How to deal with a dog.
the text is harsh, but you need to know such things. to protect yourself, the child, the other person.

How to deal with a dog.
Well, first of all, you need to remember one important thing.
A stray dog is not a dog - it's a wolf.

Unlike cats, dogs are pack animals. And their hunting is subject to strict rules. Cats (small or large) steal prey, silently get up to throw distance and jump, aiming at the head and neck area. Only lions living in prides allow themselves to partially apply the methods of driven hunting. Having knocked the prey to the ground in a swift throw or jump, the predator finishes it off with a bite below the back of the head or strangles it, clutching at the throat. Among cats, only the cheetah chases prey, but it lacks endurance, and if the intended victim cannot be caught within a certain time, then the pursuit stops.
Dogs, on the other hand, prefer to drive game - to exhaust them with a long run, and their bites are directed mainly to the limbs. Unlike cats, dogs do not have powerful claws capable of digging into prey and holding it with a steel grip. The purpose of hunting dogs is to knock down prey and fall on the whole flock and tear. The dog grabs the legs and tries to knock down the prey with the weight of its body, and as soon as the prey falls, they tear the throat and stomach.

So here's the main thing. The dog does not rush into the throat, as a rule the bite goes to the limbs. You can't run away from dogs. And you can't let the dog knock you to the ground. And if you already knocked down, then try to fall face down covering your stomach and throat. A dog is not a cat - it will not be able to bite the back of its head.

domestic dogs It happens (albeit rarely) that domestic dogs get out of obedience. Dealing with such a dog is much easier. If the dog is domestic, she perfectly understands the intonation - if her tower has not yet been completely torn off, then the dog can be confused by a sharp, powerful commanding voice. Like "You can't sit, I'll kill the bastard!" To intimidate, stomp your foot. Do not portray a kick, namely, stomp your feet. For waving arms and legs a dog (especially a service-search dog) can be perceived as a command to attack. As soon as the dog hesitates, go on the offensive - slowly move towards it, stamping your feet and swearing loudly but calmly. Consider the hysterical-panic notes in the dog's voice perfectly distinguish. You can't fool them. As soon as the dog has run away from you at a decent distance, you quickly bend over, take a stone or a stick and throw it at the dog .. as a rule, this is enough to make it run away from such an aggressive victim. But keep in mind that you can’t wave a stick at the dog at the very moment when it attacks - this is a 100% bite. The stick is acceptable when you have already taken the moral upper hand over the dog.

Never dare run away from a dog. No matter how scary. It is necessary to leave the dog ready to attack slowly (but at the same time stamping your feet loudly), backing away or forward, keeping your eyes on it, not showing fear and all the time swearing loudly without panic in your voice. You can not make sudden movements, swing your legs and arms. If it’s very scary, it’s better to stand still and keep your eyes on the dog when turning. In the case of domestic dogs (and they do not run in packs), this is justified. Stand still, swear, stomp your feet, make scary faces at the dog, bare your teeth... you will gain time while the owner arrives.

Stray dogs. These are wolves. With all the ensuing consequences. Moreover, stray dogs in 90% are a pack, they are rare alone. In addition, unlike wolves, they do not fear a person and know his weaknesses. The best and most reasonable - if you see a pack of stray dogs ahead and you can't get around it - bend over and take a thick stick. Throw a few stones at the flock with cursing - here the attack is the best means of defense. And since dogs, unlike cats, do not hide prey and are usually seen before they begin to see you. And a man walking with a club and speaking in a threatening tone and throwing stones for them is less tasty prey than timidly making his way past. In 95%, they will try to get out of your way on their own. Well, at most they will swear in their own way at a respectful distance.

But this is all prevention. And what to do if you are in a bind and they are already biting you.
The most banal and most primitive but effective thing - ground red pepper in the face. You can wear it in a paper bag, when attacking at point-blank range, throw it in the face, breaking the bag. It is even more effective to pour it into a syringe for babies. You know such a small one with a fist. As soon as the dog squeals - beat with his feet, throwing him away from himself to a safe distance.

It is best to beat the dog in the most painful points: nose, groin, jaw. And better with a foot than a hand. Because it keeps the dog away from your face. Yes, and the kick is any stronger. It is permissible to use any improvised things lying around in your pocket - the same bunch of keys in the nose, eyes, etc.
Just keep in mind that the dog must be beaten! A strong crippling blow will quickly sober up the dog and force him to get out, a weak one will only irritate him. If you hit, then you hit. And beat until the dog rushes away from you with its tail between its legs. The thicker your clothes are, the more difficult it is for the dog to get to your body and cause serious injury, and you have time to spare. If the dog grabbed your hand, remember that you have two arms and two legs, and the dog has one mouth. Which is just occupied by your hand and you have a fucking advantage. At that moment when the dog hangs on your hand, its head, eyes, ears, nose are not protected. And you can nail it with your fist, fingers, whatever comes to hand. Hit in the open stomach with a knee or other hand, and with the same keys you can pierce the stomach and chest. Kick in the groin. Hit the fingers of your free hand in the eyes, here they are in front of you. You can hit with a tightly clenched fist on the upper jaw clinging to your hand. In dogs, it is very fragile and can break easily. And the pain shock from a broken nose and upper jaw is enough to sober up the most furious dog. If you managed to catch the moment when the dog jumps on your hand - substitute your elbow - you will have a wonderful lever that does not allow the jaws to close, and if you also push it down the throat, the dog can dislocate the jaw and break the throat from the inside. if the dog seized the hand and your hand is in the mouth - cling to the tongue and with all your foolishness push your hand into the throat of the dog - you will not kill so cripple the guaranteed. With fear, you can even tear off your tongue.
The main thing is not to panic. Even a couple of serious bites is not a torn throat and torn pieces of meat that will happen if you panic and give up. The main task when attacking a dog is not to succumb to fear and emotions. Only in this way can you hit not just anywhere, but where you should hit.

As I said, the main task is to stand on your feet at any cost. Therefore, it will not be superfluous to lean with this very back against something - against a wall, a fence. column.
If you fall on your back, grab the dog by the throat and strangle it by pressing on the Adam's apple, pull your knees up to your stomach and knees the dog in the stomach. Remember that in most cases you are twice as powerful and heavier than a dog. If you rest your knees well on the dog, then turning over and straightening your legs with a spring, you can bend it along yourself and nail it to the fullest.

I understand that this is scary, but this is not a reason to surrender. If you lie down and pretend to be dead, you will perish. After all, you are bigger and heavier. So fight on!!! From aggressive defense, the dog, especially alone, sooner or later folds. And a weak-willed person will be devoured and will not choke!

What if they attack someone? In general, the most effective thing that can disperse even a huge flock in a split second is water.
A lot. I remember a miscarriage pit bull ran into our porch, but it was aggressive and no one could not enter or exit. Then I wanted to go out, and climbing through the window of the neighbor's apartment (as the other tenants did all morning) was somehow not comme il faut. A bucket of boiling water thrown on the male from the height of the second floor solved the problem within a second. He already knocked out the door with his head flying out into the street. Che before no one thought of I do not know? Boiling water, by the way, if you drive away a pack attacking another person is more effective than an ice shower. For a well-scalded dog and a wet dog are two different things. Just do not pour the whole bucket on the one you are actually protecting. But it is better to scald dogs with boiling water in winter, when clothing will better protect the victim from even a small but hot shower. In summer, it is still better to use cold water and preferably under pressure (from a hose) or a large bucket.
A great thing for dispersing a pack, as I saw today, is a large snow shovel. It has a large working surface area and can serve as both a shield for you and a good tool for stunning the dog. From such a size of iron, horseradish dodge. It is also good to use objects of large area and slaughter for overclocking, such as a stool, a bench, a large bucket lid, a metal bowl for jam. If not every dog is afraid of a stick in his hand, then a weighty stool is simply an excellent means of mass destruction.
Whip - but you need to know how to use a whip and it should be a whip and not a rope. Hard leather whip of sufficient length with a weighting agent at the end.
Well, if there is no whip, then we make a yo-yo (bludgeon), take a rope, tie a stone or piece of iron and go. You just need to hit with such a thing with a guy and, by inertia, you can’t hit yourself on the back of the head by inertia.

Fiso-Do: Martial arts, self-defense, security measures, physical and psychological preparation. How to protect yourself from an attacking dog

The dog is a weapon. With the owner or on their own. How to protect yourself in case of a dog attack, pain points, ways of protection. program of behavior when meeting with an aggressive dog. How to kill a dog. Various types of legal weapons. From the series of articles "School of Survival". This can be useful not only in a fight with a dog ...

Stray dogs and us

Unfortunately, recently the "pendulum of relations" between man and animals, which are called "dogs" in our country, is in the position of "dogs". Those. while the prevailing opinion is that "you can't touch a dog." None and under no circumstances. Let it be a hotbed of infection, prone to rabies, multiply uncontrollably and extremely dangerous, etc. - to exterminate them and generally take any measures against them - "inhumane", "inhumane" and all that.

And this despite the fact that meat processing plants (and therefore slaughterhouses) are working at full capacity and new ones are being built (no one spares cows and pigs, moreover, their meat is fed to dogs), despite the fact that the number of stray dogs, potential and real sources of infection is increasing at an alarming pace, despite the fact that the number of bitten people is in the thousands, including those bitten to death, despite the fact that huge money is spent on the "cleansing fight" (and actually stolen).

Yes ... M. Bulgakov really scared us with his Sharikov, who worked in the "cleaning department", directly developed an innate reflex of hatred for those who catch stray animals and seek to protect us from infections and attacks by rabid and semi-mad dogs. If the epidemiologist is almost a hero, then the person who cleans the city from entire colonies of these microbes and their carriers (and rabies, by the way, is incurable and it is always 100% fatal) is a "scoundrel", "flayer", etc. Obviously, something extraordinary must happen, for example, stray dogs will bite Luzhkov or his many children, or some other high-ranking official. Then the brains of the "protectors of stray animals" will quickly be put in their place by an appropriate directive, the pendulum will swing in the other direction, and the citizens will get a few years of respite from this half-mad stray pack.

The newest "invention" of a humane method of struggle - through sterilization, does not give any results (except for the possibility of laundering money - go check if this male is sterilized or not). The dog also wants to eat, is just as aggressive, can also become infected with rabies, and also attack a person. Isn't it easier to just give her an injection and she will soon fall asleep forever and without pain, seeing her happy dog dreams? It will be cheaper as well. The argument that stray dogs regulate the rat population by eating a certain number of them is simply ridiculous. Over the past year, according to the SES, the number of rats has increased three (!) times. Thank you, crazy compassionate old women, for our happy doggy lot. They stopped catching us, but we won't catch rats either. You have to chase after them. And in the garbage dumps, the contents of which are taken out not according to circumstances, as the containers are filled, but according to His Majesty's Schedule, given to us by God and signed by Himself (and therefore unchanged for centuries), there will be enough food for everyone. Both us and the rats. We survived the famine, but somehow we will survive the abundance ...

But until this happens (and it can happen only by chance), citizens are forced to defend themselves using improvised means. Below I will try to present some developments in this area and my thoughts.

Options

Whether you like it or not, you come into contact with dogs one way or another. Stray dogs, unless they are fed in your yard, are dangerous in two ways. When they are rabid and rush at everything that moves, and when they stray into packs of more than a dozen dogs with a strong leader at the head. Fortunately, these phenomena are quite public and do not exist in time. For better or for worse, sooner or later, both will be destroyed or scattered. But, unfortunately, these are the most dangerous cases. Even a single bite from a rabid dog or an attack by a pack of dogs is a very likely opportunity to quickly and painfully end one's life either in a clinic or directly at the site of the attack.

"Familiar" dogs. These are the dogs of your neighbors in the house, the entrance. Those. the ones you run into quite regularly in the yard and even the elevator.

"Unfamiliar" dogs. Those dogs that you encounter while walking in the park, jogging, and other situations. Perhaps you see them for the first and last time.

I introduced this division because it provides for different models of your behavior.

Dogs are pack animals, with a clear hierarchical pack structure. Leader and subordinates. Any disobedience is punished quickly and severely, sometimes by death. Therefore, in relations with dogs, one should rely on the psychology of dogs - she always wants to take the place of the leader, if there is even the slightest chance to do so. Such is nature.
From this follow the following conclusions:

Never fawn over a dog by trying to buy its favor with affection. Do not believe this nonsense of trainers about "love for animals." You can force an animal to do what it has not done for the next 5 million years either by fear of punishment if you do not, or by the desire to get food (i.e., hunger). Some exceptions are dolphins, but everything is different there. If you curry favor with a dog (even your own), she will immediately understand that she is the Owner. And it will be almost impossible to convince her otherwise.
If the contact is one-time, and you do not want to position yourself in relation to her, behave like a being from another world. For example, a bird in a tree. Those. Show your dog that your life paths do not intersect with it. In other words - do not pay any attention to it (or at least pretend to). Do not look into her eyes, do not turn around in her direction (if the dog shows interest in you from afar, observe with peripheral vision). She is an empty place, and you are busy with your own affairs. Then she will not consider that you are encroaching on her territory, her place in the pack, you do not want to take away her prey.

General rules

Dogs are excellent telepaths. They feel your mood and state well, the presence of adrenaline in your blood. But adrenaline is different. There is an adrenaline rush of fear - you are a ready victim, you are afraid of a dog, and you are already ready to fix it. And there is the adrenaline of victory, the one that is present in the blood of the winner, the one that gives a feeling of delight.

Don't be afraid of dogs. Dogs are trained on a person (there are an insignificant number of them among those with whom you contact) and Untrained. To train a dog for a person is a very expensive pleasure and either completely frostbitten owners of fighting dogs or special services go for it. The second, however, you should not be afraid. If it comes to that, then this dog's attack is peanuts compared to your further problems. In addition, they are trained for detention, and not for extermination and gnawing to death.

Untrained dogs do not have the skills to attack a person. Serious injuries are possible only by accident - the dog bit your leg - you fell, hit your head on the asphalt. Usually everything ends with bites of the legs, arms, occasionally torso, face.

People can also be prepared and unprepared for defense against dogs. The worst option is an attack by a dog trained on a person on an unprepared person or child. The likelihood of a fatal outcome for a person is very high. The best option for a person is a trained person and an untrained dog. The chance of death for a dog is almost 100%.

If both "contactees" are unprepared, then, as a rule, it does not come to a fight. The bite will most likely be one-time and accidental. Most likely, everything will end with barking and screaming.

In a conflict between a trained dog and a trained person, the person almost always wins, although often with heavy losses.

Therefore, it is best to always be prepared for a fight with a dog. Even basic training greatly increases your chances of getting out of the battle without serious damage to your body, not to mention survival. As they say, be prepared. If you want peace, prepare for war.

The best war is the one that hasn't started

An attack by a dog on a person (if it is not a special service dog and not on the orders of the owner), is still a rare phenomenon. In 99% of cases, everything ends with angry barking and mutual threats. But if you don't want to win this lottery, don't buy lottery tickets.

Never tease dogs, do not shout, do not swing at her, do not provoke her to aggression. It is also impossible to sneak up, suddenly and loudly turn to its owner, behave aggressively, make sudden movements. Don't try to give your dog commands. Thus, you claim the place of the Master, whom she protects. Any of these actions for a dog means an attack on her, the owner, the territory. And, of course, it will cause a defensive response.

Do not expect to intimidate the dog, especially if he is with the owner. Only a downtrodden single stray dog can be intimidated. She has certainly suffered a lot from people and she herself does not want to come into contact with them once again. It is extremely difficult to intimidate a dog "with the owner", he will work out his bread, as a watchman and security guard, to the end. It's easier to kill him or incapacitate him in some other way than to intimidate him.

Therefore, the best way to avoid conflict is not to provoke it yourself.

stray dogs

If you see that the flock has spread out in the middle of the road, it is better to cross calmly and ahead of time to the other side. No need to try to take the place of the leader of this pack. Do not tempt fate and do not drag lottery tickets. Since the flock is lying and not prowling, it means that it is not on the hunt.

If this is not possible and it is impossible to disperse, two behaviors are possible. One of them is to demonstrate complete indifference to them. However, a completely unmotivated attack on their part is possible here. Little will seem to them. Walking through a pack of dogs is an unpleasant pleasure.

Perhaps this is the only way when there is a reason to start a war first. Even on the approach, you should shout at the dogs in a loud and low voice, reminiscent of a growl. A dog is an animal, although it distinguishes articulate speech, it reacts to intonation. If you start with threats ("growls"), then you are ready for battle. And if she has nothing to defend here, she (they) will most likely retreat even after a scream.

You should defiantly show the dogs that you are armed - pick up (or pretend to pick up) a stick, branch, stone from the ground. Dogs certainly have unpleasant experiences with these objects and do not want to relapse. If the distance allows, you can even throw a stone in the direction of the pack, demonstrating the seriousness of your intentions.

familiar dogs

The best thing to do is really get to know them. You will have to live with them, as they say, i.e. collide constantly. Those. talk to the owner in a calm voice about the weather, his car, ask for advice about the dog (even if you hate this flea bag). Say a few compliments towards the owner and herself. In general, make sure that she smells you, remembers you and the timbre of your voice. Moreover, the friendly atmosphere of the first acquaintance is important. "The owner's friend is my friend (although not the owner)." Such a confrontation will greatly reduce the likelihood of conflict between you and the dog. But it will never reduce it to zero, sometimes dogs even attack their own owners, so you still need to be on the alert and feel the mood of the dog.

unfamiliar dogs

This contingent is the most dangerous, since it is “with the owner”, “on duty”, can be trained, etc. Some "dog lovers" - moral freaks, even like that everyone around is afraid of his dog.

It is best not to provoke conflict here. See general guidelines. Behave independently, do not encroach on their interests, do not make claims. Even if the conflict does occur, the truth will be on your side, you were not the initiator, which almost guarantees victory in the trial.

If war cannot be avoided

Learn "materiel". The dog is a strong muscular animal, weighing several tens of kilograms. Her main weapons are her teeth and fangs. A dog is not a cat, it does not pull its claws. The typical behavior of a dog during an attack is a jump, overturning the enemy, followed by biting. Some try to cling to the throat, some inflict multiple bites, trying to tear out pieces of meat. This is about a trained dog. They are trained to dodge blows, are very dodgy and agile.

The dog does not have many vulnerabilities, but they are. And if you know them, you can quickly neutralize any dog, especially using various "weapons".

The worst thing in a fight with a dog is fear of it and passive defense (falling down, covering your head with your hands, etc.) - in this case, you will definitely suffer and more than actively defending yourself.

So, what places on the dog's body are the most vulnerable. This is, first of all, the tip of the nose, the bridge of the nose, the back of the head and the crown behind the ears, the solar plexus, the ribs, the joints of the paws, the coccyx. Vulnerable places also include eyes, nostrils (scent), mucous membranes, genitals. These vulnerabilities must be acted upon mechanically (with a fist, fingers, improvised objects (stones, sticks, branches, dust, dirt), pre-prepared weapons.

It should be borne in mind that trained dogs and dogs of certain breeds (fighting) are accustomed to pain and it is very difficult to take them for pain control. Therefore, you should disable them simply mechanically - do not pretend that you are breaking your paw, but really break it. Do not press your knee on the dog's ribs, but jump with all your weight. Your goal is to KILL the dog, not drive it away or "punish". She has already crossed the threshold of what is permitted and must be destroyed. At least she won't stop and will even attack a dead person (she doesn't know if he's dead or alive), so you really fight to the death. And not virtual.

Psychological weapon

Some psychologists argue that many people find it psychologically difficult to fight dogs. Just as most people experience disgust and a feeling of disgust if a spider or a cockroach falls on them and an instant desire to kill them (although in our area these are the most harmless insects, and spiders are generally useful), so in a fight between a dog and a man, a person does not know how to fight a dog. Therefore, the main model of his behavior is passive defense - to close, run away, reduce his losses to a minimum. The dog, on the other hand, has a complete and overwhelming moral superiority in such a battle and comes out of it without any losses at all and is the winner.

In order to defeat the dog morally, imagine that this is a small, vicious dwarf man with sharp teeth who will bite, who has done you a lot of harm. But you must (and most importantly, have every chance) to kill him.

Morally, you must be prepared for the fact that, most likely, it will not do without bites. Some of the clothes will also be damaged. But the losses in any case will be less than you immediately surrender to the mercy of the winner. And if you are the winner, then the owner of the dog will start having problems. Feel free to assess your moral and physical damage.

Imagine the scene when you break her paws, ribs, choke her with your knee, tear her to pieces, her blood flows like a river, she squeals and tries to run away. Thus, you yourself will mentally prepare for the fight, and dogs - telepaths, will also "see" this picture of their bleak future. Behave like Tarzan, show absolute determination and readiness to fight immediately. Inject yourself with the adrenaline of the Winner. Moreover, it is necessary to shout it loudly and in an evil growling voice, "Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa! What will I do to you! How I have been waiting for this moment! Well, finally! Shout anything, but shout "scary".

In addition to the psychological impact on the dog, these cries will attract others. And the owner of the dog does not smile at all to have so many witnesses. Therefore, he will make every effort to prevent conflict.

Another psychological weapon is your behavior. Dogs are trained to ATTACK a person and defend themselves against his response. Untrained dogs act instinctively, as if hunting. And on the hunt, it acts exactly like this - they overtake the prey, jump, knock it over backwards and tear or gnaw through the throat. Her nature taught this for millions of years.

Another model of behavior - the victim stops and begins to defend himself. Then the flock surrounds her with a ring, and those dogs that are from the back attack. In our case, there is no pack, and you are always face to face.

What follows from the analysis of the behavior of the dog during the attack? It is necessary to behave NON-STANDARD, not in the way she expects. In the most dangerous case, a dog is dragged onto a person. Behave NOT LIKE A HUMAN, but like an unusual animal.

Never be passive by falling and covering yourself with your hands.

You should never run away - don't run anyway, a dog runs 5 times faster than a human. The exception is the case when it is possible to be guaranteed to be out of the dog's reach. For example - quickly climb a branchy tree, climb a ladder, enter waist-deep water.

By the way, the dog in the water is very defenseless. You then stand on the ground, and she floats. It is enough to dodge at least once, grab her by the fur, fall on her and dive with her or duck so that her muzzle is in the water. It'll all be over in a minute. Simply put, if she rushes into the water after you, drowning the dog, if desired, is as easy as shelling pears.

If there is no opportunity to hide, then you should take up defense, or even attack it yourself. For example, run towards her, screaming terribly, taking off her jacket (coat), waving improvised items (umbrella, bag, briefcase). Then the dog turns from a hunter into a game, which is unfamiliar to him, he was not taught this. Other instincts begin to work - self-preservation. Even if the dog is not afraid and continues to run at you, do not stop. If she jumps, dodge and give her a good kick in the groin or under the tail, hit the back of the head with your fist from top to bottom. A miss during a jump is the strongest stress for a dog, which sharply reduces its self-esteem - it has already lost one round. The main thing is not to let her knock you down during the jump due to her kinetic energy. But if after that it does not give up the active form of attack, the game goes into an endgame.

You need to continue inappropriate behavior that the dog does not expect. Immediately you need to take a stable pose and turn sideways to the dog. Bend your head down and cover your throat with your chin. If possible, take off your coat, jacket and use them to occupy the dog's mouth or throw it over his head, blind him. At the same time, you need to hit, hit, and hit on vulnerable points. If you managed to knock down a dog - a lying dog is not a fighter. Jump on it with your whole body and knee forward, on the chest, spine. If you manage to tilt the dog's head back, hit the base of the skull with your fist and break its spine.

If you are not a large person and the dog is large enough, you can even get on one or two knees for stability (but only after the dog jumps). Thus, you will become more stable and take your legs out of the blow - the most unprotected part of the body.

An important role is played by the possibility of disruption of the optical connection between the owner and the dog. Without visual contact with her master, she feels much less confident. Therefore, if possible, drag her along to the bush, behind the trees, around the corner, etc. The dog immediately loses the incentive to continue the fight. The territory is certainly not hers, the owner is also not visible, you are not a game ... What to fight for? In most cases, she will try to get out of the fight.

In battle, various types of "weapons" should be used. As they say in England, it doesn't matter what you have. What matters is how effectively you use it. Now about the "weapon".

Chemical weapon.

Dogs have an unrivaled sense of smell. He is their weakest point. If you force her to smell SOMETHING, then her desire to fight disappears almost instantly and regardless of her desire.

Dogs are practically not affected by various nerve agents from "human" canisters. But an excellent effect is given by pepper or mustard gases. Therefore, purchase only such cartridges or cartridges for gas weapons. You can use gas weapons against dogs from any distance. A dog, getting into a cloud of such gas, becomes disoriented very quickly. And if you manage to send a jet into the nostrils - the war ends immediately. This creature immediately has other problems, more important than you.

During the war, SMERSH workers used a homemade mixture (the so-called Cayenne mixture) to neutralize dogs. It consists of a mixture of ground black pepper and tobacco in a ratio of 50/50. When buying tobacco, choose the smelliest one. Both pepper and tobacco are additionally ground to a dusty state (for example, with a coffee grinder). You can also add mustard powder. This "dust" perfectly sticks and settles on any moist mucous membrane - the nose, nostrils, mouth, eyes and causes an unbearable burning sensation, and with an increasing effect. And unlike gas, which escapes, dust is removed only mechanically - by washing. Those. the dog is neutralized for at least a few hours plus further treatment. And if she inhales enough of it, to the state of a burn of the respiratory tract, with contact with the bronchi and lungs, then a fatal outcome is also likely. And the end will be extremely painful.

Store this mixture in a plastic cylindrical cup. In the outer pocket. Moreover, the lid must be both tight and removed instantly and with one hand, for example, with your thumb. Vitamin bottles are perfect.

Practice snatching the vial from the upper breast pockets and dropping the cap. See drill and other weapons.

You can also make powder grenades. For this, a New Year cracker is taken. It is carefully disassembled from the side of the release of confetti. Instead of confetti, cayenne mixture is poured and the cracker is sealed. The cord is extended up to 30-40 centimeters. If you expect "contact", then the free end of the cord is tied in advance to a loop in your pocket, belt, etc. Then it will be possible to activate this mini-gun with one hand. He took out - sent - pulled in the direction of the enemy. There is a shot with the ejection of the mixture by 1-1.5 meters. It should be remembered that crackers have low reliability.

"Noise" weapons

Dogs, especially trained ones, are not afraid of the sound of gunshots. Yes, and it is difficult to scare the untrained with an abstract loud sound. Another thing is to shoot her right in the ear. My grandfather slaughtered wild boars this way. The pig was not fed for a day, then given liquid food. At that time, she was not interested in anything else. Grandfather calmly put the barrel of a gun with a blank cartridge into the pig's ear and fired. Death has always been instantaneous. From pain shock and hemorrhage in the brain.

On sale there are various buggers and devices for firing gas or noise cartridges. Having occupied the mouth of the dog with your left hand, insert the barrel into the ear and shoot. The dog is dead

In principle, large firecrackers can also be used, but not for noise, but by making gas grenades out of them. For this, a cayenne mixture is prepared, a small paper casing is glued around the firecracker, where the mixture is poured (about one teaspoon). The casing is sealed.

When a firecracker explodes, a suspension of pepper and tobacco, gunpowder is formed.

The only drawback is that firecrackers are not very reliable and are difficult to put into action unless special measures are taken.

You should use firecrackers with an incendiary head (strike on the box - threw it - after a few seconds an explosion, and not with a cord.

Electric weapons

These are, you guessed it, electrical dischargers. Since the dog has a thick coat and a thick undercoat, the discharger should be slightly modified if you plan to use it against dogs. It is necessary to increase the contact needles to 3-5 centimeters. Fortunately, most vicious dogs are short-haired and it is not difficult for the contacts of the spark gap to penetrate their fur. If you have a spark gap with firing contacts, shoot only for sure, at point-blank range. The main place of electric shock is the neck and chest.

"Fire" weapon

On sale there are signal cartridges of the "Torch" type. This is a special composition in a case resembling a small grenade. The principle of operation is like a cracker - "pull, baby, by the rope ..." After triggering, the cartridge throws out a torch of blinding flame 30-50 centimeters long within a minute. If you lengthen the cord up to 20-30 cm with a reliable cord, and the cartridge itself will be worn in an accessible place, then put it into action - half a second and with one hand. After jerking, the cartridge turns into a mini-flamethrower. And I do not know such an animal that would withstand the pressure of the flame for more than a second. It is worth using this weapon only if the dog has come into contact with you.

I want to note that this cartridge does not require air to burn - it burns even under water. Therefore, he is not afraid of either wind or rain. But, unfortunately, the cartridge is disposable. And its action cannot be stopped.

A gas lighter can also act as a flamethrower. Once I came across a Chinese lighter (defective), which gave a tongue of flame 20 centimeters long. Well, why not a flamethrower? You can easily set fire to the aggressor's face.

"Iron Tooth"

Remember Mowgli? His fight with Shere Khan? "The tale is a lie, but there is a hint in it, a lesson for good fellows" (this is already Pushkin). Quite a lot of household items have a dual purpose and can act as an "iron tooth" - edged weapons. At the same time, the police cannot have any claims against you. Meanwhile, they will easily penetrate the dog's neck.

First of all, these are:

Pen. Let it not be a plastic Chinese tube, but a metal one, made of steel, with a pointed end.
Comb. Let it be with a long thin pointed handle. A la stiletto.
Screwdriver. Spatula or cross. Any with a rod length of 10 centimeters.
Nail. Length 150-200 mm.

A fairly optimal weapon is ... a pestle from a mortar, for grinding. From earthenware or metal. It greatly enhances the punch, and if you hit from top to bottom (which is natural in a fight with a dog), a skull fracture, broken ribs or a fracture of the spine are almost guaranteed.

improvised items

It can be a stone, a stick, a piece of asphalt, foliage, dust, dirt. None of these items should be thrown. Especially if he is alone. Hold the stone in your fist - a blow to it will be much more painful than just a fist. With a stick, you can keep the dog at a distance, and upon contact, you can break the dog's spine with it or poke it in the eye, mouth, or groin. A handful of foliage can be put into the dog's mouth, into the muzzle. You will cause a little harm to her, but you will gain time, you will be able to take a more stable posture, take an advantageous position. Dust and dirt can clog eyes, nose, make her sneeze. Only it is necessary to apply them "at point-blank range", in contact with the dog's muzzle.

Of the items at hand that you have, there may be an umbrella, a bag, a bag, clothes ... You should not use an umbrella like a club, it is not effective. An umbrella works much better as a shield. Open and close it - the dog does not understand the essence of things. For her, even paper is an insurmountable barrier if she does not see the goal. And the suddenly changing geometric dimensions of the victim simply confuse her. Consider the Incas, Mayans and Aztecs. When they first saw a rider on a horse, they thought he was half animal, half human. And they were horrified when the rider dismounted - the animal was divided. The dog (any) is simply frightened if the dome of the umbrella suddenly swings open in front of it.

The bag can "occupy" the dog's mouth. If you hit her in the face, on the nose, the dog will reflexively seek to bite her. Let her grab the bag. When she grabs it, pull it towards you with all your might. The dog will try to keep it. Take the bag aside, divert attention and kick the dog. If possible, knock over the dog, fall on it with your whole body.

If you manage to take off your jacket or coat, use it to distract the dog like a shield. Try to throw a coat over the dog, blind him and make it difficult for him to move. If you succeeded, fall on her with all your weight. If it was not possible to remove the coat completely, try to free half the left sleeve. Use it as a "stand" to occupy the dog's mouth. The right, free hand can strike.

If there is no dog "at hand", train without it. If you are shy - at the dacha in an open field, in the forest. In the end, just practicing a strike is already a great thing. You also need to know how to hurt. If you are not training alone, the role of the dog can be played by a partner (alternately).

In any case, you must be mentally prepared for a fight with a dog. Many people simply become numb if the dog pounces on them and go into a deaf defense, which consists in dodging the dog and plaintive cries. They do not even think about active defense, let alone attack.

Remember, a trained person can kill a dog, or at least neutralize it by knockout, almost instantly. For example, with a counter punch to the nose, to the back of the head, to the bridge of the nose. He can take her under pain control with a simultaneous blow to the eyes with his fingers, a blow to the solar plexus, plug or tear out her nostrils with his fingers. A dog can take control of a person in rare cases, and then if he is absolutely unprepared.

Therefore, you must be morally stronger than the dog, feel like the master of the situation. Dogs feel it too. Your ideology should be "I will do with you whatever I want, and you will only do with me what I allow you."

Consequences

During a fight with a dog, in no case take care of "branded" clothes, things, etc. their cost is a mere trifle compared to the cost of quality treatment for bites. In addition, their cost, plus non-pecuniary damage, can be recovered through the court from the owner of the dog. It would be very stupid if you find yourself badly bitten due to the fact that you "cherished" your favorite jacket. You have ONE life and health, and you will buy new jeans or a jacket for yourself and 10 more times. And at the expense of the owner of the dog.

Any fact of a dog attacking a person (independently or at the instigation of the owner) is an emergency. In no case should such incidents be left without consequences. Even if the owner claims that it was you who teased his dog, the dog in a public place must be on a leash and muzzled. The maximum that she is allowed to do is to poke around at the one who teases her. Here in the owner's apartment, let her even walk on the ceiling and on his head. But not in a public place.

Even if someone's dog just barked at you, this is already a THREAT, and a reason to contact the police, and the court, a deputy, the SES, etc. The first 5 of your statements may not be noticed. But the water wears away the stone...

Moreover, if your path lies through a "dog playground" where you could potentially be attacked, write letters. And send them by registered order and with notification. In all instances, even up to the President of the Russian Federation. Those who create problems for other citizens should have problems, and not vice versa. And do not listen to the "protectors of animals" - in civilized Europe there are a lot of cities where it is simply FORBIDDEN to keep dogs at all, by law. Do you want a dog? - live in the village. Do you love a dog? - love! But the rest of her love is not required! Your dog is your problem. And try to make sure that no one gets in trouble because of your dog.

One of the greats said: "The more I get to know people, the more I love dogs." There is, of course, some truth to this. But he loves HIS dogs, not dogs in general. Yes, some people are bastards. But dogs are just animals, they don't obey the law, they obey only their instincts and reflexes. And therefore it is necessary to treat them like animals, and not "make an idol out of them." Even if they are very expensive in terms of money.

Special physical training

Sometimes on the streets of the city at night you can meet hooligans who enjoy baiting a person with a dog. As a rule, this kind of thrill-seekers do not go for a walk alone. Friends usually act as ordinary spectators, but they can also take part in the persecution. A previously enraged dog is not let off the leash until the victim understands the intentions of the attackers and is frightened.

As for service dogs, only an exceptionally hardened person can withstand a duel with them. If the dog is trained, then it attacks a person from behind or from the side, grabbing its teeth into any limb. Most often it is the elbow or shoulder. If the animal has been specially trained, then it will attack from the front and grab the arm with the weapon first of all, it will try to get to the face, neck or groin.

A large dog is capable of knocking a person down or throwing him over himself. Medium-sized dogs jump on a person with all four paws, thus trying to knock him down. They may also strike a person with their head under the knees for this purpose. Light dogs are very jumpy and are considered the most agile. They cling to a person and hang on him. There are dogs trained in such a way that they wrap the captured hand of a person back, and in this state, practically blindly, one has to fight with them, which in this situation seems extremely difficult.

When a dog attacks, first of all, one should not give free rein to natural fear. A frightened person is an easy prey for an animal. It is best to imagine that it is not a dog that is attacking, but a short and vicious person. We must be prepared to endure the pain of the bites. Knowledge of the most necessary rules in this case will not hurt either.

The face, neck and wrists, as well as the inside of the elbow joints, groin and tendons on the legs, should be protected from bites. In these places, large blood loss and loss of mobility are possible.

If a well-trained dog attacks, it must not see the weapon in the human hand until the last moment, otherwise the animal will rush to this hand. It is best to hide the weapon behind a belt, in a pocket or sleeve. A stone or stick can be held behind your back or hidden under a jacket thrown over your arm. Block the weapon with your elbow and palm. In the event that the dog already noticed the weapon, you need to try to confuse it by throwing the weapon from one hand to the other.

When attacked by a dog, you should take a stable low stance (legs should be bent), otherwise the animal will be knocked down. The knees should be brought together at different levels so that the dog cannot cling to the groin. It is permissible for one knee to rest on the ground. If the dog managed to knock down the victim, you need to quickly, with a jerk, get to your feet without the help of hands, because the hands will be needed for defense.

If the attacking dog is not specially trained to attack a person, then you can try to deceive it by depicting immobility and helplessness. You can take a kneeling position and freeze, but make sure that your arms and legs do not protrude forward. In extreme cases, you can fall on your stomach or back. Sometimes, in such extreme situations, the image of a ferocious aggressive dog helps, when a person gets on all fours, facing the dog, grins and growls. Sometimes this tactic works, the animal cannot withstand the psychological pressure and retreats.

If the attacking dog crept silently and managed to be found behind him at the last moment, you should immediately take a low fighting stance at a walk. In this case, there is no time left for a reversal. You should sit down sharply in a step and turn around three-quarters.

If the dog is not yet attacking, but only threatening, then you can try to leave: very slowly and smoothly, without noise and sudden movements, you need to move towards the exit, fence or tree.

When attacking a dog, you can put forward a hand wrapped in a jacket. The fact is that in the process of training dogs are specially accustomed to a very specific place of grip. You can hang a jacket in front of the dog, imitating the bullfighter in front of the bull. In this case, the dog will grab the edge of the jacket closest to it, after which another piece of clothing can be thrown over its head and strangled.

When attacking a dog, do not make direct movements with your hands. It is better to make circular movements that confuse the animal.

When fighting with a dog, the movements should be as fast as possible so that the dog does not have time to cling to the limbs.

Any hand-to-hand fighting techniques are effective against a dog. We must act in the same way as against a person. It is better to beat with elbows, knees, ribs of the palms, feet, fists and forearms. It’s probably not worth hitting only with your head, unless it’s already impossible to use your hands and feet. Strikes should be combined with exciting and suffocating techniques. If the animal is small in size, it must be torn off the ground and hit with its head against stones and other hard and sharp objects. Blows should be applied to the most vulnerable places on the dog's body. This is, first of all, the base of the skull, the spine, the angle of the jaw directly under the ear, the ears, when twisted, which can break the cartilage, the transition from the forehead to the muzzle and nose, the forehead itself. It is here that you need to beat in the first place or squeeze these places.

Vulnerabilities of the dog:
1 - tip of the nose;
2 - bridge of the nose;
3 - transition from muzzle to forehead;
4 - base of the skull;
5 - middle of the back;
6 - ischial tubercle;
7 - hock;
8 - stomach;
9 - solar plexus;
10 - wrist.

You should try to force the dog to change the direction of its movement, and even better - to knock it down. To do this, you need to strongly push the animal in the area of the shoulder blade, hit in the chest or in the neck. If the dog hangs on its back, first of all you should try to "crush" it and for this purpose fall sharply on its back. You can try to trample the dog. Fall on her back with your knees, at the same time, squeezing her neck in the grip. The final, so-called dead hold, can only be successfully carried out as a result of a series of short jerky holds. With jerky grips, the dog is wound in a circle from side to side, and then, having seized a favorable moment, a dead grip on the animal's neck is carried out.

You should try to stick an object into the teeth of the animal. It can be, for example, a jacket or an umbrella. At the same time, a jerky grip is carried out with the free hand or they are beaten at the base of the skull. After that, the second hand can also be released, which will make it possible to carry out a dead grip. Effective impact on pain points and squeezing paws.

Sometimes the dog's head is clamped into a forearm lock, which is often used as a technique in various martial arts. The forearm should squeeze the neck at the moment when the brush of the same hand holds the forearm of the second hand. The second hand at this time is pressed on the skull or mouth in the direction of the first forearm.

Tear gas canisters often help in the fight against the dog. If there is no can, then you can carry a cayenne mixture with you, which contains equal amounts of ground shag and pepper. Nevertheless, it must be admitted that the most reliable means in the fight against a dog is a bullet, poison or one's own dog.

You, not suspecting anything, are walking down the street, and suddenly a growling dog rushes towards you ... The picture is extremely unpleasant and, unfortunately, very possible in our life.

In rural areas or in the conditions of the city - everywhere there is a risk of encountering the aggression of this not always a domestic animal.

By the way, in crowded places, citizens in the company of a hefty wolfhound are outlawed in many European countries.

In any case, a dog is only a friend for one person, for his master. How to be the rest in an inadequate case? Let's analyze the situation in detail, there are several options for self-defense.

Types of aggression

Conventionally, all variants of aggression against a passerby can be divided into the following subspecies:

1. The case when the owner of the dog deliberately sets the “pet” on you.

2. It suddenly seemed to the dog (it doesn’t matter, justifiably or not) that you are a threat to its owner, or you are encroaching on the territory protected by the dog.

3. You are attacked by an unowned animal in neutral territory. For the most part, this happens when your behavior indirectly irritates the animal (for example, dogs often rush at people who are running away, gesturing animatedly, being drunk, and so on).

How does a dog attack?

Front. The dog dodges the blows of a person and tries to bypass him from the side or from behind. After that, the dog bites on the arm or leg.
Behind (chase). A heavy dog, catching up, grabs a man by the torso with his teeth and throws him to the ground. A medium-sized dog strives to knock a person down by jumping with all four paws on him and striking him in the lumbar region. Light dogs jump onto their backs and strive to grab a shoulder, neck or hang on a person.

What to do

1. Never be afraid of a dog. Imagine that this is a small evil "man". You are higher and stronger than him - never give vent to fear, your self-defense depends on you.

2. Do not try to run away from the dog (never run away!), do not turn your back on the animal.

3. Specially untrained dogs are instantly lost if the owner leaves their field of vision or when the dog leaves its protected area. Therefore, you need to retreat so that the dog finds himself in a different environment than he was at the beginning of the collision. Without confidence, the dog becomes much less aggressive and is more likely to run away in shame.

4. As a self-defense option, it makes sense to growl at the dog, show her your grin, scream threateningly.

5. An effective technique in a very extreme situation, if the dog jumps on you from the front to grab your throat: put your hand in front of your throat, and as soon as the dog grabs it, the second one is superimposed on the back of the dog's neck. Then, sharply with a hand in the mouth, a movement is made from oneself, up or sideways. The hand lying on the neck makes a jerk towards itself. As a maximum, the dog's neck will be broken, at least - the excitement will completely evaporate.

For self-defense against dogs, any items will do: a stick, a cut-off bottle, and the like. An aggressive dog must be beaten on vital points, or in extreme cases, stuff all this into the dog's throat. The classic weapon is the club. Your own clothes are also suitable, you need to let the dog grab onto the sleeve of the jacket, then throw the jacket over its muzzle, thus buying time.

Vulnerable points of the dog, as a rule: the tip of the nose, the bridge of the nose and the transition from the muzzle to the forehead. It is necessary to hit the animal with a strong blow of the fist or club perpendicular to the surface of the head. While snapping the ears, paws, or tail and ribs, blows to the sides do not always cause the enraged beast to retreat.

6. The unleashed dog instantly rushes at the enemy, so it is very important to notice the moment of the attack and reward the dog with a powerful blow to the chest or stomach.

7. The dog's gaze is always directed to where it wants to bite, therefore, with a certain skill, it is not at all difficult to dodge and knock the animal off its paws. Everything must be done decisively, quickly and as strongly as possible, preferably in the area of the shoulder blades, neck and chest.

8. Never provoke a dog to attack, do not shout at him and the owner, do not wave your arms, do not approach unexpectedly from behind and do not suddenly start a conversation with the owner (especially in the evening). You can not stretch your hands to an unfamiliar dog, stroke and try to command it.

9. If the dog still managed to cling to you, then you need to know that there are notches on the neck under the jaw, on both sides of its trachea. If you put your fingers (thumb and forefinger) into them, and then squeeze them hard on both sides, then the dog will retreat. To begin with, it makes sense to study familiar dogs on this account, because in an extreme situation, saving pain points may not be found the first time.

We use weapons

1. Cayenne mixture: Consists of one part finely ground tobacco (the worst you can find) and part ground (preferably black) pepper. Pour this powder into a small plastic container (3 x 10 cm). Carry with you only in your breast pocket, never put in your pants pocket. In case of danger, pour it into the dog's face. Cayenne mixture was used during World War II in SMERSH units.

2. Ultrasonic dog repellent device. You can buy such a device today at any weapons store.

3. Tasers are very effective against inadequate dogs.

4. Gas weapons can serve as a good self-defense tool and deterrent.

5. Pepper spray is a good alternative to protect against an angry dog.
Always remember: when biting, you can’t let everything take its course. Immediately go to the nearest emergency room or immediately call an ambulance.

24. Defense from dogs

You are walking down the street and suddenly a dog rushes at you. Is it possible? Unfortunately, it's very possible. In any city of the CIS, hundreds of people who have suffered from dog teeth and claws turn to doctors every year. And how many do not apply?!

Dogs in modern times, the villagers and townspeople bred a huge amount. The times are difficult, the people are very afraid for their lives, property, rights. Therefore, who is armed with what he can. And the dog - it is all, from head to tail, a living weapon. Moreover, it is relatively inexpensive and does not require permission to purchase it. So other citizens walk under the protection of their wolfhounds everywhere. Even in public places. The latter, by the way, is prohibited in all civilized countries, but we, as you know, do not belong to them.

Of course, a dog is always a friend to its owner or owner. So there is only one owner. The rest of the people for any dog are more likely enemies than friends. So each of you needs to know how to protect yourself from man's four-legged friends.

Conventionally, all variants of dog aggression can be divided into three groups:

♦ when the owner sets his dog on you on purpose;

♦ when it seems to the dog (whether justified or not) that you threaten its owner, or encroach on the territory protected by it;

♦ when you are attacked by a dog without an owner on a neutral piece of land. Most often this happens when your behavior annoys the animal in some way (for example, dogs often rush at running people, gesticulating animatedly, drunk people, etc.).

In each of the three options, the dog may turn out to be either untrained or specially trained to attack a person. A trained animal is considered to be one that, first of all, instantly and accurately executes the commands of the owner (“guide”). Secondly, a trained dog knows how to attack and defend against armed people (for example, eludes a knife, a noose, dodges a aimed barrel), knows how to knock a person down and keep him in a lying position. However, a trained dog is less dangerous than an "uneducated" one, because in its actions it does not go beyond the limits of necessity. In addition, a chance meeting with such an animal is unlikely and just like that it does not attack.

Most often, we are threatened by ill-prepared (or completely unprepared) representatives of the Canis Familiaris genus. There are two reasons for this: objective and subjective. The objective is that qualified training requires the availability of relevant knowledge, a lot of time, patience, and money. Only a few meet such conditions among individuals. Practice shows that well-trained dogs can be found, with rare exceptions, only in the public service - in the police, internal and border troops, with rescuers. Some may object to this statement, referring to the numerous canine centers operating on a commercial basis. But either frank charlatans or "unfortunate specialists" whose professionalism is highly doubtful work there. All their "training" is the same "linden" as those "passports" that sellers in the animal markets supply with puppies. Competent dog breeders are almost completely connected with the Ministry of Internal Affairs, the KGB, the Ministry of Emergency Situations, and the army.

The subjective reason for the lack of well-trained dogs "on the street" lies in the field of social psychology. The more a person is unsure of himself, the more he is intimidated or embittered, the more he seeks to secure superiority over others. The "blue" dream of such an individual is to get himself such a dog that everyone around him shied away in horror. However, he cannot (and does not want to) train the animal on his own, and there are nowhere to find real specialists. Therefore, the business usually begins and ends with the fact that he buys, often for a lot of money, a dog with an impressive appearance. All her upbringing comes down to teaching two or three teams like “ours”, “face!” and “give me a paw”, but the daily attitude towards the animal is determined by the mood of the owner.

It is not surprising that a dog in the hands of such an idiot acquires quite definite qualities: it becomes unbalanced, naughty and aggressive. She gets out of hand easily and goes berserk even more easily, especially if she feels feared. You can be sure that she will bite not only the one to whom her unfinished master wants to prove something. She will viciously rush at anyone who does not please herself with something.

The ambitions of some citizens have gone so far that a stupid and very dangerous fashion has arisen to have at home the notorious "fighting" dogs (that is, breeds specially bred for dog fighting in the ring). These include bull terriers, bullmastiffs, pit bull terriers, staffordshires. Although these breeds are considered small, genetically they are killer breeds. They simply go crazy from the smell of blood, feel little pain, are able to attack for the most insignificant reason (he looked wrong, raised his voice a little, made a sharp movement) and is completely unable to retreat. Often they attack simply because they sensed a person's fear of them. Fighting dogs attack silently, immediately starting to tear the body. Gnawing a hand or biting a throat for these little animals is not a big deal. It is especially sad that they continue to attack even a person lying motionless...

It also happens that some scoundrels specially go out into the streets to hunt a person with a dog. The "exploits" they perform are later described in police reports as malicious hooliganism, robbery, rape, and infliction of bodily harm of varying severity.

According to their physique (constitution), dogs are divided into three main types: heavy (for example, Great Danes, Rottweilers, St. Bernards, black terriers), medium (German and East European Shepherds, Laikas, Dobermans, Giant Schnauzers), light (Airdale Terriers, Boxers, Pit Bull Terriers). Body type is important in the sense that depending on it, dogs attack differently and have more or less strength. Thus, heavy dogs are usually very strong, often much stronger than the people they attack.

There are two most common types of dog attacks. First- "frontal" attack, when the dog and the person are, so to speak, face to face (or muzzle to muzzle). In this case, all three types of dogs behave in the same way. Dodging the blows of the defender, they try to go to the side and a little behind him. When such an approach succeeds, the dog tries to bite on the hand, on the leg, or on the object with which the person defends himself.

Second option- an attack from behind on a fleeing person. There are differences here. A dog of a heavy type, having overtaken a runner, grabs his legs or torso with his teeth and knocks him to the ground like a bear. A medium type dog does not bring down a person, but knocks him down. To do this, approaching the runner almost close, she jumps on him and beats with her whole body (all paws) in the lower back. Or headbutting him under the knees. Light dogs are distinguished by great agility and jumping ability. They easily jump on a person’s back and, grabbing their teeth into a shoulder or neck, hang on it.

As with a "frontal" attack, and with an attack from behind, any dog uses its teeth at once with all its might. This is done in order to put the enemy out of action as quickly as possible (in 10-15 seconds), to force him to stop all resistance (and in the event of an attack by a fighting dog, to bite him to death without much interference). It is bites that people are most afraid of. In fact, a bite can be "held" exactly like a blow. Of course, not every one of them is harmless and always painful, but the pain can and should be endured, and as for the bites themselves, they must be turned into relatively safe ones.

In any bite, three stages are distinguished: grip, compression and thrashing. Compression follows immediately after the grip. Its strength depends on the depth of the grip, the size of the captured object (part of the body) and the strength of the jaws. The spanking starts half a second to a second after the grip. This is the most dangerous action of the dog, since it is during the spanking that the muscles and ligaments are injured. Therefore, it is better not to give her the opportunity to wag your body. To this end, provoke the dog to bite two fists or two forearms, pushing them deep inside the mouth at the time of the bite. The deeper the grip and the thicker the gripped object, the weaker the grip and the sooner the dog starts spitting out what it has grabbed with its teeth. To prevent her from doing this, point your fists down and towards the dog's neck. This will allow you to kick her for a few seconds without putting yourself at much risk. Of course, it’s even better if you manage to stuff the dog’s mouth not with your own hands, but with a knitted hat, a piece of stick, a glove, a medium-sized stone, a clod of earth ...

When attacking a fallen enemy, the dog receives certain advantages. Chief among them is that she has access to any part of the human body. Meanwhile, most people feel very insecure in the prone position, some simply panic. In addition, at the moment of falling and hitting the ground, a person loses orientation in the surrounding space for some time. If you already had to fall, in no case should you allow the dog to grab you with his teeth for any of the vulnerable places. This is the throat, neck, face, genitals, wrists, inner sides of the elbow and knee joints - all those places where there are large vessels. In particular, one should not stand on one's feet while resting one's hands on the ground. Your hands are occupied and you become completely defenseless. Learn to jump up without the help of hands, moreover, while maintaining readiness to repel the attack of the animal from any direction. One must also be able to fight the four-legged enemy on the ground.

Let us now consider the general rules of behavior in cases of attack by dogs of any type and any degree of training.

♦ First of all, train yourself not to be afraid of even the most terrible-looking dogs, their bared mouths, running saliva, angry growls. To do this, a simple but very effective technique was invented: one must perceive the dog not as an animal, but as a small person with sharp teeth. If you can view it from this angle, you will immediately see that the combat capabilities of any dog are much less than those of a person.

♦ Get used to the idea that, most likely, she will bite you several times with her teeth. Tune in to endure the pain, no matter how severe it may be. Your goal is not to completely avoid being bitten, it is more important to avoid any serious injury from them. Therefore, it is necessary that pain does not cloud your mind. Clarity, logic, speed of thinking are the key to success in all life situations, especially in extreme ones.

♦ Never try to run away from a dog, never turn your back on it. Always keep it in front of you, do not allow it to enter from the side and, moreover, break behind you. If there is some large object nearby that allows you to secure the rear (wall, fence, tree, car), slowly back away from it, without making sudden movements and without losing sight of the dog.

♦ Untrained dogs feel insecure if they lose sight of the owner, and even when they move away from the protected area. Therefore, it makes sense, if conditions are right, to retreat in such a way (around the corner of the house, into the entrance, behind dense bushes) that the dog finds itself in a different environment than in the initial phase of the collision. Having lost confidence, she (like a person) becomes less aggressive and easily takes flight.

♦ Dogs do not like to be shouted at, thrown at, or lunged towards them when the position of the person they are attacking suddenly changes. These features of canine psychology should be used for your own purposes. So, to protect yourself from a dog running at you, you can fall on all fours and growl at it, even bark (Fig. 345, a). Or abruptly kneel down, put your hands in front of you and scream angrily. In either case, the dog will stop or recoil, and you will get a few seconds of respite.

♦ When scaring away a dog with a cry, remember that it is best to shout at it like an animal, that is, in a low voice, drawling, threatening. Or abruptly and loudly, if the animal roar does not work. But in both cases, the strength of the cry should increase towards the end and it must be reinforced by a demonstration of your aggressiveness (threatening gestures, throwing objects, offensive).

♦ Use any objects at hand to protect against the dog: from stones and earth to knives and shovels. Depending on the situation and what you have, these items can be used in the following ways: a) keep the dog at a distance with their help (for example, by putting a stick, umbrella, bag, jacket in front of you, or throwing stones, clods of earth at the animal, bottles, cans and other things); b) put this object into the animal's mouth (say, the same stick or your hand wrapped in a thick scarf, towel, jacket); c) beat, stab or cut the dog (with a knife, stick, bottle, piece of glass, belt with buckle, shovel - whatever) (Fig. 344).

♦ On the body of a dog, like a human, there are several places of increased vulnerability (Fig. 343). The weakest among them is the tip of the nose. A strong blow with a stick, a fist, a bottle, or anything else in this place can kill even a large dog. In addition, the bridge of the nose, the transition point from the muzzle to the forehead, the base of the skull, the middle of the back, the solar plexus, and the abdomen are vulnerable in dogs. A traumatic effect at these points forces the animal to abandon aggressive actions.

At the same time, gouging eyes, breaking ears, paws, tail, ribs, blows to the sides, although they cause pain in him, do not always force him to retreat. This is especially true for trained dogs of heavy and medium type, and dogs of fighting breeds.

Rice. 343. Vulnerabilities of a dog:
1 - tip of the nose; 2 - bridge of the nose, 3 - transition from the muzzle to the forehead; 4 - base of the skull; 5 - middle of the back; 6 - ischial tubercle; 7 - hock; 8 - stomach; 9 - solar plexus; 10 - wrist

♦ It is quite difficult to defend yourself against a person holding a dog on a short leash. Moreover, he often diverts attention from himself with his beast (for example, to use a weapon). In such cases, it is necessary in any way (insults, imitation of flight, throwing small objects) to force the owner to let the dog go. A dog let off the leash immediately rushes at the enemy, so it is important to catch the moment the attack (jump) begins, and meet the tailed one with a powerful kick in the chest or in the open stomach. The dog flew off, whined - hurry up to him and kick a couple more times in the stomach, or with something heavy in the face, nose, on the back of the head.

♦ The dog's gaze is always directed to the place where it wants to bite its teeth, so it's not so difficult to dodge in time and knock it down, including at the moment of the jump. The pushes knocking down the dog from the initial trajectory of movement must be not only strong, but also fast, otherwise a bite on the pushing leg or arm cannot be avoided. Themselves, these shocks should be carried out in the region of the shoulder blade, as well as on the side of the neck or chest.

♦ You should never provoke a dog's attack yourself: shout at it or at the owner, wave your arms, approach imperceptibly from behind and suddenly start talking to its owner (especially at night). You can’t stroke other people’s dogs, generally stretch out your hands to them, you can’t command them. It is dangerous to even raise your voice to the owner: the dog does not understand the meaning of the words, but it perfectly feels the intonation of the voice. Special care must be taken when meeting dogs in muzzles or on short leashes - not a single dog owner will curb his pet just like that.

♦ Now a few words about the position of the defender. The legs at the knees must be bent and brought to the center. This position increases stability, improves protection of the body (especially the groin) and makes it easier for the dog to dodge jumps on you. The forearms of the hands should not be held horizontally, but vertically, then it is more difficult to grab them with the teeth (the dog makes a grip in a forward-downward jump). It is also advisable to wrap the left forearm (left-handed right) with clothes so that the dog cannot bite through the thick winding (Fig. 344-346).

Rice. 344. Use of garments to protect against dogs

Rice. 345. Postures of protection

Rice. 346. Weapon disguise

Try to make any movements with your hands circular. An untrained dog rarely manages to grab a hand that makes quick circles, in addition, on such rotations it is easier to deceive it. After 10-15 seconds of unsuccessful attempts to bite the hand, the dog most often stops the attack altogether. Of course, a certain amount of deception is required. They can be mastered by playing sticks with some familiar dog: you showed him a stick, and when he jumped, he removed his hand - and so on until you learn.

♦ It's even easier to expose your dog to items that he can grab tightly: an empty sleeve, a leather glove, a knitted hat, a gym bag, a raincoat. At the same time, it is important not to let go of this object from your hands, to pull it towards you with force so that the dog does not let it out of its mouth and switch to you. While she is busy bashing what you thrust her, inflict a couple of strong kicks (or something heavy, at worst with a fist) on the weak spot closest to you.

♦ When giving your dog a wrapped forearm, correctly assess the size and strength of its jaws. If the dog is of a heavy breed, with large jaws, you should not allow a bite directly to the hand. Loosely wrap the forearm, and at the time of the grip, pull it out so that the dog bites only the clothes. And pull this clothes on yourself, don't let it go. If the jaws are not very strong, then on the contrary, wrap your hand tighter, this will protect it from skin damage (when dealing with small and medium breeds of dogs).

♦ Against a dog, it is easier and more effective than all other types of techniques to use punches, kicks, and various objects. But there are also situations (especially when lying on the ground) when it is difficult to hit with full force, you have to grab and choke the dog, break his limbs, neck, ears, gouge out his eyes, pull out his tongue. Some options for actions in such cases are shown here in the figures (Fig. 347-348). I will only note that if it is inconvenient for you to beat the animal, it is advisable to capture it well. The best places for fixing grips are the ears (both ears at once), the throat (in front with two hands, behind with the elbow bend), under the jaw in the area of the cheekbones, behind the withers and the middle of the back (for dogs of light and medium types) with subsequent lifting off the ground.

Rice. 347. The most effective for protection against dogs are kicks, blunt and sharp objects.
Rice. 348. Painful and suffocating techniques are used relatively rarely against dogs.

♦ If you managed to carry out a reliable fixing grip, then the dog becomes almost helpless, and you get the opportunity to completely disable it: strangle it, beat it with blows on the ground or on foreign objects, break bones and joints, throw it away and at this time grab something sharp or heavy that you couldn't get to before. There is a very effective technique against short animals, which, however, requires some training. It consists in the fact that by bending the dog to the ground, you jump up and kneel down on her neck and back. Then one of two things is possible: you either break her spine with this blow, or lean on her whole body from above and strangle her with the bend of the elbow.

♦ The most prudent people can constantly carry with them a plastic container (for example, from under vitamins, 3 cm in diameter and 5-9 cm high) with the so-called "cayenne mixture". During the war years, this tool was widely used by SMERSH units. The composition is as follows: 50% shag (or finely ground tobacco of the cheapest varieties of cigarettes), 50% ground pepper (preferably black). If you pour this mixture into the face of any dog, regardless of its size (and to be sure, twice), then it will forget about you for a long time. By the way, this tool works great on people. So practice at your leisure in its use. It is best to carry the "cayenne mixture" in your breast pocket, in no case in your pants pocket.

♦ And the last. After the fight with the dog is over, carefully examine yourself. If there are teeth marks on the body, it is best to consult a doctor immediately. If this is not possible, then wash the wounds with your own urine using a clean handkerchief, and at home disinfect the damaged areas with a solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) or furacilin and treat the edges of the wounds with a strong cologne.

Of course, the recommendations given here are only useful when defending against untrained or badly trained dogs. To deal with determined professional dogs, special training and a “real” weapon are needed. But, as I said before, your most likely four-legged opponent is precisely an ill-mannered animal with an unstable psyche. So the chances of success in a fight with him are high. The main thing, as in all other cases of life, is not to lose self-control.