Preparing for the birth of a dog. How dogs give birth If suddenly your dog gives birth, what to do?

Pregnancy and childbirth in dogs. Whelping.

Whatever the breed and no matter how easily this bitch whelped before, she should not be left unattended during whelping. What kind of supervision is required depends largely on the nature of the bitch and her breed. Dogs that live in large kennels and do not have much human contact may prefer to whelp themselves and may often resent interference. However, such bitches should not be left unattended during whelping. While they are puppies, they need to be supervised, but not to disturb them too much after an hour or so. Bitches who occupy the position of a family member usually prefer to have their owner closer during whelping. And they feel better with his sympathetic attention.

So, you have already prepared a place for giving birth and keeping the dog with puppies, as mentioned earlier, it should be quite spacious, proportional to the size of the dog, with two compartments: a lounger and a place for walking the puppies, the exit should be made so that the puppies cannot go out, and the dog could, although it is better for the door to close completely; not all bitches are ready to spend most of the time with the litter. In addition to preparing a completely clean bed and whelping box, it is very important that the whelping area is well cleaned and disinfected. The bitch should be introduced to the new area and whelping box at least ten days before whelping. But if she is the type of dog that slowly gets used to change, she can be moved to a new place earlier - two to three weeks before the expected whelping date. In general, all preparations for whelping should be done in advance, taking into account, if possible, all contingencies.

Also prepare a “birthing kit” so that you have everything you need at hand.

Maternity kit :

– old duvet covers or large disposable diapers (60*90), on which the bitch will whelp (disposable diapers are preferable - less washing and more cleanliness);

– a lot of small soft rags ironed with a hot iron from old bedding (to dry puppies);

– sterile gauze wipes (usually unnecessary; the puppy’s mouth is dried with a piece of cloth, into which, in fact, the puppy is received);

– a pen, notebook, scales and thick woolen threads or ribbons (it is better to use floss, because the bitch simply licks and removes woolen threads);

– bowl for afterbirth;

– a box or basin for puppies with a heating pad (wrapped in a diaper) – this is in case the bitch behaves restlessly during childbirth and there is a risk of losing the puppies... the best option is a bitch giving birth with puppies at the nipples;

– sterile scissors and a medical clamp (it is not necessary to boil; at the onset of labor, place in a jar with any alcohol);

– a bar of milk chocolate;

– cinnamon powder – for gentle stimulation of weak contractions and pushing;

– an antiseptic, preferably a spray (Aluminum, Xydicol, Septonex) for treating the umbilical cord.

And alsopuppy resuscitation kit :

– cordiamine to stimulate cardiac activity (a drop on the tongue of a newborn);

– an oxygen canister (to give a weak puppy a chance to breathe), costs about 400 rubles in pharmacies;

– a small rubber heating pad;

- a small enema for sucking mucus from the mouth of a very weak puppy.

As for medications, during a normal birth they will not be needed, and if you had to resort to the help of a veterinarian, then he will have the necessary kit.

Necessary medical kit

– Homeopathic medicines: Ovariovit, Travmatin, Mastomethrin;

– hydrogen peroxide;

– glucose 40% – 2-3 ampoules – for feeding a bitch during prolonged labor;

– Oxytocin (hefetocin or mamaphysin) – 2-3 ampoules to quickly stimulate contractions or reject a failed placenta (as prescribed by a doctor!).

– No-spa – 2-3 ampoules;

– Corvalol or valocardine – 5-10 drops immediately after the end of labor to suppress “labor hysteria”, repeat every 4 hours if necessary;

– Calcium gluconate 2 ampoules;

– 1-2 ml syringes for injections if necessary (+ 5-10 ml for subcutaneous injections depending on the size of the dog);

You will also need a watch to mark the time of birth of the puppies and a notepad to record the details of the whelping (they will come in handy in the future), with your veterinarian's phone number displayed in a visible place. It is also great to have a scale for weighing newborn puppies. The puppy's birth weight, among other whelping details, should also be recorded in a notebook.

Bitches usually whelp between 58 and 63 days. Large litters are born earlier, and small ones a little later. In small breeds, bitches usually whelp three days earlier than the normal average. In the last days before whelping, you need to monitor the bitch’s body temperature. The normal temperature measured in the anus is about 38.5°C. Two days before giving birth, the bitch's temperature usually drops to 37°C or even lower. But since this does not always happen, you need to be attentive to all other signs of impending whelping. And yet, more often than not, if the temperature remains normal, then the bitch is unlikely to whelp in the next 24 hours. Before whelping, it is good to give the bitch a mild laxative to help her cleanse her intestines.

The most objective indicators of the last days of pregnancy are :

1. lowering of the abdomen. Puppies can be easily palpated and move (7-10 days before birth);

2. Relaxation of the pelvic ligaments, the appearance of mobility of the sacral bone (2-3 days before birth);

3. The appearance of viscous transparent vaginal discharge - the mucous plug comes off (2-3 days before the onset of labor);

4. A drop in body temperature by 1.5 – 2 degrees – 1 day.

It is better if, 2-3 days before the expected birth, you call a veterinarian or clinic, warning in advance about a possible call; in any case, the necessary phone numbers should be in a visible place.

First signs

A few days before giving birth, the bitch will probably refuse to go far from home for a regular walk, will begin to look for a place of solitude, and may refuse to eat. Many dogs, especially during their first whelping, become very restless and run around the house in despair. They often whine and moan. They start scratching in the corners or tearing up their bedding, showing with all their appearance that they are not feeling well at all. Before giving birth, the bitch becomes more tender and especially affectionate with her owners. A few hours before the onset of contractions, she often lies in a very typical position, the way dogs rarely lie - she lies down with her front legs fully extended, her head lowered between them with a particularly mournful expression in her eyes. She always looks pleadingly at her owner, it is noticeable how worried she is.

If the dog is whelping for the first time, it is better if you show it to a veterinarian 2-3 days before giving birth. A few days before giving birth, milk appears, especially in dogs that have already given birth, the stomach drops, and the top line sags. But it is necessary to take into account during the first birth and especially with small litters that all these signs may not be expressed.

Contractions

A few hours before the onset of contractions, the vagina swells, the loop becomes very soft, and a thick, sticky discharge appears from it, which dog breeders often do not notice, especially in small breed bitches. At the same time, the temperature drops to 37°C.

Puppyhood begins with a restless state, often accompanied by trembling, the dog may at times pant, scratch and tear the bedding in the box. This condition can last from one to 24 hours. Therefore, be patient, do not fuss and do not worry the dog. So far everything is going according to plan.

The stages of labor can be divided into three parts:

First stage - expansion of the birth canal.

Second stage - delivery of the puppy, when contractions are visible and felt, they last up to two hours during normal labor.

Third stage – removal of the placenta and membranes. They usually come out within 5-15 minutes after the puppy is born. Sometimes they come out with the next puppy.

The restlessness stage, which occurs at the beginning of whelping, is caused by an increase in intra-abdominal pressure. Uterine contractions at this time are still irregular and weak, so they are not noticeable. Between contractions, the muscles of the uterus relax and gradually the body of the uterus, vagina and loop expand. The pain is vague and unpleasant at the beginning, so the dog becomes more and more restless. She looks back anxiously, spins around in place, then lies down, but soon gets up again, clearly noticeable how unwell she is. Some bitches vomit at this time, almost all refuse to eat. Abundant mucous secretions appear from the loop, which lubricate the birth canal, preparing it for the passage of the puppy. Until the contractions become strong, regular and noticeable, they cannot harm the bitch or puppy.

Attempts

With an increase in the intensity of labor contractions, the second stage begins, when the contractions of the uterus - contractions - are joined by pushing - contractions of the abdominal muscles. At this time, the bitch usually lies down and when she tenses, she presses her back and croup firmly against the wall of the box. It’s good if she has a paw rest.

Most bitches whelp lying on their right side, but some prefer to whelp standing, others do this or that. Gradually, the water bubble with the puppy is pushed through the opening of the pelvis into the vagina. First, the water bladder presses on the cervix and passes into the birth canal, gradually the canal becomes softer and expands more and more, until finally the uterus, cervix and vagina form one wide birth canal.

During the second stage of labor, uterine contractions can be felt by placing your hand on the bitch's belly. Contractions become regular, strong, and the uterus hardens with each contraction and then gradually relaxes. In the intervals between contractions, the bitch relaxes, breathes heavily and looks absently. During contractions she may even scream.

The appearance of puppies

The logical conclusion of the efforts should be the appearance of a puppy. Gradually, the water bladder with the puppy, under the influence of contractions, enters the pelvis, and then is forcefully pushed further towards the exit from the vagina, passing part of the way with each strong contraction. The lowest puppy in the uterus emerges first; unfortunately, it is often the largest in the litter and therefore its birth is the most difficult. Often on this part of the puppy's path, when the contraction is at its strongest, the bubble bursts. Sometimes he appears from the loop several times and disappears again.

The appearance of a water bubble should not be confused with a harbinger of the birth of a puppy by a fetal bladder, and the bladder that appears from the loop during pushing bursts. This cannot be done.

It is easy to determine whether the puppy is walking by feeling the crotch above the loop. There will be noticeable swelling there - you need to touch it. If a bubble comes, it will be soft to the touch, but the puppy will feel like something hard and solid. After the bubble bursts, nature allows the dog to rest a little to gather strength for the last very strong, even powerful contractions before the birth of the puppy. These contractions are extremely painful and debilitating, accompanied by strong contractions of the abdominal muscles and diaphragm. All these muscle movements push the passive puppies until, finally, the first one comes out.

The puppy is usually born head first, back up. Gradually, the puppy moves along the birth canal, and its head reaches the loop. At this moment, the bitch has a short rest before the next contraction, which should push the puppy's shoulders through the opening of the pelvis, this is the most difficult moment in the birth of the puppy, after which it simply slips out of the birth canal.

Usually the puppy is born in a bubble, sometimes the bubble bursts at the moment of birth. While the puppy was walking along the birth canal, the placenta began to separate; sometimes it manages to separate from the wall of the uterus and by the time the puppy comes out, it can follow the umbilical cord along with it.

Placenta department

After the puppy is expelled, there is usually one more contraction before they stop for a while, this contraction will push out the membranes and placenta if it did not come out with the puppy. After the puppy leaves the uterus, it contracts in size, which causes the complete separation of the placenta and at the same time the compression and closure of blood vessels damaged during the separation of the placenta. The uterus contracts quickly and the cervix remains open so that the membranes and placenta are expelled easily and usually come out immediately after each puppy is born. Sometimes their exit may be delayed, but then the placenta will be pushed in front of it by the following puppy.

Not all dogs try to remove the membrane from the puppy and treat the umbilical cord. Of course, the bitch should be allowed to rest, but it is very important that the person delivering the baby quickly ruptures the membrane of the membranes near the newborn puppy's muzzle, otherwise he may suffocate.

If whelping proceeds without complications, then the bitch herself tears the membrane of the bladder with her teeth, frees the puppy, and then bites the umbilical cord. She should be allowed to do it all herself if that's what she wants. The exceptions are round-headed breeds such as bulldogs and Pekingese, some toy breeds, and any other breeds with poor teeth. Some dogs, especially those of disproportionately built breeds, have a hard time whelping and are unable to bend over and reach their loop until all the puppies are born, so they cannot help them at birth. In this case, a person must carry out all the processing of the puppy.

All bitches, regardless of breed, should be observed at this stage of whelping, as some bitches can be very rough with their babies, especially if they have not had puppies before. Some bitches pull the umbilical cord with their teeth even after they bite it. Do not allow the bitch to do this, as an umbilical hernia may form.

Puppies, as a rule, are born strong and healthy, their mother licks them diligently and rather roughly pushes them with her nose and turns them over. This is wonderful because it stimulates the puppies' vital functions in all respects, especially breathing and blood circulation. Thorough licking dries out the puppies and causes the first loss of feces. A strong puppy knows exactly how to reach the nipple, and some puppies reach the rear nipples and begin to suck while connected to the mother by the umbilical cord, that is, even before they are fully born. Sucking puppies stimulates uterine contractions and speeds up whelping.

Important to know! If more than 2 hours have passed from the moment the pushing began and the water broke until the appearance of the fetus, this is a reason to urgently seek the help of a veterinary specialist!

Puppies stuck in the birth canal, especially if the bladder has burst, will die without assistance, and can also put the health of the dog itself at risk.

Umbilical cord separation

If the bitch has not bitten the umbilical cord, it can be easily torn. The umbilical cord has a section where it is weakened and often breaks itself in this very place. The best case is when the umbilical cord is long enough and does not break during the birth of the puppy, and the placenta comes out with the puppy or immediately after it. In this case, you should first help the bitch free the puppy from the membranes and wipe it of mucus, only after that you can deal with the umbilical cord. The puppy should not be allowed to crawl, dragging the placenta along with it on the umbilical cord, as an umbilical hernia may occur.

Before separating the umbilical cord, you need to carefully “milk” the blood in it towards the puppy. This will be his last internal nourishment from his mother. There is no need to cut the umbilical cord - this usually causes slight bleeding, which weakens the puppy. If after the birth of the puppy the placenta is still in the birth canal, then, after squeezing out the blood, pinch part of the umbilical cord at the very loop of the bitch with medical surgical forceps. In this way, you can hold the placenta so that after the umbilical cord ruptures, it does not go back into the uterus. Now grab the umbilical cord with your thumb and forefinger at a distance of 2-3 cm from the puppy’s belly, and with the index and thumb of the other hand even further from the puppy’s tummy, about 2-3 cm. Keep the hand farthest from the puppy completely still. With the hand closest to the puppy, pull the umbilical cord towards the puppy and it will immediately break. In this case, the blood vessels stretch and narrow, there will be no bleeding and there will be no need to tie the umbilical cord. There is also no need to use any antiseptic and, of course, never iodine!

If the puppy comes out without a shell, if he is covered in blood or green liquid, it is very important to clear his nose and mouth of this so that he can begin to breathe on his own as quickly as possible.

Intervals

Most dogs whelp within 15-30 minutes of each other. Sometimes 4-6 puppies will be born one after the other and then if the litter is large there may be a 1-2 hour break before the next batch of puppies arrives. A litter of 12-14 puppies often takes anywhere from a few hours to a full day to be born, and can sometimes take longer.

When the bitch is too exhausted after the birth of any puppy and refuses to lick and stimulate it, this should be done with the help of a hard, heated towel by the person delivering the baby.

A delay in the release of the next puppy by more than 2-2.5 hours is a reason to call the veterinarian!

The afterbirth is everything that comes out with the puppy - the membranes, umbilical cord and placenta. Sometimes the umbilical cord is so short that at the moment the puppy is born, it breaks from tension and the placenta, before it can be released, remains in the uterus or vagina. After about 15 minutes, she comes out on her own or is pushed out at birth by the next puppy.

The afterbirths need to be counted and thus determine the number of afterbirths eaten by the bitch, and perhaps the number of afterbirths that did not come out at all.

Most often, the release of placenta from puppies that are born last is delayed. These pups may have occupied the far end of the uterine horn and are taking longer to emerge. If by chance the placenta or parts thereof remain in the uterus, metritis may develop, i.e. inflammation of the uterus and the consequences of this will be extremely serious.

If there is any doubt about the release of all placenta or the release of the last placenta is delayed, you need to call a veterinarian.

Important to know! If the afterbirth or dead puppy is not removed from the uterus within 60 hours after birth, the dog will die!

Newborn puppy

Immediately after birth, the membrane must be removed from the puppy so that it can breathe: this is done by the bitch or the person delivering the baby. The puppy usually opens his mouth once or twice, then begins to breathe. At first the breathing is shallow and rather weak, but soon it becomes completely normal. It is a very bad sign if the puppy breathes with his mouth open. Some puppies will be born completely dead, motionless and without signs of breathing. It is very important that the puppy begins breathing immediately after birth. As soon as breathing returns to normal, he will crawl towards his mother’s nipples with great energy, quickly find the nipple and begin to suck.

The first milk - colostrum - contains a mild laxative and it is very important that this milk gets into the puppy's intestines as soon as possible. It stimulates peristalsis and ensures bowel movement. A puppy's first stool (meconium) is a black, sticky mass that accumulates in the intestines before birth. It is important that the meconium passes as soon as possible, since until this happens, normal digestion cannot begin. When the bitch licks the puppy, she also stimulates intestinal activity. If a weak puppy is born, he has to be given additional help by massaging his tummy with a small piece of moistened cotton wool until he has a bowel movement.

Giving birth to a dog is quite a “dirty process”, so change the bedding after the birth of each puppy and after the birth of the placenta, do not force the dog and puppies to lie in a puddle and mud!

After whelping

As soon as the bitch finishes whelping, she needs to be given some warm tea with milk and glucose. During whelping, in the intervals between the births of puppies, she should also be offered a warm drink, as well as a small piece. The birth of puppies is a great test for a bitch. The amount of fluid that she loses through water bubbles and bleeding must be gradually replaced. She should not be given too much to drink immediately after whelping - she should be offered to drink little by little, but often.

After all the effort, the bitch will be very tired and to regain her strength she needs to be kept warm, not disturbed and left completely alone with her puppies for a while.

After giving birth, there will be some spotting for some time, especially noticeable in large breed bitches. This discharge will continue for a week or a little longer.

The bitch will have a rather weak stomach for a few days after whelping; this is considered normal, although if her stomach seems to be working very poorly, the bitch should be given a few tablets of activated charcoal. Strong medications should not be given because anything the bitch takes will be passed on to the puppies through her milk.

Meals in the first days after childbirth should also be in small portions and dietary. If the bitch is given too high-calorie food immediately after whelping, milk production can be over-stimulated and there will be much more milk than the puppies need. This can cause congestion of the mammary glands, and then inflammation, especially if the litter is small. Natural raw meat should not be given in the first week!

During the first week, the bitch should be taken away from the puppies so she can relieve herself, four times a day for approximately 5-10 minutes each time. In the second week, the walking time can be increased to 15-30 minutes. Walking stimulates milk production; in addition, at least minimal physical activity is needed so that the bitch gradually restores her condition.

After a walk, the nipples should be wiped with a damp cloth and dried, after which the bitch can be allowed to return to the puppies.

It must be remembered that at this time the bitch experiences great mental and physiological stress and it is better that no one disturbs her when she is lying in the “nest” with her puppies. Cleaning the box should be done in the absence of the bitch while she is out for a walk. In these first days, it is better not to allow strangers near the bitch; the owner should refrain from showing off the cute litter to his friends until the puppies are a little older and the bitch is no longer so nervous. The appearance of strangers usually upsets the bitch very much, especially if she is a very caring mother.

Here we have told you how childbirth normally occurs in dogs, but you should always remember that there are often deviations from the norm, in the form of malpresentation of puppies, narrow birth canals in dogs, large puppies, etc. This is especially true for owners of dogs of so-called “extreme” breeds: toy breeds, dog breeds with a shortened muzzle, giant breeds. It is important to remember that with all the deviations from the norm that we talked about here, you should urgently seek veterinary help, and not try to correct the situation yourself.

Childbirth is a process that cannot be stopped or delayed, so “waiting for everything to work out” is unacceptable in this case!

Materials from the article were used from the site http://www.zoovet.ru

It is necessary to prepare: clean soft cloths for drying puppies, a hand towel, sterile gauze wipes, iodine, hydrogen peroxide, bandage, cotton swabs, Vaseline oil, a heating pad, a small box for placing puppies during the birth of the next, a bowl for afterbirth, sterile scissors .

At the pharmacy you need to buy insulin syringes, oxytocin, decinone (hemostatic), calcium gluconate, sulfocamphocaine or magnesia (heart medications), do not forget a sedative for yourself.

It is imperative to prepare a birthing box with low sides. At the bottom you can put a thick mat wrapped in waterproof diapers.

During childbirth, you should not leave your dog alone even for a minute. You should always be ready to help her. During contractions, the bitch will begin to worry, and during breaks she may lie down. You must ensure that she does not jump from the chair to the sofa or from the sofa to the floor!

Keep a close eye on your dog's loop. As soon as the bubble appears, the first child will be born soon.

During childbirth

Do not under any circumstances try to break through or pull out this bubble. Observe the position in which the puppies walk. They can be born with their heads and hind legs first. If the puppy comes out with his hind legs, then he should walk with his paws down.

If the puppy comes out with its hind legs up, try turning it around. To do this, lubricate your cleanly washed and disinfected fingers with Vaseline, insert them into the loop and try to turn the puppy to the correct position clockwise.

If the head appears and the dog has stopped pushing, stroke the dog's belly with strong but gentle movements from the ribs to the pelvis. This should cause a new push.

If the pushing stops, and the puppy is stuck halfway, walking forward with his hind legs, your help is needed. To do this, you need to take a gauze napkin, wrap the back of the puppy and move it with a twisting motion in a spiral, clockwise and towards you. Don't pull the puppy, just move it! This should cause some pushing.

If this does not help, then massage the abdomen and, after waiting for the push, carefully pull the puppy out. Never pull the puppy without pushing, this can cause multiple uterine ruptures.

When the puppy is born, he needs to cut off the umbilical cord at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the puppy’s belly, treat it with hydrogen peroxide and iodine. Rub the puppy with a soft cloth, it should squeak. Give the baby to the mother immediately. Help him take the nipple if he can't.

As soon as the next attempts begin, the born puppies must be placed in a separate box and closed so that they do not freeze. On the first day, the temperature in their nest should not be lower than 28°C.

After childbirth

If after giving birth the bitch bleeds scarlet rather than brown, it means that ruptures have occurred and a hemostatic injection of decinone needs to be given. 0.2 cubic meters is enough.

When all the puppies are born, count the number of afterbirths. There should be as many of them as there are puppies. If you are still sure that one or more afterbirths have failed, wait a few hours.

If everything remains unchanged, give an injection of oxytocin 0.2-0.3 cc. If this does not help, and the bitch begins to have greenish discharge, call a doctor immediately!

On the first day after birth, measure your temperature. The norm is up to 39 degrees. If your temperature rises and unusual greenish or purulent discharge is observed, be sure to call a doctor. Delay can cost the dog his life.

If the dog eats willingly and is in a good mood, then the birth was successful and there is no need to worry.

Video on the topic

The birth of a new life is always extremely pleasant. But taking part in childbirth is a responsible and quite complicated matter. You need to be prepared for such an event not only physically, but also mentally.

You will need

  • clean rags, scissors, small boxes, soft rags, a heating pad or lamp (heat source).

Instructions

First you need to know that the gestation period is 62-65 days. Therefore, starting from day 60, you need to be extremely attentive to the condition of your pet. It is recommended to take leave during the last stage of pregnancy and for the first time, until the puppies grow up. The fact is that mother dogs differ, for example, from mother dogs in that a cat will never run over her kitten, but a dog, alas, can easily. In addition, childbirth is a very difficult process. Especially if it’s the dog’s first time, she has no experience, and it will be very difficult for her to cope on her own, which can subsequently lead to the death of the puppies.

To understand that labor is about to begin, you need to observe the dog. Approximately 24 hours before giving birth, the dog's body temperature drops (38-39 degrees). The dog becomes restless and tries to take cover and hide. By this time, clean rags, scissors, small boxes (preferably from under shoes), a soft cloth, a table lamp or a heating pad should be ready.

Childbirth begins with discharge from the female’s vagina, dark mucus appears, and after a while, pushing (or in other words, contractions) begins. By this time everything should be ready. The dog may start at night, but you should never leave it alone at any time of day. For a dog, the presence of the owner is moral support. After the contractions begin, after some time the fetus should appear in the vaginal opening. At this stage, the puppy is surrounded by a fruit membrane (bladder). Under no circumstances should you pierce it until the baby's head is completely on the surface, otherwise the puppy will choke on the amniotic fluid. After the puppy has arrived, it is worth helping the dog with the umbilical cord. To begin with, you can slightly pull the umbilical cord towards the fetus (but only very carefully, not with sudden movements), the placenta should follow the puppy. You can invite the dog to gnaw the umbilical cord itself, or you can use scissors to carefully cut it, leaving at least 2 cm from the puppy. It is advisable to let the dog eat the afterbirth, at least one from the entire litter. The birth can last from 1 hour to 2 days, depending on the number of puppies and the complexity of the birth. Don't worry if the puppy walks feet first - a third of the puppies from the litter may be born this way. In this case, the main thing to remember is that you should not pull the puppy and under no circumstances should you damage the bladder, otherwise the baby’s chances of survival will be almost zero.

After each puppy is born, it should be wiped with a soft, warm cloth, and the mouth should be cleared of amniotic fluid. Sometimes it happens that the baby has to be resuscitated - if the fetus is not breathing, but it moved during birth, perhaps it can still be saved. In this case, you should do indirect cardiac massage. It's quite difficult, but the effort is worth the life saved. To help the baby, you should put a soft cloth on your hand, which warms well, and with your finger, gently rub the baby’s chest, thus starting his heart. You can also try to pump out excess fluid from the lungs with a pipette - to do this, just put the end of the pipette with pre-deflated air into the baby’s mouth. If there is no liquid, you can make several “inhalations” and “exhalations” with a pipette, i.e. create artificial ventilation. But, unfortunately, you cannot fully expect that the baby will pull through, but there is still a chance. Next, you should place the puppies to the breast and be sure to ensure that the babies latch onto it. Immediately after childbirth, colostrum appears (the most beneficial). Next, after 10-15 minutes, you should put the baby in a box previously covered with a soft cloth. After birth, all bedding should be changed to clean rags. Boxes with cubs should be kept near the female, in her sight, so that she does not worry.

Please note

If you are afraid of giving birth, you have no experience or weak nerves, it is better to seek help from a veterinarian. Many veterinary clinics provide home visiting services.

Useful advice

If you have children who are curious to watch the birth of puppies, it is better not to let them near the birth, firstly, this can traumatize the child’s psyche, and secondly, it will cause unnecessary anxiety in the dog.

Sources:

  • genera of toy terriers

The birth of a dog's puppies is a joyful event that owners need to approach responsibly. Often, uninformed people believe that pets do not need any help and are able to cope with childbirth on their own. However, this opinion is wrong. Childbirth is very stressful for a dog and can be fraught with complications. It is very important that the owner is present with the pet at this moment, is able to provide her with the necessary assistance and is able to call a veterinarian at home in an emergency.

You will need

  • - sharp scissors with blunt tips for cutting the umbilical cord;
  • - medical alcohol for disinfecting scissors;
  • - iodine or brilliant green;
  • - potassium permanganate;
  • - bandage;
  • - threads for ligating the umbilical cord;
  • - sterile cotton wool and gauze;
  • - several ordinary syringes;
  • - several insulin syringes;
  • - sterile medical gloves;
  • - hydrogen peroxide;
  • - Vaseline oil or Levomekol;
  • - sterile diapers or towels for drying newborn puppies;
  • - box for puppies;
  • - box for giving birth to a dog;
  • - a small mattress or warm blanket;
  • - polyethylene film;
  • - clean pillowcase;
  • - heating pad;
  • - silk surgical thread, cut into pieces of 10-15 cm.

Instructions

At the preparatory stage for childbirth, it is necessary to ensure that there is a place. It needs to be arranged approximately a week and a half before the expected date. Usually, before giving birth, the dog independently chooses a comfortable place. However, she needs the close attention of the owner during the entire process, so she should not be allowed to hide under the bed or settle in another secluded place.

You can place your dog on a mattress by placing it on the floor and covering it with plastic wrap and sterile absorbent diapers. But the bed is not suitable for this, because if the owner is distracted for a second, a pet or a newly born puppy may fall from it, which is fraught with sad consequences.

It is better to use a box for giving birth to a dog. The latter should be protected from drafts and spacious enough. There must be free access to the place so that you can provide timely assistance to your pet.

Waiting for a new addition to the family is a troublesome and exciting matter; maternity hospitals and professionally trained doctors are “invented” for people, but dogs only have their owners. But the feeling of “the closer, the scarier” is identical for both cases, especially if your pet becomes a mother for the first time. “Obstetricians” without experience need to prepare in advance, from the moment of mating until the first signs of labor appear in dogs, two months of waiting pass, but more on that below.

Depending on the breed and the speed of physical maturation, females begin at 7–12 months. Breeding rules differ slightly in different countries, regions and even clubs, but the “law” about mating in 3rd heat has not lost its relevance and validity for decades. Based on the cycle, depending on the size of the female, she is untied no earlier than 1.5–2.5 years.

Males show sexual activity much earlier; sometimes, a 2-3 month old puppy tries to “jump” on his chosen one, not quite realizing what exactly he is doing. However, males mature mentally and physically later than females, this applies to all mammals, including humans. The normal age for the first mating of a male is considered to be 2 years, for dogs of small breeds - 1.5.

Ignoring the above “law” brings problems to everyone. The female may become infertile or lose health. The male will sacrifice mental stability and length of sexual life. Owners run the risk of getting weak or inferior offspring, which will be rejected from breeding.

Stages of pregnancy

What you need to know before your dog goes into labor

To novice “dog breeders” – absolutely all dogs have a genetic memory of behavior during childbirth. If there are no complications, the dog will give birth completely on its own. Pets that are “problematic” in terms of breeding require mandatory “accompaniment” during childbirth.

Childbirth in a dog requires a responsible approach to its preparation, especially if the owner of the animal decided to take part himself and help the newborn be born. The efforts of the pet owner should be aimed at maintaining the health of the female and obtaining viable offspring. Some dog owners believe that there is no need to interfere with the natural birth process. But it is worth remembering that childbirth is stressful for the bitch and she needs moral support. In addition, different breeds of animals have anatomical and physiological characteristics, fixed by selection, which can complicate childbirth.

Before giving birth, you should consult with a professional to see if there is any pathology and whether the birth will go well. You need to take the veterinarian's contact information in case something goes wrong.

1.5 weeks before giving birth, you need to set up a “delivery room” for the dog. It is necessary to carefully monitor the behavior of the animal so as not to miss the time of preparation for the upcoming birth. It is best to choose the “birth nest” according to the size of the dog, so that it is comfortable for her to rest against the walls during contractions.

Along the perimeter of the box on the inside, it is necessary to strengthen the bar at a height corresponding to the lying bitch in order to prevent injury to the puppies crawling along the bottom of the box. The bottom should be lined with soft natural fabric of a light color so that stains are visible and it is possible to change a soiled diaper in time. It is better to place a thick mattress under the diaper.

The outer wall of the box should be lower, but a threshold is needed to prevent the puppies from leaving it. Additionally, prepare a separate box for placing newborn puppies. At the bottom you need to put a warm heating pad covered with a diaper.

In addition, the dog should be accustomed to the box in advance so that at a crucial moment it does not go to give birth in a secluded place, which may be inconvenient for observing the owner’s birth. Immediately before childbirth, place the necessary instruments and medications within reach. The tools should be like this:

  • thermometer to monitor the dog's temperature;
  • a tray with sterile instruments - sharp scissors, a medical clamp, syringes;
  • sterile dressing material - cotton wool, gauze pads, bandages, surgical threads.

And medications:

  • medical alcohol;
  • hydrogen peroxide;
  • several ampoules with 5% glucose solution;
  • ampoules of the drug "Traumel" for pain relief, stopping bleeding and relieving inflammation;
  • ointment 10% "Syntomycin".

Other medications may also be needed, a list of which should be compiled by your veterinarian. The dog also needs to be prepared for childbirth:

  • Wash the dog’s genitals and belly with warm water and pat dry with a towel;
  • if the hair on the belly is long, then it should be cut in the area of ​​the loop and “panties”;
  • if the hair on the face is long, it is also trimmed so that it does not interfere with the dog biting the umbilical cord.

You should be aware of the signs that indicate an approaching birth, so as not to miss the moment the first puppy appears.

Signs of approaching labor

A couple of days before the onset of labor, the dog becomes nervous, rushes about, and shows signs of anxiety, as increasing intra-abdominal pressure and still weak contractions cause pain to the dog. A sticky mucous fluid - a plug - is released from the birth canal. The dog is worried and licks the genital area. Rapid, shallow breathing and increased heart rate become noticeable.

A sign by which the owner can find out that there are several hours left before the birth is a decrease in the animal’s body temperature. If you put your hand on the dog's stomach, you will notice that the puppies have stopped moving, which means that contractions will begin soon. If after these signs there are no contractions for more than a day, then you should seek help from a veterinary clinic.

During childbirth, some dogs push while standing, but most take a characteristic position - they lie on their side, with outstretched paws and their backs resting against the walls of the box. A few hours before birth, amniotic fluid leaves, which “disinfects” the newborn’s exit route.

The amniotic fluid, which fills the outer or “water” bladder, serves to waterproof the puppy. The outer bubble ruptures on its own, in some cases the dog chews it through. You should not try to break through the bubble, so as not to damage the inner membranes. After the amniotic sac has opened, prolactin is released into the blood, stimulating contraction of the walls of the uterus and abdominal muscles.

Stages of the birth process

During a contraction, the internal bubble is “pushed” out. Sometimes the placenta, which is attached to the inner wall of the uterus and connected by the umbilical cord to the puppy, is separated while still inside the birth canal and comes out along with the bladder in which it is located. The most difficult moment is the exit of the shoulders and withers - the widest part of the body, beyond the pelvic ring. After the appearance of each next puppy, there is a pause in the contractions and only with the next contraction does the afterbirth come out.

Between two newborns, the muscles of the uterine wall contract, damaged blood vessels “collapse,” which prevents bleeding. At the same time, the os of the uterus continues to remain open, and during the next contraction the placenta comes out through it. If its exit is delayed, then the subsequent puppy, when born, pushes the placenta out.

The puppy is usually born in a bubble, which the dog bursts itself. Then he bites the umbilical cord. This is a natural instinct; you should let the dog do everything on its own. The exception is dog breeds with a short muzzle. Their jaws are poorly developed, and it is difficult for them to independently free the puppy from the bubble surrounding it. Dogs with disproportionate torsos may have difficulty reaching the umbilical cord until all puppies are born, so they will need assistance during labor.

Dogs who are whelping for the first time may bite the umbilical cord incorrectly by pulling on it after they have already bitten. You should not allow the female to do this - this can lead to a hernia.

The owner sometimes thinks that the dog is being rough with the newborn puppy - turning it over, pushing it with its nose, licking it. This is normal behavior that stimulates all the functions of the newborn - breathing, blood circulation, feces. A healthy puppy immediately looks for a nipple; some, still connected by the umbilical cord, fall to the rear nipples. In this case, uterine contractions are stimulated and labor is accelerated.

A reflex action of a dog, which is inherent in all predatory animals, is eating the placenta. The question being discussed is whether the dog should be allowed to do this. The placenta contains many nutrients and hormones that promote lactation and accelerate labor. Experienced dog breeders believe that a bitch should be allowed to eat no more than three afterbirths. A larger amount will lead to colic and diarrhea. This may be why veterinarians are against bitches eating the placenta. They believe that, unlike wild animals, a domestic dog has fairly complete nutrition and does not have an afterbirth.

Assistance in childbirth

The owner must know how to deliver a dog in order, for example, to monitor the process of releasing newborn babies from the amniotic sac. You should help the dog do this, and if it refuses, then free the puppy yourself, wipe it with a warm natural cloth and then just start cutting the umbilical cord. An experienced dog breeder will never allow a puppy to crawl with the umbilical cord, otherwise, when pulling, an injury to the umbilical ring may occur.

Even if the baby's place comes out after the baby, the umbilical cord may be too short. Then cutting the umbilical cord is a necessity, since the dog can injure the newborn by cutting the umbilical cord.

It is better to break the umbilical cord - there is a place on it where it breaks easily, while the vessels collapse and prevent bleeding, so as not to weaken the puppy. To do this, the owner presses the umbilical cord 2-3 cm below the loop using a surgical clamp. This will prevent the placenta from returning back inside the body during the next contraction. During the subsequent contraction, you need to carefully pull the tip of the umbilical cord and pull the baby's place out.

It is necessary to intercept the umbilical cord in two places - 2-3 cm from the puppy’s tummy, “distilling” the blood from the umbilical cord to the newborn’s body, and 5-6 cm further. By pulling to the sides, the umbilical cord is broken, and if there is no bleeding, then there is no need to tie the umbilical cord and treat it with peroxide. If the umbilical cord is too strong and had to be cut with sterile scissors, bleeding is noted and the umbilical cord is tied with alcohol-treated silk thread.

If the puppy is not breathing because blood or mucus has entered the respiratory tract, then it is necessary to urgently release them and allow the dog to lick the puppy, stimulating breathing. Long labor can weaken the dog so much that it refuses to lick the puppies, then the owner needs to do this with the help of a heated towel.

In addition, the owner must carefully monitor the number of afterbirths. There should be as many of them as puppies were born. Sometimes, when the last of a litter of puppies is born, the placenta may remain inside the uterus, which will cause inflammation and serious condition in the dog. If the placenta cannot be removed, it is necessary to urgently contact a veterinarian so that he can administer a medicine that stimulates the expulsion of the placenta.

Before giving birth, it is recommended to undergo x-rays to find out the exact number of puppies and subsequently monitor their output. Sometimes the last, weakest puppy cannot come out, and the dog is too weak during childbirth. Then there is a possibility that the puppy will die and blood poisoning will begin.

Puppies can be separated for the duration of the birth, but it is better to leave them with the dog, as this will be beneficial for both the bitch and the puppies. Attentive attitude towards the dog and knowledge of the birth process will ensure the health of the dog and the offspring.

The dog's birth process usually goes well. The animal is able to cope with its biological mission without outside help. Nevertheless, the owners anxiously await this event, worrying that their pet will not be able to give birth or will bleed. It is better to prepare for a possible force majeure. At a minimum, you need to know the signs of the onset of the process and the symptoms of its pathological course.

Veterinarians recommend preparing for the upcoming birth of an animal in advance, even before mating. It is necessary to examine the pet to find out whether she can bear offspring normally.

Prenatal period

At this time, it is important to provide the expectant mother with good living conditions, care, medical control, diet and exercise. From the 55th day of pregnancy, the average duration of which is 58-68 days, you need to be “fully prepared”: puppies can appear at any time.

Start preparing a comfortable place for childbirth. Usually this is a secluded corner, protected from drafts, where the bitch will feel calm, comfortable and safe. Organize the future “delivery room” in advance - a spacious box covered with an old blanket, clean sheet or diaper. Don't even consider a place in the walk-through room. A crowd of people will make the dog nervous, but the animal needs the presence of its beloved owner.

Potential problems

There are breeds that are considered problematic in terms of childbirth. If your pet is one of these, it is better to agree in advance with a veterinarian to accompany the process. It will also be needed in the following cases.

  • Dysplasia. The hip joint is underdeveloped, the musculoskeletal system is impaired.
  • Heart diseases. Not necessarily from the woman in labor herself. It’s better to play it safe, even if there have been similar problems in your family. The first sign of cardiac failure is shortness of breath.
  • Large litter. Six or more puppies are expected. The number of pups can be determined using ultrasound already 40-45 days after mating.
  • Small breeds. Miniature individuals give birth more difficult, especially if this is the first litter.
  • C-section. If previous pregnancies ended with surgery.

In addition, it is better to trust specialists if you cannot stand the sight of blood, are squeamish, or do not understand the mechanism of childbirth.

Symptoms of the onset of labor

As the target date approaches, monitor your pet more closely.
The surest sign of imminent labor is a change in rectal temperature. It begins to fluctuate within seven days, and within 36-12 hours it decreases by 0.5-2°C. In mothers of decorative breeds, the thermometer drops to 36-36.5°C, in large varieties - to 37°C. The temperature is measured twice a day: in the morning (before the animal is active) and before bedtime (at rest).

Other physiological and behavioral manifestations are also precursors.

  • In 10-14 days. The abdomen noticeably enlarges and the hair around the mammary glands begins to fall out. The dog begins to “nest”, look for a secluded place (look into closets, hide behind an armchair or sofa). Follows the owner's heels or, on the contrary, seeks solitude and avoids contact with family members. Some people produce milk. At rest, rhythmic contractions of the uterus (training) are possible.
  • In two or three days. Sticky and white mucus comes out of the genitals - the plug separates (after sleep or at the time of urination). The uterus drops and the abdomen sags.
  • In a day or two. Colostrum flows from the nipples (when pressed). The stomach and area near the nipples become bald. The loop softens and enlarges. The pet is anxious, restlessly “digging” the floor and scratching the walls. Constantly licks the genitals, rubs against the owner’s legs, clings to the hands. May whine when demanding attention.
  • Less than a day. Pulse, breathing, and urination begin to increase. The loop becomes soft, loose, saggy. The animal refuses food and becomes thirsty. Puppies become “immobile” after active movement.
  • In 30-120 minutes. The bitch is extremely excited. Eyes turn red, pupils dilate. The animal arches its back, squats, urinates, and looks at its tail. When experiencing pain, he freezes, looking at one point. Limbs tremble, there may be trembling throughout the body. The “stone belly effect” appears (the abdominal cavity is in maximum tone). A “wooden gait” is observed when the dog overextends its hind legs. The female lies and constantly tosses and turns.

In the last hours before the “H” moment, the dog will feel the need for frequent walks, which is associated with the need to completely empty itself (intestines, bladder). This is necessary for the normal course of the birth process, so the owner must take the animal outside several times during early contractions. You shouldn’t do this later, otherwise everything may start in the yard, in the entrance or in the elevator, that is, in unsanitary conditions.

Required skills and knowledge of the owner

Labor is a physiological act consisting of several stages. A successful outcome depends on:

  • general well-being of the pet;
  • anatomy of the birth canal;
  • uterine muscle tone;
  • number and size of fruits;
  • state of the cardiovascular system;
  • individual psycho-emotional characteristics.

Miniature breeds have a litter of one to five puppies, while large breeds have up to 15 or even more. The number of offspring is also affected by age: fewer children are born to young and older females. With a low-fertility pregnancy, weak labor is observed, called “single puppy syndrome.” With multiple births, everything goes easier.

Stages

The birth process consists of three stages.

  1. Preparatory, opening of the birth canal. Lasts from six to 12 hours.
    (Up to 36 hours in case of first pregnancy). During this period, the cervix opens and the vaginal muscles relax. The uterus begins to contract. The dog feels discomfort, constantly licks itself, breathes frequently, and seeks attention and affection. Possible shortness of breath, increased excitability, vomiting or asymptomatic course. Towards the end of the stage, the uterus contracts more often and longer, but the abdominal muscles do not contract (contractions without pushing). The membranes rupture and mucus comes out.
  2. Labor pains, expulsion of the fetus. The average duration of the stage is from three to 12 hours. Maximum - 24 hours. Amniotic fluid is released, rectal temperature normalizes (may be slightly higher). The muscles of the uterus and abdomen actively contract (pushing and contractions). The fetus moves along the birth canal. The woman in labor gnaws the amniotic sac, then the umbilical cord. Puppies appear at intervals of 15-20 minutes to two hours.
  3. Birth of the placenta. The afterbirth appears 10-15 minutes after the puppy. It can be expelled after one fruit or after every two or three. The female eats the placenta. You should not eat more than two to avoid diarrhea and vomiting.

There is no need to feed the dog during the process. You can maintain the strength of a woman in labor during a long labor course with sweet tea, milk with honey, or weak broth. Some people give a solution of cinnamon (a pinch in a glass of water).

Childbirth is over if:

  • the woman in labor begins to calm down and falls asleep;
  • the number of afterbirths corresponds to the number of puppies;
  • moderate red-cherry discharge is observed (green-black is considered a pathology).

Afterwards, the mother and puppies should be moved to a specially prepared place on the floor. If the room temperature is below 23-25°C, place a heating pad under the diaper. A bitch and her offspring cannot be placed on high chairs or on a sofa. It is important to control the even distribution of puppies across the nipples: the weakest pups are applied to the milkiest ones. And the nursing mother herself must be forced to turn over on different sides to avoid stagnation of milk.

Assistance in case of force majeure

Prepare in advance a first aid kit that may be needed during the birth of your pet. In addition to hand sanitizer, it includes:

  • sterile scissors and threads- for cutting and tying the umbilical cord;
  • ironed clean diapers- for drying puppies or rubbing them to stimulate breathing;
  • nasal aspirator- or a regular syringe to remove mucus from the nose of newborns.

Usually the dog gnaws the umbilical cord itself; if not, then cut it with scissors at a distance of 3-4 cm from the baby’s belly. Also keep the following medications on hand.

  • "Gamavit." This is an immunostimulating medicine that is prescribed to animals in stressful situations. It is also used as part of mandatory products for obstetrics at home. The drug affects the smooth muscles of the uterus, thereby facilitating pregnancy and childbirth. The veterinarian will tell you in what dosages and when to give subcutaneous or intramuscular injections.
  • Calcium preparations. A dangerous complication of childbirth is eclampsia. It is associated with calcium deficiency in the body. Symptoms are nervousness of the whelping female, convulsions, swelling, as well as an indifferent attitude towards the offspring (even to the point of destroying and eating the puppies). As first aid, you need to inject intramuscularly a 10% solution of calcium gluconate and a 25% solution of magnesium sulfate. Discuss their dosage with your doctor in advance. If you don’t know how to give injections, crush calcium gluconate tablets for your dog.

Urgently need a doctor

When veterinary assistance is required, it is unacceptable to call a dog handler instead of a doctor. The option of the all-knowing “dog-lover neighbor” is also excluded. In case of force majeure, it is not the best solution to run to the pharmacy for an ampoule of Oxytocin, which is often administered without taking into account the condition and weight of the woman in labor.

If obvious contractions/efforts do not result in the birth of offspring, professional help is needed. Call the veterinary clinic in the following situations:

  • weak contractions of the abdominal muscles- lasts from four hours;
  • fruitless attempts- constant, strong, lasting from half an hour;
  • there is a suspicion that not all the fruits came out- if more than four hours have passed since the last puppy appeared;
  • green-brown or brown discharge- and the first calf is missing for two to three hours;
  • weak labor- or stopped altogether;
  • copious scarlet discharge- bleeding;
  • not all traces came out- there were dead puppies;
  • The mother in labor has a fever- above 39.5°C.

Postpartum period

It begins after the delivery of the placenta and lasts until the final restoration of the uterus. Normally, lochia (uterine discharge) lasts about three weeks. At first they are brown with a greenish tint and have a neutral odor. Then they gradually lighten and become slimy. The depressed state of a nursing bitch, elevated temperature, copious foul-smelling discharge is a pathology.

As during pregnancy, the dog should receive a balanced diet and special vitamins for lactating bitches. Food - six to seven times a day, but in small portions. Water and milk should be offered every three hours. In the first ten days, give up animal proteins, giving preference to cereals, omelettes, and fresh cottage cheese.

Premature birth

Temperature contrasts during water procedures can cause spasms in the uterus and premature birth in a dog. You should always bathe and wash your pregnant pet with warm water. The main causes of pathology also include:

  • intrauterine infection- can be introduced during estrus or mating;
  • hidden diseases - various diseases of the heart, gastrointestinal tract, kidneys;
  • brucellosis is an infectious disease that provokes spontaneous miscarriage;
  • staphylococcus, herpes- cause mutations, intrauterine death and spontaneous miscarriage;
  • toxoplasmosis - pregnancy fails in the later stages;
  • hormonal imbalances- the body of the expectant mother does not produce the hormones necessary for the development of the offspring (or their level does not meet the norms).

The chances of offspring survival depend on the timing of pregnancy. The woman in labor is urgently cesareaned, and resuscitation measures are carried out to open the lungs of the puppies. But as practice shows, premature litters still die in the first five days in most cases.

Breeds at risk

Various “buts” during the birth process can arise in a guard dog, a breeding champion, or a mongrel. But there are breeds that are considered the most difficult in terms of reproduction.

English bulldogs

The veterinarians' verdict is only a cesarean section. The thing is that vigorous labor causes oxygen starvation due to the small volume of the lungs. During efforts, the heart begins to work with double load, and the lungs cannot cope with their function. That is, the female has to choose one of two things - either give birth or breathe.

Similar problems are typical for Pekingese, Pugs, and Japanese Chins.

Mastiffs

All Molossian giants are at risk. Prolonged labor is their characteristic feature. The reason is in the parameters: the internal organs are too large, which at the same time have the usual (average) physiological reserve. “Abnormality” of the birth process is caused by:

  • myometrium - in Molossians the muscular layer of the uterus is much weaker than in miniature and medium-sized breeds;
  • heart - big but weak;
  • multiple births - giants traditionally bear 10-15 puppies.

Often, after the birth of three to six puppies, the dog experiences uterine atony (complete loss of tone). As a result, pregnancy ends with a caesarean section. Another complication is postpartum atony (incomplete restoration of the uterus), which is fraught with endometritis - inflammation of the internal mucous layer of the organ.

Russian Toy, Yorkie

Toy breeds have several obstetric problems.

  • Body dimensions. In small breeds the ratio of fetal weight to maternal weight is approximately 1:10, while in large breeds it is 1:50. Therefore, the birth of the fetus in “dwarfs” is extremely difficult even through the widest birth canal.
  • Character traits. These breeds have smoothed out tribal instincts. They have a labile psyche, are vulnerable, susceptible to stress, and cannot stand a nervous atmosphere. Therefore, the outcome depends on careful, delicate handling of the miniature woman in labor.

If a female Russian Toy Terrier or Yorkshire Terrier whelps on her own, this can take from three hours to a day or more. The pet must be under constant supervision, including at night. If complications occur, the animal is operated on.

After birth, responsibility for their life, upbringing and further development falls not on the pet, but on the owner. The owner may even have to go on “maternity leave”, because at first it is better not to leave babies and the nursing mother unattended. The main troubles will arise if the dog has a poorly developed sense of motherhood. Then you will have to feed the puppies yourself, massage them to eliminate and teach them other tricks of independent life.



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