickness in the pipe, on what kind of tobacco was smoked and how it was smoked, on climate and environmental conditions. After all, it is obvious that a pipe in a dark, dry closet will rest faster than in a bathroom. Especially if hot showers are taken all the time in this bathroom.

Very often in various sources it is mentioned that the breaks between smoking one pipe should not be shorter than a day, and here, as in the case of a broken clock that shows the exact time twice a day, there are conditions when these statements are true. Again, the expression “at least a day” indicates a minimum interval, but not a sufficient one. It is quite easy to determine whether the pipe has rested - just sniff the tobacco chamber. From the tobacco chamber of a rested smoking pipe, a subtle and pleasant aroma of tobacco is heard, the smell from an insufficiently dried pipe is not the most pleasant and it will be difficult for you not to recognize it. I live in pretty humid climate and I take pipes to rest for at least three days, but it is not uncommon for a pipe to return a pleasant aroma of tobacco only after 4-5 days.

It is not worth bullying the pipe by smoking it more often than it needs to, and the consequence of this statement is the question that I put in the heading of the next section.

10. How many tubes do you need?

The answer is simple: as much as you smoke. Provided that the tubes will have the proper amount of time to rest. If you smoke a pipe once a week, then one pipe will suffice. If you smoke three pipes a day, and take three days to rest, then you will need 12 pipes. As you can see, the math is quite simple. How to store a pipe?

After we've cleaned the pipe, it's time to give it time to rest. Someone stores the tubes disassembled, someone - assembled. I use both of these storage options for myself. Due to the humidity of the climate I live in, pipes don't dry as fast as I would like, and it's not just the tobacco chamber and smoke that have to dry. channel, but also mortiz. Especially if it has a chamber for replaceable filters. When the tube is assembled, the drying of the mortis is difficult, and in the end this small "isthmus" can become a source of, though not strong, but not very pleasant smell. So the first day I keep my pipes disassembled, after that I assemble and send them to the stand.

11. Storing smoking pipes

11.1 Tube storage conditions

The biggest enemies of tubes are moisture and direct sunlight. Under the rays of the sun, the ebonite of the mouthpieces loses color and begins to gray. Colored stains that may be used on pipe stammels may also lose their color. And this happens, of course, quite unevenly, and as a result of such storage, the tube takes on a very sad look. Optimal conditions storage tubes are dark and dry places that are sufficiently well ventilated. These can be cabinets or shelves in them, drawers, etc. But you should not store pipes in the same place with clothes or perfumes.

11.2 Tube stands

At a time when the handset is not in use, it is better to keep it on a stand. Mouthpiece ebonite scratches quite easily, briar bowls are easily dented, meerschaum pipes themselves are very fragile. In order to avoid unnecessary mechanical damage tubes, they must be stored in a more or less stable position. They should not hit each other and other objects, rolling in the drawer of your desk when it is opened and closed. They also shouldn't fall off a closet shelf when you open it to get something. So pipe stands are not a whim at all, but necessary condition in order to protect your tubes from damage. It is not at all necessary for them to be made of precious wood with inlay or coated with gold leaf. Their main task is to keep your pipes in a stable position and it is this factor that you should pay attention to when choosing a stand for your pipes. Will the tubes be stored in vertical position or in the horizontal - the second thing. First - they must be stable on the base. Stands on which tubes are stored vertically got their distribution mainly due to the fact that in this form they occupy less space. This will become relevant when the number of pipes crosses the line of seven or ten, and this, believe me, will happen very soon. Unless, of course, your hobby is not every second, but since you have reached the point of reading these lines, then this is not so.

12. Storing pipe tobacco

Well, the question of which pipe tobacco to buy receded into the background for a while. Now we are faced with the issue of tobacco storage. Pipe tobacco, unlike cigarette tobacco, should not be dry, which means that until only crumbs remain from an open can, tobacco must retain its moisture. This means that certain requirements must be made to the conditions for storing tobacco. Here by the term "storage of tobacco" I mean the period while the tobacco is smoked and do not consider cases of conservation of tobacco.

12.1 Tobacco factory packaging

As long as the tobacco is in a factory-sealed jar, there are no special requirements for its storage. Tobacco in a sealed form can be stored for quite a long time, but if you open a can, then you will have to take care of preserving the natural moisture of pipe tobacco. Most manufacturers seal the tobacco in cans at a slightly higher moisture content, which is a kind of insurance against the fact that the tobacco reaches the consumer dry, and at the same time helps the tobacco retain its moisture after opening the can until the moment when the tobacco runs out. For some time, tobacco can be stored in your own bank. But if you smoke infrequently or have several open cans, each of which lasts a long time, you should take care of tobacco containers that will not allow the tobacco to dry out. You should also take care of this if you buy tobacco in pouches - plastic bags. They are very unreliable and I prefer to immediately pour the tobacco out of them into something more airtight.

The main requirement for containers used for storing tobacco is its tightness. W.O. tobacco round 100-gram cans retain moisture well. Larsen and can be reused. Tobacco cans from manufacturers such as McClelland and G.L. hold moisture quite well. Pease. Tobacco in such jars is stored without loss for a long time, but if it takes you more than a month or even two to smoke such a jar, monitor the humidity more carefully and, if necessary, pour the tobacco into a more reliable container. I do not really trust the reliability of round 50-gram cans and “square” flake cans, and therefore I try not to keep tobacco in them for more than a week and a half after opening.

In any case, be guided by the condition of the tobacco and, based on this, make a decision - whether to leave the tobacco in its original packaging or pour it into a more airtight container.

12.2 "Third Party" Tobacco Storage Containers

Probably the most popular tobacco storage container in our country is Moccona coffee cans. I do not want and will not discuss the quality of the coffee itself, but the jars themselves turned out very well. Cans of 50 g and 100 g have firmly taken root in my everyday life - these cans are really able to retain moisture without much effort on my part. for a long time. Banks large sizes from under this coffee seemed to me not so airtight.

Not bad, from the point of view of preserving the moisture content of tobacco, have proven themselves plastic bags with plastic clasp. But there are a lot of varieties of such packages and it is necessary to select packages with thick walls. Conditionally determine the degree of tightness of such packages by smell - the stronger the aroma coming from a closed bag of tobacco, the faster the tobacco dries in it. Among such packages there are packages with metallized walls - such packages cope better with preserving the moisture content of tobacco. In addition, such packages are convenient to carry with you, which cannot be said about large banks.

13. A little about pipe accessories

Pipe lighters

On modern market presented great amount all kinds of lighters. What is the difference between a pipe lighter and a regular one? In a pipe lighter, the flame is not fed straight up, as in conventional ones, but at an angle. This is done so that the smoker does not burn his fingers while lighting. Many of the lighters have a built-in tamper or even a set: a knife, an awl and a tamper. This is sometimes very convenient and, if necessary, saves the number of items carried with you. Often the latter is relevant when visiting entertainment establishments, when there is a high risk of losing or forgetting individual accessories for any reason.

Silicon lighters seem to me more reliable lighters with a piezo element. At least this is true for economy class lighters. There are also so-called turbo lighters, which must be used with care, as the flame of such lighters can damage the walls of the tobacco chambers of your pipe. I prefer not to use such lights at all.

In principle, the market for pipe lighters is so wide that the choice is largely dictated only by the purchase budget. This market presents both simple and unpretentious lighters worth a few rubles, as well as expensive items finished with precious metals and stones, the cost of which can reach tens of thousands.

Tampers

Initially, the role of the tamper was simply to trample on the ashes in a smoldering pipe. Today, tampers are tightly intertwined with the field of art and sometimes it is difficult to determine what is in front of you - a simple utilitarian thing, a skillful creation of a talented jeweler or an exhibit of a museum of modern art. A tamper is an indispensable thing in everyday life of a pipe smoker, the choice is truly great and the decision will not be easy.

Rimmers and Buttners

The benefits of soot formed on the walls of the tobacco chamber are obvious, but everything is fine when in moderation. There should be carbon deposits on the walls, but when it becomes too thick, this can lead to a number of not very pleasant ones, one of which is taste spoilage. The soot itself grows rather slowly, but it is not uncommon for cases when, instead of soot, a layer of stuck together ash and resins grows on the walls. Such a layer grows quite quickly and is often perceived by beginners as soot. To remove such a layer, as well as to cut carbon deposits, rimmers and buttners are used - these are devices with sharpened knives that allow you to trim carbon deposits. Also, if applied effortlessly, they allow you to slightly trim the surface of the soot and cut off tobacco particles that have stuck after smoking.

Tube bags

If you smoke not only at home, but also outside of it, and you often have to carry your pipes with you, then in order to avoid damage to them, it will not be superfluous to purchase a pipe bag. The number of such bags offered by stores is very extensive - from bags made of artificial materials to magnificent author's works from genuine leather. By the number of tubes, such bags are also diverse and can contain from two to 8 or more tubes. Some bags have compartments for tobacco, brushes and pipe accessories, some are combined with compartments for documents, laptops or even SLR cameras. In a word, their choice is very large and everything here is determined by the budget of the purchase.

That, in fact, is all that concerns the initial knowledge base necessary for those who are going to start smoking a pipe or are doing it for the first time. Surely I forgot or missed something, paid insufficient attention to something, or unnecessarily painted what it was enough to give just a couple of words - I will try to correct myself in the future. I hope that with your help, advice, recommendations and interesting questions I will supplement and expand this collection of tips. In fact, pipe smoking is a fascinating and at the same time pacifying process, which is accompanied by a lot of interesting events and new processes. He is accompanied by new interesting acquaintances, opens A New Look for many ordinary things. With a smoking pipe in your hands or in your teeth, you will never be the same again, and on the world you will look differently and I am sure you will like this look much more ...

An important component of the hookah smoking culture is proper care for their smoking accessories. If you do not properly clean the hookah, then it will become clogged after a short period of time, and it will be unpleasant and difficult to smoke it. If during smoking you will feel extraneous smells and tastes, then this is the main signal that the hookah must be thoroughly cleaned. It is best to clean the hookah immediately after each use. It is in this case that the resins in the hookah will not have time to dry, and you will be able to clean them with the highest quality.

Cleaning a hookah is an extremely simple process. However, it does not require you a large number time. However, this process must be taken very seriously, because careless cleaning can damage the hookah and render some of its components unusable. You need to clean each element of the hookah separately, however most attention it is worth paying attention to the hose, because it is there that accumulates the largest number foreign substances. Therefore, consider the basic principles of how to wash a hookah hose. It doesn't matter if this hose is silicone, wood, or leather - it still needs to be rinsed well.

First of all, the hose must be disconnected from the hookah. In order to completely get rid of odors and foreign matter, it is necessary to rinse the hose thoroughly in a concentrated solution of citric acid. After that, you need to take a separate mouthpiece, attach it to a tap with water and rinse it, constantly increasing the pressure of cold water. Such washing should be carried out for at least fifteen minutes. After that, we blow the hose well from both sides. To improve the cleaning effect, we use a fishing line. The length of the fishing line should be three lengths of the hose. We attach a rag in the middle of the fishing line, and stretch it through the hose in two directions alternately. If the cloth is dirty, it must be replaced with a new one. Dry the hose at the end of cleaning. It should be in a vertical position so that all the water can drain from it.

If standard hoses are used, they cannot be washed. They contain metal, which, in contact with water, can rust, which will lead to increased likelihood inhalation of rusty dust. If these hoses are dirty the only way out there will be a replacement. Sometimes ordinary blowing helps, however, the effectiveness of such cleaning is small.

You can learn more about the rules for cleaning the hose when watching the video:

The legalization of marijuana and, as a result, its regular use dictate special requirements to the condition of smoking devices. Over time, old resin accumulates on their surface layer by layer with bad smell. In order for a smoking pipe, bong or other smoking device to be spotlessly clean, it is enough to observe a few simple recommendations care after them.

After several months, weeks, and even days of using a pipe or bong, resin settles in a thick layer on the inside of the device. This does not look very aesthetically pleasing and, more importantly, significantly spoils the taste of smoke. In addition, it is quite difficult to wash the pipe or bong from the resin, and if this is not done in time, then it is impossible to use the device. . Get rid of flying without the extra expense of special cleansers, you can do it by following a few simple steps.

Tube cleaning

1. First you need clean the resin with special tools for pipe care where possible. Popular resource "The Chronicle" calls "Randy's Hard Bristle" the best products, but you can use quality tools of any other brands. The instrument is inserted through the mouthpiece at the front of the tube, then cleaned with it inner surface along the entire length of the device, with a significant part of the resin being pushed into the bowl of the tube. This operation must be repeated several times. The resin lumps are then removed from the bowl of the tube. To completely clean it, you can use a regular toothpick or paper clip. Special care must be taken with the knife, as the metal blade slides on the glass surface.

2. Then you need to fill a tall glass alcohol. 90% alcohol is best, but in the absence of a stronger one, 60% alcohol can also be used. alcohol solution. The glass should be about two-thirds full of it, after which the tube is immersed in it. The device is left in alcohol for a while, at least an hour (the longer the better).

3. After the tube has been in alcohol for some time, it must be drained and the device rinsed clean running water. The tube is then placed in a suitably sized pot, which is filled with water. The pot is placed on the stove and gradually brought to a boil. In no case should a glass tube be placed immediately in boiling water - this may cause cracks on it. Fixture needed simmer for 30 minutes, then allow the water to cool and carefully remove the tube from the pan. Important: during the boiling of the pipe, a very intense specific smell spreads. If even after boiling there is still resin on the tube, this step must be repeated.

4. After boiling, very thin layer melted resin. It is easy to remove if put the tube back into the tall glass of alcohol(approximately 30 minutes). Then the tube must be rinsed again under running water. clean water. After the device dries, it is ready for use again.

bong cleaning

1. Cleaning a bong is usually a lot lighter and faster than a tube. Its design provides free access to most of the internal surfaces. First you need to fill the water tank of the bong 90% alcohol and remove the bowl. Important: This method is not suitable for a plastic bong, as interaction with alcohol will inevitably lead to cracks.

2. A medium-sized bong tank is about half full table salt . The abrasive structure of the salt makes it possible to quickly and safely remove plaque.

3. Then you need to clamp the openings of the tank on both sides with your hands and shake vigorously him several times. You need to perform these manipulations over the sink. Shaking the tank, you need to periodically turn it over so that the salt cleans different areas its inner surface. Particular attention should be paid to the areas where the resin layer is the thickest.

4. After the entire inside of the tank has been cleaned with salt, it must be rinsed under running water. clean running water.

5. For cleansing bong bowls and tubes the glass tube cleaning method described above is used.

32941 A pipe that has been used during the day must be cleaned in the evening so that the smoking properties and appearance tubes were left high level throughout the life of the tube.

For the evening ceremony, it is necessary to prepare brushes and a pipe ashtray. If you can't afford to buy it, then make it yourself. For this, a traditional flat ashtray, as large as possible in diameter, is suitable. In the center of such an ashtray, fix a large cork cork (a champagne cork will do). Pre upper part plugs must be rounded off with sandpaper. This cork anvil will serve to beat the ashes out of the pipe. The method is trouble-free and safe.

Let's start the procedures. First you need to remove all the ash and combustion residues from the bowl. After that, you need to separate the mouthpiece from the shank, remembering that you should never pull it out like a cork from a bottle. It is enough to allow the slightest distortion, and the chibouk will burst or the neck of the mouthpiece will break off. Never attempt to separate the mouthpiece while the pipe is still warm. Why? Acrylic or ebonite, from which the mouthpiece is made, expands more when heated than heather. The tube should be cold, then the mouthpiece will separate easily, it will be easy to disassemble and assemble. To remove or insert the mouthpiece, it must be “unscrewed” or “screwed in” only clockwise! Never turn the mouthpiece left and right like a crown wrist watch. This method leads to rapid wear of the mouthpiece neck seat and complete loosening of the tube. We firmly hold the head of the tube with the left hand (if you are right-handed), and with the right hand, always with the whole palm, tightly embrace the mouthpiece and, turning it to the right, take it out of the tube. Put the mouthpiece back in the same way. If the mouthpiece is attached on the thread, then we disconnect it otherwise - we screw it in and unscrew it along the thread. After the mouthpiece is separated from the pipe, it must be cleaned.

To do this, we introduce a previously prepared clean brush into the smoke channel of the mouthpiece from the side of the bite and pull it through the mouthpiece. You may need several brushes, do not skimp on them, and do not hide used ones for a rainy day. In countries with a great pipe tradition, you can buy long brushes designed for cleaning CHURCHWARDENs. They can be folded in half and cleaned smoke channels of increased diameter. There are brushes in which short, hard bristles are woven. Such brushes are indispensable for cleaning especially dirty smoke channels lined with dried condensate. The color of the brush does not affect its quality. Brushes are among those pipe accessories that a pipe smoker should always have with him at work, while traveling, etc.

After cleaning the mouthpiece from the inside, it is necessary to clean its outer surface, which is basically done with just a clean cloth. It must be remembered that in no case should you use any solutions containing alcohol to clean the outer surfaces of the tube, this applies to all types of tubes. Outside surface ebonite mouthpiece during daily cleaning should, in addition to the usual wiping with a clean cloth, be processed special pastes ebonite care. If these pastes are not available, they can be replaced with a special "guitar oil" sold in music stores as a means of caring for the surface of the fretboard of bowed instruments (not to be confused with polishing liquids for guitar body wood!)

Now it's the chubuk's turn. We clean it after each smoking. We fold the brush in half and clean the hole in the shank from the side of the mouthpiece. It must be remembered that for better cleaning, the brush must perform reciprocating movements inside the shank (like a piston in a cylinder), and not rotate around an axis. After the shank is cleaned, we introduce a clean brush into the shank and leave it until the next filling of the pipe with tobacco, but not longer than for a day. This brush will absorb a lot of moisture from the tube.

Subject to these simple tips You will never have to face the problem of curing a soured tube.

How to cure a soured pipe, remove resins and odors

If there is such a problem as a soured pipe (say, as a result of purchasing a used, already damaged pipe - soured, or with a bright aftertaste of some kind of tobacco that cannot be removed by normal cleaning), then there are a number of radical measures to help you remedy the situation. So, your pipe is sour, and it's time for more drastic measures to restore them. It should be noted that hereinafter only pure heather pipes will be discussed.
To begin with, you need to try the well-established method of restoring the taste of the pipe using a hydrochloric-alcohol solution. You will need coarse salt (not iodized) and pure alcohol. At worst, you can take vodka or any other strong drink, but not sweet and without foreign odors. You should not use gin, whiskey, brandy, tequila and similar "flavored" drinks. The tube must first be thoroughly cleaned using a rimmer to remove carbon deposits. You also need a tube stand or some device that holds the tube in a fixed position. Some advise to first remove the mouthpiece and plug a brush inside the tube to prevent brine inside the chibouk, but this is absolutely not worth doing, since the soured deposits of tobacco tar must be removed not only directly from the bowl of the pipe, but also from the chibouk (otherwise it will be only half measures).
The cleaning itself is in the following way. Fill the cup of the pipe with salt almost to the bleed. Then carefully, trying not to drip on outside tubes, soak the salt in alcohol. It is better to use a pipette or syringe for this. The tube completely filled with salt is left until the salt dries completely and the alcohol evaporates (this may take from 12 hours to several days). After complete drying, the salt blackened from the absorbed resins is carefully removed both from the bowl of the pipe and from the chibouk using alcohol solutions (do not spare the brushes!). Then the pipe must be allowed to dry completely for another couple of days, after which you can try smoking. The first few smokes will have an alcoholic aftertaste, but then everything should fall into place.
I would like to warn you that very fine salt, too much alcohol, and especially not enough time to dry the pipe can cause the briar to burst, crack, and ruin the pipe. Therefore, be extremely careful and careful when using this cleaning method. Even better in such cases, contact the master.

If this method does not give positive result, then as a last resort, you can try a complete restoration by boiling the pipe (naturally without a mouthpiece) in an alcohol solution (ordinary vodka is well suited for such a case). To do this, the tube is completely immersed in an alcohol solution, and boiled (literally boiled!) For 3-5 hours. Naturally, this operation is best done outdoors. After that, the tube should dry for at least two weeks.
I recommend using the last method only really in the very last resort, since its use, in addition to restoring the smoking properties of the pipe, leads to the need for a complete restoration outer surface tubing whose coating will be damaged as a result of this restoration method.

What to do if your favorite pipe is loose, and replacing the mouthpiece has become an impossible dream?

Experienced smokers advise: warm up the loose mouthpiece over the flame of a candle, gas or in hot water. When under the influence high temperature it will become softer, with light movements we hit it with the end, strictly vertically, on some hard object - a hammer, the bottom of an ashtray, for so long until the mouthpiece hardens. As a result of our efforts, the neck of the mouthpiece will become larger in diameter and will sit tighter in place. We repeat these steps until we reach the desired planting density. If the smoke channel of the mouthpiece is threatened with constriction during this operation, it is necessary to insert a piece of wire or a nail of suitable diameter into the hole, for this it is necessary to take care in advance that they are at hand. In conclusion, we immerse the neck of the mouthpiece in cold water for cooling.

If the situation is reversed - the mouthpiece is too tight, tight and crackling, it is difficult to screw it in, then the neck of the mouthpiece should be rubbed with graphite powder, this should work. VAYEN produces special graphite pencils in lipstick-type cases for processing tubes with nine-millimeter filters. In extreme cases, graphite powder can be obtained from the lead of a simple soft pencil. If the method of rubbing with graphite did not lead to the desired result, then we warm up the end of the mouthpiece and try to screw it into the chubuk with a reverse movement. Do not heat the mouthpiece too frequently as the material of which the mouthpiece is made becomes too brittle. If the above actions for some reason do not suit you, look for other methods.

Smoking pipes need to be cleaned. Otherwise, it will stink like an ashtray with cigarette butts. Unpleasant, right? :)

stinks tobacco tar and tobacco condensate, the bitter liquid that forms when smoking a fragrant pipe. So they get rid of them with the help of a brush. Just as a cotton rag soaks up spilled tea/coffee from a table, a cotton brush soaks up all the stink that comes from smoking a pipe.

So, brushes use:

1. after smoking
2. While smoking

1. Clean the pipe after smoking

After smoking, the mouthpiece of the smoking pipe must be separated from the chibouk and rinse it (the mouthpiece) under water from these bitter liquids. Not under boiling water, not with soap, not in the dishwasher. Just under warm water. Blow fountains through the mouthpiece. :)
Play and that's enough. :)
Now we take the thin part of the ruff and brazenly push it into the hole of the mouthpiece. Enters and exits. Enters and exits. :) Familiar action? :)
Otozh - only for the sake of this we buy ruffs. :)))
All! If you did everything right, your mouthpiece is now clean and odor free.
Now we take the tree of the pipe itself and put the thick, clean part of the brush into the hole in the shank. Got it all messed up?! From the plague! I knew it! :)
Well, what can you do - the brush is dirty. And since he is already dirty - you need to work on him - back and forth - enters and exits. And so 700-800 times. :)
Well, okay... 5-10 times, but not 300. :)
All! now and the tube is clean and odorless.

Did I forget anything?

A! Yes! And the bowl?
The tobacco was on fire! She smells too!

Cleaning a stinky pipe bowl. :)

We take a disposable paper napkin or a paper towel or toilet paper (Oh! God! I said it!)
We make a tampon out of it, put it in the hole (yes, yes, it’s already familiar) and twist twist twist. :)
Screwed stink on a piece of paper?!
Cool!
Throw the dirty paper swab into the trash can. Or we throw it to the neighbor, to spite! :)

Cool! Now we have both a bowl and a chubuk and a mouthpiece clean and odorless.

With a deft movement, we stick a clean mouthpiece into a clean pipe and put it to rest on a stand.
All! You can give yourself an order for special merits and demand a well-deserved kind and affectionate word from your wife.

2. We clean the pipe while smoking

If you have a tube with a filter - pass by. This story is not about you. :)
This method is used only with a pipe for direct smoking, because "it has all the holes open" and the brush can pass through - the filter does not interfere.

So, we smoke, smoke, and suddenly: "Yo! What the hell? Water in the pipe! Bubbling, hissing, wheezing. I was deceived! Return the money! Marriage!"
Calmly! Hide the revolver. You don't have to shoot. This is fine.
When burned, water is produced. That's how it's arranged. Chemistry!
Now, if this water condenses rather than evaporates, it accumulates at the bottom of the tube. It wets the tobacco from below and begins to squish in the mouthpiece.
It is easy to get rid of this rubbish with a brush. I stuck the brush into the mouthpiece, without removing it and that's it. The deeper, the better. Better right down to the tobacco. The brush becomes wet, and the pipe becomes dry.
Shaitanama! Happened! :)

Now you know how to use a brush while smoking pipe tobacco in a pipe.
Fuck how cool you are now! :)

By the way, I didn't say. These brushes are disposable. paper napkins- Same. :)

Well, everything!
I showed and told everything. Now buy a box of ruffs from me and go ahead - conquer the work of a pipe cleaner.

The main thing in our business is that the pipes do not stink, but smell(is there such a word - "smelled"?)
That's what brushes are for. :)

---
Geva Artemyan, Kyiv, 2016