"crawfish necks", "crow's feet" and "duck noses". Composition of all Russian candies and bars - “Rot Front”, “Korovka”, “Romashka”, “Red October”, “Korkunov” and other manufacturers What additives are usually used
Almost everyone knows the “Crow’s Feet” caramel: these candies were sold in the USSR from childhood. More than one manufacturer makes "Crow's Feet", but I will tell you about my favorite candies from Kazakhstan produced by Rakhat JSC.
Joint Stock Company "Rakhat" is one of the largest manufacturers of confectionery products in Kazakhstan, dating back 70 years.
The candies are wrapped in funny candy wrappers with images of cartoon geese. By the way, it’s still a mystery to me: why are they called “Crow’s Feet”? I don't really see any connection between candy and goose limbs.
The caramel itself is light brown in color. You don’t have to worry about the safety of your teeth! The caramel just crumbles when you bite into it, and it's not hard at all. The filling is made from vegetable fat and contains cocoa and chopped nuts.
100g of product contains:
Protein 1.8 g
Fat 9.8 g
Carbohydrates 85.0 g
Energy value 421 kcal
The composition of the caramels, of course, is not without coloring and flavoring, but it does contain grated almonds. So that's why these sweets are so delicious!
Ingredients: sugar, molasses, grated almonds, cocoa mass, vegetable fat, emulsifier - soy lecithin; vanilla flavoring – identical to natural; food coloring E122.
You can buy "Crow's feet" by weight in many stores.
The first time I heard this: everyone who has at least once in their life enjoyed the caramel “Crawfish necks” can consider themselves part of a royal meal.
These candies, and together with them “Crow’s Feet” and “Duck’s Nose”, were the signature product of Alexey Abrikosov’s confectionery factories. During Soviet times, factories were nationalized, signs were changed, but the most popular candies retained their recipes and even names. And Abrikosov was, by the way, a supplier to the Court of His Imperial Majesty. Although, most likely, another signature Abrikosov treat - glazed fruits - was served at the imperial table as a dessert.
Alexey Ivanovich Abrikosov.
The factory trade partnership "A.I. Abrikosov's Sons" competed with another well-known confectionery company - "Einem". German citizen Ferdinand Einem came to Moscow in 1850 and made his first capital by supplying sawn sugar to the army during the Crimean War. In peacetime, he started confectionery production. Against the backdrop of the mechanized production of Einem firms, Alexey Abrikosov looked like a lone artisan. Abrikosov acquired the first steam generator with a capacity of 12 horsepower for his confectionery production only in 1873, and before that everything in his workshop was done by hand.
However, just ten years later, Abrikosov surpassed his competitors, bringing his annual turnover to 1.8 million rubles, opening several factories, a network of his own stores and wholesale warehouses. Abrikosov's branded stores were located on Tverskaya and Nevsky Prospects, Khreshchatyk and Deribasovskaya.
In addition to the well-known caramel “Cancer necks” invented by Abrikosov, they sold “Duck nose for coughs”, marmalade “Lilliput” and “Tsarsky”, candies for balls and weddings, coffee, cocoa, figured pies, cakes, gingerbreads, cookies, biscuits, jam, marshmallows of different varieties, with apple and mountain ash being especially popular. Abrikosov spared no expense on advertising his product. On the new year, 1880, a message appeared in Moscow newspapers that in one Abrikosov store only blondes worked as saleswomen, and in another - only brunettes. The townsfolk, already accustomed to the fact that the “chocolate king” is always coming up with something, went to check if this was actually true. Naturally, while we were looking closely, we seized our interest with the famous Abrikosov sweets.
It must be said that Abrikosov was very attentive to the candy wrappers - candy wrappers. They usually depicted beautiful women, children or animals.
Everyone knew Abrikosovo's cute hares, squirrels, ducks and herons. “Crow's feet”, “Duck noses”, “Crawfish necks” - all these are candies with a hundred-year history.
A special theme on candy labels is historical. On the candy wrappers one could see the victorious battles of the Russian army, for example, in the Patriotic War of 1812. They could even be used to study history.
There was even a series of “ethnographic chocolate” produced, the labels and inserts of which depicted residents of various regions of Russia and the world in national clothes.
As mentioned, advertising inserts were also produced. Colorful posters were used with smiling children offering candy, marshmallows and chocolate, postcards in boxes of chocolates with riddles and puzzles in Christmas and Easter sets. There were even entire series of inserts and labels dedicated to famous artists, cultural figures and scientists.
The partnership won twice at the All-Russian art and industrial exhibitions in Moscow. These cards are one of the first examples of the use of children's photographs in advertising, because children are the main consumers of all kinds of sweets, and the joy with which they showed memorable dates in the history of the enterprise forced their parents to associate their memories of a happy childhood with the Abrikosov factory.
People then kept colorful postcards and boxes for a long time and, therefore, kept in their house a kind of advertisement for the chocolate miracles they had once eaten.
To win the competitive war, Alexey Ivanovich prepared a “secret weapon” - chocolate-coated fruits. It was an overseas French delicacy, the recipe of which was jealously guarded. Abrikosov swung at the “sacred”. It was necessary to establish production. For glazing, special fruits were needed, grown where there is a lot of sun and relatively low air humidity. The ideal place was Crimea. It was there that Alexey Abrikosov decided to build a plant, especially since the railway came to Simferopol in 1874.
All the details of the operation carried out by Alexey Abrikosov were so thought out that the competitors did not suspect anything for a long time, and when they saw the light, it was already too late. Alexey Ivanovich officially handed over the Moscow factory to his eldest sons - Nikolai and Ivan. Meeting merchants he knew, he threw up his hands - he had already lived on earth for half a century, it was time to know the honor. To justify his long absences from Moscow, Abrikosov spread a rumor that he intended to engage in the tea trade, and was going to transport it from China itself. By the way, Abrikosov’s biographers now seriously claim that he really brought tea from the Middle Kingdom. But this is not so - Abrikosov bought tea in London, preferring Ceylon.
And finally, Alexey Ivanovich acquired a small estate in Crimea. Ostensibly in order to take a break from righteous labors in old age, surrounded by children and grandchildren. The estate, however, was not by the sea - Abrikosov complained that he could not afford land on the coast. And it was in Simferopol. The place, I must say, was so-so. Abrikosov's son Dmitry recalled: “In the fall, my father took the family to the Crimea, to Simferopol. I vaguely remember trees covered with apricots, and a small river full of gypsies bathing.”
But the location for the plant was chosen very well. At that time, the entire floodplain of Salgir was covered with orchards where first-class fruits grew. Nearby there was the Petrovsky Fountain with clean spring water, for which they did not charge money. Finally, there was cheap labor nearby: if at Abrikosov’s Moscow factory workers were paid 45 rubles a month, and the working day was 10 hours, then in Simferopol people worked 12 hours, receiving no more than 15 rubles a month. But the Crimeans were incredibly happy about this too. In addition, at Abrikosov’s factories, staff were provided with tenfold discounts on products. Crimea was also good because, closer to summer, crowds of seasonal workers from nearby provinces flocked here. Seasonal labor exchanges have long existed on the peninsula. For Abrikosov, seasonal labor was very useful - from April to October the Simferopol factory worked around the clock.
The factory installed two steam generators, two machines for canning and labeling products with a capacity of more than 3,000 cans per day. A specialist who knew the technology for producing glazed fruits was hired from France at a great expense. It was they who brought Alexei Abrikosov not only wide fame throughout the Russian Empire, but also increased his capital - from every kilogram of glazed products (peaches, cherries, walnuts, lemons, tangerines, oranges, melons and watermelons, which were not inferior in size to Astrakhan ones) !) he had about a ruble of net profit (by today's standards - about $20). Moreover, everything went into business - non-standard fruits were used for puree, which served as raw materials for the production of jams, marmalade and marshmallows at the Moscow factory.
The conspiracy bore fruit - Ferdinand Einem came to his senses only when the delicious glazed fruits of Alexei Abrikosov, in no way inferior to the French ones, poured into the market. They were in great demand. In 1884, Einem also built a factory in Simferopol, not far from Abrikosovskaya, and also mastered the production of glazed fruits, but time was lost. He dreamed so much of achieving the honorary title of “supplier to the court of His Imperial Majesty,” but his competitor was ahead of him - Alexei Abrikosov received this title in 1899, and Einem - 13 years later. Not bad, because, for example, Nikolai Shustov, a producer of famous cognacs, waited 38 years for this.
To be fair, it must be said that in 1900, at the World Exhibition in Paris, chocolate from the Russian company Einem received the Grand Prix. Alexey Abrikosov also competed for this prize, presenting glazed fruits from Crimea at the exhibition. However, the French preferred chocolate - they could not admit that Crimean glazed fruits were not inferior to those made in France. Meanwhile, in the opinion of the public, the Crimean ones were even superior to them.
How did the Partnership "A.I. Abrikosov's Sons" begin?
The founder of the dynasty was a serf from the village of Troitsky in the Penza province named Stepan, nicknamed Obrokosov, i.e. quitrent walker. At the beginning of the 19th century, he and his family received freedom and founded a handicraft confectionery production in Moscow, becoming Abrikosov.
After the death of the founder of the dynasty, the confectionery workshop was inherited by his eldest son Ivan, who annually indicated in the book of declared capital of the Semyonovskaya Sloboda a considerable sum of 8 thousand rubles at that time. In 1824 his son Alexei was born. Everything was going great until in 1841, Ivan and his brother Vasily went bankrupt, and all their property was sold for debts.
17-year-old Alexey, having not completed his studies at a commercial school, was forced to become a messenger at the German confectionery company Hoffmann. In six years, the young man not only learned German, but also made a brilliant career, becoming the chief accountant of this company. In 1847, Alexey Abrikosov opened his “confectionery establishment in the city part.” Two years later, he married a girl with the name Agrippina, unusual even for that time. She was the daughter of the famous perfume and tobacco manufacturer Musatov. A dowry of 5,000 rubles was used to purchase machines for grating almonds and pressing monpensiers. In addition, a horse was purchased, on which Alexey rode daily to the Bolotny Market, meticulously choosing fruits and berries.
In 1872, the production of Alexei Abrikosov’s “confectionery” workshop amounted to 512 tons of products worth 325 thousand rubles. This was still incomparable with the turnover of Einem. But, as time has shown, the future belonged to Abrikosov. Alexey Ivanovich Abrikosov himself, the “chocolate and candy king,” was awarded the title of hereditary honorary citizen in 1870, and in 1879 he was awarded the title of Commerce Advisor and awarded the Order of St. Anne and St. Stanislav, 2nd degree. In 1896, he was awarded the rank of actual state councilor, which gave him the right of hereditary nobility.
The Abrikosov couple raised 17 children. They had 22 births in total, but five died in infancy. At that time, infant mortality was very high, but it was Abrikosov’s wife, Agrippina Aleksandrovna, who did a lot to reduce it. At least where she could contribute to this: at a Moscow confectionery factory, she created a free kindergarten and a “maternity shelter”, where the best obstetricians in Russia were gathered.
Over the course of a year, more than two hundred women in labor passed through the shelter, and infant mortality and pathologies were only one percent. After the death of Agrippina Alexandrovna, in 1901 the shelter was transferred to the city and received the name of its founder. In Soviet times it was maternity hospital No. 6 named after Krupskaya. In 1994, the famous maternity hospital was returned to the name of A.A. Apricotova.
Alexey Ivanovich himself spared nothing for his family and business, but he was reluctant to donate to charitable foundations. However, he readily supported commercial schools and, in general, was very fond of bringing talented youth into the people, lending money to aspiring merchants and manufacturers and helping them with advice. In addition, until his death in 1904, he was the head of the parish of the most famous Moscow temple - the Assumption Church on Pokrovka (the temple did not survive - it was destroyed in 1936)
Among the descendants of the Abrikosov family there was no one who would discredit the good name of the family. However, except for Ivan Abrikosov, none of them showed interest in the confectionery business. For example, Nikolai Abrikosov, a graduate of the Faculty of Physics and Mathematics of Moscow University, was listed as a member of the board of directors of the partnership, but spent most of his time in the laboratory. After the death of his father, he completely left for Paris, where he lectured at the Sorbonne, and in his spare time translated Tagore. Aleksey Abrikosov Jr., after the revolution, became a world-famous scientist, Doctor of Medical Sciences and a full member of the USSR Academy of Sciences. The grandson, Khrisanf Nikolaevich Abrikosov, in his youth was Leo Tolstoy’s personal secretary; another grandson, Alexei Ivanovich, became an outstanding pathologist and embalmed Lenin’s body; great-grandson, Andrey Abrikosov, a famous actor. Although in fairness it must be said that their heirs would not have been able to continue the business - in 1918 the Moscow factory was nationalized, giving it the name of Pyotr Babaev. However, for several more years on the product labels after the words “Factory named after worker P.A. Babaev” the following was written in brackets: “formerly Abrikosov”. The old brand, which guaranteed quality, helped retain customers.
Special thanks to Irina Torgashova ( nezyaika
) for the post with examples of Russian advertising before 1917 - I was very interested in “Duck Noses”!
The truth is, I never found out what it is)))
The history of Goose's Feet candies begins at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries at the Abrikosov factory. In those days, sweets were named according to the same principles as now: either poetically, or cheerfully, or in accordance with their taste and properties. This phrase seems too strange for candy, and strange things always give rise to legends. Here are the most popular ones. Do not rush to believe them: each sounds very plausible, but there is only one truth.
The Legend of Goose Fat
“Crow's Feet” candies are caramel filled with thick nut paste. In addition to nuts, it should contain fat so that the consistency is soft and melting. Usually these are solid vegetable oils, but previously goose fat was added instead, which made the filling especially thick and airy. That’s why the candies were called “Crow’s Feet.”
The legend of medicinal herbs
The first caramel candies were cough drops with extracts of medicinal herbs. Filled caramel continued this tradition; in particular, the nut paste in “Goose's Feet” included an extract of cinquefoil, which has been used to treat throat diseases since ancient times. Popularly called “crow’s foot” or “caterpillar”, it has an astringent effect and helps fight inflammation. The creamy structure of the filling helps soften the throat, and the caramel itself stimulates sucking movements, which improves blood circulation in the tissues of the larynx and reduces swelling. Over time, the herbal extract disappeared from the composition, leaving the original name as a legacy.
Another pharmacy legend
"Crow's feet" were invented as candies for flat feet and were initially sold only in pharmacies. The name appeared because of the special gait of children suffering from flat feet: they plop their feet like geese, especially when they run. The sweets contained special medicinal ingredients, and the sweetness was needed so that children would not refuse treatment.
Legend of the likeness
Houndstooth was one of the first caramel candies made with cocoa. Their ribbed pinkish-brown surface resembled the feet of geese, so the factory didn’t think long about the name. Bright and unusual, it immediately attracted the attention of buyers, so the candies sold out with a bang. Unfolding, many were surprised and exclaimed: “really, like crow’s feet!”
The Legend of Abrikosov's Cunning
Alexey Ivanovich knew well the price of bright and unusual presentation of sweets: competition between his factory and the Einem partnership forced him to come up with new ways to attract buyers. How to stand out? What to surprise? Come up with a ridiculous and provocative name for the candies. “Crow’s feet” are charming, funny and arouse curiosity, so Abrikosov’s stores attracted crowds of people wanting to buy these strange and delicious candies.
The legend of fashionable ornament
“Crow's feet” is a motley pattern on fabric consisting of cells with broken edges. At the end of the 19th century, it was very popular among Russian fashionistas, and the Abrikosov factory decided to use this motif. The relief that the conveyor left on the candies was very reminiscent of the popular pattern, so they decided to support it with a name in order to attract fashionistas and increase the popularity of patterned candies. Later, the technology changed, they began to produce caramel with a striped relief, but the name remained.
The legend of the “goose slippers”
Soft on the inside, hard and smooth on the outside, sprinkled with granulated sugar mixed with cocoa - this is how the famous candies once looked. Just like the paws of geese that were driven to market under their own power. To prevent them from injuring their delicate paws along the way, the birds were first driven through warm resin, and then along sand - it turned out to be something like a sole. The resin did not stick to the road due to the sand, and by the time it arrived at the market it was practically erased, leaving the geese's feet unharmed. Having once seen such a “shod” flock, Alexey Ivanovich thought that it was possible to create candies that would be tender on the inside, but hard on the outside, like frozen resin, and crunchy, like fine sand. This is how the idea came to “beat” the caramel, creating the thinnest layers of sugar in it that would crumble on the teeth with an appetizing sandy crunch. Grinded nuts with butter and sugar were added inside the layered candy, and the name was given in honor of the inspiration birds.
Drumroll
After you've almost believed each of the folk legends, it's time to reveal the truth. The name was actually invented by Alexey Abrikosov himself, but it’s not all about the medicinal herbs, the fabric pattern, or the tricks of the goose drivers.
At the factory, caramel was blown with a special tube, filled with filling and cut with a huge hot knife. The candies turned out flattened, looking like a duck’s beak. Initially, they were called “Duck Noses”. For what reason they turned into “Crow's Feet”, history is silent; perhaps this name seemed cuter and more attractive to Alexey Ivanovich than “Duck Noses”.
Be that as it may, there are no medicinal herbs or goose fat in these sweets, only crispy layered caramel and a delicate creamy nut filling. Enjoy your favorite “Crow's Feet” and keep a candy wrapper just in case: thanks to the mysterious and original name, they are especially valued among collectors.
